Good content! Last fall my buddy & I did a complete front end job on my ‘05 F 350 SRW with Moog parts & a new stabilizer with great results! I wish I had put on a dual stabilizer tho. Did the alignment afterwards with minor adjustments. Then I discovered my steering box was bad. I put in a Red Top steering box. The wheel was a little off so, another alignment. Now, she runs & steers great! And I’m broke, Lol! The front end was all original parts so a lot of foul language, hammers of all sizes & sheer might got it done! Thanks again for all you do making your videos and look forward to seeing your next video!
Thanks man. I really appreciate the support! The next video I'm going to shoot tomorrow. I am f ik nally putting the upgraded oil pan on it, but then I just need one or two things to do the front end work for the truck. I hope the repair series for the truck helps some people!
Just did tie rod ends and steering stabilizer in my 2012 f350. I had a funny bump or knock when I would hit bumps in the road and a little bit of play in the steering. I also had a thing going on where if I hit a bump at highway speeds (or faster), the front of my truck felt like it would walk sideways a bit. Replacing the tie rod ends and stabilizer solved it all and tightened up the steering like it should be.
Just did this job for the first time. I counted the turns on the tie rod ends and drag link. I also used a measuring tape to make sure the steering geometry was as close as possible. I had to adjust the toe but the stear ahead with the steering wheel centered was dead on when I put it on the alignment rack. The biggest problem was getting the drag link loose from the pitman arm. That thing was stuck tight!
@@six0bros so I replaced everything except the track bar and ball joints. I had a horrible death wobble before. I can still feel a little wobble in my steering wheel... What can it be?
@@Razr8733 sorry I missed this man. I am going to be doing a death wobble cure video in the future. Most likely this is caused by the track bar and track bar ball joint. This is actually next on my list of things to replace on my truck.
About to help my husband do our front suspension tomorrow.Bought Moog looks like that was a good start! Wish us well with it we've never done this before so if anyone has any solid good advice it would be appreciated ty
Best advice is take your time and don't get frustrated. Sometimes when stuck walk away for 5 minutes and come back. Not a terrible job though all in all
Nice I really liked your video ... these days I will change the drag link of my 2015 F-250 but I saw in your video that you also changed the tie rods end ... how could I know if my truck also requires replacing the tie rod ends, some clue?
Question.... I have the death wobble. Its a 2012 with 100k miles. I replaced the steering damper thinking it was the problem. It helped but didnt completely fix it. I changed the shocks and helped again but not fixed. Do you think changing all of this will finally fix it? Also.... Big question,... what do I want to NOT take off without something hurting me? Like I know not to touch the springs.... what about the sway bar?
Death wobble can be cause by a few things in all of my research a lot of times the track bar and track bar ball joint are to blame. either a bad bushing at the top mounting point bolt to loose or the ball joint has failed. Now you can have other issues but that is probably the leading cause of death wobble in my research. Now yes going over the whole suspension at your mileage is not a bad idea but it is expensive. I have videos on wheel bearings, ball joint, front u joints, as well and one video where I show replacing the track bar I plan another video on replacing the track bar and the ball joint too
Really the spring is it. I mean do not remove the radius arms and the track bar because those are what hold it to the frame but take one or the other should be fine. I would also only do one radius arm at a time but you're not even messing with them. Also depending if you have true death wobble vs a very bad vibration having tires rebalanced isnt a bad idea either and was the source of issues for me
I read some good reviews on the Raybestos Professional ball joints, so when I saw them on clearance on Rock Auto i bought them. They seem to be working fine, but the studs and castle nuts have rusted much more than expected. It looks like really cheap steel. Should have just went with the Moog.
What did you do about the left tie rod not having the slit near the threads, on the shaft where the Moog part has an arrow? did you just put the bracket back on it and tighten down?
Just a note that changing the length of the drag link doesn’t affect tire alignment, only steering wheel alignment, and it’s easily adjusted. Tie rod length, on the other hand, does affect tire alignment.
I know I'm late here but spot on here. It is easy to adjust I do try and keep everything very close just makes things easier with hopefully less adjustment in the end.
