Hi! There are trolls everywhere. No matter what you do, someone will find fault with it. You have been giving us great information. I'm sure that most of us appreciate what you're telling us. Thank you!
Thanks my friend. I don't worry about the haters. Sometimes they do have a good point, it's just how they deliver it. I immediately delete any comments with profanity, insults, or mean to other viewers. That does not help anyone.
I like your Made in China comment after mentioning quality Eagle Rods. Scat, Sunk2, Eagle, Manley rods are all manufactured in China. Skunk2 Rods and Eagle Rods sude by side are absolutely identical, enen in there tolerances. They merely just have a different name printed on them. Same goes for Eagle crankshaft, China. The only American built and manufactured Rods I can say with confidence that is made in the US is ARP. This information is past onto me by Jeff at CNC Werx who produces performance engines and the all famous CSS block support. Though many Rods and cranks are made in China there quality and performance is still pretty good. It's just unfortunate they are made over seas.
Pete thanks for bringing science into engine building. I always appreciate empirical evidence based decision making. It would be interesting to know what the exact deviations were between wet top and dry. I agree that your chart pretty clearly showed less deviation wet, I would just like to know what percentage. Great video.
That's a great question Mike. When you consider the total area of the thread engagement compared to the area under the head, I would guess it to be maybe 1%, but it's worth measuring
Thanks Pete, I really appreciate the timeout and the explanation of the lube on the bolts. I have recently built a 4 cylinder block and left off the lube on the thread going into the block but still torqued the studs down. I then put the lube on the top of the stud and on the nut do you think that would be ok? I am a real novice at this.
Excellent video. Question on lubing under the bolt head... I see the lube resulted in the bolt angle (at a given torque value) increasing from the 12 o’clock to the 12:30 position and that resulted in more consistent breakaway torque values across all the bolts tested. I don’t know how far the angle needs to move before the bolt gets into the TTY (torque to yield) range. Technically speaking the graph would indicate that any angle beyond 75% of the bolt’s tension rating would be in the TTY range, meaning the 12:30 position would be in the TTY range and the bolt should then not be re-used? I understand it’s not perfectly consistent from bolt to bolt and the 12:30 must be at the low end of the TTY range so maybe shouldn’t be a concern? So in addition to this question about the tension stresses put on the bolt at the 12:30, I would also ask “How much does the preload (clamping force) increase at a given torque value when adding lubricant under the bolt head?” Maybe stating the answer in % would be the most helpful. Hope that makes sense and thanks in advance.
Correct, every TTY bolt should be replaced. The surface area under the head is very small so the force required to overcome any friction is small. I would think measuring with and without lube under the head would be difficult to tell.
The engine builder who assembled my engine, shaved his arms before working on the engine. He said a single hair on a bearing would change the Tollerance.
Pete, I would love for you to do work on my Ford 4.6 3 valve. You know your stuff, this 4.6 is built to the hilt, all forged, bad ass comp cams with 650 lift on both Eand I. You can do a video on it, it has ALL ARP stuff throughout, Mahle rods etc.
@@PetesGarage well, while I have been to Buffalo NY, I currently live in Jacksonville Florida, so I guess I have to skip this opportunity lol. Unless of course you would like some sunshine and great weather.
Pete, from what I saw here and from speaking to ARP, proper torque is 75 to 80% of the total elastic range torque, after that point the bolt or stud enters the plastic range where it is permanently stretched and the clamping force attained and intended at 75-80% of the total elastic torque is lessened because of the permenant stretch. My question is, if a fastener sits at 75-80% of the total elastic zone, is it possible for the combination of heat expansion of the aluminum head, plus, peak combustion stresses at the redline to PUSH a fastener INTO the plastic zone?, thereby permanently loosening the fastener? I see lots of loose head bolts, and question the quality control and oem torque of bolts, relative to daily stresses of august heat expansion and zero to redline romps in that heat, pushing the fasteners plastic. I hope I am making myself clear, thanks, good video
You are correct about the 75% to 80% range. Aluminum gives off heat faster than its coefficient of expansion. Since the head is under load from all of the bolts it would expand out, away from the bolt, but I would need to measure that. Most OEM's are going to TTY fasteners for that reason. The torque program is fairly complex.
