Great to see this vid has been provided to assist us, the great unwashed, and was absolutely of assistance to me.. I'm going to note a couple of things in the process: If you don't want to disassemble the boiler, get the spanner.. Then, If you have a pressure profiler or airbuster installed, the spanner will be too long... I took mine to the bench vice, and "adjusted" it with a hammer. Now, you won't using the spanner in the conventional sense of spanners, you can only locate the nut and hold it, there will be no turning.... While I was at the vice I took the grinder to the shoulders on the spanner, so that I could better find the flats of the unseen nut.. And, yes, when removing the existing tap body, it will hit your pressure gauge, perched atop the sight glass.. I'm going suggest that, in the sense of working with bicycles: if you fiddle with it, there will be trouble... Leave the pressure gauge in place and remove the tap handle (that you will no longer use) in order to facilitate the removal of the tap body... At reassembly, and you will have already noted that the nut that holds the tap body on is oddly thin, with the nut held in the spanner, I had difficulty picking up the thread with the new tap body... It certainly wasn't an option with the two nylon washers at the tap body, depicted in the vid... The kit however came with four such nylon washers, so, before you place the nut (wafer thin..) into the spanner, slip in a nylon washer, to raise the nut up... Even then, in the end I just some how jagged it, and I was away.. Lastly; the kit doesn't come with a new copper washer, so it might be best to anneal the existing one, at your kitchen hob, before reassembly.... Hope this is useful..
Do you have any suggestions on how to straighten the hole that the steam tap screws into? It is bent inward and leaks. I can't seem to bend it without damaging the body.
mine was distorted as well. The body seems to be very thin so in my case I have just tightened the nut inside and it has levelled the bent body back to plain shape in that area
@@coffeesensor6612 I have the same question. What blocking nut should I adjust and which way? I struggle to identify any direction where the purge mode works a in the video. I understand that it's a matter of adjustment.
Great to see this vid has been provided to assist us, the great unwashed, and was absolutely of assistance to me.. I'm going to note a couple of things in the process: If you don't want to disassemble the boiler, get the spanner.. Then, If you have a pressure profiler or airbuster installed, the spanner will be too long... I took mine to the bench vice, and "adjusted" it with a hammer.
Now, you won't using the spanner in the conventional sense of spanners, you can only locate the nut and hold it, there will be no turning.... While I was at the vice I took the grinder to the shoulders on the spanner, so that I could better find the flats of the unseen nut.. And, yes, when removing the existing tap body, it will hit your pressure gauge, perched atop the sight glass.. I'm going suggest that, in the sense of working with bicycles: if you fiddle with it, there will be trouble... Leave the pressure gauge in place and remove the tap handle (that you will no longer use) in order to facilitate the removal of the tap body...
At reassembly, and you will have already noted that the nut that holds the tap body on is oddly thin, with the nut held in the spanner, I had difficulty picking up the thread with the new tap body... It certainly wasn't an option with the two nylon washers at the tap body, depicted in the vid... The kit however came with four such nylon washers, so, before you place the nut (wafer thin..) into the spanner, slip in a nylon washer, to raise the nut up... Even then, in the end I just some how jagged it, and I was away.. Lastly; the kit doesn't come with a new copper washer, so it might be best to anneal the existing one, at your kitchen hob, before reassembly.... Hope this is useful..
Perfect timing for the release of this tutorial. Thank you!
You're so welcome!
Nice machine!
Thanks. Perfect explanations for each step.
Супер!!!! Отлично!!! СПАСИБО!!!!!!
Where do you get the wrench to fit inside boiler?
coffee-sensor.com/product/la-pavoni-lever-custom-steam-valve-removal-tool-or-wrench/
Do you have any suggestions on how to straighten the hole that the steam tap screws into? It is bent inward and leaks. I can't seem to bend it without damaging the body.
th-cam.com/video/2jLLhJ0x3n4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kxDdHZnG324rzreT
mine was distorted as well. The body seems to be very thin so in my case I have just tightened the nut inside and it has levelled the bent body back to plain shape in that area
Is it possible to install this reversed for left-handed use? Is there a way to modify a steam wand to work in left-handed configuration?
I don't think so, since the steam pipe has the current position.
I have problems with the push lever not springing back up in the downward purge mode. What can I do to fix this?
You need to use the blocking nut, change it's position in order to obtain the best knob function.
@@coffeesensor6612 I have the same question. What blocking nut should I adjust and which way? I struggle to identify any direction where the purge mode works a in the video. I understand that it's a matter of adjustment.
will this fit on a machine with an old steam wand?
pre 1993
Yes, if you remove the entire old wand and use this product.
No Teflon Tape on the thread with the 2 Teflon washers?
Only if you keep getting a leak.
Will there be a brass/gold version?
Not for now.