Top tip...never seen that before. When using sash cramps I always use 4 cramps, 2 on top and 2 below, always counteract the force being generated from below.
Yeah thats the way. I find if the workpiece thickness is thinner than the centre of the screw thread the piece being clamped trys to bow into the bar of the clamp and holds it straight. need clamps both sides for thicker though.
Great tip. We build mostly cope and stick doors in my shop. Just use Titebond 2 and hold the glue back from the inside corner about 3/8". Clamp tight and is solid in 15 minutes. Easy water clean up.
Great tip mate, had some horrible times trying to clean up mouldings etc. which can make you glue shy, but with PU you can’t really go wrong it holds like shit on a blanket! A tip back at you though is acetone! You’ve probably got some in your make up drawer for getting the nail polish off after the weekend 😉 On a cloth, takes it off beautifully at the soft stage in a pinch, more than likely‘compromise’ adhesion at that spot, but lesser of to evils, great for tools / clamps etc. Have a great weekend mate 💄 😂
good tip ill try this - update on your scribing method with a 12 or 10mm belt sander - tried that and found it slow and the belt snapped frequently - probably because I had quite a lot to remove on some beech frames (hard timber and probably 20 linear metres to do!) found that a sanding/ abrasive disc on a small angle grinder was actually more accurate and used only one disc! takes some practice but you can get very good results... even if you decide the belt sander is better the disc sander will get you 99 percent of the way first - however must be done outside! dust is not something the customer wouldn't appreciate!
Not sure what you’re scribing, but the table saw can make a great job of it, it’s a fiddle for a small job, but if you have a lot it a game changer and arc of blade gives you a perfect back cut. Just enter at an angle, you’ll figure it out. Or the collins coping foot is awesome for one off’s
Cheers Rob, yeah The sander is only really for intricate work as like you say its dead slow! Grinder works wonders outside, i tend to rebate the frame with a planer to leave a 10mm lip that can be scribed easier. The ideal tool would be like a rasp on the narrow belt sander haha
Great tip again! I detest PU Glue with a passion due to the mess it creates, but I will be trying this one mate. I appreciate that PU is needed for ACCOYA and Tri-coya but also hate the limited open time on the stuff so do tend to use the 45 min PU Glue rather than the 5- or 30-min versions if I do use it on lager glue ups. Failing that I use PRF Glue from Ureka adhesives which gives me a much longer open time and is fully compatible with chemically enhanced timbers it's just expensive!
I used to use a lot of aliphatic resin and cascamite, but found myself doing a lot of work with accoya, so transitioned to PU witht hat, its definitley a learning curve but i hardly ever use other glues now. The strength and speed is just fantastic, plus the cost. Itjust can be a little tricky to work with
That is by far the best wood work tip I’ve seen on TH-cam in a long time- at least the most useful one for me . Thanks for the videos- Any of the screws left for the carvex fix?
I've only just discovered your channel and I love it. Not click-baity, just a very solid skillset that you describe very well. Do you have any techniques that for internal corners that won't be painted?
Great tip! I also usually reach for the PU for the reasons you listed, most of all the speed. Do you think a tinted caulk would work for natural finish doors? I usually end up scraping in there with a Stanley blade after the glue has gone off.
Depends if staining or just lacquer I guess. The glue squeeze is what stops the stain from soaking in isn't it, so anything squeezing out will be a pain. You can get clear MS polymer like CT1
The Amazon link for PU glue says it is unavailable. The other link is in the UK. Can’t seem to find tubes of PU glue in the US. We do have gorilla glue in bottles.
I dont really have acess to the american websites to check but try 290ml or 310ml in your search as they are generally the size of the tubes. May bring something up.?
Excellent tip! Can I ask where you source your material. Just watched the gate video and loved the wood. I’m based in North East and a hobby woodworker. Duffield Timber is closest to me but is still about 1hrs drive. Didn’t know if you used local stockist or an online company. Thanks Cragly.
How would it behave when glueing two MDF edges for example? Would the mdf soak it up like it does with almost every other material? Can't seem to find any info on this.
STIX-ALL is known for being pretty sticky on its own! You'll have to show how you actually scrap the PU glue off - something that was missing from this vid.
Top tip...never seen that before. When using sash cramps I always use 4 cramps, 2 on top and 2 below, always counteract the force being generated from below.