Pete's Garage thanks Pete. I plan to use a sensor to estimate peak combustion stress at the redline. I want to know that 75% keeps the bolts within the elastic range, I am very nervous about heat and peak combustion stress at 6500 rpm pushing the bolt/stud into the plastic zone effectively decreasing the clamping force due to the bolt/stud permanently stretching
Hi Pete would it be fine to use arp torque lube on cylinder head bolts that are not arp? I'm installing heads in a 2011 ram 1500 5.7 hemi and I'm trying to do everything correct to have success. I failed once and had a head gasket leak from install. The guy at the machine shop told me if you use the arp lube it will be too slick and I may over torque the bolts and brek them. What do you think?
ARP lube is designed for their bolts with the coating they put on them. If you are using stock bolts, follow what the manufacturer recommends. If you can't find that, clean the holes and the bolts and put a small dab of engine oil on the lead threads only.
Excellent video. Do you really think that "Pittsburgh Pro" digital torque adapter is accurate and reliable enough, to calibrate your torque wrench? I own brand new "Pittsburgh Pro",1/2" drive torque adapter.I also own brand new "ACDelco" Heavy Duty 1/2" digital torque adapter (ARM602-4),and "ACDelco" Heavy Duty 3/8" digital torque adapter (ARM602-3). I always like to compare results of all of my torque wrenches,but I'm very sceptical. By the way,My "Pittsburgh Pro" is draining battery when is stored. "ACDelco's" don't drain batteries.
Thanks my friend. The Pittsburgh Pro is good enough to verify the torque wrench is close. I use it as a quick sanity check. You are right, you have to take the batteries out when not in use, which sucks.
Hi pete been thinking bout purching some anti sceize & who better to ask than u.. on what do i base my purchase on ? Do i choose on the fastner material ? Or the material the fastner is going into ?
Why do i have to re - torque my heads after my engine runs and warms up . Usually the torque is off by apporx 5 to 8 ft lbs. less , when i torqued them perfectly during assy. What happened ? , was it the head bolt or the head gasket compromising the torque specs.
1. Show hands only. 2. Start swearing here and there. 3. Open beer can. 4. Wrap it up 5. Create funny new words. 6. Become TH-cam billionaire. Great Video. Learned a lot. Sad it's not going viral.
Hey Pete! You have some great information around! I've watched a lot of your videos, very educational! I am currently rebuilding my engine (2.8 VR6 24V) and I bought a set of forged rods, they came in with 5/16" ARP bolts (the engine is not undergoing any performance upgrades, I am upgrading the bearings and the rods for it to be futureproof against some common VR6 problems with rod bearings, so its going to be at ~200ish HP for a while). The issue is that, for some reason there was no ARP Ultra Torque lube in the package, and there is no one selling ARP Ultra Torque lube in my country, so its inaccessible to me. How should I go about this? I have Liqui Moly LM48 which is MoS2 lubricant (thick dark gray paste) and I also have Lucas Oil Assembly lube (green thick oil), I also have different kinds of oils mineral, synthetic etc. The specs also say that I should torque the bolts to 26 ft/lbs (35 Nm) with the ARP lube... So my questions can be summarized to: what can I use instead of the ARP lube, how is that going to change the torque (if it is going to change it), do I need to torque them a bit more, or keep it at 26 ft/lbs? Is 26 ft/lbs really everything that is needed on an ARP bolt? My stock bolts are torqued to 30Nm + 90 degrees (I do realize that now im using different rods with different bolts, just trying to double check). I cant find an answer to either of these questions and ARP is not replying to my emails, my block is coming in tomorrow (it was bored for bigger pistons) and I need to start assembling it. What is your advice? Thanks!
If the ARP bolt says 26 ft lbs and no angle, I would do that with just dry threads. Clean them very good. Torque them once to condition the threads, loosen and retorque. That would be for a grade 8 bolt.
Thanks my friend. I took the manufacturing side of engineering that shared some classes with mechanical. I did my Master's thesis on machining cylinder heads.
You are a GM Engineer? WHICH ONE OF YOU PUT THE S10 / SONOMA / JIMMY HEATER CORE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE F'N DASH?!?!? WHO DESIGNED THE QUAD-4??? WHO DECIDED NOT TO PUT TIMING MARKS ON THE 3.4 DOHC?!?!?
