Nice video, I do have one note. If you look on the face of that adapter it has two divets in the face of it. Those divets are designed to allow you to tighten the unit with a spanner wrench. Overall great video, I enjoy the content. I've been looking at getting at getting one of these bikes for a minute now.
My favorite part about the Chondas(Hawk 250, TBR7, Bozz 250, etc.) is everyone can have the same bike out of the box, but each motorcycle becomes its work of art even when we all do the same upgrades. I mounted my cooler higher and stretched out the lines far. Nice work! FYI, I would love it if you checked out my TBR7's oil cooler setup on my blog.
Moto Taco love your videos, keep it up! Been riding a Hawk for 4 years now and absolutely love upgrading and tinkering on it. Chonda's, when understood that they aren't Japanese bikes, can be so much fun! Thanks again!!
This is pretty interesting. I wonder if one could install an actual oil filter using this kit, and whether or not the oil pump would be able to maintain sufficient pressure with a filter. If this kit is cheap enough, I may try adding a filter onto my old Lifan 200 engine as an experiment.
@@juniorhenderson7512 No, I haven't done it yet. I'm still working on finishing the swap into my old XL125S frame. Once that's all finished, I'll probably give it a shot. If it works, this would be a great way to increase the oil life and longevity of these engines. If not, I'll just buy a 250cc and be happy I had an excuse to upgrade. Lol
@@chasebarber6154 It would be great if it works. These engines really NEED an oil filter. I think the manufacturer/designers purposely leave them with out it to for maximizing profits. I'm also trying to figure out how to get a small electric engine pre-oiler to hooked up. It's said that 80% of engine wear acuurs at startup.
@@juniorhenderson7512 I don't have a Hawk, but will the electric starter work with the killswitch engaged? If so, spinning it over for a few seconds before resetting the killswitch should provide plenty of oiling to prevent dry starts. If not, you can always use the kickstarter with the killswitch engaged to achieve the same result. The forces exerted by turning the engine over are far less than those exerted by the engine running, so you're not going to cause damage with either of these methods because of the oil film that remains on the parts. As far as why they don't include a filter, it's definitely a combination of cost savings and not wanting to have to re-engineer the crankcase of the engine in order to accommodate such a change. After all, if this setup works so well for Honda, why should they bother to change it?
They do have an oil filter. Its a centrifugal type mounted to the crankshaft inside the clutch cover. Its the same type that millions of Hondas have used for years.
Thanks a Zillion Mr. Mototaco. I got the "Big Bore 300" kit with 16mm pin. Everything is good except the sleeve will not go into the gearcase. My new cylinder sleeve is 75.5 mm and the gearcase bore is 74.3mm. How did you get yours to fit? ...The 73mm bore kit, what I thought I ordered, is now out of stock. Ideas? RSVP
Would be great to see how the oil cooler is holding up. Afterall, it is an aftermarket part. I have did some things to my hawk and tho the bikes are not made with a cooler it is definitely durability insurance. Thanks for this video!
Hi love the video what’s the name of the oil adapter that goes to the engine and split valve ? Please name or where to buy , the oil cooler I order didn’t bring that adapter please heeelp!
First, How much cooler does this keep your engine? Second, could you have mounted the cooler upside down, so that the connections were all away from the exhaust?
Right and being reversed gravity is working in your favor. The better you flow the more it's gonna cool and not cook that oil . You saw the same thing I did right off the bat if worried place it higher up for line slack .
So I also installed that sorta oil cooler and oil displacing adapter and the oil pressure was abysmal. It was hardly pumping oil into the cooler. You could see from the side glass window that the oil was not circulating through the system. I had to remove that whole setup cause the engine was running almost dry. Didn't work for me unfortunately. ☹️☹️☹️
I see some videos show the radiator with the holes facing down. Seems wrong as they supply the syringe for the purpose of top fill and all the oil would drain out with engine off. How did you determine that the left side of the radiator was input and hose went to bottom hole at engine?