Very informative, thanks. I have a 2017 lifted Super Duty 6.7 diesel, 145k miles, I'm told I need a new wheel bearing and hub assembly, steering drag link, and tie rod ends. I'll probably get new shocks while I'm at it. Without the shocks, the estimate for hub assemby, drag link, three tie rod ends, and alignment is $1595. I was expecting more, actually. Question here is should I have the guy replace the other wheel bearing while I have it? Also, dealership replaced track bar about 20k miles ago, I had the wobble of death when braking hard or hitting a pothole. Thanks for the great content.
The track bar is frequently the cause of death wobble. I personally prefer to replace it all at the same time driver and passenger side. That way you know everything is good to go and shouldn't have any issues.
just going through old messages and making sure people got responses. I have been meaning to do a video on this yet but taking a big pry bar under your front tire after lifting it off the ground you can then check for any noise by prying up on the tire. steering components you can have someone turn your wheels back and forth while you look for excessive play you can also grab them and try and turn them back and forth and check the amount of play in them.
What were your left upper and lower tie rod #'s . And your rh side numbers. I work in parts and it depends on whether you have a twin i beam or moonbeam front suspension
At 7:30 mins into the video you talk about measuring to get it back close. “Count the threads, that usually gets it close enough to drive safely to alignment shop.
Hello, fellow pa 6.0 owner. I've been following the channel for a while. I'm doing ball joints and ujoints this weekend. I was wondering if you remember the torque specs on the moog parts. I have moog parts as well previously installed and can't remember the torque specs to save my life. I do know they are different than the factory ford specs.
I did not have death wobble. what I have found in my research on the topic... track bar is a very common overlooked cause of it. not always that it needs replaced but that it may be to loose. tighten the bolts to it has helped many people out. That said it can be caused by any number of failed components and I would have a good shop go over all of them before replacing anything. It can be very expensive to just start replacing these parts.
You keep referencing measuring from center of tie rod (rod) to a designated place of your choice for as close to possible for alignment purposes. Why not just count number of turns while emoving old and when screwing new outer to draglink screw back in same number of turns. I think more precise than trying to measure. But again just my thoughts. And your method will get you back close , same as my method
I had a few reasons I didn't try that and why I prefer to measure. First like you said getting close is really the name of the game, but I didn't use a Ford part and the new one may be a slightly different length. The other is on this truck I just got all new everything because these things were boarding on impossible to move and take off, but I completely agree that typically both methods will get you close but since I didn't just replace a side and replace both the collar and tie rod I wasn't able to
Good video. I'm in the middle of doing the tie rod ends and drag link on my '11 with 6.7. The project, while fairly easy does need some thought. My truck, being a JOB 1, built in May 2010 is a mish mash of 2010 and 2011 parts. You really need to do your research based on measuring the actual parts on the truck as the Ford parts book is not always right. I have two that were dead wrong - a too long drag link and a wrong thread dia. left tie rod end. Also - that tie rod end at the pitman arm - needs a real BFH, many big swats along with a few swear words
@@mikehunt7483 I'm trying to get back at it brother. Been crazy with being in health care right now and school, but I am planning on doing another mod to the truck on Monday
6.0 Bros Keep them coming! Your a true “do it yourself-er” like me and probably most of your subscribers! I try n do everything myself, in my driveway on my back! Please STAY SAFE!✌🏻
This job is a pain in the rear. use Ford OEM parts....Engineers design these fittings with no grease fitting because most techs and owners do not take proper steps when re-lubricating them. The grease nipple and gun must be totally clean of debris or you introduce dirt, sand ect into the joint...thus causing premature failure
You can always just use the plug that comes with them too. However I agree the average person won't lube them. Even people that take great care of their vehicle won't grease
@@six0bros well, I've never done this before. I'm usually pretty handy with a wrench, but I'm no mechanic. However, if I can see it done, I can usually do it. All I seen was you taking the stuff apart, I didn't see what you were actually doing.
Sorry about that. I try not to show to much as in some people complain. I will say do not over think it. It is much easier than people think. If you have any specific questions im happy to try and answer them
@@six0bros thank you, I appreciate that. I'm not complaining. I don't understand why someone would complain about you showing too much, lol. Why would anyone watch a video on something they already know how to do?
