Another very helpful video and much appreciated! Adam, can I ask your thoughts on the oil-less air filter that’s recently been put on the market? Ultimately your thoughts on it, and in comparison to the traditional oiled filters? Thanks!
Hey I got a question I think the answer would be no but maybe for some about pistons and sleeves… I noticed the sleeves are different on engines but can any .21 piston and sleeve fit in any .21 engine???? Like in the car world say a 2.0l is just an 85mm piston like a Honda 2.0 and a Mitsubishi 2.0 can both run the same 85mm piston.Is it the same in the rc world?
Paper filters do not work well in off-road applications. The paper doesn't do a good job of catching the fine dust, letting some of it through into the engine. I come from the dirt bike world, and the same thing applies there as well. a quality, properly oiled foam filter element will always catch more dirt and perform better than paper filters in off-road applications.
Because of lack of knowledge I have some questions. What causes carbon build up on the top of the piston. Is it glow plug not hot enough or a bad fuel. An last but not least are you happy with the flash point fuel???? Please help if you will.
The carbon build up is completely normal and a good sign that there is good lubrication. Some fuels that use a 100% synthetic oil package will usually have less carbon build up than fuels with castor. The synthetic oil packages are good for racing since they provide a very crisp, clean power band but oil packages with some castor oil offer better lubrication. I personally have not run the flashpoint fuel but I do run torco (both 20% and 30%) which has a full synthetic oil package and I’m very satisfied with the power that it makes, the efficiency of the engine, and its lubrication
Carbon buildup is usually caused from Castro oil in that particular blend of fuel. If you’re using a fuel that is a full synthetic blend like flashpoint you will not have carbon buildup.
Hi Adam so i was wondering about clearing out any left over fuel in the engine ready for storage so is it right to say that you don’t want to burn off any fuel thats left in the engine just after running it but is it okay to do so when its cooled off a bit because I sometimes worry that it may start to rust up if left to long with fuel still in the engine.
hell im still trying to get my little cxh .18 small block to idle . it wont idle . and the engine is broke in too , i don't know if its the 20% nitro or what . maybe i need to try 25% or 30% nitro . to get a good idle . and the tuning im not good with ether . i wish i can get it to idle rite , because its a hsp monster truck i have . runs good when acell but stalls or dies all the time when i stop it , because it will not idle rite.
@@AdamDrake how do you apply the after run? Thru the glowplug, fuel input at the carb or the exhaust? I always felt that doing it by thru the glowplug or removing the air filter you have a risk of getting dirty into the engine
Hi Adam. Just wondering about your comments of running the engine dry. I've seen on many threads and most guys at the track saying it's better to idle the engine dry after a day of racing or practice because the nitro attracts moisture? As well as that what are you thoughts on *always* preheating the engine instead of starting cold after a run in and couple of races
I don't run my engine dry with Flash Point. I just stop the engine and use after run oil. It's always a good idea to preheat the engine and it's most important when the engine is new.
@@AdamDrake - so what do you do with the remaining small amount of fuel in the lines...given that the car will sit for a few months? Do you just remove the fuel lines and blow it out? Thank you sir! I love your videos!
The more humidity, the more difficult it will be. In that case you may want to remove the backplate and make sure everything is oiled well after each race day.
I must be the last person to learn that running your engine out of fuel damages it. I guess I figured that since fuel mileage is commonly a high priority for even club-level racers, then that'd mean they must occasionally time their tanks, meaning that at the very least the tank gets ran dry to obtain that time for the current tune / track conditions / etc. I've been running all my engines dry for years but the longest I've had a piston/sleeve last (while still behaving ok) is a little over 3 gallons. Even started preheating to 200F every single run but no difference. Hopefully if I stop running it out of fuel, I can start getting 5-10 gallons out of a piston/sleeve.
What’s the difference between your engine and your wife’s engine, is it just the head color? I want to order one but don’t know if one is better then the other.
I have a couple of questions about running the engine outta fuel at the end of the day ; Isn’t dependent on the oil package contained in the fuel ? Also , since the methanol is hydroscopic ( water magnet ) wouldn’t you want to get all that out of the engine to prevent the internal components from rusting ? Just asking .
