What brand of air pump is that? Is toms aqua lifter an air pump? Do you think new frags can survive this treatment? Seems it would be tomuch stress on them being so new and just aclimating to my tank. Some which are already not doing well and one dead chaice frag for sure! Why didin you remove the dinos from back of glass as well?
Great teaching here, Mr Cam! So no illuminated refrugium in operation underneath? And please, who makes those outstanding & beautiful white hinges overhead!?
I've done manual removal, Turkey baste, add a uv with low flow, dose h202 after lights out. Dose refresh every other day for 1 week, then 1/2 dose of waste away everyother day for 1 week. Dinos are clearing up nicely. I also raised my phosphates to between .04 and.07.
Another great video Cam, full of practical advice, showing the cause and solution with the various options on how to remove the offending algae, look forward to seeing the improvement on the follow up video. 👍🏴
i have dinos in my tank that i am battling... i thought they start to take hold when your nutrients bottom out ? my nitrate and phos are both 0 and i have dinos as well... my plan is to use dr tims re fresh and waste away and after that use tropic marin NP plus to safely up my nitrates and phos ... im hoping this works
Most informative video ever! I have reddish brown stringy stuff in my tank Its on my rocks and gets on my corals. I also have a red film that gets on glass and sandbed isnt really stringy it looks like diatoms really! I thought I got rid of it when I started blowing off corals every day, tooth brush scrubbing and stirring sand bed around so like a dummy I went and bought a bunch of frags! This stuffed killed alot of frags but most survived. Mainly ones on sand bed died but They were tracys and lobos, plate corals. I have read all these corals on the sand bed I bought have low survival so maybe thats why those died and others didint! When it started coming back I quit doing because I read if it is dinos that blowing, stirring ec could spread them! Now some of my new frags are dying so I started blowing, scrubbing all that again! I dont know If my dong the tooth brush scrubbing, blowing ect has just loosed maybe algae or cyano, because there are no bubbles attached anywhere in tank no stringy stuff on walls just a film! I am so confused as to what it is! How can I identify it? You would think you could send a water sample to a lab or something! I What do I do now? Most new frags are fine except except a few
Great question. I don’t use it often these days, but I think that’s because I can beat Dino easily without it. I’m glad we still sell it though as I’ll probably have another stubborn case of Dino that I want to use it on. I definitely believe it works. Cam
I love this! Great editing, informative and Cam's a champion as always! Dino's are a pain in the ass for sure. The LFS I started reefing because of, was a guy with 40 years experience, and he always said "it'll pass, just remember the water changes" to any issue I had, including dino's and black cyano etc. The problem with that is my lack of patience :D
Sometimes water changes fuel the problem though - they definitely don’t solve all problems. Particularly with dinos, as they can be caused by water that is too “clean”. In my case, the dinos disappeared when I took a break from water changes and removed nitrate/phosphate stripping chemical media from my sump.
I know this is an older video, but I am battling Dino’s now. I’m utilizing Dino X at the moment will be doing the third dose today. Of 7ML for my 45 gallon. It says to wet skim but not add trace minerals back into the water for the duration of the treatment. But it seems to pull a lot of my salt water out and my top off water takes over and drops the salinity. Would you know if I should just turn on the ATO or would it be alright to top off with Salt water to replace the water lost through the wet skimming.