I had to take off a side cover to my motorcycle and due to rusted bolts, had a difficult time, I therefore bought locktite to keep the new bolts from rusting. I didn't know. I am not a mechanic. Now what? I put new bolts on hand tight- snug
My copper engine is really running strong today lols melts out the bottom...1 ricer disliked this video...I cant believe this doesn't even have 5000 views what is America coming too
![เปิดคำทำนาย นอสตราดามุส - บาบา วานก้า ปี 2025 คนทั่วโลกต้องเจออะไรบ้าง? | แฉ 11 ธ.ค. 67 [2/3] |GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xmTIKWJUMPM/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi! There are trolls everywhere. No matter what you do, someone will find fault with it. You have been giving us great information. I'm sure that most of us appreciate what you're telling us. Thank you!
Thank you very much David
Cleanliness is godliness when it comes to building engines and other major drive train components
I keep sayin' it, never had an engine fail from being too clean.
Another truly excellent video with a wealth of information, from the Garage.
Thanks my friend
Very well put Pete. Thank you for your experience and knowledge
Thank you for watching my friend.
In depth video, learned something new. Thanks
Thank you for watching
Don't worry about the haters Pete 👍🏻 this video was awesome and learned a tone about torquing and will remember this for future reference. Thank you
Thanks my friend. I don't worry about the haters. Sometimes they do have a good point, it's just how they deliver it. I immediately delete any comments with profanity, insults, or mean to other viewers. That does not help anyone.
great video, especially for those of us who have built engines, followed the steps, and when asked why you do things we do
There is a reason for everything I do. If I don't tell you the "why", just the "what" is useless.
Excellent video. Note to self. Spend the extra $110 for ARP studs/bolts and ARP lube. And quit eating that darn chocolate on that assembly line.
You'd die if I told you all the stuff I see on the engine assembly line....at least it was a Snicker's.
Great video with real results to show!
I think it gets the point across
I like your Made in China comment after mentioning quality Eagle Rods. Scat, Sunk2, Eagle, Manley rods are all manufactured in China. Skunk2 Rods and Eagle Rods sude by side are absolutely identical, enen in there tolerances. They merely just have a different name printed on them. Same goes for Eagle crankshaft, China.
The only American built and manufactured Rods I can say with confidence that is made in the US is ARP. This information is past onto me by Jeff at CNC Werx who produces performance engines and the all famous CSS block support. Though many Rods and cranks are made in China there quality and performance is still pretty good. It's just unfortunate they are made over seas.
Thanks Jim
Awesome video. Folks would do well to pay attention to the advice given here. Years of practical experience.
Thank you my friend
Pete thanks for bringing science into engine building. I always appreciate empirical evidence based decision making. It would be interesting to know what the exact deviations were between wet top and dry. I agree that your chart pretty clearly showed less deviation wet, I would just like to know what percentage. Great video.
That's a great question Mike. When you consider the total area of the thread engagement compared to the area under the head, I would guess it to be maybe 1%, but it's worth measuring
Loved this build. Cant wait for the next one.
I'm working on a few cool ideas.
Awesome video sir. Thank you for taking the time to teach us.
Thank you for taking the time to watch
Thanks Pete, I really appreciate the timeout and the explanation of the lube on the bolts. I have recently built a 4 cylinder block and left off the lube on the thread going into the block but still torqued the studs down. I then put the lube on the top of the stud and on the nut do you think that would be ok? I am a real novice at this.
Thanks Mark. You are fine with that. The studs just rest in the block, the clamp load is applied with the nut, you're good!
Thank you, this has taken a large worry off my shoulders.
How much difference does it make to torque values if you use say a 6 inch socket extension rather than not?
An extension will not make a difference. As long as the center of rotation does not move, like with a crows foot.
Excellent video. Question on lubing under the bolt head... I see the lube resulted in the bolt angle (at a given torque value) increasing from the 12 o’clock to the 12:30 position and that resulted in more consistent breakaway torque values across all the bolts tested. I don’t know how far the angle needs to move before the bolt gets into the TTY (torque to yield) range. Technically speaking the graph would indicate that any angle beyond 75% of the bolt’s tension rating would be in the TTY range, meaning the 12:30 position would be in the TTY range and the bolt should then not be re-used? I understand it’s not perfectly consistent from bolt to bolt and the 12:30 must be at the low end of the TTY range so maybe shouldn’t be a concern? So in addition to this question about the tension stresses put on the bolt at the 12:30, I would also ask “How much does the preload (clamping force) increase at a given torque value when adding lubricant under the bolt head?” Maybe stating the answer in % would be the most helpful. Hope that makes sense and thanks in advance.
