Hi Richard, Little Sis here (don't be confused by the user name, I've had to borrow a phone as I can't add a comment from mine for some reason). Since your recent trip to the UK I've subscribed to your channel and started watching your vids. I'm not a budding electronics repairer but found it very comforting to listen to your familiar voice in the early hours when sleep won't come! I just wanted to let you know how mesmerising it is to watch you on each repair journey. I've really enjoyed learning what all the components are and how they can be fit together in a complex system. I love the way you use analogies to explain things in a way that even someone like me can understand and especially when you dig right down into the science behind how they do their stuff. Keep doing what you're doing, I've learned so much about the way water flows!! 😂 Love you Big Bro. You keep those beautiful hairy fingers away from high-voltage capacitors, yeah!
*For boards with components on 2 sides SMD components get glued on so the board can get wave soldered* The TS101 just had pre-weakened glue to work with. Had you tried a little longer with the other one you would have had the same results. (25:20)
I agree with Det. I have a 20 plus year old Antex 25 Watt iron, unregulated and works fantastically, I've no idea what the tip temp is!. When required the larger fat tip will unsolder things on large copper ground planes easily, so yes the right bit is important. It just works reliably and quickly, you don't need the over complication of these usb powered gimmicks. I can't see them lasting 20 years. Admittedly not too good with unleaded solder, but I avoid using that for repair or building work!
Just a question regarding soldering irons in general. Has anyone used a soldering iron thermometer to actually determine what temperature the tip is actually supplying? Does anyone actually go through the process of calibrating their soldering tips so the temperature set is close to what the tip is actually supplying?
It's not something I've ever done. I generally go by the method of 'if it melts the solder nicely it's hot enough'. Temperature controlled irons are a relatively new phenomenon, most of the time w were just using a mains powered iron, and if we were lucky we got one of those ones with a base stand and a knob on the front that you could turn up or down, but no indication of the actual temperature.
Heya, nice review for a sholdering iron witch you kan take withh you doing some off grid repair very nice. I just ordered the KSGER T-12 with 10 differant tips 1 of them the bc-3, 2-3 weeks transport well see
from what I witness most of the solder that comes on electronics is lead-free solder, and requires a higher temperature to melt. If you add fresh leaded solder (eg 63/37 Sn/Pb) then you bring the composition of the solder closer to its eutectic mixture and hence lowers the temperature required for melting it.
I’ve told my wife the tip makes all the difference. I went for the fnrsi iron and the scope and I’m afraid I’ll lose my tip if I order any more stuff just yet lol. Although, how do you place those two in regards of the fnrsi iron ? Seems horses for courses, no ? Enjoyed the video, cheers. Felt like we all learned something ❤
I have had the TS101 for a little while and I find the tip getting too cold when it touches the PCB pads, and it needs to re-heat again. It is a piece of crap in my book.
Hi Richard, Little Sis here (don't be confused by the user name, I've had to borrow a phone as I can't add a comment from mine for some reason).
Since your recent trip to the UK I've subscribed to your channel and started watching your vids. I'm not a budding electronics repairer but found it very comforting to listen to your familiar voice in the early hours when sleep won't come!
I just wanted to let you know how mesmerising it is to watch you on each repair journey. I've really enjoyed learning what all the components are and how they can be fit together in a complex system. I love the way you use analogies to explain things in a way that even someone like me can understand and especially when you dig right down into the science behind how they do their stuff.
Keep doing what you're doing, I've learned so much about the way water flows!! 😂
Love you Big Bro. You keep those beautiful hairy fingers away from high-voltage capacitors, yeah!
Thanks Sis xxx Guys, this is my little sister learning to fix stuff now. Really! 😇🤩😇I'll try not to singe my fingers x
ts101 is master of that small soldering irons..... i use it for long time and it never let me down its insane good !
I have a TS101 and absolutely love it. I run it from a large USB PD power bank, and it lasts forever(ish).
What power bank are you using?
A battery one
I just bought one of these and I’m glad I found your video great review thank you all the best
*For boards with components on 2 sides SMD components get glued on so the board can get wave soldered*
The TS101 just had pre-weakened glue to work with. Had you tried a little longer with the other one you would have had the same results. (25:20)
Excellent Comparison 👍
I received my Pinecil recently after using my Antex for years it is brilliant. Do you have a solder recommendation?
I love my TS100 !...cheers.
I agree with Det. I have a 20 plus year old Antex 25 Watt iron, unregulated and works fantastically, I've no idea what the tip temp is!. When required the larger fat tip will unsolder things on large copper ground planes easily, so yes the right bit is important. It just works reliably and quickly, you don't need the over complication of these usb powered gimmicks. I can't see them lasting 20 years. Admittedly not too good with unleaded solder, but I avoid using that for repair or building work!
Just a question regarding soldering irons in general. Has anyone used a soldering iron thermometer to actually determine what temperature the tip is actually supplying? Does anyone actually go through the process of calibrating their soldering tips so the temperature set is close to what the tip is actually supplying?
It's not something I've ever done. I generally go by the method of 'if it melts the solder nicely it's hot enough'. Temperature controlled irons are a relatively new phenomenon, most of the time w were just using a mains powered iron, and if we were lucky we got one of those ones with a base stand and a knob on the front that you could turn up or down, but no indication of the actual temperature.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair yup have a Weller soldering gun and a Weller iron with the numbered knob. Also have a KSGER T12 iron and is why I was asking.
You wear the tip out? I use mine as a heat source to melt solder but I suppose it could be a small cole chisel or crow bar ;-)
Heya, nice review for a sholdering iron witch you kan take withh you doing some off grid repair very nice. I just ordered the KSGER T-12 with 10 differant tips 1 of them the bc-3, 2-3 weeks transport well see
Could the grounding screw be connected to the piece you're working on, to reduce the risk of static discharge?
The front screw holds the tip in and the back screw is for ESD protection, it even has a ground symbol moulded into the plastic.
Thanks for the video my friend! 🙏👍just subbed
If you always go for 350 then change T1 to 350 then it starts where you want it. 💪💪
I have the Pinecil. The boost button is easier to press with your thumb. Maybe it was designed that way.
I think they are similar but the technique of Richard is a bit better (he added more solder).
Why use the fresh solder?
Makes it way easier to melt old solder when desoldering.
from what I witness most of the solder that comes on electronics is lead-free solder, and requires a higher temperature to melt. If you add fresh leaded solder (eg 63/37 Sn/Pb) then you bring the composition of the solder closer to its eutectic mixture and hence lowers the temperature required for melting it.
I’ve told my wife the tip makes all the difference. I went for the fnrsi iron and the scope and I’m afraid I’ll lose my tip if I order any more stuff just yet lol. Although, how do you place those two in regards of the fnrsi iron ? Seems horses for courses, no ? Enjoyed the video, cheers. Felt like we all learned something ❤
Yyou can also use t12 tips in the iron i think in ts 100 it can
The screw just needs to be snug, u can change tips without loosening it. I use it with a pd3.1 charger, it's a beast. It heats up super quick.
My boy tossed the cap to a new galaxy and played it off like a chad saying it never left lol.
I have had the TS101 for a little while and I find the tip getting too cold when it touches the PCB pads, and it needs to re-heat again. It is a piece of crap in my book.
Actually i like my pinecil
What solder do you use? I just received my V2 still need to find a power supply.
@@paulb9769 i use pinecil and t12