I was riding an older bike with a granny ring and didn't think I would be happy with just the one chainring, but decided to give it a try. I am very happy with my new SRAM Apex 1 x 11 setup. I have all the power I need for climbs here in Kentucky, and I'm faster on the flats.
Thank you, converted my Ridley X-Fire over to the SRAM 1X and this helped tremendously. Getting ready to put a larger cassette on her to get me over some of the bigger hills for gravel riding and now that I know how to set that “B” screw gap it’ll be that much more easier…..Rob K
I find the easiest way to set the b screw is where it barely clears shifting from the 2nd largest cog to the largest cog. That way you know it can make every shift up the cassette and it will be optimized for shifting down the cassette as well.
Sram Rival 1 gears are the only gears to ever have me in tears after decades of riding! They just don't seem to work well, every cyclocross race i enter i end up with crap gear changing. I've had them sorted by bike shops and by myself yet nothing keeps them right for more than one ride? I can't afford to swap it all out for Shimano so here's to unhappy riding and an even more unhappy lockdown....😢
Hmm my gears won't change, wonder if it's the barrel adjuster, H screw, L screw or B screw? Or wait could it be the barrel adjuster needs to be turned the other way? No wait it's the B screw needs to go the other way! No!... Hang on, it's the H screw needs to turn the other way, nope L screw...no wait maybe the B screw goes this way, whilst L screw goes the other? No that can't be right, put the barrel adjuster back where it was but this time just turn the H screw etc etc So many mind bending options! This vid helped clear them up!
I am a bit confused regarding the chain size. He says 4 extra links including the powerlock. I have a Sram Apex 1 with 11-42 cassette and in the manual and other tutorials (park tool) they say that you should add 4 links and then add the powerlock?
If you guys could do some bike, components, buying advice videos etc on a range of price points that would be great, but instead of doing it all individually, do it so all of you review the same product to get a comprehensive range of opinions. It would really help me personally and I'm sure a few other people would find it informative and useful. Thanks :)
Couple of rookie questions: 1. The setting of the barrel adjuster from the start? 2. Should i pull the cable before anchoring it or should it be slack ? 3. Have a Sram Rival 1 (long cage). After shifting down to the smallest cog, tapping the lever again makes it click, nothing happens with the pulley but the cable goes really slack. Is it from this position i should start the adjustment? Kinda feels like a Natural shift position and just wondering if that is actually the first (smallest cog) position or if something is off/wrong?
Hi Ludwig, 1. Usually, when attaching the shifter cable to the rear derailleur, the cable is quite loose and needs to be tightened with the barrel adjuster. Moving it almost all the way in beforehand ensures that you have plenty of room for tightening the cable. 2. Pull it as hard as you can by hand. Having too much slack results in you not being able to tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster. 3. Put your barrel adjuster all the way in. Shift into the hardest gear/smallest cog. In your case: click once more for getting the shifter cable to a slack position. Detach the shifter cable from the rear derailleur, pull it so there is only minimal slack. Firmly attach the shifter cable to the rear derailleur, continue to put some tension on the cable with the barrel adjuster.
I can't figure out how I came to see a video about setting up 1x on a road bike, but the bike doesn't look like a road bike. Does this work on an ordinary road bike with a 130mm OLD? I went to SRAM's site and every time I tried to investigate 1x11 road, I found myself transferred into the MTB section.
This bike was really easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
@GCN - Hmm.. trying to mount a Rotor QCX1 44t chainring to replace the stock 40t that came with the bike (Giant TCX Advanced SX). Wondering if I need to add links to the chain... :|
I have a rival 1shifter with an 11 speed rear cog on a brand new bike. All of my gears work great except the big gears 9 and 10, which make noise when I pedal hard. I havn't been able to figure out an adjustment that fixes this. Any advice?
eltigroman that's a hard question to answer, a lot depends on your history of training and how long the race is that you're trying to peak for. However, it's worth noting that doing intervals and higher intensity riding throughout the entire season is quite a good idea - modern thinking is that variability of training year round is important.