I was just going through comments and there is one other company that seems to be making great parts mevotech has gotten some good reviews and seem to hold up well
I had to walk to the parts store and filming really adds a slot of time making sure you get all the shots. If I had to do it and get it done it is about 3 hours tops
Please stop making incomplete videos. 15 mins and didn’t even show the most important part, the installation. Other people might not need to know more like did you measure the height and make sure drag link was level before tightening adjust bolts. We need to know all the details. Here’s the install, oh wait, it’s dark out, it’s only three bolts, good luck.
Sorry ya seem so upset. If it didn't have what you needed just find the next video. Correct it isn't a step by step process but also this job doesn't require a super detailed video. I would have loved to do one but it's just me filming these so sometimes I cannot do that. As for the comment about its only the nuts to take off if you're replacing everything like I did it really is that easy. I do appreciate the feedback but if you need more help I'm sure there's other videos to check out too. Or at a minimum maybe not act like it isn't helpful at all because a lot of people did find this helpful sorry you did not
@@six0bros if you don’t know then why are you making videos? Not even editing them? Take your time and write it up at least. People watch these videos for specific information. Not a guy with tools and parts all over the ground with bad lighting and no actual specifications. I’m trying to help you become better but take it how you want. It was absolutely 0% helpful. All I needed to know was if you measured the drag link/tie rods at the end before you tightened to rule something out on my end. I figured it out on my own by reading someone else’s write up. There are too many people out there with a camera making incomplete videos. It’s extremely frustrating for all of us, not just me. Good luck
@TheBruceDickenson1 if I don't know what? Clarify for me. Glad you found the info you needed somewhere else. I will continue to make videos though and again over the years I have gotten a lot of feedback from people finding them helpful. Sorry you had such a hard time. My issue as far as your feedback was mainly that it comes off rude. I have gotten a lot of constructive criticism over the years and it has helped me grow on my channel. You just seem salty for some reason hope you have a better day bud
@TheBruceDickenson1 also at this point mainly responding for my entertainment before editing my next video truly I am glad someone made what you were looking for. I'm here to help sorry you didn't like my format
Gosh, I know this will make me sound like a douche, but it drives me crazy. What has happened to the English language. Common Man. Things don't "need replaced", they either "need 'TO BE' replaced", or they "need replacing". Saying "this needs replaced" makes you sound illiterate, and you're obviously not.
I feel like this was an insult and a compliment lol. Thanks for not thinking I am illiterate? I guess lol. I hope the video helped if you needed it though.
![กินอาหาร ถูก vs แพง!! จานละ 500,000 vs จานละ 50!! [Ver. 2024]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FF_HppKg4vs/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the next mods revealed in this video! Check it out!
th-cam.com/video/HREH8xTqLXs/w-d-xo.html
Good content! Last fall my buddy & I did a complete front end job on my ‘05 F 350 SRW with Moog parts & a new stabilizer with great results! I wish I had put on a dual stabilizer tho. Did the alignment afterwards with minor adjustments.
Then I discovered my steering box was bad. I put in a Red Top steering box. The wheel was a little off so, another alignment. Now, she runs & steers great! And I’m broke, Lol!
The front end was all original parts so a lot of foul language, hammers of all sizes & sheer might got it done!
Thanks again for all you do making your videos and look forward to seeing your next video!
Thanks man. I really appreciate the support! The next video I'm going to shoot tomorrow. I am f ik nally putting the upgraded oil pan on it, but then I just need one or two things to do the front end work for the truck. I hope the repair series for the truck helps some people!
Just did tie rod ends and steering stabilizer in my 2012 f350. I had a funny bump or knock when I would hit bumps in the road and a little bit of play in the steering. I also had a thing going on where if I hit a bump at highway speeds (or faster), the front of my truck felt like it would walk sideways a bit. Replacing the tie rod ends and stabilizer solved it all and tightened up the steering like it should be.
They can make such a big difference when they need replaced
Just earned yourself a subscriber. Great content and exactly what I’m needing to replace👍🏽
Glad it is helpful man. Thanks for the subscribe
Just did this job for the first time. I counted the turns on the tie rod ends and drag link. I also used a measuring tape to make sure the steering geometry was as close as possible. I had to adjust the toe but the stear ahead with the steering wheel centered was dead on when I put it on the alignment rack. The biggest problem was getting the drag link loose from the pitman arm. That thing was stuck tight!