Does carbon dosing course this issue. I have it in my tank but mine dark red. Nitrate real low and phosphate low . Got lost of flow 2 mp40 and maxgiro 350. Redsea max 650
The only time I’ve had problems was when it was accidentally dosed in conjunction with chemi-clean. I find it pretty safe, and it definitely helped with this tank. Cam
I think the words I used were “not great for corals”. Microbubbling causes them to slime up which is metabolically expensive. It’s not a problem occasionally, but you shouldn’t do it too often. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV awesome thanks for the reply mate, much appreciated, saw another video saying it was good for corals, but ill listen to the guy with a degree, cheers Cam
FINALLY a video that actually showed what dino looks like unlike just saying they have dino in the tank. nice to know my nano never had dino hopefully the 120g doesn't
What’s your thoughts on that Dino’s can be caused by ultra low nutrients? These days with aggressive nutrient removal methods ie NoPox and the like we can get them near zero. I use the Hanna ULR Phosphorus tester and have had that bumping off zero in the past. Personally I try to keep Po4 in the range of 0.05 - 0.1
Microbubbles causes corals to produce excessive slime, a process that is metabolically expensive. It’s not necessarily bad for corals when done occasionally, but I wanted to make the point that microbubbling is not a system I employ for any reason other that dino/cyanno control. Cam
Another informative video on dino.. Definitely answered all my pending questions. I just did the same maintenance to my 6' Long system Noticed that setup has radions, if so can u post the link. Still fine tuning mines. Happy Reefing Mate. 🙌😎
The link for the Radion Schedule? We are running the ecotech AB+ template on this tank, however currently the red, green and white has been halved whilst we battle the Dino. Cam
Nice job on the music! I lol’d at the switch. 😂 I’m left wondering what dinos feed on, if super-low nutrients contribute to their growth. And I understand they’re also quite toxic to inverts like snails etc. So they’re obviously converting something in the water that’s over-abundant, into a sort of toxin - this is where it makes sense to me that overly high trace elements of some type could fuel their growth. Their behaviour is more like bacteria than algae (no hold-fasts, dissipate on disturbance, rapid reproduction, etc) so if we carbon dose, do you think that also contributes to their sudden appearance and growth rates? Because bacteria that normally would consume nutrients, need to be fed via carbon dosing to keep them healthy when nutrients drop and it’s very easy to overdose organic carbons? I’ve never had them, so never had occasion to research them.....just wondering based on your experience. 🤔 Excellent to see how you solve problems for your clients in the course of your work! 👍🏻👍🏻
I’m still not sold on the elevated minerals as a cause. I can understand the theory behind the elimination or total elimination of Nitrates and Phosphates though. Thanks, Cam!
Yes, but whilst the nitrate and phosphate has always been low, I’ve never seen it so low that I would expect this problem. Nitrate is usually 2ppm and phosphate 0.02. Cam
5ml per every 100L of tank water. You need to dose it every 2nd day just before your lights turn off. And make sure you are not using carbon or Phosphate removers. How many Liters is your tank?
I had a worse Dino outbreak and I did a 3 day blackout, no lights and covered the glass with blanket so no light got in. Cleared up, no corals died and has not come back.
Since the tank has extreme low nitrate and phosphate i encourage you do stop GFO and target 5 nitrate and 0.05 phosphate by dosing them to the tank and start with 1ml of phosphate flourish per 500 litter within one month you should get good results. And nitrate use nitrogen by sechem as well.
It’s not extremely low nutrients, just never been high. Nitrate 2-5ppm and phosphate 0.02-0.05. There isn’t any GFO, just an efficient refugium with Chaeto. Cam
I have used Hydrogen Peroxide and have found it effective. I’m always worried about it’s affects on the coral health (even though I’ve never had any problems) and the idea of something else for Dino was appealing. Exactly what’s in Dino X, the bottle just lists surfactants in the ingredients. Cam
Interesting question. This tank has one of the best refugiums for chaeto growth of all the tanks we do. Nitrate and phosphate have always been low. It’s hard to pinpoint the exact trigger in this case, but there were a few trace elements that were extremely high on the ICP results. Cam
I think running Cheato will actually worsen the Dino situation. It actually reduces the NO3 and PO4 further and thus aggravates the problem. I hope this helps.
I absolutely love those Scoly’s. .(edit) those are trachyphyllia. That’s what happens when adding comments on 2 hrs sleep. They are amazing. Fighting cyano myself at the moment. It sucks.
