I've used the Tom Ridenour ATG Reed Finishing System for years and can turn almost any bad reed into a good player. It's like the system here but taken to another level.
I was taught the same procedure by Joe Allard when I took a few lessons from him. He wants you to do it 100 times to get a very smooth finish. Didn't do the top of the reed, so I'll try it to see if it helps. Then he took out his reed knife & performed magic on my reed. I'm bad at doing that so I don't use a reed knife except to scrape a hard reed down. Nice vlog, thanks for all the info.
I studied with Joe Allard for 10 years. He was a wizard with the reed knife. It took me many years and ruined many reeds before I was good with my reed knife. Also, I agree he never had me adjust the top of the reed with the paper. Joe would change directions as he rotated the reed on the paper (sometimes he just used what ever method book or solo I was studying at the time. I remember clearly his reed station by the window in his Carnegie Hall studio. I started with him when he was on 50th and 6th ave. across the street from Radio City Music Hall, also studied at his home in Tenafly.
Definitely going to try this. Maybe this will help with the Superial reeds that have been ruined with the engraving. Not sure if they changed it back yet. I haven’t purchased a new box in years but those were my favorite reeds.
I have an older reed geek. I tend to use it on older or 'dead' reeds to get a few more days our of em. But I tend not to use it on new reeds. I also need to pick up a new reed geek. mine is a little dull.
Nice video! I use a similar process, but I polish the vamp with 600 grit sandpaper and very light pressure. Just 2 or 3 strokes from the back of the vamp to the tip and past. Then wet it, play it, balance it side to side, and put it in the reed case (or sometimes, the trash can....)
Hello everyone! Say, can anyone tell me what are the exact dimensions of the glass he's using for his work space? I'm trying to find something similar with the kind of glass he's using w/his reeds. Also, what type of glass did he say this was? I couldn't understand him clearly
I use this method more or less the same, but moving the reed (backside) only in one direction, moving downwards from the tip. So in one direction, to avoid "reed stuff"in the hollow spaces of the reed. Normal sandpaper, bought in a normal tool store.
i wonder what cheap paper would be classified in the normal sand paper grit numbering systems.... 4000? i have 3000 in front of me right now (the highest i have from a variety pack off amazon) and it feels rougher
@@saxophonegeeks that's a very good point, hadn't thought of that. but the internet is filled with reed players using sand paper. sigh. gimme a high powered microscope and i'll settle this debate! lol
You're doing VERY little sanding, which is what you need from a new reed, helping it stay flat and blocking the fibers so that it won't get waterlogged easily. It will become shiny and smooth. From my experience it will help a new reed play easier from the start, so the break-in process will be much shorter. Think about the reed, which was in its natural state in the woods, then by manufacturing your turn it into this sax reed. You'll want to slowly break it in. If you do that by immersing it in water for extended periods of time, it'll get waterlogged/warp! If you sand it a bit and slowly introduce it back to moisture, the fibers don't seem to get this shock and don't warp as fast. I hope it makes more sense now.
Not much of a trick and only works well with real not recycled paper. Open any old music book on the stand and rub at will. I'm sure this is about 50 or 60 year old trick. New version is to use polishing cloths. Checkout earspasm channel. Lets not forget the Reedgeek for flattening the bottom of the reed.
This process is described in many articles online and in a book i read on reed modification. Basically you're doing VERY little sanding, which is what you need from a new reed, helping it stay flat and blocking the fibers so that it won't get waterlogged easily. You have to do it to see the difference, you'll see it shining and smooth.
thanks for responding. I don't think that previous commenter even plays the instrument. Some people just want to mess with other people. Shake your confidence. I almost blocked him, but then I wouldn't be able to think you. Cheers and have a great fall.
I just tried this with some old reeds on my desk and can definitely feel a difference, and I like it so far. It's easy enough to do the experiment at home. I had heard about this process before, but didn't know how much I would enjoy the feeling of the reed afterwards. I thought it was about just sealing the reed, and was skeptical too.
I've used the Tom Ridenour ATG Reed Finishing System for years and can turn almost any bad reed into a good player. It's like the system here but taken to another level.
Will be recommending this video to my students thank you New Zealand
I was taught the same procedure by Joe Allard when I took a few lessons from him. He wants you to do it 100 times to get a very smooth finish. Didn't do the top of the reed, so I'll try it to see if it helps. Then he took out his reed knife & performed magic on my reed. I'm bad at doing that so I don't use a reed knife except to scrape a hard reed down. Nice vlog, thanks for all the info.
I studied with Joe Allard for 10 years. He was a wizard with the reed knife. It took me many years and ruined many reeds before I was good with my reed knife. Also, I agree he never had me adjust the top of the reed with the paper. Joe would change directions as he rotated the reed on the paper (sometimes he just used what ever method book or solo I was studying at the time. I remember clearly his reed station by the window in his Carnegie Hall studio. I started with him when he was on 50th and 6th ave. across the street from Radio City Music Hall, also studied at his home in Tenafly.