That part was awful for me too. I try and have them lined up close because it saves headache. I'm normally not terribly far off
Thanks. Helpful
Glad it helped man
Thanks for putting all the links saved me a bunch of time since Moog offers multiple options for the same parts.
No problem man I am glad it helped!
@@six0bros so I replaced everything except the track bar and ball joints. I had a horrible death wobble before. I can still feel a little wobble in my steering wheel... What can it be?
@@Razr8733 sorry I missed this man. I am going to be doing a death wobble cure video in the future. Most likely this is caused by the track bar and track bar ball joint. This is actually next on my list of things to replace on my truck.
About to help my husband do our front suspension tomorrow.Bought Moog looks like that was a good start! Wish us well with it we've never done this before so if anyone has any solid good advice it would be appreciated ty
Best advice is take your time and don't get frustrated. Sometimes when stuck walk away for 5 minutes and come back. Not a terrible job though all in all
Nice I really liked your video ... these days I will change the drag link of my 2015 F-250 but I saw in your video that you also changed the tie rods end ... how could I know if my truck also requires replacing the tie rod ends, some clue?
main thing is checking for excessive play or being very loose.
Thanks. About to tear into my 12’ f450.
Good luck man. It's not to bad
🍻
Question.... I have the death wobble. Its a 2012 with 100k miles.
I replaced the steering damper thinking it was the problem. It helped but didnt completely fix it. I changed the shocks and helped again but not fixed.
Do you think changing all of this will finally fix it?
Also.... Big question,... what do I want to NOT take off without something hurting me?
Like I know not to touch the springs.... what about the sway bar?
Death wobble can be cause by a few things in all of my research a lot of times the track bar and track bar ball joint are to blame. either a bad bushing at the top mounting point bolt to loose or the ball joint has failed. Now you can have other issues but that is probably the leading cause of death wobble in my research. Now yes going over the whole suspension at your mileage is not a bad idea but it is expensive. I have videos on wheel bearings, ball joint, front u joints, as well and one video where I show replacing the track bar I plan another video on replacing the track bar and the ball joint too
Really the spring is it. I mean do not remove the radius arms and the track bar because those are what hold it to the frame but take one or the other should be fine. I would also only do one radius arm at a time but you're not even messing with them. Also depending if you have true death wobble vs a very bad vibration having tires rebalanced isnt a bad idea either and was the source of issues for me
I read some good reviews on the Raybestos Professional ball joints, so when I saw them on clearance on Rock Auto i bought them. They seem to be working fine, but the studs and castle nuts have rusted much more than expected. It looks like really cheap steel. Should have just went with the Moog.
I have raybesto on my white truck. They do ok but I like factor or moog more
What did you do about the left tie rod not having the slit near the threads, on the shaft where the Moog part has an arrow? did you just put the bracket back on it and tighten down?
Im not sure what part you are talking about the slit instead of the arrow. Do you have a picture yiu can send me on instagram?
Do you have the part numbers you used. I need to do tie rod ends on my 12 6.7. There are so many options not sure what part will fit? Truck is stock.
links in the description for parts used.
Just a note that changing the length of the drag link doesn’t affect tire alignment, only steering wheel alignment, and it’s easily adjusted. Tie rod length, on the other hand, does affect tire alignment.
I know I'm late here but spot on here. It is easy to adjust I do try and keep everything very close just makes things easier with hopefully less adjustment in the end.
Very informative, thanks. I have a 2017 lifted Super Duty 6.7 diesel, 145k miles, I'm told I need a new wheel bearing and hub assembly, steering drag link, and tie rod ends. I'll probably get new shocks while I'm at it. Without the shocks, the estimate for hub assemby, drag link, three tie rod ends, and alignment is $1595. I was expecting more, actually. Question here is should I have the guy replace the other wheel bearing while I have it? Also, dealership replaced track bar about 20k miles ago, I had the wobble of death when braking hard or hitting a pothole. Thanks for the great content.
The track bar is frequently the cause of death wobble. I personally prefer to replace it all at the same time driver and passenger side. That way you know everything is good to go and shouldn't have any issues.
