Brilliant, informative and thorough. You're a credit to your profession, such a shame so many people are taken in by cowboys, or trust prong damp meter readings to inform decisions about huge outlay. I'm an amateur property developer and have restored several period homes, I have yet to come across a damp problem that wasn't caused by a simple drainage or ventilation issue. Yet still people insist on blocking air vents. Drive and patio companies are the worst offenders.
+Spencer Wilton Thanks for the kind comments Spencer - we copped a lot of flak in the past, but times are moving on and I think there is a better understanding of these things now than there was. We shall see - there is still an active damp industry, but a LOT smaller than it was..
Sir, I came across your website and this youtube channel to which I have just subscribed, happened upon this by a "damp" salt meter deal on hotukdeals and visited the Amazon UK site and thankfully seen your 1 star review which I always check ;) this led me to this video and has seriously opened my eyes...never knew this world existed. Thank you and will now seek to educate myself further, any books or material you suggest other than your website would be greatly appreciated. As others have already credited you, I thank you again for being scholar and a gentleman to this profession and acting on behalf of those that life myself have little knowledge in this field. Cheers buddy!
Thanks this is the first video Ive watched in your series, but I will view the rest with interest. I have recently had a survey done and have been considering my options, I now intend to investigate further and not rush into have the damp proofing work. Thanks...Malcolm
You can make this a TV show. Dry my house. X-) This " rising damp" obcession is growing in my country ( Czech republic ). It´s paradise for scammers and pseudoscience. Whole building are torned down because it would be too expensive to stop raising damp with those scam companies :( There is one thing I would like to ask you though. One winter we had flood in our basement/cellar due to hight underground water level. There was no water in on the ground of the first floor, but we had walls / (plaster) soak wet there. How is that possible?
How do I find a decent specialist to give me advice and tell me know I need. I have been told we have rising damp but I am not sure now I have seen this.
great videos peter I have watch every one of them in one sitting. Would you mind clarifying a couple of points for my understanding; How do the salts get into the brickwork? I understood them to be carried by moisture? are you suggesting that no DPC's are necessary at all for houses? for instances where moisture exists between the brickwork and an internal non porous paint/ gypsum plaster how does moisture usually get there? I'd be greatful for your thougths, cheers.
Here in New Zealand the #builders dont now what flashings are for .....LOL... really, most houses here they do not have #DPC (damp proof course) or flashing plates between the concrete rebated block and the bricks, they use a bitumous paint which is not much good. Its a joke, and they wonder why the have leaky houses...hahaha. We need city and guilds and proper trade training boards really badly, the standard of workmanship is horrid. One waterproofing membrane contractor I used did not know his own company literature about not discharging storm water onto his bituminous hot melt membrane, when I pointed it out it was almost in disbelief, prove it he said, so I did, its not rocket science, some tradesmen are lazy, they all after the quick $$$buck!
Interesting videos, sir. I have a question - you refer to cold damp air getting in during the IR camera bit. It's my perception that the warm air in the room would be the damp air, comparable to the cold air. Therefore the problem with the cold spots being that water in the warm air from the house condenses there. What say you? Great videos though, we need a Portland and raised concrete slab revolution.
my house has rising condensation marks on bottom of internal walls, the house used to have wooden floors, now replaced with solid floors, i don't see any air bricks outside as its been re-plastered, but all the other houses similar to mine have air bricks, they must have plastered over them and even raised the ground a bit, can you help please, why condensation on internal walls?
Hi Peter. I'm from Newcastle/Northumberland area and have a damp proofing business. I've had training, however the training was delivered by the same people I buy my materials from. Sometimes when I'm stuck for the solution to a damp problem and I ask for advice from these guys, I get the feeling I'm being pushed unnecessary products, and I've observed contradictions in advice. Could you recommend somewhere I could get the correct training so I can provide a better service and carry your message further. Thanks
Gavin - its not easy - at the moment very little training around - you could see what courses are being run by John Edwards - Edwards Hart - in Cardiff - he goes all over the country doing BS 7913 training - and is very good. The PCA are a bunch of sharks - just trying to sell chemicals and insurances - have a look at the www.heritage-house.org and heritage-counsulting.org websites and if you have questions, I'm happy to try and guide you - peter@heritage-house.org We are looking to start doing some training courses, but having little training experience, I'm not sure what the best way to set it up is.. I'm looking at doing courses here - where we talk through the science and theory of damp, and then look at the practicalities of business based around it. Damp proofing really isnt the answer - but there is still a very good business out there in solving damp issues - just better solutions than injecting and tanking! Happy to help a local - I have a cottage in Weardale and up there most weekends - family from Sunderland..
