Can I Lead Rope Solo 5.12?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- I thought I’d push my comfort on LRS climbing a old project of mine. I knew I could climb it with a belayer but was curious if it had my system dialed well enough to get it LRS. I took some falls and learned a few things.
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Do you ever use something to prevent backfeeding? Bands of elastic or something? Looks as if during the long fall it caused some slack.
I tie slip knots on the draws when I can. I want to try avant’s little rubber pieces.
Can you not use a tree or a rock at the base to build your initial anchor versus fiddling with so much on route?
That is the ideal way to do it. But sometimes the first 2 bolts is the only option.
I love the content you make, this is my favorite climbing channel - especially for lead soloing.
That’s Awsome to hear. Thanks so much I’ll keep them coming.
Watching your rope solo progression has been incredible! Congrats on the 12 send! Hope to catch you around NC sometime, keep crushing! 🙌
In the UK trees are always in, routes get re-graded as the trees snap! I was climbing near some Americans in Boux in France and I yarded up on a nearby branch, they all called cheat. On the lower I tried it without the tree and it was do-able at the grade, so I guess in France trees are out maybe.
Great content, great channel. Stay safe. Love from the UK.
Ha trees are out in my book too. As a Dutch climber I have to do with French/Belgian/German ethics.
This is the only route I have come across where the tree is on. Without it you would have to bump the grade up a good bit.
Danger #4 climbing with a wedding ring.. haha
I took a big whipper by accidentally clipping the incorrect side of the rope while pumped.. won’t LRS on anything even moderately difficult now…
That ring better rip, it’s only silicone. How bad was it when you clipped the wrong side?
could a Grigri have a 2-3 inch clear plastic hose attached to it to feed the rope in a consistent direction regardless of body positioning.
... why not just clove hitch the second bolt...
I struggled to explain correctly in the video but if I clove to the second bolt than I lose all the elasticity in the rope between bolts 1-2. With the way I did it the rope between bolts 1-2 can still stretch and absorb more effectively lowering the force on everything. The knot below the second bolt creates a redundant anchor. Redundant not equalized.
Nice video! Really like your anchor setup and cleaning method. Which route was that?
Ohh, nvm, you said the name at the beginning!
Le grigri est une belle invention tres pratique. Avant lui on faisait même méthode avec un noeud autoblocant type prussik.
I noticed the "grabbing above the grigri" issue, but didn't think much of the other two until you called them out, so I appreciate the discussion.
Would you say that you should always keep the minimum slack out to make the next moves, or is it good to have more slack out if you're not worried about hitting a ledge since you give yourself a "softer catch" that way?
You don't get a softer catch by falling further unless you have a dynamic belay (eg the extra slack allows a human belayer time to jump). For LRS you want as little slack as possible. To get a softer catch use a tree belay where possible, so that you have more rope dynamically part of the system (reduced fall factor), or use a bungee draw.
I use a ground anchor whenever possible for this reason.
Less slack is best to help lower the factor of the fall. Although the gri gri kinda just lets as much or as little slack out as it wants unless you keep an eye on it. I didn’t really pay attention to how much slack I had out as I was more focused on the climbing than the belay.
Another great video! Very well done.
Great video Daniel! I have a question about falling. How did you fell right after you fell? stress, axienty or maybe motivated to try again? Personally I often feel discouraged and reluctant to be on the wall...
Defanitly motivated to try again. I knew I was close. Almost all my anxiety disappeared after the big fall. I was pleasantly surprised it wasn’t nearly as hard of a catch as I expected with a static anchor opposed to a belayer.
no chaulk is crazy
Great video. When you reached the top and have cliped in your personal anchor, how did you then manage to get down without loosing any of your gear? On a normal lead after securing myself I would just untie my figure 8 and put it though the top ancor or bolts and tie myself in again. But here you are in the middle of the rope so do you do the same or what do you do?
I pull up the tail of the rope. Feed it through the rings and pull until all the slack is gone between the rings and my bottom anchor. I than move my gri gri over to the other side and rappel cleaning all the draws. Once I reach the bottom anchor I clean as I did in the end of the video.
Love your channel
Thanks so much. I’ve actually adjusted my whole system for the better because of the feedback I have received from my videos.