He shut down in preparation for moving house. We moved the reefers to the new house 3 weeks ago, so hopefully we’ll see more Natural Reefing videos soon. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV Good to hear that he hasn't given up on the hobby and I am looking forward to seeing his videos again. I hope you videotaped the move of his reefers and will be uploading it for us to watch ;)
Isn’t it amazing how the more you watch videos of different kinds of algae the more you think you have that algae in the tank. I’ve just started minute amounts of Red Sea trace colours (about 50% of the suggested dose) hope this doesn’t happen to me.
I've got dinos - urrggghhh - so timely ;) I am awaiting a UV steriliser and hoping they just go as the tank gets more established. I've heard they really take hold when NO3 / PO4 are low and the ratio is skewed towards PO4.
I had dinos in my tank. I stopped running gfo, reduced the light period, stopped running chaeto, removed hair algae eating inverts sea hare, sea urchins, started feeding my fishes more. Life is good again. But remember 1 thing, dinos are always present in your tank but we need to maintain a balanced nutrient level so that they don’t thrive. Hope this helps.
That’s a good rule, but with ICP testing we can measure the trace elements, we just left it way too long in between tests. We’re going to run an ICP every 9 weeks from now on. Cam
There are at least three Aquarium specific brands available to Aussie reefers starting from $49.95 up to about $65 plus postage. Results take up to 2 weeks.
![Aquarium Maintenance: [EPIC] Tank #3 Update --- Gallery Aquatica TV](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mzKKugUIlVc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Aquarium Maintenance: [EPIC] Tank #3 Update --- Gallery Aquatica TV](/img/tr.png)
Great timing!!
It’s good when that happens isn’t it😊
What brand of air pump is that? Is toms aqua lifter an air pump? Do you think new frags can survive this treatment? Seems it would be tomuch stress on them being so new and just aclimating to my tank. Some which are already not doing well and one dead chaice frag for sure! Why didin you remove the dinos from back of glass as well?
Great teaching here, Mr Cam! So no illuminated refrugium in operation underneath? And please, who makes those outstanding & beautiful white hinges overhead!?
mybeachshack hinges are Blum
mybeachshack probably reverses lighting schedule. I think it’s for stable ph
Useful ! I need to test my water for levels of trace elelements if there was any way to do that myself ??
I've done manual removal, Turkey baste, add a uv with low flow, dose h202 after lights out. Dose refresh every other day for 1 week, then 1/2 dose of waste away everyother day for 1 week. Dinos are clearing up nicely. I also raised my phosphates to between .04 and.07.
I’ve used Wasteaway and Refresh with success in the past, however this Dino X was a quicker and cheaper option. Cam
Thank you for you video on dinos!
Very high quality video with clear communication.
Another great video Cam, full of practical advice, showing the cause and solution with the various options on how to remove the offending algae, look forward to seeing the improvement on the follow up video. 👍🏴
i have dinos in my tank that i am battling... i thought they start to take hold when your nutrients bottom out ? my nitrate and phos are both 0 and i have dinos as well... my plan is to use dr tims re fresh and waste away and after that use tropic marin NP plus to safely up my nitrates and phos ... im hoping this works
Most informative video ever! I have reddish brown stringy stuff in my tank Its on my rocks and gets on my corals. I also have a red film that gets on glass and sandbed isnt really stringy it looks like diatoms really! I thought I got rid of it when I started blowing off corals every day, tooth brush scrubbing and stirring sand bed around so like a dummy I went and bought a bunch of frags! This stuffed killed alot of frags but most survived. Mainly ones on sand bed died but They were tracys and lobos, plate corals. I have read all these corals on the sand bed I bought have low survival so maybe thats why those died and others didint! When it started coming back I quit doing because I read if it is dinos that blowing, stirring ec could spread them! Now some of my new frags are dying so I started blowing, scrubbing all that again! I dont know If my dong the tooth brush scrubbing, blowing ect has just loosed maybe algae or cyano, because there are no bubbles attached anywhere in tank no stringy stuff on walls just a film! I am so confused as to what it is! How can I identify it? You would think you could send a water sample to a lab or something! I What do I do now? Most new frags are fine except except a few
thoughts on this product 4 years later?
