I will be going toothed belt myself. V belts don't try to climb unless the alignment is stupid off, mostly just wear out quicker. But an under tensioned toothed belt will climb the teeth and can make ridiculous tension loads, just short of slipping is the worst case situation. As long as the tension can be kept correct with varying temps, it's always better IMO. Not sure if it's a good trade off yet, but going with a 2:1 reduction would allow a you to put a cam sensor on the redrive. Lining the cam sensor up with TDC on certain cylinder and the crankshaft sensor would allow easier hand propping. I'm a little nervous here as a toothed wheel can't differentiate forward/reverse motion. I don't want the system getting lost and biting me. I've been bit by RC props a few times! I didn't know you started 4 stroke glow engines by flipping them backwards and not pushing them through TDC. Compression release and a smaller starter is a thought. Also would allow a smaller battery, or even 24 or 48 volt system.
Lining the cam sensor up with TDC on certain cylinder and the crankshaft sensor would allow easier hand propping. USE A MAP SENSOR AND SCHMITT TRIGGER AS A CAM SENSOR
Not sure if it's a good trade off yet, but going with a 2:1 reduction would allow a you to put a cam sensor on the redrive. THEY PROBABLY WONT MAKE ONE FOR YOU, 1 TO1, 2 TO 1, 3 TO 1 ARE TO BE AVOIDED, VIBRATIONS
1 TO 1 is why you could never get an E Prop for a VW or 1/2 VW direct drive. E-Prop was supposed to unveil a 1 to 1 direct drive in 2024 dont know if they did. The harmonics of direct drive or 2:1 or 3:1 would destroy their props
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I will be going toothed belt myself. V belts don't try to climb unless the alignment is stupid off, mostly just wear out quicker. But an under tensioned toothed belt will climb the teeth and can make ridiculous tension loads, just short of slipping is the worst case situation. As long as the tension can be kept correct with varying temps, it's always better IMO.
Not sure if it's a good trade off yet, but going with a 2:1 reduction would allow a you to put a cam sensor on the redrive. Lining the cam sensor up with TDC on certain cylinder and the crankshaft sensor would allow easier hand propping. I'm a little nervous here as a toothed wheel can't differentiate forward/reverse motion. I don't want the system getting lost and biting me. I've been bit by RC props a few times! I didn't know you started 4 stroke glow engines by flipping them backwards and not pushing them through TDC. Compression release and a smaller starter is a thought. Also would allow a smaller battery, or even 24 or 48 volt system.
rc models, if you smack them backward but not THROUGH reverse compression they rebound and start.
Lining the cam sensor up with TDC on certain cylinder and the crankshaft sensor would allow easier hand propping. USE A MAP SENSOR AND SCHMITT TRIGGER AS A CAM SENSOR
I'm a little nervous here as a toothed wheel can't differentiate forward/reverse motion. AN ECU KNOWS FORWARD FROM REVERSE VIA THE CRANK SENSOR
Not sure if it's a good trade off yet, but going with a 2:1 reduction would allow a you to put a cam sensor on the redrive. THEY PROBABLY WONT MAKE ONE FOR YOU, 1 TO1, 2 TO 1, 3 TO 1 ARE TO BE AVOIDED, VIBRATIONS
1 TO 1 is why you could never get an E Prop for a VW or 1/2 VW direct drive. E-Prop was supposed to unveil a 1 to 1 direct drive in 2024 dont know if they did. The harmonics of direct drive or 2:1 or 3:1 would destroy their props