Hello, it's the best video I've seen on youtube, on how to install an oil cooler on a motorcycle, it's an excellent video. And I have a question: why did you install the oil cooler with the intakes up, what is your theory about it, or did you just install it that way for aesthetics?
I see some videos where they mounted the radiator with the holes facing down. Seems wrong as the syringe is supplied to top fill and ALL the oil would drain out to crank case with engine shut off. How did you determine which hose went where...ie...left side radiator was input to bottom hole at engine?
I see some videos where they mounted radiator with the input and output holes facing down. Seems wrong because the syringe comes to fill the 125cc from the top (would not need syringe unless facing up) and ALL the oil would drain back to the crank from the radiator when engine is turned off. How did you determine what hose went where?
How hot did the oil get before this? Guessing what the bike really needs is the proper oil for summer heat. I only have a CG150 so no experience with the 250s here, but 15w50 M1 keeps mine happy and cool, 106f yesterday.
Whats the point of installing an oil cooler on a splash lubricated engine? Oil can't circulate through an oil cooler without oil pressure. Trying to figure out how that works
This does have an oil pump. It has to get oil to the head and valve train. This is not an oil cooled engine, but the added oil cooler does help with cooling
air cooled dual sports have a large following of using shell rotella 15W-40 diesel oil because it mimics a wet clutch oil so well. you are safe to use it as long as its the exact same one i used. shell caught onto this and started putting a picture of a motorcycle next to the diesel freight truck and smaller truck thats pictured on the container. 10k+ miles on the hawk 250 so far and no issues with it aswell as a very large following of people using it on their DR650's, KLR's etc. but i do see what you mean. my cheaper bikes i will use shell rotella. my DR i prefer ECSTAR 10W-40 motorcycle oil
Can you record a video of changing the oil with this cooler on. Because I can’t seem to find the easiest way of doing it without making a mess and I don’t really wanna take it apart every single time I change the oil.
You could tip it and replace what’s in the cooler but I change the oil so often I usually just leave the residual inside of the cooler, let the lines drain and cap it and put new oil in the crankcase. I do check the oil screen though. Found like a couple paint chips but never any metal shavings or nothing
Hey buddy quick question. I installed this on my bike a while back and it’s time for an oil change, once I drain the oil do I have to add additional oil to the cooler again?
I typically use my sight gauge for reference regarding this, but since the oil cooler entry and exit holes are facing upward in my installation. I think only a little bit drains out the hose, not the entirety of the cooler itself. So when I re-service with new oil, it probably mixes with a small amount of old oil. Which isn’t a big deal at all. In any case you can service the recommended amount, run it, and then wait a few minutes for the oil to settle back down to the bottom of the crank case. And if it shows its low when looking at the gauge in a level position (I put a regular carpenter level on my seat) then you can top it off with a small amount until it’s halfway or just above the halfway mark. That’s been my practice ever since the cooler installation
it should circulate your oil just fine, and leak checking will just be periodically checking the lines to see if theres an oil drip, othjerwise just tighten the lines as you see fit
You do "some" good vids. I'm fine with my Hawk but if I had it to do again, I would thoroughly review the different sellers. A 250 is not a 230. I am sure it is emissions related in being marketed as a 250 but maybe SOME do sell an actual 250? There is a mod kit to make it a 250 or even 300. For decent highway use the bike needs carb attention. Which is another emissions related tactic, I'm sure. Itsa neat street/trail bike built to standards that did great a few years ago and its good to see that type of machine is still available!
Y u put the filter on the return to the engine .that would not make sense. The filter should be on the line thats carring the oil from the engine to the core.reason y i seid that .the oil should filter before it go in the core .
@@mototaco6603 Do you have to remove the radiator when doing oil changes now? What's the procedure? The radiator's inlet and outlet's being on top seems (to me) like it would be a headache.