Good vid, noob question. How does a guy tell he needs front end work?
Would it be play in steering?
just going through old messages and making sure people got responses. I have been meaning to do a video on this yet but taking a big pry bar under your front tire after lifting it off the ground you can then check for any noise by prying up on the tire. steering components you can have someone turn your wheels back and forth while you look for excessive play you can also grab them and try and turn them back and forth and check the amount of play in them.
What were your left upper and lower tie rod #'s . And your rh side numbers. I work in parts and it depends on whether you have a twin i beam or moonbeam front suspension
what are the differences between those 2 front ends. I though all 4x4 had the same front end f250/350
At 7:30 mins into the video you talk about measuring to get it back close. “Count the threads, that usually gets it close enough to drive safely to alignment shop.
Good tip man. I was able to get it pretty close measuring and didn't have any issues but the more tips in this section the better
Those caps on the nut are factory. It's a wierd design but works.
I mean they held so no complaints there lol. Just different from things I have seen in the past
How did you get the top boot onto passenger side tie rod?
They should just go on prior to installing it onto the truck? Which ones did you go with?
Hello, fellow pa 6.0 owner. I've been following the channel for a while. I'm doing ball joints and ujoints this weekend. I was wondering if you remember the torque specs on the moog parts. I have moog parts as well previously installed and can't remember the torque specs to save my life. I do know they are different than the factory ford specs.
I believe you can find it on their website I forget the torque spec
Can we get a parts numbers list with everything you replaced ?
There are links to everything I bought off Amazon. I do not have the Ford part numbers but everything is in the description
Did this stop this rebuild stop the infamous death wobble?
I did not have death wobble. what I have found in my research on the topic... track bar is a very common overlooked cause of it. not always that it needs replaced but that it may be to loose. tighten the bolts to it has helped many people out. That said it can be caused by any number of failed components and I would have a good shop go over all of them before replacing anything. It can be very expensive to just start replacing these parts.
I'd like to finish watching the video, but I can't because the shaky cam makes me nauseated physically. Can you use a tripod?
Lol seems maybe a tad excessive but some shots are just hard to get. I do try to as often as I can but things happen
Great video, how much was the total cost of the parts if you don't mind, thank you
Don't quite me on price exactly I can get you affiliate links to stuff if you would like. It should be approximately 300-400 I parts.
@@six0bros I would love that thanks
Can you give me specs on your truck year, drive, 250/350 dually?
You keep referencing measuring from center of tie rod (rod) to a designated place of your choice for as close to possible for alignment purposes. Why not just count number of turns while emoving old and when screwing new outer to draglink screw back in same number of turns. I think more precise than trying to measure. But again just my thoughts. And your method will get you back close , same as my method
I had a few reasons I didn't try that and why I prefer to measure. First like you said getting close is really the name of the game, but I didn't use a Ford part and the new one may be a slightly different length. The other is on this truck I just got all new everything because these things were boarding on impossible to move and take off, but I completely agree that typically both methods will get you close but since I didn't just replace a side and replace both the collar and tie rod I wasn't able to
Good video.
I'm in the middle of doing the tie rod ends and drag link on my '11 with 6.7. The project, while fairly easy does need some thought. My truck, being a JOB 1, built in May 2010 is a mish mash of 2010 and 2011 parts. You really need to do your research based on measuring the actual parts on the truck as the Ford parts book is not always right. I have two that were dead wrong - a too long drag link and a wrong thread dia. left tie rod end.
Also - that tie rod end at the pitman arm - needs a real BFH, many big swats along with a few swear words
Off the pitman arm I used a picklefork for it. Also I got the wrong tie rod end the first time too, and mines a 15.
Notification squad! First!
Havent had anyone claim first in a good bit. Nice to have it again! Lol thanks for the support man
@@six0bros that's bc you stopped posting Jared! We all miss your videos.
@@mikehunt7483 I'm trying to get back at it brother. Been crazy with being in health care right now and school, but I am planning on doing another mod to the truck on Monday
6.0 Bros Keep them coming! Your a true “do it yourself-er” like me and probably most of your subscribers! I try n do everything myself, in my driveway on my back! Please STAY SAFE!✌🏻
@@rogerstella458 I will be as safe as I can! Ill do my best to keep making these for everyone!