Hi had CIGA the regulatory body come around recently they said. The inspection identified sever fracturing of the pebbledash render coating which is likely to be contributory, however, it is also noted that inner dividing walls between rooms and the party wall between properties is also similarly affected. This would therefore suggest that the laminate flooring may also be a significant factor, as sub soil moisture attempts to slowly evaporate laminate flooring is restricting this evaporation and surrounding plaster work on the periphery is affected due to the absorbent nature of the plaster. Any truth in this for damp?
Sounds like they are looking for excuses to be honest. Laminate flooring is over what? Concrete floors? I'd say they are having you on. I agree that in theory floors can push water into walls - but ciga havent a clue - I'll almost bet they are looking at our website and trying to collect excuses to throw at people without understanding what is going on. Have they looked at the cavity? Is the fill wet? Are the ties wet? Need more info - but this is fairly typical for ciga to play games - are you aware of civalli - www.civalli.com/ who can possibly help too. I work with them a fair bit..
I disagree that it is "fraud". It is more likely to be considered incompetence. Finding the broken drainage pipe and making good will still be expensive, but it will not involve a costly and most likely pointless "damp-proofing exercise" (for which the homeowner should be grateful.) What should be emphasised is that diagnosis with only one tool (in which some people have unshakable faith) is likely to give erroneous results. (The use of the thermal imaging camera was especially enlightening (no pun))
No worries - it's not always easy when in a hurry to document something with clients hanging around, contractors waiting, and so on. We are learning though - and I think our videos are a little better now than they were - if not a bit longer.. .:-)
To be honest it got better, it was mainly at the beginning. I run a building company (small just 4 of us) and I am always looking for other ideas and solutions. Damp is something of a black art, or made out to be. I usually pass it on to a damp firm, but have had mixed reports so wanted to see what I could learn. This is all very easy to understand. It seems to me that letting a house breathe is top of the list of needs.
Jane - any help I can give, I'm more than happy. The golden mantra is breathability. On the heritage-house.org site is loads of stuff - but essentially, old solid walled houses need to breathe - to have lime mortar and plaster, and to be well ventilated. Do that, strip modern materials, and they will end up warm and dry. As a small building coy, you have a captive market too - if you train in this stuff, you would be run off your feet, the demand for conservation work is there - but there aren't the people to do it. Damp is NOT a black art - there are only about three variables: Temperature, moisture content of the air, and temp of the building fabric. Rising damp does not exist and never has - EVERYTHING is temperature related - cold wall = interstitial moisture condenses and wall gets damp. If it can evaporate when conditions change - and has lime plaster, lime pointing - damp never accumulates. Cement render and gypsum plaster trap moisture and wall gets wet. Simple as that. Condensation is when air drops below dew point - so keep house above dew point - ie, above 15 degrees C and 50 to 55% Relative Humidity (total or absolute moisture of about 8 grams/m3 of air) the dew point is about 4 degrees, so condensation never happens. Raise the dew point to 10 degrees by raising the RH to 75% by not extracting bathroom, kitchen etc., and condensation everywhere. Simple.
Brilliant, informative and thorough. You're a credit to your profession, such a shame so many people are taken in by cowboys, or trust prong damp meter readings to inform decisions about huge outlay. I'm an amateur property developer and have restored several period homes, I have yet to come across a damp problem that wasn't caused by a simple drainage or ventilation issue. Yet still people insist on blocking air vents. Drive and patio companies are the worst offenders.
+Spencer Wilton Thanks for the kind comments Spencer - we copped a lot of flak in the past, but times are moving on and I think there is a better understanding of these things now than there was. We shall see - there is still an active damp industry, but a LOT smaller than it was..