Im currently using sram apex1 11 speed for my gravel bike and planning to use fsa 2x (50-36) crank with a shimano sora sti and shimani sora fd..... will this work?
When I tried it, it wouldn't work because the 1x rear derailleur puts too much tension on the chain and I couldn't shift from the small chain ring to the big chain ring. You'd have to use a 2x rear derailleur.
Luke Hattersley we don't have confirmation that they will, but given that TT riders are on SRAM's list of people that the 1x group set will suit, we'd imagine they will.
Hi. sram apex 1x11 back shift would be a problem. the biggest gear to roll when you want to switch to a smaller gear, the gearbox does not move. only if I stop the roll and start to drive again. What could be the problem? doing the same with a new cable.
4 extra links on the chain seems a lot vs 2 on say a shimano road bike with FD - any reason why? Even using that formula I always also run it through the RD to check the tension, 2 seems enough. And fine on rival wifli.
J B it is because usually don't use big to big gears; with 1x, however, you are always in the big ring so you are going to be using big to big gear which puts extra stress on the derailleur.
Does this "add 4 link sizing" apply to of all SRAM 1x or only those with a clutch to help keep tension? I'm planning 1x with a standard Force 22 RD, and 44x28 would be my big/big. No clutch on the Force. Just wondering if there will be too much slack when on 44x11....
aeshir This has been better answered elsewhere in the comments but a lot of crosschaining is removed by having the chainring sit inbetween the points where the two chainrings would sit on a double.
The the shifters have the dummy shift, not derailleur. Shimano shifters have it too, to a certain degree. It helps get the chain up onto the tallest cog on cassette or big chainring.
***** ahh now I get it , thanks vax :) , I was a tad confused as to how it works as opposed to big big / small small configurations on a normal set up ( it cost me a few quid the last time I went big big :P )
To be honest, a single chainring could suit quite a few road riders but the wide range block wouldn't. Can you please ask SRAM if they will one day release a 20 speed (close ratio) hub gear so we can do away with derailleurs all together ? That would be a real technological break through.
Imagine riding that bike as a hire bike, going to hit the rear brake and flying over the bars, especially with hydro discs. Get them the right way round!
the same logic applies to overseas visitors hiring bikes in the UK. i used to be a bike tech and many brands sold here are delivered by the supplier as LH front but you'll never know because they have to be swapped during the PDI to comply with UK regs. there's nothing to stop anyone switching them back once they're outside the shop. the common reasoning is that it's safer to be covering the rear brake while indicating to turn across traffic. as most of the world drives on the right then the RH covers the rear brake while your left arm indicates your intention of turning but it's vice versa for the UK because we drive on the left. there is no correct or incorrect method but better brake control and modulating the levers rather than slamming them on is always best practice. i never trust hire bike brakes anyway regardless of setup :)
Thumbs down, YOU SPENT ZERO TIME talking about the in-and out width placement of the spindle/chainring crank assembly in relation to the shell/frame. What is it on a typical 73mm shell? is it 100mm, is it 130mm, is it 120mm we don't know because you don't bother to tell us. I purchased your group SRAM NX EAGLE DUB GROUP SET and it came without instructions for this issue (??) why? I , like many have a PF30 bottom bracket and need spacers to install your much longer spindle, and on which side of the shell we install said spacers gives us a variety of width locations for the crank. WHY NOT TELL US HOW MANY MM IT NEEDS TO BE FROM THE SHELL AND END IT ?! Jesus, is that so hard? it's all we would need to locate it and have it perfectly aligned with the rear cassette.
Thanks for this clip - but the b-gap explanation is pretty vague. And b-gap adjustment is crucial to sram 1x.
Cool mechanic and first GCN Sram spot that didn't feel like an advert.
