Hello there, I'm only half way into your excellent and most informative video, but as a 64 year old cabinet maker, having held my first scraper at the age of 13 (I didn't start the trade until much, much later), I would like to share my personal approach on a couple of matters: filing and honing. 1) No matter what, one should NEVER pull a file. It should ALWAYS be lifted on the pull stroke. Why? Because the simple pull motion is exactly what wears files out. Take a jeweller's magnifying lens and you'll see that files have TEETH- V-shaped exactly. The cutting face is usually perpendicular to the flat surface of the file's corpus (body). The apex, which is the sharp tip or point of each tooth is severely damaged when pulling; it's only meant to work on the push stroke. So, the proper motion would be: push, lift, push, lift, and so on. 2) Personally, while sharpening, I tend to use the side of the stone for sharpening the edge of the scraper, because the extremely thin cutting edge WILL put score marks and ruin the flatness of the large surface (unless you "slide" it diagonally). Stones should be maintained flat constantly- just like the Japanese Masters do (except they only use water stones). For hard oilstones you can use Carborundum powder- this is simply Aluminum Oxide, sold in different grains. Clean the stone thoroughly of all oil, and sprinkle the afore-mentioned powder (80, 120, 320 etc. grit) with water on a thick plate of glass and place your oilstone on this and use different strokes- back and forth and figure eights and so on, until the stone "sucks" the surface. When this is done, your stone is FLAT- ready to use again. Cabinet makers like flat surfaces! I'm slowly quitting oilstones (except for scrapers) for Japanese water stones, so much quicker, cleaner, and much more precise. May I suggest you use 50% petrol (gasoline in the US) with your oil. We used this recipe in Paris France; it speeds up the process no end, and "unclogs" the stone- easier to clean each time. Oops , I'd better get back to the video. I hope my comments may be of some use to you and others. In the meantime I'd like to congratulate you on your excellent exposé of the wonderful world of scrapers (these lovely little "planes"). Great video and wonderful, kind gentleman. Greetings from France. P.S. I'm lucky to own, and use, a fantastic German Ulmia burnisher. It's full sized tool, almost like a plane, with a rabbet all along the length, and a hardened steel wheel in the centre. You run the scraper along the fence, and out comes a phenomenal edge that will produce plane shavings if desired! I have about 40 scrapers, plus several shaped blades for making mouldings using homemade scratch stocks (very ancient technique). Otherwise a file-shaped burnisher, also German.
i was looking to find out about card scrappers- the different types and how maintain and to use them i learned more from you in 30 mins than i have in a month of studying about them- you are a great teacher- your presentation & knowledge along with your personality made this a VERY pleasant and informative experience with much appreciation- thank you
Hello, thanks for your video and the work you put into them. I would like to add 2 points: 1) that the material for the burnisher has to be harder than the card scrapers which can be "had' in hardnesses that vary between 38 Rockwell C, for inexpensive spring steel cards, to Rc 52 for "hard" card scrapers. So the shaft of an old screw driver may not work, at least not very well. 2) it can be helpful to ease the corners of the cards (which rarely if ever come into play) A little inattention using the scraper on a surface can cause a dig at the corner and PRESTO you're having a bad day!
Thanks! I learned the radius the corners point you mentioned the hard way, definitely makes for a bad day if that happens, so it's important to take a little time and ease them like you mentioned, great point! :)
A great video, Tom! As always, you show great skill without being condescending, and always say yours is just ONE way. This is always reassuring. For myself, although I use a lot of power tools, I always come back to the card scraper in the end of almost every process.Learning how to sharpen and use one literally changed my woodworking life.
Great video my friend. I could go on for hours, but won't. There are many schools of sharpening and use. You have done a fine job here, and I'm sure your finished guitars are wonderful works of art. Take good care. God bless. Greetings from France.
Thanks Dave! So glad to hear it was helpful and that you liked the format. I'm thinking about making some more videos like this about other tools and topics, so your feedback helps.
Thank you for sharing your expertise. What about sharpening a scraper for flattening coats of shellac? If the edge is not perfectly 90 degrees, scraping leaves unwanted grooves, fine but visible. I do not like sanding between coats when French polishing: shellac if soooo hard. Scraping with a utility razor blade works well, but I would like to use my 4" scraper. Do you have a technique for sharpening a scaper for shellac surfaces?
Thanks for all the details. I just started using scrapers so it's super helpful to see how to use the burnisher correctly. I was wondering, do you use the french curve style scrapers and (if so) is your technique for sharpening them any different from the straight or curved ones that you demonstrated?