Yeah thats the way. I find if the workpiece thickness is thinner than the centre of the screw thread the piece being clamped trys to bow into the bar of the clamp and holds it straight. need clamps both sides for thicker though.
Great tip. We build mostly cope and stick doors in my shop. Just use Titebond 2 and hold the glue back from the inside corner about 3/8". Clamp tight and is solid in 15 minutes. Easy water clean up.
Cheers Stu, this would still work great to provide a caulked internal corner for paint.
You are a very talented woodworker and teacher 🌞
Cheers again Roy
Great tip mate, had some horrible times trying to clean up mouldings etc. which can make you glue shy, but with PU you can’t really go wrong it holds like shit on a blanket!
A tip back at you though is acetone! You’ve probably got some in your make up drawer for getting the nail polish off after the weekend 😉
On a cloth, takes it off beautifully at the soft stage in a pinch, more than likely‘compromise’ adhesion at that spot, but lesser of to evils, great for tools / clamps etc.
Have a great weekend mate 💄 😂
Yeah it sucks the cleanup of non regular surfaces in a corner. Plenty of acetone, I have tried it a bit, maybe ill give it more of a go! thanks
You are a fine craftsman. Great work.
good tip ill try this - update on your scribing method with a 12 or 10mm belt sander - tried that and found it slow and the belt snapped frequently - probably because I had quite a lot to remove on some beech frames (hard timber and probably 20 linear metres to do!) found that a sanding/ abrasive disc on a small angle grinder was actually more accurate and used only one disc! takes some practice but you can get very good results... even if you decide the belt sander is better the disc sander will get you 99 percent of the way first - however must be done outside! dust is not something the customer wouldn't appreciate!
Not sure what you’re scribing, but the table saw can make a great job of it, it’s a fiddle for a small job, but if you have a lot it a game changer and arc of blade gives you a perfect back cut. Just enter at an angle, you’ll figure it out.
Or the collins coping foot is awesome for one off’s
Cheers Rob, yeah The sander is only really for intricate work as like you say its dead slow! Grinder works wonders outside, i tend to rebate the frame with a planer to leave a 10mm lip that can be scribed easier. The ideal tool would be like a rasp on the narrow belt sander haha
What a brilliant idea Ollie, clean up with PU is a pain, don't understand how you dream these up
Haha, I dream woodworking solutions!! haha Literally
Brilliant idea thanks !!
I buy popsicle sticks ( craft store ) and use them to spread glue and sharpen them to clean up areas as you are showing.
thanks Als, ive just read your other comment and catching up on all of them. Ill deffo try it.
Great tip again! I detest PU Glue with a passion due to the mess it creates, but I will be trying this one mate.
I appreciate that PU is needed for ACCOYA and Tri-coya but also hate the limited open time on the stuff so do tend to use the 45 min PU Glue rather than the 5- or 30-min versions if I do use it on lager glue ups. Failing that I use PRF Glue from Ureka adhesives which gives me a much longer open time and is fully compatible with chemically enhanced timbers it's just expensive!
Cheers Kevin i havent heard of the PRF adhesive before. I will check it out. Thanks
I don't use PU glue much but when I do you can pretty much guarantee it ends up somewhere where that I didn't want it. 🙄 😁
Haha!!! I have got pretty good at it now. I try and think of it like cancer, so avoid getting it on my hands at all cost.
Great tip. Pu is a nightmare sometimes on internal corners. Ready for painting. Cheers. Tony
Cheers Tony, Yeah it works great, hopefully its useful to you
Very clever tip - thanks Ollie 🙌🏼
Cheers matey, hope its useful to you
Thanks man amazing work
Glad you like it Bob, Thanks
I don't know any custom wood workers who use UP glue. We all use one of the Tight Bond glues. Maybe it's just a "we always did it that way" thing.
I used to use a lot of aliphatic resin and cascamite, but found myself doing a lot of work with accoya, so transitioned to PU witht hat, its definitley a learning curve but i hardly ever use other glues now. The strength and speed is just fantastic, plus the cost. Itjust can be a little tricky to work with
That is by far the best wood work tip I’ve seen on TH-cam in a long time- at least the most useful one for me . Thanks for the videos- Any of the screws left for the carvex fix?
Cheers David. Its a noce one for painted cabinetry, even if not using PU glue, it deffo makes the painting step easier.
