There is a trick that few people do or know that will make the bond 1000 times stronger, but you got to use some slow cure epoxy. Always hit the part with heat until its as thin as gasoline try and keep it there for a few seconds without it smoking. If to much epoxy dripped off just add more. You don't need to hit it with heat a second time unless you're baking it in the oven. What this does is it turns the epoxy so thin that it fits into all the micro scratches grains and spaces this makes the bond literally more than twice and strong. I used to make kiteboards and a repair over cured epoxy was worthless without heating it up. You can do a test, put some fiberglass and epoxy over glass and let it cure in room temperature leave a little fiberglass off so you can pull on it later. Then do another one and heat it with a heat gun for a few seconds till it turns super thin then let it cure. After they are both cured you will never be able to pull the heated epoxy off the glass. The unheated one will pop off quiet easy depending on the room temperature it was curing in. This makes such a strong bond Im willing to bet it would be stronger even if the part to repair was not sanded.
Hi Leonard, thanks for your feedback. The repair covered the extent of the damage. That canoe's now been back in the water playing water polo once or twice a week for over a year with no sign of weakness from the repair. The purpose of the video was to demonstrate a simple repair that anyone could easily do, not a masterclass. The repair has proved more than adequate and hopefuly encouraged people to have a go themselves.
Used this process to repair a 1/3 scale glider fuselage that had snapped in two places after a heavy landing. The EasyComposites scales are invaluable for correct mix of the EL2 and release film makes life so much easier when applying the wet carbon. Great vids and a great range of products! Thanks!
ive done a couple of repairs to my kayak now and the patches look pretty good, but im left with small pits from where there were tiny air bubbles left over,will this have a bad effect or is it merely cosmetic. I wouldnt have had the confidence to do it without seeing this video...
If they are deep you can fill them with a light overcoat of resin - sometimes a cocktail stick can be used to dab resin into the hole. But if shallow and they sand out without exposing the fibres then all is good.
To cut out a section of the hull and replace it to completely remove the damage is rediculously over the top for that kind of damage. The repair done is perfectly strong enough, and more importantly and the whole point of the video, is within the means of your average guy. To make a near invisible factory style repair would be both expensive, and likely impractical for people to do at home.
Dry the kyak fully to see if the parts are firm again. If they are still soft, then there has been some structural damage and you would be best patching the repair to replace the strength lost.
Would it be cost effective to make an electric guitar case out of Kevlar, (top and bottom halves joined with that Kevlar tape) showing that beautiful weave? Probably not, as a new guitar case, pop out plastic shell case sells for around £50 to £100? Thanks great video!
i remember using this 2 part epoxy paste that smelled like corn chips and it took 32 hours to cure, and was hand workable. I had a friend come to me with his ct90 Honda, that had the chain bunch up and break the casing away leaving a open gap letting all the oil pore out, and I fixed that with the 32 hour resin and fiber glass and Kevlar sandwiched the Kevlar was the main structure the glass was for fill, as I removed any lose aluminium, lucky the bolt holes where on both side of the break so I did not need to drill bolt holes, it hardened like clay, slowly getting stiffer, I was able to sand it for the aluminium cover to fit and not lose oil, and that bike worked for years, I sold it and never heard if it still works but it was treated like a dirt bike so you never know wish I took picture.
I am currently making a set of bowls of 12 cm diameter by layering up cuttings of 2-2 twill on top a metal bowl turned upside down (this is primarly for practice, but I'll try high temp resin instead of EL-2 in case I want to use it as a piece of dish). At first I PVA-coated the metal bowl and in one go layered up the fabric wet. While cutting and layering, some of the 16 patches (orange peel shaped) frayed and left loose strands of fibre across the wet surface. By the end of the pot life the patches were placed more or less as planned, and I wrapped it all in shrink tape, which was a bit messy on the resin but ok. Put that into the the oven at 120 C. The tape shrinked as desired, but the resin partially hardened as foam underneath the tape. A few hours later I had to pry out and destroy the metal positive to get a release. The next time I'll want to make it better. First, I am thinking of putting a layer peel ply and/or release film underneath the shrink tape. Second, I'll add to the metal positive a polished epoxy surface to apply the PVA onto. I can also think of stretching a layer of release film over the outside of the metal bowl alternatively, if I can do that with no wrinkles. Do you have any further suggestions for me?
