Overlooked Bike Maintenance: Greasing Freehub & Quick Release Skewer or Thru Axle

Forgotten Maintenance: Did you forget to grease ---?
Freehub. Whenever you replace a worn bicycle cassette (or periodically to prevent seizure and dirt built up):
1. Remove the cassette. We’ll use a Shimano freehub removal tool (such as the Park FR-5.2 cassette lockring tool which also works for SRAM), a crescent (adjustable) wrench and chain whip. If you’ve never removed or replaced a cassette cluster, check our video in the upper right. When removing the cassette, check for any spacers between the cassette and hub and place aside - you’ll need it for re-assembly.
2. Wipe down the freehub with clean cloth.
3. Now some say to leave the freehub dry before re-assembly. I disagree. I always lubricate where metal meets metal to prevent rust & corrosion and increase performance. Lubricate freehub surface with just a little lubricant such as Park Polylube 1000 or grease of your choice.
4. In this case, we will be replacing the bike cassette.
5. Add any spacer you found (or you will have a loose cassette with cassette play or cassette wobble) on the freehub and then install bike casssette. Lubricate lockring threads. Tighten the cassette lockring with the freehub tool hand tight.
6. To torque lockring, start with the crescent wrench at the 3 o’clock position, pull down. Pull firmly ‘till tight but don’t use gorilla force or you’ll never get the lockring back on.
And don’t forget to clean and lubricate quick release skewers / lubricate through axles:
1. Clean and apply a light coat of grease or lubricant to the surface of the quick release skewer or lubricate thru axle.
2. Then reassemble.
3. I suggest cleaning and light lubrication when ever you replace tires or at yearly bicycle maintenance.

[@thebladonator]

my bikes are already so old and rusty, i will need to give everything a really thorough clean. Thanks for highlighting the importance of greasing these overlooked components.

[@tony10speed]

We also have a playlist on bike restoration if you're interested:
th-cam.com/play/PLYbCdE49qIMdC9Yri2iArgH6Mb0vup18B.html

[@Mdustries]

If your taking the cassette off, you may as well service the freehub and bearings as well. Cup and cone hubs require this maintenence and even sealed bearings dry over time. If sealed bearings show rust, purchase a new cartridge, if you just feel a bit of friction, dust cap can be removed for greasing and replaced. These would all be much more useful way to spend your time, when already replacing a cassette.

[@tony10speed]

There are many freehubs and some are easier to service then others. Many of todays hub, such as Zipp, are easy to just pull off and service. But as we get into Shimano, especially older models, and it become more complex. Here are some examples:
th-cam.com/video/IDwH0QOnn_Y/w-d-xo.html
and
th-cam.com/video/FXZY0A3DUkk/w-d-xo.html
and
th-cam.com/video/99jvHp7Fb-U/w-d-xo.html
Older Bontrager freehubs, because they use alloy rather then steel, can be almost impossible to remove and there are several videos on these.
As far as getting to the cups and cones of the wheel hub (rather then freehub) as you're mentioning above, it is a bit easier - in that you don't need to remove the freehub in most cases. How often do I service the hub, usually when I replace the tires (for me about 3,000 to 3500 miles). Hub service and ball bearing replacement on my Mavic wheels is relatively easy. But then again, it depends on the hub. So it's tough to make a generalization for all freehubs and wheel bearings.

[@mickhurley7305]

Good video, you got a sub. You seem like a good teacher/mechanic.
Reminds me of my dad, all he had was an ild school bag full of tools and a jar of grease and theres was nothing mechanical he couldnt fix.

[@tony10speed]

Thanks. I try my best to share the knowledge I've accumulated over years of cycling. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@bolerkai]

Valuable content, love your channel.

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@reginaldscot165]

I can’t say it’s needed on modern quality steel or aluminium hubs. They don’t rust and adding grease just attracts dirt.
As for the QRs, I sometimes put a little on the threads, but not on the body. If the QRs are of quality material they don’t rust.
For grease as a bike mechanic I only grease threaded parts and parts that move. Oh and end caps to keep water out.

[@tony10speed]

I guess it's how we were taught. Light coat of grease on metal to metal contact decreases noise and repeals water. But I understand where your coming from. Thanks for your comment, much appreciated. Tony

[@Ninja_Revenge]

True. Only attracts dirt and grime. Get titanium QRs if you ride in bad weather regularly though.

