@@GreentopLandscapes it's tough buddy, my hands are sore, dodgy back, bad knees and in pain in morning, take an hour to come round, toughest job on planet after coal miners.
Another thing that's worth a mention (see my other post). When I got that my machine, the cutting wheel was slightly out of alignment. I figure that out by placing a long tile on the bed with the motor off, bringing the wheel down until it is touching the tile at the far end (if the motor was on it would be starting a cut). Then, keeping the cutting wheel in contact with the tile I pull the train towards me right to the other end. The wheel, in contact with the tile, tries to follow a straight line so by the end of the track I can see it's pulling (in my case) to the left because it is slightly out of line. I thought about this for a while and decided to leave it as it is - why? It is only slightly out of line - probably less than 1°. What this will do is make the slot that it is cutting very slightly wider. I think that's a good thing because it's a lot less likely to grab. As we know there's no such thing as a free bacon sani so I'll have to change the cutting blade slightly more often... maybe. Again thinking about it, the cutting wheel might actually last longer because they not constantly near grabbing so it may be that the only cost is very slightly more material waste and that's as close to $0.00 as can be.
Since then I did some experimenting. I was wrong. After aligning the blade correctly with the track cutting is faster, 'cutting wheel grabbing' is reduced, and cutting is more accurate. Bottom line: tune your cutting machine from time to time, it's worth it.
I notice you cut pulling the blade towards you but not on the way back. I have a smaller machine (Raimondi Pikus) than you with a lower horsepower motor. If I cut on the 'pull' and press down too hard it will stall the motor as the tile 'grabs' the blade wheel. However I can push down to my heart's content when cutting away from myself, i.e. the push stroke. If the tile grabs the blade, as I suspect it is doing 100's of times a second, the cutting unit pushes back towards me and releases the blade. This gives me max cutting velocity and it never stalls. BTW I first 5cm or so cut stress cuts right through the material at both ends by plunging the blade at the two extremes first. This gives me a factory like cut, no chips, at 2/3rds the speed of the standard Zoe with the bigger motor.
Aye up John, stew here, well done pal.
Weather kicking hell out of us, it's suppose to be our time now.
I know Stew it’s not fair mate, what can we do
@@GreentopLandscapes it's tough buddy, my hands are sore, dodgy back, bad knees and in pain in morning, take an hour to come round, toughest job on planet after coal miners.
Thanks for video. I know what u mean about rain.i live in Manchester. Doing garden maintenance when raining is not good. Very frustrating
Spot on Dave
Another thing that's worth a mention (see my other post). When I got that my machine, the cutting wheel was slightly out of alignment. I figure that out by placing a long tile on the bed with the motor off, bringing the wheel down until it is touching the tile at the far end (if the motor was on it would be starting a cut). Then, keeping the cutting wheel in contact with the tile I pull the train towards me right to the other end. The wheel, in contact with the tile, tries to follow a straight line so by the end of the track I can see it's pulling (in my case) to the left because it is slightly out of line.
I thought about this for a while and decided to leave it as it is - why? It is only slightly out of line - probably less than 1°. What this will do is make the slot that it is cutting very slightly wider. I think that's a good thing because it's a lot less likely to grab.
As we know there's no such thing as a free bacon sani so I'll have to change the cutting blade slightly more often... maybe. Again thinking about it, the cutting wheel might actually last longer because they not constantly near grabbing so it may be that the only cost is very slightly more material waste and that's as close to $0.00 as can be.
Cheers Keith for the comprehensive comment its appreciated mate great feedback
Since then I did some experimenting. I was wrong. After aligning the blade correctly with the track cutting is faster, 'cutting wheel grabbing' is reduced, and cutting is more accurate.
Bottom line: tune your cutting machine from time to time, it's worth it.
I notice you cut pulling the blade towards you but not on the way back.
I have a smaller machine (Raimondi Pikus) than you with a lower horsepower motor. If I cut on the 'pull' and press down too hard it will stall the motor as the tile 'grabs' the blade wheel. However I can push down to my heart's content when cutting away from myself, i.e. the push stroke. If the tile grabs the blade, as I suspect it is doing 100's of times a second, the cutting unit pushes back towards me and releases the blade. This gives me max cutting velocity and it never stalls.
BTW I first 5cm or so cut stress cuts right through the material at both ends by plunging the blade at the two extremes first. This gives me a factory like cut, no chips, at 2/3rds the speed of the standard Zoe with the bigger motor.
Cheers Keith great feedback mate cheers
Easy 😂 just watching cutting
And weather forecast
Not a tape measure or explanation what shape your cutting
Lots of gear
@@kevinbrannan8347 lmao 🤣