Wow, there's a lot to unpack there. I'm not sure where to begin! Firstly, I wouldn't recommend PVA as a release agent for high temperature use, you would be better with Easy-Lease chemical release agent. As for the shrink tape method, I think this is always going to be pretty messy. Given the shape you're trying to make I would suggest getting two metal bowls and using Easy-Lease on the inside of one and the outside of the other. You could then use them as matched tool. If you clamp the two bowls together whilst the resin cured then this could create a decent result and have a smooth finish inside and out.
I have no idea what feathering is. However I have found this video useful. My slalom kayak is made from the same material as the hull in this video. The epoxy layer on some parts of the hull have worn away making it slightly (only very slightly) soft in parts. Could I just apply another epoxy layer or two, or would I need to patch it?
This is the only example I've been able to find so far for using release film in hand layup without a vacuum bag. Is there anything special about this film? Could you use regular shrink wrap? In any case, it seems like a good way to get a nice finish on something too large to vacuum bag.
You’ll almost certainly find that shrink wrap will stick to the resin, which is clearly not a good thing. This release film is made from FEP which is totally non-stick to all of the major resin groups. It’s also strong and stretchy, making it ideal for this application. You can also use ETFE release film, that works great too. Both of these films are specialist to the composites industry.
Love the video. It realy encourages everyone to start. The way the front is repaired is awesome and over average. The sides made my OCD going mental when the pattern of the fiber did not match . Haha lol.
So I bought an Impex Currituck Carbon/kevlar and I noticed (webbing cracks) and a chip in the hull (outside) and a break in the fiber pattern inside. In the skeg box area the finish is breaking away as well. Should this be done by pro, how much would it cost?
I'm afraid I can't comment on how much it would cost to have this sort of repair work done, we just sell the materials and provide the advice. Hopefully you can track somewhere down that can give you a quote though.
Its not a 3M product so we don't have any such reference but its commonly used in PrePreg production so any company offering composite PrePregs is likely to have this kind of film; it's usually an ETFE or FEP plastic-type.
Generally you would aim to repair using the same material the kayak was made with. In many cases these kind of kayaks are a Carbon/Kevlar hybrid cloth and hence that is what is used here.
Hi Franz, well, you're in luck. If you check the description you'll find a link to the project page on our website which does include a full list of materials used in the project, you can even add them to your basket from that page. Here's the link: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/composites-tutorials/kayak-repair-tutorial
Is the epoxy finish uv-resistant (i.e., will it withstand outdoor storage)? I know most epoxies are very susceptible to uv damage, and was wondering if this product incorporates inhibitors?
Hi Jack, the resin we use in this video is our Rapid Repair Resin; this resin specifically focuses on mechanical performance and so is not specifically designed to offer enhanced UV stability however it is part of a newer generation of epoxies which do hold up to UV rays much better than older systems and so for repair use, as used in this video, it would be perfectly fine and still look good and work well for years to come. We do have epoxies which are specifically intended for cosmetic applications where any slight yellowing or discolouration would be a problem, such as our XCR (Xtreme Coating Resin) which could be used as an alternative to the Rapid Repair Resin (used in this video) if you're looking for the very best in UV stability.
Yo guys, we have a similar boat in our shed that is sort of bent on the line of the joint between the hulls..., we were wondering if you have any experience on recovering the shape? Can we possibly heat it up and soften it and try to remold it? We would really appreciate thoughts. Kind regards, Alejandro
The resins used are generally thermoset resins if it is a composite boat, so heating it up is not generally going to work. You could jig the boat into the right shape then add bracing and more reinforcement to hold it in shape.
