First, i really like your industrial images! Shot a 202 for a couple of decades. Mine hasn't ever produced that "light bar" except if the sun comes into view. Now, I mostly shoot its newer little brother, the S3 Pro. According to Alfred Klomp's web site on Russian cameras, the plastic is merely a casing around the aluminum body; this seems reasonable given the weight. Rewinding difficulty is somewhat determined by the film's base, some are much easier than others. Both the 202 and PROs3 worked better with 24 exposure rolls, at least for me. The Fuji 617 and Xpan are, of course, wide angle cameras rather than rotating lenses, producing quite different effects. You omitted the NOBLEX line of cameras in both 120 and 35mm, superb build, very high quality BUT rely on batteries to drive the rotation. Both the 135S and the PRO 06/150 need 4 AAA batteries. The 150 seems to go through them relatively quickly and I've always been in some place like the Bisti when I needed to replace them. They both load/rewind much more easily than the Horizon models. Silly expensive when new, you can find them now at decent prices if you have patience. The magnetic filters are considerably easier to mount than a Horizon or a WIDELUX. WIDELUX is yet another mechanically driven 35mm rotating lens system. had an F7 back in the 1980s. It was good but not great. Filters were maddening to mount and remove.
I always wanted to try this camera for the novelty, but over the years never pulled the trigger. Such better results to be had with a GL 690 and some adapters. I also love the sharp glass and the separation at 3.5. It's a reliably super sharp quiet brick and I love it. No need to reinvent the wheel.
The light leak happens because the film is not really sealed well once it has been advanced to the next frame. so when you take a photo, the previous frame can receive some stray light. That is not a shutter issue. Just an inherent design flaw. and another tip: the film is not quite loaded correctly at 06:18 : it needs to go underneath the big roller on the left side, not only the small bar.
Thank you for your input,greatly appreciated! No excuse, but this was an old video back from 2021. I was really never satisfied, but decided to post it anyway...
What strikes me more is the unsharp section at the left side of the frames. I suspect wrong film loading. I've owned my 202 for some 20 years and I'm still happy with it. As to your rewinding problem, could it be that you haven't pushed the button on the underside of the camera all the way in and held it until the film was completely rewound? I've never had any probs rewinding. Oh, and if the camera jerks when you release it in hand-held shots, you should be using the hand grip supplied with the camera. Makes holding and levelling the 202 a lot easier.
Maybe it is just old grease that is holding down the movement of the system, or perhaps the slit that makes the shutterspeed at the back has som irratic movement at the end of the travel. Allthough the camera is not that old (30 years) ot is quite possible for Russian lubricants to clog up. The built quality I found quite good! The plastic is only the outer shell. Maybe we should have a closer look at those support rods for the film. I can detect some banding or lines on some of ypur pictures. Maybe one (or both) of those guiderods are stuck or otherwise immobile...
7:30 it is not what you think. it is just a light leak from frame around lens. it always have the same place. so it should be just a bad anti reflection design. i dont see here any exposure differences.
I have a Horizon pano camera... Not the 202. I think, apart from the banding problem.... You are nit picking. I find the camera to be a solid and sturdy camera with no recoil. You got some cracking photo's well worthy of printing and hanging your wall ! a testament to your skill and a great camera 🙂
You’re giving out wrong information. The 202 is NOT a plastic camera. Its plastic skin covers a full metal body. It does have a banding problem due to the travel of the lens, but this happens with more expensive cameras like the Widelux. Exercise the shutter before going out shooting and you should be fine. Finally, too short video about this truly panoramic camera (cutting the top and bottom of a 35mm or 6x9 negative does not make a panoramic image). A pity, because your photos are really good.
First, i really like your industrial images!
Shot a 202 for a couple of decades. Mine hasn't ever produced that "light bar" except if the sun comes into view. Now, I mostly shoot its newer little brother, the S3 Pro. According to Alfred Klomp's web site on Russian cameras, the plastic is merely a casing around the aluminum body; this seems reasonable given the weight. Rewinding difficulty is somewhat determined by the film's base, some are much easier than others. Both the 202 and PROs3 worked better with 24 exposure rolls, at least for me.
The Fuji 617 and Xpan are, of course, wide angle cameras rather than rotating lenses, producing quite different effects.
You omitted the NOBLEX line of cameras in both 120 and 35mm, superb build, very high quality BUT rely on batteries to drive the rotation. Both the 135S and the PRO 06/150 need 4 AAA batteries. The 150 seems to go through them relatively quickly and I've always been in some place like the Bisti when I needed to replace them. They both load/rewind much more easily than the Horizon models. Silly expensive when new, you can find them now at decent prices if you have patience. The magnetic filters are considerably easier to mount than a Horizon or a WIDELUX.
WIDELUX is yet another mechanically driven 35mm rotating lens system. had an F7 back in the 1980s. It was good but not great. Filters were maddening to mount and remove.
Шикарные снимки!
Awesome pictures!
Thank's!
I always wanted to try this camera for the novelty, but over the years never pulled the trigger. Such better results to be had with a GL 690 and some adapters. I also love the sharp glass and the separation at 3.5. It's a reliably super sharp quiet brick and I love it. No need to reinvent the wheel.
The light leak happens because the film is not really sealed well once it has been advanced to the next frame. so when you take a photo, the previous frame can receive some stray light. That is not a shutter issue. Just an inherent design flaw.
and another tip: the film is not quite loaded correctly at 06:18 : it needs to go underneath the big roller on the left side, not only the small bar.
Thank you for your input,greatly appreciated! No excuse, but this was an old video back from 2021. I was really never satisfied, but decided to post it anyway...
Great video, thanks for sharing!
What strikes me more is the unsharp section at the left side of the frames. I suspect wrong film loading.
I've owned my 202 for some 20 years and I'm still happy with it. As to your rewinding problem, could it be that you haven't pushed the button on the underside of the camera all the way in and held it until the film was completely rewound? I've never had any probs rewinding.
Oh, and if the camera jerks when you release it in hand-held shots, you should be using the hand grip supplied with the camera. Makes holding and levelling the 202 a lot easier.
Well seen and correct assumption, thanks for the tips!
Great video I'm torn between purchasing one.
Maybe it is just old grease that is holding down the movement of the system, or perhaps the slit that makes the shutterspeed at the back has som irratic movement at the end of the travel. Allthough the camera is not that old (30 years) ot is quite possible for Russian lubricants to clog up.
The built quality I found quite good! The plastic is only the outer shell.
Maybe we should have a closer look at those support rods for the film. I can detect some banding or lines on some of ypur pictures. Maybe one (or both) of those guiderods are stuck or otherwise immobile...
Thanks Hans for the input... I almost forgot I had the video material of the Horizon 202 back from 2021!
7:30
it is not what you think.
it is just a light leak from frame around lens. it always have the same place. so it should be just a bad anti reflection design.
i dont see here any exposure differences.
I have a Horizon pano camera... Not the 202. I think, apart from the banding problem.... You are nit picking. I find the camera to be a solid and sturdy camera with no recoil. You got some cracking photo's well worthy of printing and hanging your wall ! a testament to your skill and a great camera 🙂
You’re giving out wrong information. The 202 is NOT a plastic camera. Its plastic skin covers a full metal body. It does have a banding problem due to the travel of the lens, but this happens with more expensive cameras like the Widelux. Exercise the shutter before going out shooting and you should be fine. Finally, too short video about this truly panoramic camera (cutting the top and bottom of a 35mm or 6x9 negative does not make a panoramic image). A pity, because your photos are really good.
Thank's for your feedback.
A mechanical mechanism...how...normal.