I was riding an older bike with a granny ring and didn't think I would be happy with just the one chainring, but decided to give it a try. I am very happy with my new SRAM Apex 1 x 11 setup. I have all the power I need for climbs here in Kentucky, and I'm faster on the flats.
Great video. I changed from a 42t to 38t chainring and shifting was very clunky. Followed the video and shifting sweetly in minutes. 👏👏👏
Just got a SRAM 1x. Thanks for the tips!
Thank you, converted my Ridley X-Fire over to the SRAM 1X and this helped tremendously. Getting ready to put a larger cassette on her to get me over some of the bigger hills for gravel riding and now that I know how to set that “B” screw gap it’ll be that much more easier…..Rob K
Fixed it!😎 With the help of your straight to the point video. Perfect thank you 😊
I'm amazed with myself. Thanks to this video I just dialed in my Apex 1 DR in about 3 minutes (plus the time watching this video twice.) THANK YOU
Best sram x11 adjust mówię, thanks
Slim, QUIET, works great. I wanted modern and out of the way. This is it!
I think GCN should have him doing all their mechanical videos
That 42 tooth cog looks positively huge! I wouldn't mind trying a 1x setup on my commuter bike.
I just put a 11-52 cassette on my gravel bike lol.
I find the easiest way to set the b screw is where it barely clears shifting from the 2nd largest cog to the largest cog. That way you know it can make every shift up the cassette and it will be optimized for shifting down the cassette as well.
Yep
Anyone else think the SRAM rep looks like Rutledge Wood from Top Gear USA!? Spot on doppelganger...
Haha yea i was thinking the same thing
First thought too!!
Holy crap!
I thought it was him at first.
you watch Top Gear USA? lolll
Damn you for making me want a 1x road bike!
This is such a perfect piece of instruction. Thank you!
Great video guys! Made setting up my bike very simple. Thanks!
Sram Rival 1 gears are the only gears to ever have me in tears after decades of riding! They just don't seem to work well, every cyclocross race i enter i end up with crap gear changing. I've had them sorted by bike shops and by myself yet nothing keeps them right for more than one ride? I can't afford to swap it all out for Shimano so here's to unhappy riding and an even more unhappy lockdown....😢
Hmm my gears won't change, wonder if it's the barrel adjuster, H screw, L screw or B screw? Or wait could it be the barrel adjuster needs to be turned the other way? No wait it's the B screw needs to go the other way! No!... Hang on, it's the H screw needs to turn the other way, nope L screw...no wait maybe the B screw goes this way, whilst L screw goes the other?
No that can't be right, put the barrel adjuster back where it was but this time just turn the H screw etc etc
So many mind bending options! This vid helped clear them up!
I am a bit confused regarding the chain size. He says 4 extra links including the powerlock. I have a Sram Apex 1 with 11-42 cassette and in the manual and other tutorials (park tool) they say that you should add 4 links and then add the powerlock?
Many people don´t understand what 4 links overlap means. Too bad that guy covers it with his hands all the time...
th-cam.com/video/ZUybJs7uork/w-d-xo.html
Best demo of 4 link overlap that I can find
If you guys could do some bike, components, buying advice videos etc on a range of price points that would be great, but instead of doing it all individually, do it so all of you review the same product to get a comprehensive range of opinions. It would really help me personally and I'm sure a few other people would find it informative and useful. Thanks :)
Perfect. My derailleur cable came loose and well.. just what I needed to get things working again
How can he do that wearing those gloves? Impressive.
Interesting. I've owned both versions of the SRAM Red front derailleurs and nigher has ever worked flawlessly.
Couple of rookie questions:
1. The setting of the barrel adjuster from the start?
2. Should i pull the cable before anchoring it or should it be slack ?
3. Have a Sram Rival 1 (long cage). After shifting down to the smallest cog, tapping the lever again makes it click, nothing happens with the pulley but the cable goes really slack. Is it from this position i should start the adjustment?
Kinda feels like a Natural shift position and just wondering if that is actually the first (smallest cog) position or if something is off/wrong?