Great question. I don’t use it often these days, but I think that’s because I can beat Dino easily without it. I’m glad we still sell it though as I’ll probably have another stubborn case of Dino that I want to use it on. I definitely believe it works. Cam
Great comprehensive video. I really enjoy seeing how the process was done and not just discussing.
Thanks! We’ll post the results in a few days time😊 Cam
I love this! Great editing, informative and Cam's a champion as always! Dino's are a pain in the ass for sure. The LFS I started reefing because of, was a guy with 40 years experience, and he always said "it'll pass, just remember the water changes" to any issue I had, including dino's and black cyano etc. The problem with that is my lack of patience :D
Sometimes water changes fuel the problem though - they definitely don’t solve all problems. Particularly with dinos, as they can be caused by water that is too “clean”.
In my case, the dinos disappeared when I took a break from water changes and removed nitrate/phosphate stripping chemical media from my sump.
I know this is an older video, but I am battling Dino’s now. I’m utilizing Dino X at the moment will be doing the third dose today. Of 7ML for my 45 gallon. It says to wet skim but not add trace minerals back into the water for the duration of the treatment. But it seems to pull a lot of my salt water out and my top off water takes over and drops the salinity. Would you know if I should just turn on the ATO or would it be alright to top off with Salt water to replace the water lost through the wet skimming.
Battle them dinos! Those trachyphyllia are awesome, totally worth the fight. Good luck.
We will show the results in the next video😊
@@GalleryAquaticaTV and results are?
Does carbon dosing course this issue. I have it in my tank but mine dark red. Nitrate real low and phosphate low . Got lost of flow 2 mp40 and maxgiro 350. Redsea max 650
How did the dinox work out? When I used it I lost some of my prize sps corals. Are you seeing any losses by using it?
The only time I’ve had problems was when it was accidentally dosed in conjunction with chemi-clean. I find it pretty safe, and it definitely helped with this tank. Cam
hey mate nice vids, just wondering why do you believe micro bubbling is bad for corals?
I think the words I used were “not great for corals”. Microbubbling causes them to slime up which is metabolically expensive. It’s not a problem occasionally, but you shouldn’t do it too often. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV awesome thanks for the reply mate, much appreciated, saw another video saying it was good for corals, but ill listen to the guy with a degree, cheers Cam
it's like Jurassic Park down under!!!
That’s hilarious😂 That’s the only way I’ll be able to read the title from now on!
Great video guys !
Thanks Rick😊
FINALLY a video that actually showed what dino looks like unlike just saying they have dino in the tank.
nice to know my nano never had dino hopefully the 120g doesn't
Who builds these cabinets with remote controlled gizmos?
What’s your thoughts on that Dino’s can be caused by ultra low nutrients? These days with aggressive nutrient removal methods ie NoPox and the like we can get them near zero. I use the Hanna ULR Phosphorus tester and have had that bumping off zero in the past. Personally I try to keep Po4 in the range of 0.05 - 0.1
That was great, because that’s our problem at the moment. Must get some DinoX
Hello. I have an outbreak but no algea only micro bubbles covering the rock
Hows it different to cyanobacteria?
Brown vs red ???
Taxonomically it’s very different. Morphologically quite similar. With regards to its treatment it’s very similar. Cam
Cyanno is normally red, Dino normally brown. Cam
Why aren't micro bubbles good for the corals? Does it hurt them somehow?
Microbubbles causes corals to produce excessive slime, a process that is metabolically expensive. It’s not necessarily bad for corals when done occasionally, but I wanted to make the point that microbubbling is not a system I employ for any reason other that dino/cyanno control. Cam
Thank you for your great videos . From Lisa & Bernie .