NO NEED TO ORIENTATE THOSE BANJO BOLTS, THEY ARE DESIGNED TO WORK NO MATTER WHERE THE HOLE IN THE BANJO BOLT IS AS THE FEMALE FITTING HAS A GROOVE IN IT THAT PASSES THE OIL INTO THE LINE, WHAT IS IMPORTANT THAT THOSE LINES ARE TIGHT, NOT WHERE THE HOLE IN THE BANJO BOLT FACES.
Its pretty pointless as the radiator is too close to the exhaust that get way to hot you should have placed the radiator next to the horn plus the oil lines are way to close to the cylinder it defeats the object your trying to achieve radiators are ment to be above the engine not below as most of the heat is at the bottom
Nice video, I do have one note. If you look on the face of that adapter it has two divets in the face of it. Those divets are designed to allow you to tighten the unit with a spanner wrench. Overall great video, I enjoy the content. I've been looking at getting at getting one of these bikes for a minute now.
This is really useful information, my bad for missing that
Or gently use a long screwdriver between the two bolts to tighten it.
My favorite part about the Chondas(Hawk 250, TBR7, Bozz 250, etc.) is everyone can have the same bike out of the box, but each motorcycle becomes its work of art even when we all do the same upgrades. I mounted my cooler higher and stretched out the lines far. Nice work! FYI, I would love it if you checked out my TBR7's oil cooler setup on my blog.
Moto Taco love your videos, keep it up! Been riding a Hawk for 4 years now and absolutely love upgrading and tinkering on it. Chonda's, when understood that they aren't Japanese bikes, can be so much fun! Thanks again!!
You bet man enjoy that hawk. I’ve gotten so much fun out of these cheap dual sports. Hilarious value for the money
Want to see the 300 performance. Nice video.
Dude, your videos are awesome...detailed and comprehensive...thanks!
I hope you’re having a good week. Praying for you, man
This is pretty interesting. I wonder if one could install an actual oil filter using this kit, and whether or not the oil pump would be able to maintain sufficient pressure with a filter. If this kit is cheap enough, I may try adding a filter onto my old Lifan 200 engine as an experiment.
Have you done it yet? I was wondering the same thing. Let me know how it works out and what filter you used.
@@juniorhenderson7512 No, I haven't done it yet. I'm still working on finishing the swap into my old XL125S frame. Once that's all finished, I'll probably give it a shot. If it works, this would be a great way to increase the oil life and longevity of these engines. If not, I'll just buy a 250cc and be happy I had an excuse to upgrade. Lol
@@chasebarber6154 It would be great if it works. These engines really NEED an oil filter. I think the manufacturer/designers purposely leave them with out it to for maximizing profits. I'm also trying to figure out how to get a small electric engine pre-oiler to hooked up. It's said that 80% of engine wear acuurs at startup.
@@juniorhenderson7512 I don't have a Hawk, but will the electric starter work with the killswitch engaged? If so, spinning it over for a few seconds before resetting the killswitch should provide plenty of oiling to prevent dry starts. If not, you can always use the kickstarter with the killswitch engaged to achieve the same result. The forces exerted by turning the engine over are far less than those exerted by the engine running, so you're not going to cause damage with either of these methods because of the oil film that remains on the parts.
As far as why they don't include a filter, it's definitely a combination of cost savings and not wanting to have to re-engineer the crankcase of the engine in order to accommodate such a change. After all, if this setup works so well for Honda, why should they bother to change it?
They do have an oil filter. Its a centrifugal type mounted to the crankshaft inside the clutch cover. Its the same type that millions of Hondas have used for years.
A grinder lock nut wrench will work perfectly to tighten it, thats what the 2 indent holes are for.
I put spacers dropping the front fender about an inch. So it sits just above it and funnels in air while still being protected.