Hi Ludwig,
1. Usually, when attaching the shifter cable to the rear derailleur, the cable is quite loose and needs to be tightened with the barrel adjuster. Moving it almost all the way in beforehand ensures that you have plenty of room for tightening the cable.
2. Pull it as hard as you can by hand. Having too much slack results in you not being able to tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster.
3. Put your barrel adjuster all the way in. Shift into the hardest gear/smallest cog. In your case: click once more for getting the shifter cable to a slack position. Detach the shifter cable from the rear derailleur, pull it so there is only minimal slack. Firmly attach the shifter cable to the rear derailleur, continue to put some tension on the cable with the barrel adjuster.
excellent instructions!
Could you make that outer cable housing any longer
I can't figure out how I came to see a video about setting up 1x on a road bike, but the bike doesn't look like a road bike. Does this work on an ordinary road bike with a 130mm OLD? I went to SRAM's site and every time I tried to investigate 1x11 road, I found myself transferred into the MTB section.
I have a Sram Force 22 my entire drivetrain needs replacing can I convert the force to 1x or should I keep 2x?
Awesome! Thanks for posting this!
If my pinch bolt has the groove for the cable to sit in, does that mean my cable needs to go in the port in a similar fashion? It's a Force der.
I have a 10-33 rear 12 speed, what front chain ring tooth mimics 2x most?
hmm many millimetres does the b gap need to be on the rival 1 long cage with a 11-42 cassette?
This bike was really easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.
Do you need to do any adjustments on the shifter on the drop bars.
And now try that and go nuts trying to be an expert!
What exactly is a clutch and how does it work?
A spring lol. It puts more tension on the chain than a 2x rd.
@GCN - Hmm.. trying to mount a Rotor QCX1 44t chainring to replace the stock 40t that came with the bike (Giant TCX Advanced SX). Wondering if I need to add links to the chain... :|
Hi GCN. Any news from SRAM on arrival date in UK of Force 1 & Rival 1 and expected RRP?
Is 1by the future of road riding configs?
I have a rival 1shifter with an 11 speed rear cog on a brand new bike. All of my gears work great except the big gears 9 and 10, which make noise when I pedal hard. I havn't been able to figure out an adjustment that fixes this. Any advice?
I just had a rival shifter replaced, similar troubles, might be that or possibly cable sticking
Do 1x have any wear characteristics that are different than say a 3x?
Thank you guys for this video, very helpful!
You're welcome
Hi gcn,
I'd like to "peek" (be at my best) in the first week of july. When should i start doing intervals and with wich intensity?
eltigroman that's a hard question to answer, a lot depends on your history of training and how long the race is that you're trying to peak for. However, it's worth noting that doing intervals and higher intensity riding throughout the entire season is quite a good idea - modern thinking is that variability of training year round is important.
Can I combine my Shimano Ultegra cassette and derailleur with Sram Rival 1x crank?
Do I need a special cassette for my road bike? I'm using a sram cassette off my mountain bike and the shifting isnt great
Im currently using sram apex1 11 speed for my gravel bike and planning to use fsa 2x (50-36) crank with a shimano sora sti and shimani sora fd..... will this work?
When I tried it, it wouldn't work because the 1x rear derailleur puts too much tension on the chain and I couldn't shift from the small chain ring to the big chain ring. You'd have to use a 2x rear derailleur.
What about converting to 1x11 road with a standard front crank/chain ring? Chain line alignment?
Geeios1 works but not ideal
Fancy setting my TT rig up with 1x. Will the 54t ring come in an aero version?
Luke Hattersley we don't have confirmation that they will, but given that TT riders are on SRAM's list of people that the 1x group set will suit, we'd imagine they will.
Hi.
sram apex 1x11 back shift would be a problem. the biggest gear to roll when you want to switch to a smaller gear, the gearbox does not move. only if I stop the roll and start to drive again. What could be the problem? doing the same with a new cable.