Correct, every TTY bolt should be replaced. The surface area under the head is very small so the force required to overcome any friction is small. I would think measuring with and without lube under the head would be difficult to tell.
@@PetesGarage Thanks
The engine builder who assembled my engine, shaved his arms before working on the engine. He said a single hair on a bearing would change the Tollerance.
That is true, a hair could lock up a bearing, I'm pretty clean, but sharing arms is a little extreme, but I admire his dedication.
Thanks Pete. Great information.
Thanks my friend
Great videos! I watched one and instantly subscribed.
Awesome! thank you very much my friend
Pete, I would love for you to do work on my Ford 4.6 3 valve. You know your stuff, this 4.6 is built to the hilt, all forged, bad ass comp cams with 650 lift on both Eand I. You can do a video on it, it has ALL ARP stuff throughout, Mahle rods etc.
Let's do it Michael
@@PetesGarage Where ya located?
Buffalo, NY
@@PetesGarage well, while I have been to Buffalo NY, I currently live in Jacksonville Florida, so I guess I have to skip this opportunity lol. Unless of course you would like some sunshine and great weather.
I have a friend with a shop down there, you never know
Your explantion is a very pawerfull 😀😊
Thank you
Pete, from what I saw here and from speaking to ARP, proper torque is 75 to 80% of the total elastic range torque, after that point the bolt or stud enters the plastic range where it is permanently stretched and the clamping force attained and intended at 75-80% of the total elastic torque is lessened because of the permenant stretch.
My question is, if a fastener sits at 75-80% of the total elastic zone, is it possible for the combination of heat expansion of the aluminum head, plus, peak combustion stresses at the redline to PUSH a fastener INTO the plastic zone?, thereby permanently loosening the fastener?
I see lots of loose head bolts, and question the quality control and oem torque of bolts, relative to daily stresses of august heat expansion and zero to redline romps in that heat, pushing the fasteners plastic.
I hope I am making myself clear, thanks, good video
You are correct about the 75% to 80% range. Aluminum gives off heat faster than its coefficient of expansion. Since the head is under load from all of the bolts it would expand out, away from the bolt, but I would need to measure that. Most OEM's are going to TTY fasteners for that reason. The torque program is fairly complex.
Pete's Garage thanks Pete. I plan to use a sensor to estimate peak combustion stress at the redline. I want to know that 75% keeps the bolts within the elastic range, I am very nervous about heat and peak combustion stress at 6500 rpm pushing the bolt/stud into the plastic zone effectively decreasing the clamping force due to the bolt/stud permanently stretching
Educational, Thanks for taking the time to explain.
Thank you for watching
Hi Pete would it be fine to use arp torque lube on cylinder head bolts that are not arp? I'm installing heads in a 2011 ram 1500 5.7 hemi and I'm trying to do everything correct to have success. I failed once and had a head gasket leak from install. The guy at the machine shop told me if you use the arp lube it will be too slick and I may over torque the bolts and brek them. What do you think?
ARP lube is designed for their bolts with the coating they put on them. If you are using stock bolts, follow what the manufacturer recommends. If you can't find that, clean the holes and the bolts and put a small dab of engine oil on the lead threads only.
@@PetesGarage thanks a lot! Will follow the advice
Excellent video.
Do you really think that "Pittsburgh Pro" digital torque adapter is accurate and reliable enough, to calibrate your torque wrench?
I own brand new "Pittsburgh Pro",1/2" drive torque adapter.I also own brand new "ACDelco" Heavy Duty 1/2" digital torque adapter (ARM602-4),and "ACDelco" Heavy Duty 3/8" digital torque adapter (ARM602-3).
I always like to compare results of all of my torque wrenches,but I'm very sceptical.
By the way,My "Pittsburgh Pro" is draining battery when is stored.
"ACDelco's" don't drain batteries.
Thanks my friend. The Pittsburgh Pro is good enough to verify the torque wrench is close. I use it as a quick sanity check. You are right, you have to take the batteries out when not in use, which sucks.
Hi pete been thinking bout purching some anti sceize & who better to ask than u.. on what do i base my purchase on ? Do i choose on the fastner material ? Or the material the fastner is going into ?