Excellent video and workmanship but the top of the boat is called the deck. You kept referring to it as the hull which is the bottom of the boat lower than the seam. I hate to be so picky!
For the life of me, I can't get this smooth, bubble free, finish with the release film. There are always way too many tiny air bubbles, and some are just impossible to move to the edge without accidently & permanently wrinkling the release film (which leaves a line in the finish). I've tried 4 repairs using these steps and have not been able to get the perfect finish yet. Can you guys give any more detailed steps or tips for this part of the process?
If you are still struggling with bubbles, very gentle waft a heat gun over the top of the bubble. The resin should thin slightly then the bubble will come to the surface and pop. Once most the big bubbles are gone, then apply the release film working from one side carefully to avoid air inclusion underneath. Even if you do get the odd wrinkle, you can sand it back flat, if necessary recoat, then polish back up to a gloss.
Well, the correct polishing process would depend on what the actual surface of your kayak is; whether it’s gelcoat or paint, whether it’s epoxy, or polyester and - quite importantly - how thick the coating is. All that said, a relatively fine abrasive paper (400+) and then a polishing compound such as NW1 would be a good starting point in many cases.
I am planning a major project using your prepreg products, I was first studying the carbon fiber prepreg but since this cures in room temperature I wonder if it would not be feasible to make my entire project in Kevlar instead. Multi-layering Kevlar, without the need of using an oven must be the simplest way. I want to make a complete dakar rally fairing plus fuel tank for my motorcycle. Would you recommend to do it purely in Kevlar? I will also make a bash plate.
There are plenty of room temperature curing resins to choose from so no need to go down the pre-preg route unless you specifically want to. You can use kevlar in that way to provide the impact resistance.
Does the same technique apply to squishy patches. I have a large patch on the bottom of my canoe polo boat that has lost its structure but it’s not cracked or visibly damaged. Would this benefit from a patch?
Yes as it is where the resin at least has failed. If accessible, you could repair on the inside for neatness. You may need to sand and reseal the surface with resin if it is compromised and leaks.
The film is our un-perforated release film which you can find here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/vacuum-equipment-and-supplies/vacuum-bagging-consumables/release-film-unperforated.html
ive made many surfboards over the years in other countrys but never in UK and the cost of materials is very high. ive never used cling film in the proceedure but seen it used in working with carbon fibre can anyone tell me if they've seen it used in the case of ordinary fibre glass and polyester resins and on what products, thanks? I am now making my very first combat knife sheath by using a blowgun on polyethelene plastic sheet 3mm thick. the finish is amazing.I would love to make a guitar case out of this material and also out of this carbon fibre course weave material used on your canoe, but then it all depends on the price of materials in relation economically to the product. I made a rifle case once by joining two plastic kids school cases and cutting joining and reinforcing them and finished them off with angle aluminium metal beading on edge using rivets screws and fibre glass ribbon tape. glass fibre is a beautiful thing. have any of you ever read captain cooks amazingly descriptive paragraphs in the chapter of his first sighting of surfing in the Polynesian islands or probably Tahiti?. Well read it , it will blow your minds. And so that's where they got the name polyester resin. it was name after Poly the Parrot that belonged to Captain Silver in the Polynesians. He kept talkin 'n'singin........ "did u remember to put the harder in stupid"'!!!
The film we use in the video is not cling film but a special release film which does not stick to resins. We would not recommend using cling film as only some clingfilms are non-stick. You could make cases and even a guitar from carbon fibre if you wished. It is as you say, about budget to an extent.