Hi Justin, glad it was helpful! I don't use the French curve or gooseneck scrapers as much anymore, but when I do, I use the same method for sharpening those as well. You have to rotate it a few times to roll out that bur all the way around the curves.
Hi @mentalswill, It's a pattern maker's vise, but I can't remember the brand name, but you can find the info and link to it (and many of the other tools I use and recommend) in my Luthier Tool guide here: theartoflutherie.com/luthier-tools/
Please take this criticism with a grain of salt. All of this information has been published for decades. Tage Frid wrote books on this subject 50 years ago, and fine woodworking has published dozens of articles on the use, care and sharpening of scrapers. I also believe that the hundreds of dozens of graduates from woodworking schools have taught their share as well. I find it quite bothersome to watch people portray themselves as having discovered this on your own. This one of the most basic skills a woodworker can acquire. I would be nice to see people acknowledge the founding fathers of woodworking journalism and education that came before TH-cam.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Tom is great!! If you're not a member of The Art of Lutherie, you're really missing out! He has taken my building to whole new level.
Hello there,
I'm only half way into your excellent and most informative video, but as a 64 year old cabinet maker, having held my first scraper at the age of 13 (I didn't start the trade until much, much later), I would like to share my personal approach on a couple of matters: filing and honing.
1) No matter what, one should NEVER pull a file. It should ALWAYS be lifted on the pull stroke. Why? Because the simple pull motion is exactly what wears files out. Take a jeweller's magnifying lens and you'll see that files have TEETH- V-shaped exactly. The cutting face is usually perpendicular to the flat surface of the file's corpus (body). The apex, which is the sharp tip or point of each tooth is severely damaged when pulling; it's only meant to work on the push stroke. So, the proper motion would be: push, lift, push, lift, and so on.
2) Personally, while sharpening, I tend to use the side of the stone for sharpening the edge of the scraper, because the extremely thin cutting edge WILL put score marks and ruin the flatness of the large surface (unless you "slide" it diagonally). Stones should be maintained flat constantly- just like the Japanese Masters do (except they only use water stones). For hard oilstones you can use Carborundum powder- this is simply Aluminum Oxide, sold in different grains. Clean the stone thoroughly of all oil, and sprinkle the afore-mentioned powder (80, 120, 320 etc. grit) with water on a thick plate of glass and place your oilstone on this and use different strokes- back and forth and figure eights and so on, until the stone "sucks" the surface. When this is done, your stone is FLAT- ready to use again. Cabinet makers like flat surfaces!
I'm slowly quitting oilstones (except for scrapers) for Japanese water stones, so much quicker, cleaner, and much more precise.
May I suggest you use 50% petrol (gasoline in the US) with your oil. We used this recipe in Paris France; it speeds up the process no end, and "unclogs" the stone- easier to clean each time.
Oops , I'd better get back to the video. I hope my comments may be of some use to you and others. In the meantime I'd like to congratulate you on your excellent exposé of the wonderful world of scrapers (these lovely little "planes"). Great video and wonderful, kind gentleman.
Greetings from France.
P.S. I'm lucky to own, and use, a fantastic German Ulmia burnisher. It's full sized tool, almost like a plane, with a rabbet all along the length, and a hardened steel wheel in the centre. You run the scraper along the fence, and out comes a phenomenal edge that will produce plane shavings if desired! I have about 40 scrapers, plus several shaped blades for making mouldings using homemade scratch stocks (very ancient technique). Otherwise a file-shaped burnisher, also German.
i was looking to find out about card scrappers-
the different types and how maintain and to use them
i learned more from you in 30 mins than i have in a month of studying about them-
you are a great teacher- your presentation & knowledge along with your personality made this a VERY pleasant and informative experience
with much appreciation- thank you
So glad to hear it was helpful, thanks so much for sharing that! :)
Hello, thanks for your video and the work you put into them. I would like to add 2 points: 1) that the material for the burnisher has to be harder than the card scrapers which can be "had' in hardnesses that vary between 38 Rockwell C, for inexpensive spring steel cards, to Rc 52 for "hard" card scrapers. So the shaft of an old screw driver may not work, at least not very well. 2) it can be helpful to ease the corners of the cards (which rarely if ever come into play) A little inattention using the scraper on a surface can cause a dig at the corner and PRESTO you're having a bad day!
Thanks! I learned the radius the corners point you mentioned the hard way, definitely makes for a bad day if that happens, so it's important to take a little time and ease them like you mentioned, great point! :)
Very helpful!
Excellent job describing and demonstrating techniques. I found it very soothing. Thanks!
