Those drains suck, i hate that stupid metal piece. Oatey used to make a fantastic shower strainer that you could tighten from the top but for some reason they stopped making them. I feel your pain on this repair.
I just had an intermittant leak inside my exterior wall. Leaking through the baseboard moulding. The house sits in a slab. There are NO PIPES in this area. I sealed a bunch tiles on the roof. The leak stopped and eventually came back. I found the neighbors soaker hose blasting full stream in my concrete wall from a bad hose connection. I fixed that. I sealed the foundation. The leak stopped and came back again. Eventually, I found that the water was coming from my shower drain. The plumber's putty was wearing away. I fixed that and the leak stopped! My shower floor is four inches below the rest of the slab. The shower drain is ten feet from the exterior wall. My bedroom is another ten feet from the bathroom. The water was making a 90 degree turn when it it the bathroom wall. This is the last place you would suspect that the water was coming from. Thank God that my visiting son took a forty minute shower that last day! That's how I found the source.
Does the rubber gasket need to at the same height as the pipe? I assume the gasket should be the same height or below so it can compress down without squeezing out between the pip and the inner ring? I'm replacing my drain and am wondering how much I should adjust the height of the pipe to get the proper seal.
is there a standard strainer size? cuz i actually need to replace the one for the downstairs shower, it technically hasnt had one for some time due to rusting out because of well water so it leaks quite a bit into the crawl space as there isnt a strainer.
Yes, the standard size (in the US anyway) is 4-1/4” in diameter on top and then the pipe size is 2”. I have a link in the video’s description of the one I used if you are interested!
Thanks! I installed it that way so that the gasket set screw compresses it against the pipe and forms a seal. It’s the way the instructions say to install it.
First if original shower installer had realized the drain was directly over a joist, why didn't they just cut the joist and make a header to save the integrity of the framing. Instead they ruined a good joist and made for a terrible trap installation. Second, you are a very patient man. I hope you get paid well.
Yep, I have no idea what original installer was thinking. All I can do is make the best of it. And thank you, I have learned over the years that having patience is one of the most important traits to have in this trade.
Is there any level of worthwhile repair to be made purely from above in this situation? I recognize that the way you did it is the right way, but if I don't want to cut away the ceiling below, is it still worth trying to just replace that rubber gasket?
How long did you let the silicone dry before testing? Also do you prefer the solvent weld type drain or the one you used in the video? Great job by the way.
@@jeffmartinez7724 thanks! I use 100% silicone on my drains and always test almost immediately after. I’ve never had any issues doing it this way. Also, I prefer the solvent weld drains to these style as there is typically less parts to fail.
My shower drain cover needs to be removed so I can clean out the hair and gunk. There are no screws, I can't pry it up and it won't twist up. Any advice on how to get the thing off?
@@elkskiutah8204 most if not all silicone manufacturers have a cure time on their label. With that said, I have always run water immediately after and have never had a leak.
@@andy_plumbs good to hear... Customer wanted to use his shower 4 hours after I finished, its jsut the very edge of the silicone that's exposed and the rest can cure slowly for the full 7 day cure as specified for Dow 735
NICE job for working one handed while doing the camera work!!! Thanks !!
Good video bro love what u do
Those drains suck, i hate that stupid metal piece. Oatey used to make a fantastic shower strainer that you could tighten from the top but for some reason they stopped making them. I feel your pain on this repair.
drywall mud is now water resistant 😂 nice work Andy
Maybe they know something we don’t 🤣
Great video and explanation, with awesome camera coverage! Was the leak caused by deterioration of the plumbers putty from initial install?
@@PeterSevetz yep. I see it all the time
I just had an intermittant leak inside my exterior wall. Leaking through the baseboard moulding.
The house sits in a slab.
There are NO PIPES in this area.
I sealed a bunch tiles on the roof.
The leak stopped and eventually came back.
I found the neighbors soaker hose blasting full stream in my concrete wall from a bad hose connection. I fixed that.
I sealed the foundation.
The leak stopped and came back again.
Eventually, I found that the water was coming from my shower drain. The plumber's putty was wearing away.