Definitely going to try this. Maybe this will help with the Superial reeds that have been ruined with the engraving. Not sure if they changed it back yet. I haven’t purchased a new box in years but those were my favorite reeds.
I always play test a brand new reed before I do anything to it. That way I know what is going on and I spend on average maybe 2 min on each reed.
Looking forward to seeing your break in process. I use the Reed Geek at this stage to flatten out the back.
I have an older reed geek. I tend to use it on older or 'dead' reeds to get a few more days our of em. But I tend not to use it on new reeds. I also need to pick up a new reed geek. mine is a little dull.
Nice video! I use a similar process, but I polish the vamp with 600 grit sandpaper and very light pressure. Just 2 or 3 strokes from the back of the vamp to the tip and past. Then wet it, play it, balance it side to side, and put it in the reed case (or sometimes, the trash can....)
the trash can method can work well for sure!! lol.
@@saxophonegeeks hey bro good day,can you tell me how to get in touch with you via email,thank you.
Thanks for the post. Very interesting. Great sax channel. Love it.
thank you. I'm a little slow on 'content'. Thanks for staying on board.
Hello everyone!
Say, can anyone tell me what are the exact dimensions of the glass he's using for his work space? I'm trying to find something similar with the kind of glass he's using w/his reeds.
Also, what type of glass did he say this was? I couldn't understand him clearly
I use this method more or less the same, but moving the reed (backside) only in one direction, moving downwards from the tip. So in one direction, to avoid "reed stuff"in the hollow spaces of the reed. Normal sandpaper, bought in a normal tool store.
nice. I'll try that too. thanks.
Great video, the sound of the reed on paper makes me feel like somebody is scratching a blackboard
no doubt. It's not so bad in person.
you can buy 50,000 grit diamond paste thats in a spray bottle, knife sharpeners use it. a tiny sprits on paper would prolly does a great job too.
lol omnibook ...saxophone geek indeed!
absolutely. It was either that or a Rubank Intermediate. Lol.
@@saxophonegeeksDUDE! I have this book too! I'm learning K.C. Blues atm, pg. 20
4:50 the best reed i ever played had a mark just like that lol
Oof
i wonder what cheap paper would be classified in the normal sand paper grit numbering systems.... 4000? i have 3000 in front of me right now (the highest i have from a variety pack off amazon) and it feels rougher
and I wouldn't use sand paper for this. you don't want the abrasive sand imbedded in your reeds grinding down your mouthpiece.
@@saxophonegeeks that's a very good point, hadn't thought of that. but the internet is filled with reed players using sand paper. sigh. gimme a high powered microscope and i'll settle this debate! lol
@@interwebzful lol.
I would like to know a little more about WHY you do it. What are the benefits?
saxefoner it makes the reed flat against the mouthpiece so less air escapes and it performs better
You're doing VERY little sanding, which is what you need from a new reed, helping it stay flat and blocking the fibers so that it won't get waterlogged easily.
It will become shiny and smooth. From my experience it will help a new reed play easier from the start, so the break-in process will be much shorter.
Think about the reed, which was in its natural state in the woods, then by manufacturing your turn it into this sax reed. You'll want to slowly break it in. If you do that by immersing it in water for extended periods of time, it'll get waterlogged/warp! If you sand it a bit and slowly introduce it back to moisture, the fibers don't seem to get this shock and don't warp as fast.
I hope it makes more sense now.
Not much of a trick and only works well with real not recycled paper. Open any old music book on the stand and rub at will. I'm sure this is about 50 or 60 year old trick. New version is to use polishing cloths. Checkout earspasm channel. Lets not forget the Reedgeek for flattening the bottom of the reed.
Why don’t you tape the corners of the paper of the paper to the glass to stop paper from moving about ha ha ha ha
frank down under
please don't repeat the same process,as tired to see .
Paper? That will do exactly nothing for a reed.
you are welcome to your opinion.
This process is described in many articles online and in a book i read on reed modification. Basically you're doing VERY little sanding, which is what you need from a new reed, helping it stay flat and blocking the fibers so that it won't get waterlogged easily.
You have to do it to see the difference, you'll see it shining and smooth.
thanks for responding. I don't think that previous commenter even plays the instrument. Some people just want to mess with other people. Shake your confidence. I almost blocked him, but then I wouldn't be able to think you. Cheers and have a great fall.
He plays alto sax, clarinet, guitar, trumpet, sousaphone, violin and piano.
I just tried this with some old reeds on my desk and can definitely feel a difference, and I like it so far. It's easy enough to do the experiment at home. I had heard about this process before, but didn't know how much I would enjoy the feeling of the reed afterwards. I thought it was about just sealing the reed, and was skeptical too.