Really useful reminder, thanks.
Very Informative Video. Great Job . Thanks
Great explanation of sharpening and using card scrapers. I’ve struggled getting mine sharpened, mainly not getting the knowledge needed. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! :)
Awesome video!! Thank you.
Dude, you are a lutherier, you do you. Who cares what others do 🔨🔨🔨
Great video!!! The details of the why were excellent for me. Now I have a much better understanding and appreciation for scrapers.
This is a huge help, Thanks Godbless
So helpful! I've used my scrapers a couple times, so this was perfect for me. Now I know what I can do better next time! Thank you!
So glad to hear it was helpful! It takes a little practice but it’s worth the effort for sure.
Thank you for sharing, violin makers use them ,,❤
Hi Richard, Glad it was helpful! :)
Many, many thanks!
Very insightful, sir, and very enjoyable. Thanks for taking the time to put together a great video sharing your knowledge.
great energy mate I am on my guitar building journey any tip and trick is a great help almost feels like cheating
A great video, Tom! As always, you show great skill without being condescending, and always say yours is just ONE way. This is always reassuring. For myself, although I use a lot of power tools, I always come back to the card scraper in the end of almost every process.Learning how to sharpen and use one literally changed my woodworking life.
Thanks so much Robert! So glad you enjoyed it!
Great video my friend. I could go on for hours, but won't. There are many schools of sharpening and use. You have done a fine job here, and I'm sure your finished guitars are wonderful works of art. Take good care. God bless.
Greetings from France.
Thanks so much! glad it was helpful!
I love using those Stewmac Ultimate scrapers! Great video Tom
Excellent scraper knowledge!!! Thank you!!!
Great Video....THANKS!
Hey Alan, glad it was helpful! Hope you're doing well!
If you could make a video about how you sharpen gouges, that would be great. I’ve always struggled with getting a great edge on those
Ðas würde mich auch interessieren
Thanks. Great video. Great format.
Thanks Dave! So glad to hear it was helpful and that you liked the format. I'm thinking about making some more videos like this about other tools and topics, so your feedback helps.
Great video. Thank you
So glad you found it helpful! :)
Can't remember the last time I watched a 35 min. instructional video in one sitting. And it was about card scrapers....
This is awesome!
Wonderful, thanks!
Absolutely a great video, thanks so much!
Thanks Alan, glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing your expertise. What about sharpening a scraper for flattening coats of shellac? If the edge is not perfectly 90 degrees, scraping leaves unwanted grooves, fine but visible.
I do not like sanding between coats when French polishing: shellac if soooo hard. Scraping with a utility razor blade works well, but I would like to use my 4" scraper. Do you have a technique for sharpening a scaper for shellac surfaces?
Thanks for all the details. I just started using scrapers so it's super helpful to see how to use the burnisher correctly.
I was wondering, do you use the french curve style scrapers and (if so) is your technique for sharpening them any different from the straight or curved ones that you demonstrated?
Hi Justin, glad it was helpful! I don't use the French curve or gooseneck scrapers as much anymore, but when I do, I use the same method for sharpening those as well. You have to rotate it a few times to roll out that bur all the way around the curves.
Thanks for the excellent video. What would be your recommended scraper for fitting a bridge to a mandolin or archtop guitar?
I use a scraper for parts of the fitting process, but I do the final fit with sandpaper because it allows me to get a more precise fit.
The green vise - what brand is it?
Hi @mentalswill, It's a pattern maker's vise, but I can't remember the brand name, but you can find the info and link to it (and many of the other tools I use and recommend) in my Luthier Tool guide here: theartoflutherie.com/luthier-tools/
@@TheArtOfLutherie thanks
And why do have toast in the jaws…
Never played guitar. Never made a guitar. Don’t listen to much music with guitars (as far as I’m aware)
Why is this so interesting to me???
Maybe because humans have evolved using tools for the last couple hundred thousand years! Find something in your life that needs scraping!
Good video. Could have been a little bit shorter?
Please take this criticism with a grain of salt. All of this information has been published for decades. Tage Frid wrote books on this subject 50 years ago, and fine woodworking has published dozens of articles on the use, care and sharpening of scrapers. I also believe that the hundreds of dozens of graduates from woodworking schools have taught their share as well. I find it quite bothersome to watch people portray themselves as having discovered this on your own. This one of the most basic skills a woodworker can acquire. I would be nice to see people acknowledge the founding fathers of woodworking journalism and education that came before TH-cam.
Fair point! Accreditation and citing sources are really important.
Absolutely a great video, thanks so much!