Thanks guys, we appreciate the support😊 Cam
Another informative video on dino.. Definitely answered all my pending questions. I just did the same maintenance to my 6' Long system Noticed that setup has radions, if so can u post the link. Still fine tuning mines. Happy Reefing Mate. 🙌😎
The link for the Radion Schedule? We are running the ecotech AB+ template on this tank, however currently the red, green and white has been halved whilst we battle the Dino. Cam
Nice job on the music! I lol’d at the switch. 😂 I’m left wondering what dinos feed on, if super-low nutrients contribute to their growth. And I understand they’re also quite toxic to inverts like snails etc. So they’re obviously converting something in the water that’s over-abundant, into a sort of toxin - this is where it makes sense to me that overly high trace elements of some type could fuel their growth. Their behaviour is more like bacteria than algae (no hold-fasts, dissipate on disturbance, rapid reproduction, etc) so if we carbon dose, do you think that also contributes to their sudden appearance and growth rates? Because bacteria that normally would consume nutrients, need to be fed via carbon dosing to keep them healthy when nutrients drop and it’s very easy to overdose organic carbons? I’ve never had them, so never had occasion to research them.....just wondering based on your experience. 🤔 Excellent to see how you solve problems for your clients in the course of your work! 👍🏻👍🏻
Is Dino toxic to humans ?
I don’t know. I’ve never had a reaction to touching it but I wouldn’t try eating it. My guess is yes. Cam
I’m still not sold on the elevated minerals as a cause. I can understand the theory behind the elimination or total elimination of Nitrates and Phosphates though. Thanks, Cam!
Yes, but whilst the nitrate and phosphate has always been low, I’ve never seen it so low that I would expect this problem. Nitrate is usually 2ppm and phosphate 0.02. Cam
It’s an interesting debate for sure. Move to Arizona and be my fish guy lol!
Did u check the silicates?
We did an ICP a couple of weeks before the Dino outbreak. Silicon was not high. Cam
Can you guys do a dosing segment on like how much you need to dose
5ml per every 100L of tank water. You need to dose it every 2nd day just before your lights turn off. And make sure you are not using carbon or Phosphate removers.
How many Liters is your tank?
@@josephnassif6557 I'm not sure how many litres is 20 gallons and what would happen if I run carbon and phosphate remover what would clarify the water
@@josephnassif6557 it's about 76 liters
@@matthewpisek6252 carbon removes the medicine product (Dino X) from the water. 20G is 75L so you should use just under 4ml but 4ml should be alright.
@@josephnassif6557 alright thank you very much
I had a worse Dino outbreak and I did a 3 day blackout, no lights and covered the glass with blanket so no light got in. Cleared up, no corals died and has not come back.
Blackouts are definitely another system we employ, the only reason we didn’t do one was because there was so much SPS. Cam
Since the tank has extreme low nitrate and phosphate i encourage you do stop GFO and target 5 nitrate and 0.05 phosphate by dosing them to the tank and start with 1ml of phosphate flourish per 500 litter within one month you should get good results. And nitrate use nitrogen by sechem as well.
It’s not extremely low nutrients, just never been high. Nitrate 2-5ppm and phosphate 0.02-0.05. There isn’t any GFO, just an efficient refugium with Chaeto. Cam
How big is the tank in gallons or liters?
236 gallons. Cam
What is in DinoX? Have you tried H2O2 for Dinos before?
I have used Hydrogen Peroxide and have found it effective. I’m always worried about it’s affects on the coral health (even though I’ve never had any problems) and the idea of something else for Dino was appealing. Exactly what’s in Dino X, the bottle just lists surfactants in the ingredients. Cam
that is such a trick hood!
Could a refugium or chaeto reactor stop/prevent this?
Interesting question. This tank has one of the best refugiums for chaeto growth of all the tanks we do. Nitrate and phosphate have always been low. It’s hard to pinpoint the exact trigger in this case, but there were a few trace elements that were extremely high on the ICP results. Cam
I think running Cheato will actually worsen the Dino situation. It actually reduces the NO3 and PO4 further and thus aggravates the problem. I hope this helps.