You could use a similar technique. I assume we are talking about a custom bit of carbon furniture here?? If they are round legs then it would be perfect to use our Fishing Pole Repair Kit, the technique for which can be found in this video: How to Repair a Broken Carbon Fibre (Fiber) Fishing Pole or Rod
Now I know this is a very old thread but hopefully you may see this.. My release film keeps crinkling a lot! I've tried using lighter & heavier release film, tight stretch through to almost no stretch. It's pretty warm here so am only using 1 - 1.5 ml per hundy of MEKP to 100ml resin. Any help appreciated
Is your release film compatible with Styrene? In this video, we're using epoxy resin but as you mention MEKP, I assume you're working with Poly or Vinylester resin - the styrene emitted whilst these cure can attack, soften or even dissolve certain plastics so it would be worth checking compatibility of the film you're using.
Ahh that’ll be why then, yes I’m using polyester on my old race boat, I’ll see if there’s any release film more compatible. Thank you for responding, your channel is often my go to. Kind Regards Chris
If you watch the video through our EasyComposites website in the Learning Centre, then there is a "shopping list" of items used next to the video. The quantity will depend on the specific repairs you need to make.
The release film we use is ETFE which is an excellent combination of release properties (practically nothing sticks to it) with strength and stretch meaning it works really well for this type of repair. The problem with clingfilm is that they're not all made from the same material - some will release from epoxy resin and others will stick to it so it would be important to do a test run first. The second issue is that they're much more stretchy and less strong making it harder to get quick as good a finish, however, certainly experiment and you might find you can get results you're happy with.
@@mountdoomee It's not usually necessary for this particular application but for repairs which are likely to spend more time outdoor then a clearcoat could be sprayed over the top.
Not normally convenient for small patch repairs but for larger repairs (usually on full size boats, rather than canoes or kayaks) a vacuum bag process is sometimes used.
![How to Make a Forged Carbon Fiber Engine Cover [DIY]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tHLCqQFDZjU/mqdefault.jpg)
Mate, your hair! Just went back through the older videos and saw what you had years ago. Rockstar.
There is a trick that few people do or know that will make the bond 1000 times stronger, but you got to use some slow cure epoxy.
Always hit the part with heat until its as thin as gasoline try and keep it there for a few seconds without it smoking. If to much epoxy dripped off just add more. You don't need to hit it with heat a second time unless you're baking it in the oven.
What this does is it turns the epoxy so thin that it fits into all the micro scratches grains and spaces this makes the bond literally more than twice and strong.
I used to make kiteboards and a repair over cured epoxy was worthless without heating it up.
You can do a test, put some fiberglass and epoxy over glass and let it cure in room temperature leave a little fiberglass off so you can pull on it later.
Then do another one and heat it with a heat gun for a few seconds till it turns super thin then let it cure.
After they are both cured you will never be able to pull the heated epoxy off the glass.
The unheated one will pop off quiet easy depending on the room temperature it was curing in.
This makes such a strong bond Im willing to bet it would be stronger even if the part to repair was not sanded.
The long hair, you look like people in the 80s. Video was 8yrs ago, thank you for your hard work.
Hi Leonard, thanks for your feedback. The repair covered the extent of the damage. That canoe's now been back in the water playing water polo once or twice a week for over a year with no sign of weakness from the repair. The purpose of the video was to demonstrate a simple repair that anyone could easily do, not a masterclass. The repair has proved more than adequate and hopefuly encouraged people to have a go themselves.
Sure has, im going to try a fee repairs for sure.
Used this process to repair a 1/3 scale glider fuselage that had snapped in two places after a heavy landing. The EasyComposites scales are invaluable for correct mix of the EL2 and release film makes life so much easier when applying the wet carbon. Great vids and a great range of products! Thanks!
Thanks very much. Glad to hear the video helped, the products worked and the repair went well. Thanks for the feedback.
Clear informative and relevant. Thank you.
keep these videos coming guys!
Excellent explanatory. Thanks.
ive done a couple of repairs to my kayak now and the patches look pretty good, but im left with small pits from where there were tiny air bubbles left over,will this have a bad effect or is it merely cosmetic. I wouldnt have had the confidence to do it without seeing this video...