This job is a pain in the rear. use Ford OEM parts....Engineers design these fittings with no grease fitting because most techs and owners do not take proper steps when re-lubricating them. The grease nipple and gun must be totally clean of debris or you introduce dirt, sand ect into the joint...thus causing premature failure
You can always just use the plug that comes with them too. However I agree the average person won't lube them. Even people that take great care of their vehicle won't grease
How much did you pay for our alignment?
I think its about 100 around me at most places
How did you know it's bad?
Excessive play and easy to move the joints. I think I show in the video the one part wasn't bad and could have been reused
I'd like to see the actual work...
What would you like to see? This summer hoping to do some tkeing videos
@@six0bros well, I've never done this before. I'm usually pretty handy with a wrench, but I'm no mechanic. However, if I can see it done, I can usually do it. All I seen was you taking the stuff apart, I didn't see what you were actually doing.
Sorry about that. I try not to show to much as in some people complain. I will say do not over think it. It is much easier than people think. If you have any specific questions im happy to try and answer them
@@six0bros thank you, I appreciate that. I'm not complaining. I don't understand why someone would complain about you showing too much, lol. Why would anyone watch a video on something they already know how to do?
You really needed more light
I am always trying to do better with this the next time I do something I have some different light setups to help with this in thr future
That’s too many links.make your own drag link you can buy a kit for around $175
I advise against cheaper kits. These trucks are heavy and hard on suspension parts. Moog or OEM parts is what I recommend.
I was just going through comments and there is one other company that seems to be making great parts mevotech has gotten some good reviews and seem to hold up well
I think I rather pay to get it done it seems like it took u days
I had to walk to the parts store and filming really adds a slot of time making sure you get all the shots. If I had to do it and get it done it is about 3 hours tops
Nah bro DIY u got it.
Please stop making incomplete videos. 15 mins and didn’t even show the most important part, the installation. Other people might not need to know more like did you measure the height and make sure drag link was level before tightening adjust bolts. We need to know all the details. Here’s the install, oh wait, it’s dark out, it’s only three bolts, good luck.
Sorry ya seem so upset. If it didn't have what you needed just find the next video. Correct it isn't a step by step process but also this job doesn't require a super detailed video. I would have loved to do one but it's just me filming these so sometimes I cannot do that. As for the comment about its only the nuts to take off if you're replacing everything like I did it really is that easy. I do appreciate the feedback but if you need more help I'm sure there's other videos to check out too. Or at a minimum maybe not act like it isn't helpful at all because a lot of people did find this helpful sorry you did not
@@six0bros if you don’t know then why are you making videos? Not even editing them? Take your time and write it up at least. People watch these videos for specific information. Not a guy with tools and parts all over the ground with bad lighting and no actual specifications. I’m trying to help you become better but take it how you want. It was absolutely 0% helpful. All I needed to know was if you measured the drag link/tie rods at the end before you tightened to rule something out on my end. I figured it out on my own by reading someone else’s write up. There are too many people out there with a camera making incomplete videos. It’s extremely frustrating for all of us, not just me. Good luck
@TheBruceDickenson1 if I don't know what? Clarify for me. Glad you found the info you needed somewhere else. I will continue to make videos though and again over the years I have gotten a lot of feedback from people finding them helpful. Sorry you had such a hard time. My issue as far as your feedback was mainly that it comes off rude. I have gotten a lot of constructive criticism over the years and it has helped me grow on my channel. You just seem salty for some reason hope you have a better day bud
@TheBruceDickenson1 also at this point mainly responding for my entertainment before editing my next video truly I am glad someone made what you were looking for. I'm here to help sorry you didn't like my format
Same way it got off goes on! Lol excellent video imo thanks starting mine soon
Gosh, I know this will make me sound like a douche, but it drives me crazy. What has happened to the English language. Common Man. Things don't "need replaced", they either "need 'TO BE' replaced", or they "need replacing". Saying "this needs replaced" makes you sound illiterate, and you're obviously not.
I feel like this was an insult and a compliment lol. Thanks for not thinking I am illiterate? I guess lol. I hope the video helped if you needed it though.
@@six0bros No! Not an insult, just a call out.