Just follow your manual that comes with the engine. People have there own preference, but if your doubt in any refer to the manual. I can't say that enough.
myself and some other people also burn all the fuel out the engine for that reason. but the big difference is we do it once at the end of the day, and just with the engine at idle. so there is no real load on the engine. the problem with running the engine empty on track is that these people do it probably more than once a day, the engine is at high temperature, heavy load. it is like running your engine lean for a lap till it dies. and i see a lot of people do this severel times a day during a practice day. so you run your engine too lean several times per day und full load. that´s a whole different thing than just burning some leftover fuel while idle at the end of a day.
I've actually tried this and let my engine sit for about 10 years. Let me tell you rust built up, discolor and it was very hard to turn the crank. I was using byrons 20%. Not good at all. Even taking advice from the pros sometimes can be misleading. Like I said follow the manual. If it tells you to burp the engine when done then do it. No questions asked.
@@purpledonatello i agree. here in austria in the middle of europe offseason is rather long. it is not that rare to see bad main bearings at the first spring practice with people who dont care to run them empty and oil them before winter storage
you are so rad! appreciate the videos and solid help
Happy to help!
Very informative information 👍 👌
Awesome video my man very impressive info on the extending the life of a nitro engine
Thanks
Great Info Adam. I'm already on it.
Thanks again for those tips 👍😎
My pleasure!
Happy Saturday Adam Drake!
Thank you. Hope all is well.
Another very helpful video and much appreciated! Adam, can I ask your thoughts on the oil-less air filter that’s recently been put on the market? Ultimately your thoughts on it, and in comparison to the traditional oiled filters? Thanks!
I haven't tested them myself, but plan to in the future.
Hi Adam, so you recommend using outerwear on the filter?
Smash that 👍 button for the champ 🏆
Thank you!
Hey I got a question I think the answer would be no but maybe for some about pistons and sleeves… I noticed the sleeves are different on engines but can any .21 piston and sleeve fit in any .21 engine???? Like in the car world say a 2.0l is just an 85mm piston like a Honda 2.0 and a Mitsubishi 2.0 can both run the same 85mm piston.Is it the same in the rc world?
Hey Adam. What are your thoughts on the "new" paper style filters over foam filters. I am sure you seen some of them at dnc
Paper filters do not work well in off-road applications. The paper doesn't do a good job of catching the fine dust, letting some of it through into the engine. I come from the dirt bike world, and the same thing applies there as well. a quality, properly oiled foam filter element will always catch more dirt and perform better than paper filters in off-road applications.
@@evil14life I is exactly NOT a paper filter from klinikrc!
I haven't tested them myself, but plan to in the future.
REPLY
It was sure nice seeing you at dnc
You too!
@@AdamDrake hope to see you at mugen challenge this year
Because of lack of knowledge I have some questions. What causes carbon build up on the top of the piston. Is it glow plug not hot enough or a bad fuel. An last but not least are you happy with the flash point fuel???? Please help if you will.
The carbon build up is completely normal and a good sign that there is good lubrication. Some fuels that use a 100% synthetic oil package will usually have less carbon build up than fuels with castor. The synthetic oil packages are good for racing since they provide a very crisp, clean power band but oil packages with some castor oil offer better lubrication. I personally have not run the flashpoint fuel but I do run torco (both 20% and 30%) which has a full synthetic oil package and I’m very satisfied with the power that it makes, the efficiency of the engine, and its lubrication
Thank you for the information. I kinda know where to head now. An again thank you for your time and effort.
Carbon buildup is usually caused from Castro oil in that particular blend of fuel. If you’re using a fuel that is a full synthetic blend like flashpoint you will not have carbon buildup.
Thank you Adam for the information. I ordered a case of 30% an got it on Friday.
Hi Adam so i was wondering about clearing out any left over fuel in the engine ready for storage so is it right to say that you don’t want to burn off any fuel thats left in the engine just after running it but is it okay to do so when its cooled off a bit because I sometimes worry that it may start to rust up if left to long with fuel still in the engine.
I don’t like or recommend running the engine out of fuel because it basically runs the engine dry which can cause additional wear.
@AdamDrake so.what do you do of you only race one a month and if you miss that date will be the next month after that
Thanks man. What are your thoughts on dry filters that have recently hit the market?