Spencer Wilton
Sir, I came across your website and this youtube channel to which I have just subscribed, happened upon this by a "damp" salt meter deal on hotukdeals and visited the Amazon UK site and thankfully seen your 1 star review which I always check ;) this led me to this video and has seriously opened my eyes...never knew this world existed. Thank you and will now seek to educate myself further, any books or material you suggest other than your website would be greatly appreciated. As others have already credited you, I thank you again for being scholar and a gentleman to this profession and acting on behalf of those that life myself have little knowledge in this field. Cheers buddy!
shit got real when he pulled out the thermal imaging camera, great video
Very interesting investigation Peter! Just shows not to believe everything at first sight and think yourself instead of handing over good money.
Fascinating video Peter thank you for posting .
So grateful for these videos. Thanks
Thanks this is the first video Ive watched in your series, but I will view the rest with interest.
I have recently had a survey done and have been considering my options, I now intend to investigate further and not rush into have the damp proofing work. Thanks...Malcolm
Any help needed, let us know - we can always try to comment from photos.. peter@heritage-house.org
You can make this a TV show. Dry my house. X-) This " rising damp" obcession is growing in my country ( Czech republic ). It´s paradise for scammers and pseudoscience. Whole building are torned down because it would be too expensive to stop raising damp with those scam companies :(
There is one thing I would like to ask you though. One winter we had flood in our basement/cellar due to hight underground water level. There was no water in on the ground of the first floor, but we had walls / (plaster) soak wet there. How is that possible?
How do I find a decent specialist to give me advice and tell me know I need. I have been told we have rising damp but I am not sure now I have seen this.
great videos peter I have watch every one of them in one sitting. Would you mind clarifying a couple of points for my understanding; How do the salts get into the brickwork? I understood them to be carried by moisture? are you suggesting that no DPC's are necessary at all for houses? for instances where moisture exists between the brickwork and an internal non porous paint/ gypsum plaster how does moisture usually get there? I'd be greatful for your thougths, cheers.
I'm writing a page on the website : www.heritage-house.org/salt-damage-in-old-buildings.html
Here in New Zealand the #builders dont now what flashings are for .....LOL... really, most houses here they do not have #DPC (damp proof course) or flashing plates between the concrete rebated block and the bricks, they use a bitumous paint which is not much good.
Its a joke, and they wonder why the have leaky houses...hahaha.
We need city and guilds and proper trade training boards really badly, the standard of workmanship is horrid.
One waterproofing membrane contractor I used did not know his own company literature about not discharging storm water onto his bituminous hot melt membrane, when I pointed it out it was almost in disbelief, prove it he said, so I did, its not rocket science, some tradesmen are lazy, they all after the quick $$$buck!
great video, ive known they were crooks for years on end....
The cat was never seen again.
Interesting videos, sir. I have a question - you refer to cold damp air getting in during the IR camera bit. It's my perception that the warm air in the room would be the damp air, comparable to the cold air. Therefore the problem with the cold spots being that water in the warm air from the house condenses there.
What say you?
Great videos though, we need a Portland and raised concrete slab revolution.
About right... ! I'm not saying cold damp air gets in, just that some areas are cold and therefore encourage condensation...
my house has rising condensation marks on bottom of internal walls, the house used to have wooden floors, now replaced with solid floors, i don't see any air bricks outside as its been re-plastered, but all the other houses similar to mine have air bricks, they must have plastered over them and even raised the ground a bit, can you help please, why condensation on internal walls?
Hi Peter. I'm from Newcastle/Northumberland area and have a damp proofing business. I've had training, however the training was delivered by the same people I buy my materials from. Sometimes when I'm stuck for the solution to a damp problem and I ask for advice from these guys, I get the feeling I'm being pushed unnecessary products, and I've observed contradictions in advice. Could you recommend somewhere I could get the correct training so I can provide a better service and carry your message further. Thanks
Gavin - its not easy - at the moment very little training around - you could see what courses are being run by John Edwards - Edwards Hart - in Cardiff - he goes all over the country doing BS 7913 training - and is very good. The PCA are a bunch of sharks - just trying to sell chemicals and insurances - have a look at the www.heritage-house.org and heritage-counsulting.org websites and if you have questions, I'm happy to try and guide you - peter@heritage-house.org We are looking to start doing some training courses, but having little training experience, I'm not sure what the best way to set it up is.. I'm looking at doing courses here - where we talk through the science and theory of damp, and then look at the practicalities of business based around it. Damp proofing really isnt the answer - but there is still a very good business out there in solving damp issues - just better solutions than injecting and tanking! Happy to help a local - I have a cottage in Weardale and up there most weekends - family from Sunderland..