I've only just discovered your channel and I love it. Not click-baity, just a very solid skillset that you describe very well. Do you have any techniques that for internal corners that won't be painted?
IPA Cleaner melts it good
Another smashing tip. Cheers!
Thankyou David,
Excellent trick, Thanks for sharing 👍📐🔨😊
Hi Gary, hope you are well mate, any more video coming?
That's a really good idea, thanks for sharing
thankyou, it works great i use it for all panels and doors now.
Top class as per usual! Nice one!
Cheers James :)
Great tip
Thanks Jason!
Great tip! I also usually reach for the PU for the reasons you listed, most of all the speed. Do you think a tinted caulk would work for natural finish doors? I usually end up scraping in there with a Stanley blade after the glue has gone off.
Depends if staining or just lacquer I guess. The glue squeeze is what stops the stain from soaking in isn't it, so anything squeezing out will be a pain. You can get clear MS polymer like CT1
Great tip and video.
Cheers Nicholas
The Amazon link for PU glue says it is unavailable. The other link is in the UK. Can’t seem to find tubes of PU glue in the US. We do have gorilla glue in bottles.
I dont really have acess to the american websites to check but try 290ml or 310ml in your search as they are generally the size of the tubes. May bring something up.?
Wish you posted this last week 🤦🏻 ❤
Haha, been on the glue ups?
@@BradshawJoinery Yeup last week, great tip for next time 💃❤️🍻🎯
Great video !!! thanks
I use pu glue a lot when laminating beams and sticking down flooring and the best thing to clean it off of anything is spray foam gun cleaner.
Cheers matey, Acetone is decent too, and probably easier to use.
Nice one 👏👏
Great tips,thanks a lot.👍
Cheers Allan
Good video and tip, as usual, thanks. Any issues with using epoxy adhesive with Accoya? Extremely strong, gap filling, no foaming.
I dont think so, but i cannot remeber as i have never used it.
Brilliant
Cheers Trevor
Excellent tip! Can I ask where you source your material. Just watched the gate video and loved the wood. I’m based in North East and a hobby woodworker. Duffield Timber is closest to me but is still about 1hrs drive. Didn’t know if you used local stockist or an online company. Thanks Cragly.
Lathams for Accoya. thankyou!
Aye. Thumbs up 👍. Excellent tip. Thank you.
Thankyou!! :D It works really well this
That's another great tip - I'm going to coin a new phrase - "a bradshaw belter" - feel free to use it :)
How would it behave when glueing two MDF edges for example? Would the mdf soak it up like it does with almost every other material? Can't seem to find any info on this.
Itlle work good, this stuff is very Thick so wont soak up too easy.
Isopropyl alcohol is great for cleaning polyurethane glue from sticky fingers.
Cheers Chris. I went to school with a chris Wheeler, i doubt youre the same person.
I've always felt that Gorilla Wood Glue is a lot stronger than the Gorilla PU glue.
I think the same, stuff is so strong. Mind you never tried PU glue..
@@thomasbroker69 How can you think the same if you've never tried it?
@@Thestripper1 I misread I thought you meant Gorilla normal glue . I meant the PU glue in the video, never even seen PU Gorilla
Sorry Ollie to disturb you again, but I can see that you use PU a lot, but I never see you moistening the wood. I thought this was essential for PU?
Hi David, it says to, but in reality there is always moisture in the air/timber. Ive not had an issue tbh!
Have you tries cascarez 10 min glue?
I havent no, thanks ill look
STIX-ALL is known for being pretty sticky on its own!
You'll have to show how you actually scrap the PU glue off - something that was missing from this vid.
Just let it set then sharp chisel to near the surface. then sand.
Have you tried that Gorilla glue it's messy stuff
PU GLue is effectively gorilla glue. Its like a Vacuum cleaner is a Hoover. Just a brand
Lottttta work look at easy pur 250
Solvent based pvcu window cleaner gets it off and dirt cheap.
Cheers Benjamin, Acetone is good too, along with foam cleaner.
👍
Thankyou
is that coffee????
......Or not to use PU glue in joint like this. Use PVA instead. Greetings.
Maybe, But id be home and used less clamps by the time your first ones dry?
Great tip
Cheers Bezo
Great video !!!, thanks
Cheers Michael! :)