If they are deep you can fill them with a light overcoat of resin - sometimes a cocktail stick can be used to dab resin into the hole. But if shallow and they sand out without exposing the fibres then all is good.
To cut out a section of the hull and replace it to completely remove the damage is rediculously over the top for that kind of damage. The repair done is perfectly strong enough, and more importantly and the whole point of the video, is within the means of your average guy. To make a near invisible factory style repair would be both expensive, and likely impractical for people to do at home.
Dry the kyak fully to see if the parts are firm again. If they are still soft, then there has been some structural damage and you would be best patching the repair to replace the strength lost.
Would it be cost effective to make an electric guitar case out of Kevlar, (top and bottom halves joined with that Kevlar tape) showing that beautiful weave? Probably not, as a new guitar case, pop out plastic shell case sells for around £50 to £100? Thanks great video!
We do have plans for further videos in the future.
i remember using this 2 part epoxy paste that smelled like corn chips and it took 32 hours to cure, and was hand workable. I had a friend come to me with his ct90 Honda, that had the chain bunch up and break the casing away leaving a open gap letting all the oil pore out, and I fixed that with the 32 hour resin and fiber glass and Kevlar sandwiched the Kevlar was the main structure the glass was for fill, as I removed any lose aluminium, lucky the bolt holes where on both side of the break so I did not need to drill bolt holes, it hardened like clay, slowly getting stiffer, I was able to sand it for the aluminium cover to fit and not lose oil, and that bike worked for years, I sold it and never heard if it still works but it was treated like a dirt bike so you never know wish I took picture.
I am currently making a set of bowls of 12 cm diameter by layering up cuttings of 2-2 twill on top a metal bowl turned upside down (this is primarly for practice, but I'll try high temp resin instead of EL-2 in case I want to use it as a piece of dish). At first I PVA-coated the metal bowl and in one go layered up the fabric wet. While cutting and layering, some of the 16 patches (orange peel shaped) frayed and left loose strands of fibre across the wet surface. By the end of the pot life the patches were placed more or less as planned, and I wrapped it all in shrink tape, which was a bit messy on the resin but ok. Put that into the the oven at 120 C. The tape shrinked as desired, but the resin partially hardened as foam underneath the tape. A few hours later I had to pry out and destroy the metal positive to get a release. The next time I'll want to make it better. First, I am thinking of putting a layer peel ply and/or release film underneath the shrink tape. Second, I'll add to the metal positive a polished epoxy surface to apply the PVA onto. I can also think of stretching a layer of release film over the outside of the metal bowl alternatively, if I can do that with no wrinkles. Do you have any further suggestions for me?
Wow, there's a lot to unpack there. I'm not sure where to begin! Firstly, I wouldn't recommend PVA as a release agent for high temperature use, you would be better with Easy-Lease chemical release agent. As for the shrink tape method, I think this is always going to be pretty messy. Given the shape you're trying to make I would suggest getting two metal bowls and using Easy-Lease on the inside of one and the outside of the other. You could then use them as matched tool. If you clamp the two bowls together whilst the resin cured then this could create a decent result and have a smooth finish inside and out.
@@easycompositestv Thank you very much, that's a very workable idea to just go with two bowls.
thank you that was very thorough and informative
Thank you for watching!
Damn, take a look at that hair! Briliant! :D
he could do loréal ads.
This is gold. Thank you.
very helpful info and demonstration, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed!
i ordered some carbon kevlar and resin from you guys the other day, guess what im doing this weekend.hehe
Casting is a topic we will certainly cover in the future.
I have no idea what feathering is. However I have found this video useful. My slalom kayak is made from the same material as the hull in this video. The epoxy layer on some parts of the hull have worn away making it slightly (only very slightly) soft in parts. Could I just apply another epoxy layer or two, or would I need to patch it?
This is the only example I've been able to find so far for using release film in hand layup without a vacuum bag. Is there anything special about this film? Could you use regular shrink wrap? In any case, it seems like a good way to get a nice finish on something too large to vacuum bag.