Was it the b limit screw?
why is that outer cable so long
4 extra links on the chain seems a lot vs 2 on say a shimano road bike with FD - any reason why? Even using that formula I always also run it through the RD to check the tension, 2 seems enough. And fine on rival wifli.
J B it is because usually don't use big to big gears; with 1x, however, you are always in the big ring so you are going to be using big to big gear which puts extra stress on the derailleur.
Does this "add 4 link sizing" apply to of all SRAM 1x or only those with a clutch to help keep tension? I'm planning 1x with a standard Force 22 RD, and 44x28 would be my big/big. No clutch on the Force. Just wondering if there will be too much slack when on 44x11....
so with 11 cogs on the back and just one on the front, how does this not constantly have all the regular issues that come with crosschaining?
aeshir This has been better answered elsewhere in the comments but a lot of crosschaining is removed by having the chainring sit inbetween the points where the two chainrings would sit on a double.
GCN are you recording 60 FPS? now
That's a Specialized AWOL touring bike!
Do all Sram derailleurs have a dummy shift?
Josh Smart I believe all their road derailleurs do.
Thankyou
The the shifters have the dummy shift, not derailleur. Shimano shifters have it too, to a certain degree. It helps get the chain up onto the tallest cog on cassette or big chainring.
cool
does the 1x use a special chain ?, just wondering about chain suck , nice explanatory vid btw ;)
David Culshaw Force 1 uses the same chain as Force 22. But the chainrings themselves are radically different than 2x.
***** thanks Koy ;)
***** ahh now I get it , thanks vax :) , I was a tad confused as to how it works as opposed to big big / small small configurations on a normal set up ( it cost me a few quid the last time I went big big :P )
What bike is that?
Specialized AWOL touring bike.
Hi gcn
Hei
Dylanc Gaming Hey Dylanc.
I just cleaned my bike and now my sram 1x doesn't sound good. I'm crap at this stuff
To be honest, a single chainring could suit quite a few road riders but the wide range block wouldn't. Can you please ask SRAM if they will one day release a 20 speed (close ratio) hub gear so we can do away with derailleurs all together ? That would be a real technological break through.
Frustrated. How to route cable through shifter non Rival 1X
Imagine riding that bike as a hire bike, going to hit the rear brake and flying over the bars, especially with hydro discs. Get them the right way round!
This is the right way round.
the same logic applies to overseas visitors hiring bikes in the UK. i used to be a bike tech and many brands sold here are delivered by the supplier as LH front but you'll never know because they have to be swapped during the PDI to comply with UK regs. there's nothing to stop anyone switching them back once they're outside the shop.
the common reasoning is that it's safer to be covering the rear brake while indicating to turn across traffic. as most of the world drives on the right then the RH covers the rear brake while your left arm indicates your intention of turning but it's vice versa for the UK because we drive on the left.
there is no correct or incorrect method but better brake control and modulating the levers rather than slamming them on is always best practice. i never trust hire bike brakes anyway regardless of setup :)
hyprfocal what’s a bike tech
drool* awol comp drool*
this bike is not for me !
come on Shimano! SRAM is beating you every single time! T.T
Thumbs down, YOU SPENT ZERO TIME talking about the in-and out width placement of the spindle/chainring crank assembly in relation to the shell/frame. What is it on a typical 73mm shell? is it 100mm, is it 130mm, is it 120mm we don't know because you don't bother to tell us. I purchased your group SRAM NX EAGLE DUB GROUP SET and it came without instructions for this issue (??) why? I , like many have a PF30 bottom bracket and need spacers to install your much longer spindle, and on which side of the shell we install said spacers gives us a variety of width locations for the crank. WHY NOT TELL US HOW MANY MM IT NEEDS TO BE FROM THE SHELL AND END IT ?! Jesus, is that so hard? it's all we would need to locate it and have it perfectly aligned with the rear cassette.
Fifth comment and 39th liker