I haven't tested them myself, but plan to in the future.
@@AdamDrake thanks dude
hell im still trying to get my little cxh .18 small block to idle . it wont idle . and the engine is broke in too , i don't know if its the 20% nitro or what . maybe i need to try 25% or 30% nitro . to get a good idle . and the tuning im not good with ether . i wish i can get it to idle rite , because its a hsp monster truck i have . runs good when acell but stalls or dies all the time when i stop it , because it will not idle rite.
I don't have any experience with that engine but I would try resetting the carb to the factory settings.
After a race day aren’t you supposed to run the engine out of fuel before adding after-run oil, or is that bad?
I don't run it out of fuel with Flash Point.
Does a hot glow plug cause excess wear? And how many drops of after run oil to use? Thanks .
No. 6-8 drops.
@@AdamDrake how do you apply the after run? Thru the glowplug, fuel input at the carb or the exhaust? I always felt that doing it by thru the glowplug or removing the air filter you have a risk of getting dirty into the engine
Hi Adam. Just wondering about your comments of running the engine dry. I've seen on many threads and most guys at the track saying it's better to idle the engine dry after a day of racing or practice because the nitro attracts moisture? As well as that what are you thoughts on *always* preheating the engine instead of starting cold after a run in and couple of races
I don't run my engine dry with Flash Point. I just stop the engine and use after run oil. It's always a good idea to preheat the engine and it's most important when the engine is new.
@@AdamDrake - so what do you do with the remaining small amount of fuel in the lines...given that the car will sit for a few months? Do you just remove the fuel lines and blow it out? Thank you sir! I love your videos!
@bharris0128 what did you figure out?
What about if u live in 71% humidity most of the time? If i don’t service my engine after using it the main bearing seems to rust a bit
The more humidity, the more difficult it will be. In that case you may want to remove the backplate and make sure everything is oiled well after each race day.
@@AdamDrake thanks Adam much appreciate
I must be the last person to learn that running your engine out of fuel damages it. I guess I figured that since fuel mileage is commonly a high priority for even club-level racers, then that'd mean they must occasionally time their tanks, meaning that at the very least the tank gets ran dry to obtain that time for the current tune / track conditions / etc. I've been running all my engines dry for years but the longest I've had a piston/sleeve last (while still behaving ok) is a little over 3 gallons. Even started preheating to 200F every single run but no difference. Hopefully if I stop running it out of fuel, I can start getting 5-10 gallons out of a piston/sleeve.
We're always learning new things. :)
I was.told to run it dry that keeping fuel in there is bad and gums up? what do you do with the extra fuel then? just let it be
What’s the difference between your engine and your wife’s engine, is it just the head color? I want to order one but don’t know if one is better then the other.
I have a couple of questions about running the engine outta fuel at the end of the day ;
Isn’t dependent on the oil package contained in the fuel ? Also , since the methanol is hydroscopic ( water magnet ) wouldn’t you want to get all that out of the engine to prevent the internal components from rusting ? Just asking .
Just follow your manual that comes with the engine. People have there own preference, but if your doubt in any refer to the manual. I can't say that enough.
myself and some other people also burn all the fuel out the engine for that reason. but the big difference is we do it once at the end of the day, and just with the engine at idle.
so there is no real load on the engine.
the problem with running the engine empty on track is that these people do it probably more than once a day, the engine is at high temperature, heavy load. it is like running your engine lean for a lap till it dies. and i see a lot of people do this severel times a day during a practice day. so you run your engine too lean several times per day und full load.
that´s a whole different thing than just burning some leftover fuel while idle at the end of a day.
That is my process also just seems contradictory to is all I’m saying and is why I asked
I've actually tried this and let my engine sit for about 10 years. Let me tell you rust built up, discolor and it was very hard to turn the crank. I was using byrons 20%. Not good at all. Even taking advice from the pros sometimes can be misleading. Like I said follow the manual. If it tells you to burp the engine when done then do it. No questions asked.
@@purpledonatello i agree. here in austria in the middle of europe offseason is rather long. it is not that rare to see bad main bearings at the first spring practice with people who dont care to run them empty and oil them before winter storage
Do you service older nitro engines??
Yes sir.