You’ll almost certainly find that shrink wrap will stick to the resin, which is clearly not a good thing. This release film is made from FEP which is totally non-stick to all of the major resin groups. It’s also strong and stretchy, making it ideal for this application. You can also use ETFE release film, that works great too. Both of these films are specialist to the composites industry.
I’m so glad I found your video before doing repairs on my old fiberglass kayak. You’re clear, organized, and articulate. Thank you!
DAAAAAMNNN HAIR BE FAB!
Love the video. It realy encourages everyone to start. The way the front is repaired is awesome and over average. The sides made my OCD going mental when the pattern of the fiber did not match . Haha lol.
You could spend time aligning the fabric if you wish but on a "seasoned" or battered Kayak then its probably not so important.
Hey easy comp guys, any chance of a tut on your mould making and resign casting starter kits please?
So I bought an Impex Currituck Carbon/kevlar and I noticed (webbing cracks) and a chip in the hull (outside) and a break in the fiber pattern inside. In the skeg box area the finish is breaking away as well. Should this be done by pro, how much would it cost?
I'm afraid I can't comment on how much it would cost to have this sort of repair work done, we just sell the materials and provide the advice. Hopefully you can track somewhere down that can give you a quote though.
Your hair is brilliant, almost as brilliant as Milo Yiannopoulos' hair.
You couldn’t find a worse comparison
I'm having trouble finding the release film in the USA. Can you give a bit more info, like what 3M number it is? Thanks!
Its not a 3M product so we don't have any such reference but its commonly used in PrePreg production so any company offering composite PrePregs is likely to have this kind of film; it's usually an ETFE or FEP plastic-type.
great video! from your point of view what product is better for this kind of application carbon fiber or Kevlar/Carbon?
Generally you would aim to repair using the same material the kayak was made with. In many cases these kind of kayaks are a Carbon/Kevlar hybrid cloth and hence that is what is used here.
A list of all used materials on your website would be perfect. to be able to buy them all at once.
Hi Franz, well, you're in luck. If you check the description you'll find a link to the project page on our website which does include a full list of materials used in the project, you can even add them to your basket from that page. Here's the link: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/composites-tutorials/kayak-repair-tutorial
If you just have damaged resin could you just apply the resin over the damaged areas to recreate a smooth finish? Easy composites Ltd
Yes, as you will see in the later part of the video we do just that and use the release film to make a smooth finish.
Is the epoxy finish uv-resistant (i.e., will it withstand outdoor storage)? I know most epoxies are very susceptible to uv damage, and was wondering if this product incorporates inhibitors?
Hi Jack, the resin we use in this video is our Rapid Repair Resin; this resin specifically focuses on mechanical performance and so is not specifically designed to offer enhanced UV stability however it is part of a newer generation of epoxies which do hold up to UV rays much better than older systems and so for repair use, as used in this video, it would be perfectly fine and still look good and work well for years to come. We do have epoxies which are specifically intended for cosmetic applications where any slight yellowing or discolouration would be a problem, such as our XCR (Xtreme Coating Resin) which could be used as an alternative to the Rapid Repair Resin (used in this video) if you're looking for the very best in UV stability.
Yo guys, we have a similar boat in our shed that is sort of bent on the line of the joint between the hulls..., we were wondering if you have any experience on recovering the shape? Can we possibly heat it up and soften it and try to remold it?
We would really appreciate thoughts.
Kind regards,
Alejandro
The resins used are generally thermoset resins if it is a composite boat, so heating it up is not generally going to work. You could jig the boat into the right shape then add bracing and more reinforcement to hold it in shape.
Excellent video and workmanship but the top of the boat is called the deck. You kept referring to it as the hull which is the bottom of the boat lower than the seam. I hate to be so picky!
it is what IT is, and calling it something else won't change that. I get your beef. Fair paddling all!
where did you get the kayak from? is there a canoe polo player from easy comp?
For the life of me, I can't get this smooth, bubble free, finish with the release film.