Très intéressant, merci !!! 👏👏👏
Dude you don’t lower nutrients for dinos
Incorrect. You don’t lower nitrate or phosphate, you lower the precursor nutrients.
I absolutely love those Scoly’s. .(edit) those are trachyphyllia. That’s what happens when adding comments on 2 hrs sleep. They are amazing. Fighting cyano myself at the moment. It sucks.
This reefer has good taste😊
Better turn off skimmer and take out any carbon if put dino x. I had it and it fixed it but skimmer will pull it out of water..
Stunning tank well done not sure on actual getting in it to place corals but nice tank all the same😀
Hi Cam, awesome video as always. What happened to Natural Reefing? I haven't seen a video from him lately...
He shut down in preparation for moving house. We moved the reefers to the new house 3 weeks ago, so hopefully we’ll see more Natural Reefing videos soon. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV Good to hear that he hasn't given up on the hobby and I am looking forward to seeing his videos again. I hope you videotaped the move of his reefers and will be uploading it for us to watch ;)
How do you know that’s it’s Dino not cyano.
Sometimes both are present at the same time, they were for me
Isn’t it amazing how the more you watch videos of different kinds of algae the more you think you have that algae in the tank. I’ve just started minute amounts of Red Sea trace colours (about 50% of the suggested dose) hope this doesn’t happen to me.
Unlikely you’ll suffer this fate. There was 4 times the suggested dose of trace going into the tank. Cam
Gallery Aquatica TV good to know! Thanks for always replying. You don’t have to, but you do, which is always appreciated.
Don’t spread them around. Filter that through a 5 micron filter sock. They are very stubborn for sure.
I've got dinos - urrggghhh - so timely ;) I am awaiting a UV steriliser and hoping they just go as the tank gets more established. I've heard they really take hold when NO3 / PO4 are low and the ratio is skewed towards PO4.
Try the Dino X! Cam
I thought that Dino’s thrived on low nutrients
This is what you always hear, but I often see it in tanks with high nutrients. Cam
Beautiful tank. Glad you guys are on the case tho. Hope it works. Would be a shame to see it come back
Mine is only bubbles without the algea
Dinox is actually amazing
Totally. I’m so glad I tried it😊
cayno might have bubbles too
That is true. Cam
Top bom trabalho🇧🇷👍
I had dinos in my tank. I stopped running gfo, reduced the light period, stopped running chaeto, removed hair algae eating inverts sea hare, sea urchins, started feeding my fishes more. Life is good again. But remember 1 thing, dinos are always present in your tank but we need to maintain a balanced nutrient level so that they don’t thrive. Hope this helps.
So what I take from this is don’t dose what you can’t measure
That’s a good rule, but with ICP testing we can measure the trace elements, we just left it way too long in between tests. We’re going to run an ICP every 9 weeks from now on. Cam
Gallery Aquatica TV ok that makes sense then! How much does the ICP cost here in Oz?
There are at least three Aquarium specific brands available to Aussie reefers starting from $49.95 up to about $65 plus postage.
Results take up to 2 weeks.
Low nutrients (nitrates specially) cause dino to thrive!
Yes, this tank was probably a good example of that phenomenon. Cam
@@GalleryAquaticaTV how did the dinoX worked for you at the end? Did they go away for good?
Subbed 👍
Thanks Blinkyfish! Cam
Dino X create mess in my system, be aware of it.
God should remove Dino’s from existing asap.
Agreed, they do no good in the world. Cam
how to get rid of dino in 24 hours: wet skim, add uv light, add purigen, add carbon. within 24 hours it will be 95% gone. Thank me later.
awesome video update come check out our Reef Aquascape let us know what you think we learned a lot of tips and tricks from you
Or spread it all over lol