@@pdiz Hog rings on Ebay along with the pliars. I used 3m spray adhesive but you need to be careful. I used very little. Mostly strong arms and plenty of pressure. Watch those seams. I did not have any luck with that silicon spray. Did not make it easier to slide cover over foam.
@@louislamboley9167 There are multiple sizes of hog rings on E-bay. Do you happen to know the size? I guess I can take one off of my original and measure it?
@@pdiz 3/4 " galvanized . Not sure how much your doing. Front buckets and rear seat. I think I bought 250 of them and had very few left over. One thing that helped was taking plenty of photos of the old seats. I also bought cotton and burlap and felt cloth. I used the spray adhesive to apply the felt to the steel frame. Was three years ago and counting. Still was cheaper than having a shop do it and was very satisfying once done. Not that difficult if you follow the guidelines on TH-cam. Rear seat was easier than buckets. Rear required the cotton. Keep a clean work table. Hog rings are sharp. Have fun, be patient. Take your time. No rush.
@@louislamboley9167 Exactly the response I was looking for! Thank you. I will be doing two front buckets and the rear bench on my Road Runner. I will be going in blind on the rear since it's just a spring carcass, and I have one good bucket for reference. I have a rear seat "kit" from Legendary, and I have new foam for the fronts. Will be doing the rear first, so we'll see how it goes. Thanks again.
If you notice, the bottom and back of the seat both have four buttons. On the originals there is a thread attached to the back of these buttons. The thread runs thru the foam or cotton and is fastened to a cotton ball so there is a depression at each of the buttons which give the seat its distinctive shape. On the new seat skins I received there is a washer and two long flat steel fingers behind the buttons. So you would line up these steel fingers where the original threads ran thru, poke the fingers thru the material , then bend them over to hold the button area in to give that same look as the originals. On this video here I don't see that and the result is that the surface areas are flat, no depression around the buttons like the originals. The guy does do awesome work, not one wrinkle.
My '73 Road Runner had foam upper and lower seats. Probably a cost/labor cutting measure by Chrysler or maybe someone redid it that way. I'm just going to do it the way this guy does it and not stress it.
to be honest my older style stuff is in better shape than the newer ( 80's & 2000-14 era's ) foam OEM trim as the foam goes rock-hard/die's, so the new/cheapo's way isn't my favourite and more so of a weekend car/collection-car or in my 60's charger the back seat ( still don't want it to look like a hot mess ect, it's just not my main priority for comfy seating ) as a daily rarity that 50+LB sized human is back there, unlike my driver's seat which i care about being 1st comfy and it 2d looks nice
.. kinda flat pancake like upholstery results, so how would one go about filling out and thereby fluffing up the seat to make it fuller and more cushiony ?
You guys make the best upholstery tutorials, step by step with everything explained.
Except the hog ring size (I presume all 3/4"?) and also what spray adhesive to use... Other than those two things, good to go, I think!
@@pdiz Hog rings on Ebay along with the pliars. I used 3m spray adhesive but you need to be careful. I used very little. Mostly strong arms and plenty of pressure. Watch those seams. I did not have any luck with that silicon spray. Did not make it easier to slide cover over foam.
@@louislamboley9167 There are multiple sizes of hog rings on E-bay. Do you happen to know the size? I guess I can take one off of my original and measure it?
@@pdiz 3/4 " galvanized . Not sure how much your doing. Front buckets and rear seat. I think I bought 250 of them and had very few left over. One thing that helped was taking plenty of photos of the old seats. I also bought cotton and burlap and felt cloth. I used the spray adhesive to apply the felt to the steel frame. Was three years ago and counting. Still was cheaper than having a shop do it and was very satisfying once done. Not that difficult if you follow the guidelines on TH-cam. Rear seat was easier than buckets. Rear required the cotton. Keep a clean work table. Hog rings are sharp. Have fun, be patient. Take your time. No rush.
@@louislamboley9167 Exactly the response I was looking for! Thank you. I will be doing two front buckets and the rear bench on my Road Runner. I will be going in blind on the rear since it's just a spring carcass, and I have one good bucket for reference. I have a rear seat "kit" from Legendary, and I have new foam for the fronts. Will be doing the rear first, so we'll see how it goes. Thanks again.
Wow, That guy was amazing!
That was so helpful. Great work !
If you notice, the bottom and back of the seat both have four buttons. On the originals there is a thread attached to the back of these buttons. The thread runs thru the foam or cotton and is fastened to a cotton ball so there is a depression at each of the buttons which give the seat its distinctive shape. On the new seat skins I received there is a washer and two long flat steel fingers behind the buttons. So you would line up these steel fingers where the original threads ran thru, poke the fingers thru the material , then bend them over to hold the button area in to give that same look as the originals. On this video here I don't see that and the result is that the surface areas are flat, no depression around the buttons like the originals. The guy does do awesome work, not one wrinkle.
My '73 Road Runner had foam upper and lower seats. Probably a cost/labor cutting measure by Chrysler or maybe someone redid it that way. I'm just going to do it the way this guy does it and not stress it.
to be honest my older style stuff is in better shape than the newer ( 80's & 2000-14 era's ) foam OEM trim as the foam goes rock-hard/die's, so the new/cheapo's way isn't my favourite and more so of a weekend car/collection-car or in my 60's charger the back seat ( still don't want it to look like a hot mess ect, it's just not my main priority for comfy seating ) as a daily rarity that 50+LB sized human is back there, unlike my driver's seat which i care about being 1st comfy and it 2d looks nice
What size hog rings are you using? Are they the same throughout the installation and different parts of the seat?
I had to use two different sizes due to the cover being TIGHT. The burlap and muslin went on easily.
I've watched it 6 times now so I should be good to go.
It keep popping up in your feed too?
@@deliciousness8183 Exactly - I could do one of these blindfolded now :-)
@@mtbikemike1 Make a video, I'd like to see that. I'm on my sixth set of seats and it's still tough.
i was hoping you would use a black set of covers for video contrast.
id have them do it.. this is a talent that in acquired
If I can do it, so can you. It will beat you up so be prepared. I am not going to pay for someone to do it AND wait.
where do you get those strips those mullen strips? Do they come with the covers and kit I bought the whole kit / Thanks
Cut them yourself.
Do you have a video of a 68 chevelle rear seat vinyl install
Mopar or no car.
how thick is that foam?
Just get the kit, you won't find it cheaper somewhere else.
Some of the attachment locations are hard to see.
Why use cotton on the top cushion instead of foam like on the bottom?
This is how the seats are done originally from the factory.
Why do we put cotton on the back and not just use foam like seat bottom
.. kinda flat pancake like upholstery results, so how would one go about filling out and thereby fluffing up the seat to make it fuller and more cushiony ?
Did you use the kit? My seats are really full and cushy.
Thats the intro to wcp
How thick is the cotton!?