There are always way too many tiny air bubbles, and some are just impossible to move to the edge without accidently & permanently wrinkling the release film (which leaves a line in the finish). I've tried 4 repairs using these steps and have not been able to get the perfect finish yet.
Can you guys give any more detailed steps or tips for this part of the process?
If you are still struggling with bubbles, very gentle waft a heat gun over the top of the bubble. The resin should thin slightly then the bubble will come to the surface and pop. Once most the big bubbles are gone, then apply the release film working from one side carefully to avoid air inclusion underneath. Even if you do get the odd wrinkle, you can sand it back flat, if necessary recoat, then polish back up to a gloss.
Easy Composites Ltd
Thanks :)
Will give it a go!
will you guys be making any new video's any time soon?
Could you make a video about how to polish these kind of Kayaks?
Well, the correct polishing process would depend on what the actual surface of your kayak is; whether it’s gelcoat or paint, whether it’s epoxy, or polyester and - quite importantly - how thick the coating is. All that said, a relatively fine abrasive paper (400+) and then a polishing compound such as NW1 would be a good starting point in many cases.
In Australia I am having trouble locating non perforated release film. Any ideas on suppliers down here?
Afraid not but if you can't find it, we can ship it to you :-)
I am planning a major project using your prepreg products, I was first studying the carbon fiber prepreg but since this cures in room temperature I wonder if it would not be feasible to make my entire project in Kevlar instead. Multi-layering Kevlar, without the need of using an oven must be the simplest way. I want to make a complete dakar rally fairing plus fuel tank for my motorcycle. Would you recommend to do it purely in Kevlar? I will also make a bash plate.
There are plenty of room temperature curing resins to choose from so no need to go down the pre-preg route unless you specifically want to. You can use kevlar in that way to provide the impact resistance.
thanks for the tips great video
Relating to the kayak used in the video, what would be it's typical construction? i.e. what weight fabric would have been used and how many layers?
There are so many different possible layup combinations that it would be impossible to give an exact layup.
Does the same technique apply to squishy patches. I have a large patch on the bottom of my canoe polo boat that has lost its structure but it’s not cracked or visibly damaged. Would this benefit from a patch?
Yes as it is where the resin at least has failed. If accessible, you could repair on the inside for neatness. You may need to sand and reseal the surface with resin if it is compromised and leaks.
hi!
please, what Release Film is this product?
i can't find it on your website.
thank you!
The film is our un-perforated release film which you can find here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/vacuum-equipment-and-supplies/vacuum-bagging-consumables/release-film-unperforated.html
Gorgeous hair
Thx a lot!
Can you show how to make a kayak paddle in the most simplistic way?
Thanks for the suggestion, we'll certainly think about it and at it to the list.
ive made many surfboards over the years in other countrys but never in UK and the cost of materials is very high. ive never used cling film in the proceedure but seen it used in working with carbon fibre can anyone tell me if they've seen it used in the case of ordinary fibre glass and polyester resins and on what products, thanks? I am now making my very first combat knife sheath by using a blowgun on polyethelene plastic sheet 3mm thick. the finish is amazing.I would love to make a guitar case out of this material and also out of this carbon fibre course weave material used on your canoe, but then it all depends on the price of materials in relation economically to the product. I made a rifle case once by joining two plastic kids school cases and cutting joining and reinforcing them and finished them off with angle aluminium metal beading on edge using rivets screws and fibre glass ribbon tape. glass fibre is a beautiful thing. have any of you ever read captain cooks amazingly descriptive paragraphs in the chapter of his first sighting of surfing in the Polynesian islands or probably Tahiti?. Well read it , it will blow your minds. And so that's where they got the name polyester resin. it was name after Poly the Parrot that belonged to Captain Silver in the Polynesians. He kept talkin 'n'singin........ "did u remember to put the harder in stupid"'!!!
er sorry still learning ta speak English meant "hardner" stupid!!!!
don't be silly, no parrot is gonna know what "catalyst" means stupid!!!
well catalyst comes from the island of catalina
The film we use in the video is not cling film but a special release film which does not stick to resins. We would not recommend using cling film as only some clingfilms are non-stick. You could make cases and even a guitar from carbon fibre if you wished. It is as you say, about budget to an extent.
will it fix my broken, straight leg ,chairs?