Hi had CIGA the regulatory body come around recently they said. The inspection identified sever fracturing of the pebbledash render coating which is likely to be contributory,
however, it is also noted that inner dividing walls between rooms and the party wall between properties is
also similarly affected.
This would therefore suggest that the laminate flooring may also be a significant factor, as sub soil moisture
attempts to slowly evaporate laminate flooring is restricting this evaporation and surrounding plaster work
on the periphery is affected due to the absorbent nature of the plaster. Any truth in this for damp?
Sounds like they are looking for excuses to be honest. Laminate flooring is over what? Concrete floors? I'd say they are having you on. I agree that in theory floors can push water into walls - but ciga havent a clue - I'll almost bet they are looking at our website and trying to collect excuses to throw at people without understanding what is going on. Have they looked at the cavity? Is the fill wet? Are the ties wet? Need more info - but this is fairly typical for ciga to play games - are you aware of civalli - www.civalli.com/ who can possibly help too. I work with them a fair bit..
What is the brand of that thermal camera please?
i wish you could look at my house!!
Peter are you able to visit my house in lincoln? Do you have a website with contact details on?
Peter, I am very impressed with your approach. What area do you work? Do you ever cover yorkshire? Thanks
felicity62 We work all over the country - can email peter@heritage-house.org if you like and I'll see what we can do..
what make of thermal camera would you recommend Peter and price range ??
+artisan998 We use the FLIR range - I think we have E40BX ' s - not cheap, but good in trained hands.
What are your thoughts on the use of tanking membranes and plasterboard as apposed to rendering?
Holmfirth , England
do you have a Facebook page Peter?
Love your work
Kell Davis www.heritage-consulting.org or www.heritage-house.org..
Sorry what was that machine you used to test the brick dust
A carbide meter - water reacts with calcium carbide and pressurises vessel which is calibrated to show the total moisture content of the sample..
Thank you very much
I disagree that it is "fraud". It is more likely to be considered incompetence. Finding the broken drainage pipe and making good will still be expensive, but it will not involve a costly and most likely pointless "damp-proofing exercise" (for which the homeowner should be grateful.)
What should be emphasised is that diagnosis with only one tool (in which some people have unshakable faith) is likely to give erroneous results. (The use of the thermal imaging camera was especially enlightening (no pun))
Interesting thanks - best to move the camera very slowly, if at all though as makes it hard to watch.
No worries - it's not always easy when in a hurry to document something with clients hanging around, contractors waiting, and so on. We are learning though - and I think our videos are a little better now than they were - if not a bit longer.. .:-)
To be honest it got better, it was mainly at the beginning. I run a building company (small just 4 of us) and I am always looking for other ideas and solutions. Damp is something of a black art, or made out to be. I usually pass it on to a damp firm, but have had mixed reports so wanted to see what I could learn. This is all very easy to understand. It seems to me that letting a house breathe is top of the list of needs.
Jane - any help I can give, I'm more than happy. The golden mantra is breathability. On the heritage-house.org site is loads of stuff - but essentially, old solid walled houses need to breathe - to have lime mortar and plaster, and to be well ventilated. Do that, strip modern materials, and they will end up warm and dry. As a small building coy, you have a captive market too - if you train in this stuff, you would be run off your feet, the demand for conservation work is there - but there aren't the people to do it. Damp is NOT a black art - there are only about three variables: Temperature, moisture content of the air, and temp of the building fabric. Rising damp does not exist and never has - EVERYTHING is temperature related - cold wall = interstitial moisture condenses and wall gets damp. If it can evaporate when conditions change - and has lime plaster, lime pointing - damp never accumulates. Cement render and gypsum plaster trap moisture and wall gets wet. Simple as that. Condensation is when air drops below dew point - so keep house above dew point - ie, above 15 degrees C and 50 to 55% Relative Humidity (total or absolute moisture of about 8 grams/m3 of air) the dew point is about 4 degrees, so condensation never happens. Raise the dew point to 10 degrees by raising the RH to 75% by not extracting bathroom, kitchen etc., and condensation everywhere. Simple.