[@scottiehanbacks6595]

Thankyou for the video im redoing my schwin mountain bike work in progress plan on greesing my axles

[@tony10speed]

Let me know how you make out with your Schwinn bike. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@leftyseel8658]

I Installed the rs100 wheelset but i only greased the lockring and the quick release lock nut. Guess i have to take the wheels out again ang grease the skewers and freehub body. Did not grease them coz i heard from others it’ll just attract dirt.

[@tony10speed]

It's a debated issue and depends on how you were taught. I use grease where ever metal meets metal to prevent noise and decrease wear, but only a tiny amount. There are others who disagree. I would leave your wheel setup as it is and consider whether to grease (or not) the next time you replace you cassette. Regards, Tony

[@leftyseel8658]

@@tony10speed I trust you, sir. I’ll grease them later before i tune my bike. Ride safe!

[@benedictypx]

I did not grease the skewer and freehub previously until recently.
When I pressed the brakes while moving, the skewers would vibate and cause a very annoying ticking sound when the fork flexes.
As for the freehub body, whenever I apply torque to pedal the bike, there is ticking sounds coming from the freehub.
I used Maxima Waterproof Grease for the skewers and the paws/grooves in the freehub body and it eliminated all the noise.

[@leftyseel8658]

@@benedictypx Hey appreciate all the info. Thanks!

[@jaredyoung3269]

Thanks tony

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our TH-cam home site at:
th-cam.com/users/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@raptoress6131]

Can oil get into sealed bearings and does it matter? I'm adding grease to the bearings, but I'm not sure if I should put grease or oil on the freehub. There seem to be two opinions.

[@tony10speed]

There is a debate on greasing the freehub. Some suggest leaving it dry, but others, ( myself included) put a very light coat of grease (not oil) on the freehub before installing the cassette because of the metal on metal contact (to reduce noise and prevent corrosion). The seals for the hub bearing are pretty good and prevent dirt, grime and moisture from getting into the hub (unless you spray a powerful hose or power washer directly at the hub). Good question. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@gregoryhouse2560]

How often should you grease the quick release?

[@tony10speed]

Yearly or when every you replace your tires (I leave that up to you).

[@mikeburgh3956]

What do you use on pawl springs? Oil? Or very thin grease so spring don't get stuck & move freely

[@tony10speed]

For freehubs with pawls and springs, I use a light grease such as Shimano Internal Hub Grease or Finish Line Premium Grease made with Teflon, or something similar. Try just enough to keep the pawls and springs in place (not to much). For hubs with spings and gears, either Phil Wood Tenacious Lube Oil or light grease as above.

[@mikeburgh3956]

@@tony10speed I was just looking at the Shimano hub grease. Actually put it in my Amazon cart. TY!!

[@richardsummers3323]

If you don't need to replace the cassette, should you remove it and re-grease the freehub?

[@tony10speed]

I, personally, would remove, clean and grease the freehub every 2 or so years (if not replacing the cassette) if nothing more then removing the dirt and grime that build up between the cassette and freehub, especially at the point between the hub and largest cog. Good question, thanks.

[@thefacelessone74]

Where you finding these free hubs?

[@neomancr]

Now does dry lube like carbon fare?

[@tony10speed]

Most freehubs bodies are alloy or steel with some containing exotic metals such as titanium. I just use a very light coat of grease such as "Phil Waterproof Grease" all though many mechanics suggest leaving the interface dry (no lubricant). That's a matter of choice. I have not seen it suggested to use carbon paste. Interesting question, thanks. Tony

[@guyboyd9226]

Why grease the QR or axle?

[@tony10speed]

Always a good idea to grease areas where metal meets metal. Decrease wear and eliminate noise which may develop.

[@awadg6243]

Jaco gauge???

[@tony10speed]

See:
th-cam.com/video/IXhCo3-gQIg/w-d-xo.html

[@hugoscott8569]

Must you use Park grease?

[@tony10speed]

No, that's just what I have available. A light coat of any good quality grease is fine.

[@Leo-gt1bx]

That is not free hub greasing at all

[@tony10speed]

I think you're referring to "freehub overhaul" that involves taking the freehub apart, cleaning and lubricating which is another topic for another video. We'll get to that. Thanks, Tony