You could use a similar technique. I assume we are talking about a custom bit of carbon furniture here?? If they are round legs then it would be perfect to use our Fishing Pole Repair Kit, the technique for which can be found in this video: How to Repair a Broken Carbon Fibre (Fiber) Fishing Pole or Rod
Now I know this is a very old thread but hopefully you may see this.. My release film keeps crinkling a lot! I've tried using lighter & heavier release film, tight stretch through to almost no stretch. It's pretty warm here so am only using 1 - 1.5 ml per hundy of MEKP to 100ml resin. Any help appreciated
Is your release film compatible with Styrene? In this video, we're using epoxy resin but as you mention MEKP, I assume you're working with Poly or Vinylester resin - the styrene emitted whilst these cure can attack, soften or even dissolve certain plastics so it would be worth checking compatibility of the film you're using.
Ahh that’ll be why then, yes I’m using polyester on my old race boat, I’ll see if there’s any release film more compatible. Thank you for responding, your channel is often my go to. Kind Regards Chris
@@chrismaitland6636 Its a pleasure :)
Went back to tried and trusted peel ply, I’ll finish of with either clear gel coat or just clear coat
need to repair my slalom kayak but first time doing it its carbon kevlar but dont know what things to get to repare it could u reply with a list
If you watch the video through our EasyComposites website in the Learning Centre, then there is a "shopping list" of items used next to the video. The quantity will depend on the specific repairs you need to make.
Easy Composites Ltd 0
Cool! Thanks!
Is the release film necessary or could something like saran wrap or clingfilm suffice?
The release film we use is ETFE which is an excellent combination of release properties (practically nothing sticks to it) with strength and stretch meaning it works really well for this type of repair. The problem with clingfilm is that they're not all made from the same material - some will release from epoxy resin and others will stick to it so it would be important to do a test run first. The second issue is that they're much more stretchy and less strong making it harder to get quick as good a finish, however, certainly experiment and you might find you can get results you're happy with.
Cheers
Ive been watching your videos since the carbon mods days, how did i miss your point break hairdoo????
You snooze, you lose Martin ;)
@@easycompositestv best hair ever :D but interferes with work
:/ I had hair almost like yours
, but cut after they touch the resin :/
You guys need a new back banner. "Competative" pricing? ;)
Great video though!
Bring back this hair~
It did make a bit of a reappearance during Covid!
Is the resin epoxy?
Yes it is.
@easycompositestv do you have to put a UV top coat on top once finished?
@@mountdoomee It's not usually necessary for this particular application but for repairs which are likely to spend more time outdoor then a clearcoat could be sprayed over the top.
Your hair changed 😂😂
good
Good
this canoe is made too weak, they should put 2-3 layers more and it would never be damaged
Its a balance between weight and strength when looking at competition Kayaks. An extra 3 layers could have added a couple of kilo's to the weight.
ok for competition when somebody else pay for it, but for recreation, for me is better to be durable and little heavier than fragile and light
Haaa finally a girl in composites.......haaa
Canoe polo!!!
Also beim besten Willen. Das ist Pfusch und keine fachgerechte Reparatur
vacuum bags?!!!
Not normally convenient for small patch repairs but for larger repairs (usually on full size boats, rather than canoes or kayaks) a vacuum bag process is sometimes used.
Sorry guys that's a half ass repair. You needed to remove the damage. And feather the repair .
Damn, it is not as safe as i thought! working with composites seems to be make you loose hair and age quickly !
Well, it's lock-down now so everyone's hair is getting longer again. However, we're not getting any younger!