Quick links are a good call, but having done LRS with moddes and unmodded grigris for years, I haven't used a grigri since the Eddy came out, so much cleaner.
Happy to hear someone else likes the quick links.
When shock loaded on lead I have seen gri gri cut the sheath of a rope, climber beware. Someone is going to get hurt here
Where can I find an example of that happening? I’ve only seen them fail on hownot2 at 7kn ish. And even than the rope slipped if I remember correctly.
It happened to me, the sheath melts and cuts, I rope soloed for decades, i was given a gri gri when they first came out, to test. I had a big fall, only happened once! Everything you did looked very awkward even the clips, I first started using prussicks and a gibbs ascender....climbing with a partner is far safer, please take care and smooth out your techniques...remember there is little dynamic effect, the rope takes a big hit in a fall as does the protection. ONWARDS AND UPWARDS
It looks good to me what you're doing. Maybe the pinch will be better than the grigri. I am using the El Mudo and got the system dialled in. Feels more secure than a grigri but it takes a while to get it work smoothly. Using an pretzl oxan instead of a cord. Your anchoring is good and fully redundant. Don't see how it could snap. Looking forward to more videos.
@@MS-fg8qodoes the el mudu catch inverted falls?
@@PitsToPeaks Not by itself but there is a bomber way to back it up.
It's probably better to make a bigger loop on the butterfly and clip it in to the second quickdraw.
The problem with that is I don’t get the benefit of rope stretch and a lower factor fall onto the second bolt.
Now you have ~10cm.(between the knot and the biner) rope stretch, if you tie the knot 60cm. down(with 60cm loop) and clip it in the 2nd bolt you will have 60cm stretch. This would also prevent the rope from sliding down and forming cross load your anchor biner. Take a personal tether(kong slyde, rock empire pip, edelrid switch adjust) to secure yourself to the bolt while tying the knot.
Be safe!
Great idea! I'm stealing that@@12gore63
Have you considered pre-caching your cache loop instead of the continuous cache? Brent Barghahn describes the details on his website.
I’ve been wanting to try that. But I’ve changed a lot recently and I only wanted to change 1 thing at a time.
Try Yann's method (TH-cam, Yann Camus', Fabian Buhl had it right) for pre-caching. It is really good. There is another video of him on how to tie slipknots to prevent back feeding. Really worth watching!
Awesome video! Love the way you talk through your process, very educational. Also love the safety check, very cool
I find the verbal talk through safety check to be the best way of actually doing it and catching problems. When I belay someone with a gri gri I always tug climbers end and verbally say climbers end locks. Really messes me up when I use an atc that one time a year.
I kept getting short roped until I was annoyed enough to modify my grigri slightly to make it sit up vertically and have it tied into a chest harness. Drilled 2 holes in the bottom plastic portion and threaded a thin tie in. See Herbert Luethi's lead rope solo video for setup. Now it's perfectly smooth self belaying. Cheers.
Yeah I didn’t fully understand how the chest harness configuration helped until I came across Brent’s with avants setup. I’m going to give that a try.
This is a crazy video! I was tarified and excited to get climbing.
This may be a silly question but when cleaning the last two bolts and you clipped in to the alpine how were you able to have enough slack to keep lowering? I figured if your tether is connected to your harness and the other end to the alpine wouldn’t it limit the distance you can rappel and get taught before making it to the last anchor?
Think of it like when someone lowers you on top rope. Only difference is I’m connected a few feet off the end and I am the one adding slack through the anchors instead of a friend. I hope that clears it up.
Hello ! Very good video. One of the best recordings I have seen on TH-cam to understand the LRS with Grigri. It's a shame your videos are not translated into Spanish. I have doubts about the security backup system you use. Knots? I would like you to make a video tutorial on the Solo system with GRIGRI step by step. Thank you and greetings.
I am planning on doing a video on my system soon. I have a few things I want to try and other things I want to make sure work optimally. Soon as I do that I will post a video details how I do everything. I trust the knots completely. All they have to do is add a little bit of resistance so the gri gri locks down.
@@PitsToPeaks Thank you very much for clarifying my doubts about knots. I am very happy to know that you plan to make a video explaining your solo climbing system with the GRIGRI. I can't wait to see it. I'm sure you will explain it with good images that speak more than words. Waiting...Thank you
@@PitsToPeaks 😊👌🏻❤️