I fixed that and the leak stopped!
My shower floor is four inches below the rest of the slab.
The shower drain is ten feet from the exterior wall. My bedroom is another ten feet from the bathroom.
The water was making a 90 degree turn when it it the bathroom wall.
This is the last place you would suspect that the water was coming from.
Thank God that my visiting son took a forty minute shower that last day!
That's how I found the source.
@@BrianHassett-ih3jp wow that’s a fun one, glad you found it!
Good stuff !
Just subscribed! Love ur videos! :)
Does the rubber gasket need to at the same height as the pipe? I assume the gasket should be the same height or below so it can compress down without squeezing out between the pip and the inner ring? I'm replacing my drain and am wondering how much I should adjust the height of the pipe to get the proper seal.
@@seldon_yuan the gasket should go slightly below the top of the pipe with the beveled side up so that the nut can compress it.
is there a standard strainer size? cuz i actually need to replace the one for the downstairs shower, it technically hasnt had one for some time due to rusting out because of well water so it leaks quite a bit into the crawl space as there isnt a strainer.
Yes, the standard size (in the US anyway) is 4-1/4” in diameter on top and then the pipe size is 2”. I have a link in the video’s description of the one I used if you are interested!
@@andy_plumbs Thanks
Nice job. Why did you install the rubber ring bevel side up?
Thanks! I installed it that way so that the gasket set screw compresses it against the pipe and forms a seal. It’s the way the instructions say to install it.
nice but what if you a have a slab floor with no access from bottom??
@@smaktalker use a Wingtite shower drain
First if original shower installer had realized the drain was directly over a joist, why didn't they just cut the joist and make a header to save the integrity of the framing. Instead they ruined a good joist and made for a terrible trap installation. Second, you are a very patient man. I hope you get paid well.
Yep, I have no idea what original installer was thinking. All I can do is make the best of it. And thank you, I have learned over the years that having patience is one of the most important traits to have in this trade.
Where can I find that little flat tool to remove drain?
@@mbb4302 www.premierindustrialcorp.com/product-p/d40006.htm
@@mbb4302 they also come with most no caulk drains
Silicone doesn't need to dry before test?
@@thomasryan5681 Nope. I’ve always tested right away and never had any issues.
@@andy_plumbs Thanks. The underside gasket must be key.
Is there any level of worthwhile repair to be made purely from above in this situation? I recognize that the way you did it is the right way, but if I don't want to cut away the ceiling below, is it still worth trying to just replace that rubber gasket?
Yes, this repair can be made from above by using a Wingtite shower drain. If you Google it you will find videos son how to install them.
good job
How long did you let the silicone dry before testing? Also do you prefer the solvent weld type drain or the one you used in the video? Great job by the way.
@@jeffmartinez7724 thanks! I use 100% silicone on my drains and always test almost immediately after. I’ve never had any issues doing it this way. Also, I prefer the solvent weld drains to these style as there is typically less parts to fail.
Also a glue strainer is the better option
My shower drain cover needs to be removed so I can clean out the hair and gunk. There are no screws, I can't pry it up and it won't twist up. Any advice on how to get the thing off?
It is hard to say without seeing it. If it looks anything like the one in this video it should just pry up.
@@andy_plumbs Thank you so much! It does look like the one in your video. God bless you Sir! 👍
Is it ok to put the water on the silicone so soon? Most say to wait 24 hours? Maybe for a test it's ok? Then tell customer to wait 24-36 hours
@@elkskiutah8204 most if not all silicone manufacturers have a cure time on their label. With that said, I have always run water immediately after and have never had a leak.
@@andy_plumbs good to hear... Customer wanted to use his shower 4 hours after I finished, its jsut the very edge of the silicone that's exposed and the rest can cure slowly for the full 7 day cure as specified for Dow 735
Boy do I feel for this guy! Does it get any worse than this mess
Awesome
Whoever did that mess before you saved the day should be ashamed of themselves.
Should've talked owner into lowering trap so it wouldn't be a S Trap
Stuff a rag in the drain fill the pan.
Thanks for the info. Plumbing still sucks though, just sayin. 😆