Base material
Why do i have to re - torque my heads after my engine runs and warms up . Usually the torque is off by apporx 5 to 8 ft lbs. less , when i torqued them perfectly during assy. What happened ? , was it the head bolt or the head gasket compromising the torque specs.
Depending on the gasket, the torque could relax. After you re-torque it should stay there. That is not uncommon.
I always re torque after the first 200 miles. Is it required? Idk, but I dont think its a bad practice.
1. Show hands only.
2. Start swearing here and there.
3. Open beer can.
4. Wrap it up
5. Create funny new words.
6. Become TH-cam billionaire.
Great Video. Learned a lot. Sad it's not going viral.
Simple formula for success....thanks for watching
Hey Pete! You have some great information around! I've watched a lot of your videos, very educational! I am currently rebuilding my engine (2.8 VR6 24V) and I bought a set of forged rods, they came in with 5/16" ARP bolts (the engine is not undergoing any performance upgrades, I am upgrading the bearings and the rods for it to be futureproof against some common VR6 problems with rod bearings, so its going to be at ~200ish HP for a while). The issue is that, for some reason there was no ARP Ultra Torque lube in the package, and there is no one selling ARP Ultra Torque lube in my country, so its inaccessible to me. How should I go about this? I have Liqui Moly LM48 which is MoS2 lubricant (thick dark gray paste) and I also have Lucas Oil Assembly lube (green thick oil), I also have different kinds of oils mineral, synthetic etc. The specs also say that I should torque the bolts to 26 ft/lbs (35 Nm) with the ARP lube...
So my questions can be summarized to:
what can I use instead of the ARP lube, how is that going to change the torque (if it is going to change it), do I need to torque them a bit more, or keep it at 26 ft/lbs?
Is 26 ft/lbs really everything that is needed on an ARP bolt? My stock bolts are torqued to 30Nm + 90 degrees (I do realize that now im using different rods with different bolts, just trying to double check).
I cant find an answer to either of these questions and ARP is not replying to my emails, my block is coming in tomorrow (it was bored for bigger pistons) and I need to start assembling it. What is your advice? Thanks!
If the ARP bolt says 26 ft lbs and no angle, I would do that with just dry threads. Clean them very good. Torque them once to condition the threads, loosen and retorque. That would be for a grade 8 bolt.
Im not sure what you mean by 8 grade bolt, anyway, so I shouldnt worry about the arp lube, and I can use some of my other lubes, or leave it dry?
Just leave it dry. That is your best bet
Todor Vachev a grade 8 bolt in our country is a rating of how strong it is. ARP's are stronger than a grade 8 so you have nothing to worry about.
So if it says oil use oil or do you always recommend arp lube?
Follow the manufacturers recommendation
Great video, impressive. Do you have a mechanical engineering degree? Thanks Pete, enjoyed it.
Thanks my friend. I took the manufacturing side of engineering that shared some classes with mechanical. I did my Master's thesis on machining cylinder heads.
Chocolate man. I thought it was bad enough wrecking teeth. Turns out, it's also blowing up engines
Right? You would be surprised if I told you all the things I find when I'm doing a root cause analysis.
Keep making content and we'll keep watching it Pete, that's all I can say. Greetings from the other side of the Atlantic.
You are a GM Engineer? WHICH ONE OF YOU PUT THE S10 / SONOMA / JIMMY HEATER CORE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE F'N DASH?!?!? WHO DESIGNED THE QUAD-4??? WHO DECIDED NOT TO PUT TIMING MARKS ON THE 3.4 DOHC?!?!?
AND WHO DESIGNED GM DELCO RADIO THEFTLOCK?!?!
Those are all great questions. I worked in an engine assembly plant, far away from the designers in Detroit.
I had to take off a side cover to my motorcycle and due to rusted bolts, had a difficult time, I therefore bought locktite to keep the new bolts from rusting. I didn't know. I am not a mechanic. Now what? I put new bolts on hand tight- snug
Heat will loosen Loctite. Use anti-seize instead
the best
Thanks Tobias!
Sorry you have to deal with nasty comments. Thanks for the edumication.
It's no big deal, I just delete them
My copper engine is really running strong today lols melts out the bottom...1 ricer disliked this video...I cant believe this doesn't even have 5000 views what is America coming too
Total anarchy....I can't believe it either
too techincial for me
Thanks Mike