Thanks a Zillion Mr. Mototaco. I got the "Big Bore 300" kit with 16mm pin. Everything is good except the sleeve will not go into the gearcase. My new cylinder sleeve is 75.5 mm and the gearcase bore is 74.3mm. How did you get yours to fit? ...The 73mm bore kit, what I thought I ordered, is now out of stock. Ideas? RSVP
Would be great to see how the oil cooler is holding up. Afterall, it is an aftermarket part. I have did some things to my hawk and
tho the bikes are not made with a cooler it is definitely durability insurance. Thanks for this video!
i do a routine check on it on my 10k miles video
Very cool hawk mods. I had a hawk but it was removed by Ida. I'm going to do the same things with a brozz 250 I plan on purchasing soon.
thats unfortunate to hear. i assume the water damage was too severe for recovery?
relative to the oil flow, shouldn't the oil strainer come before the radiator? That way debris shouldn't accumulate in the radiator.
Hi love the video what’s the name of the oil adapter that goes to the engine and split valve ? Please name or where to buy , the oil cooler I order didn’t bring that adapter please heeelp!
the 2 holes in the face of the plug are for a pin spanner wrench
First, How much cooler does this keep your engine? Second, could you have mounted the cooler upside down, so that the connections were all away from the exhaust?
you certainly could have. you can also mount it sideways depending on the application
Right and being reversed gravity is working in your favor. The better you flow the more it's gonna cool and not cook that oil . You saw the same thing I did right off the bat if worried place it higher up for line slack .
So I also installed that sorta oil cooler and oil displacing adapter and the oil pressure was abysmal. It was hardly pumping oil into the cooler. You could see from the side glass window that the oil was not circulating through the system. I had to remove that whole setup cause the engine was running almost dry. Didn't work for me unfortunately. ☹️☹️☹️
I see some videos show the radiator with the holes facing down. Seems wrong as they supply the syringe for the purpose of top fill and all the oil would drain out with engine off. How did you determine that the left side of the radiator was input and hose went to bottom hole at engine?
If you dont fill up the oil cooler with oil and just fill the engine once oil starts flowing through it youll be short on oil in the engine?
The two holes in the middle of that drain plug looks like there's a some sort of spanner wrench designed to tighten that up.
Hello, it's the best video I've seen on youtube, on how to install an oil cooler on a motorcycle, it's an excellent video. And I have a question: why did you install the oil cooler with the intakes up, what is your theory about it, or did you just install it that way for aesthetics?
No reason really, i may flip it because installing it the other way allows for the excess dirty oil in the cooler to drain aswell
@@mototaco6603 Gracias por responder, es que veo que la mayoría lo instala así, hasta en autos.
I see some videos where they mounted the radiator with the holes facing down. Seems wrong as the syringe is supplied to top fill and ALL the oil would drain out to crank case with engine shut off. How did you determine which hose went where...ie...left side radiator was input to bottom hole at engine?
I see some videos where they mounted radiator with the input and output holes facing down. Seems wrong because the syringe comes to fill the 125cc from the top (would not need syringe unless facing up) and ALL the oil would drain back to the crank from the radiator when engine is turned off. How did you determine what hose went where?
Honestly I would keep it farther away from the front as possible.. I would keep it far where it's cooler so the oil can cool a little more
How hot did the oil get before this? Guessing what the bike really needs is the proper oil for summer heat. I only have a CG150 so no experience with the 250s here, but 15w50 M1 keeps mine happy and cool, 106f yesterday.
Very helpful great explanation and great job
Wanted to get one, but the Amazon link is no longer in stock!
would this be any usefull or just placebo ?
the difference is certainly noticeable
Whats the point of installing an oil cooler on a splash lubricated engine? Oil can't circulate through an oil cooler without oil pressure. Trying to figure out how that works
This does have an oil pump. It has to get oil to the head and valve train. This is not an oil cooled engine, but the added oil cooler does help with cooling
Why do I see some people put it in the top of the cylinder
Where you marked the line on the plug, did it end up being on top or bottom after you screwed the plug in place?
Any chance there’s a replacement for this since it’s not available on Amazon?!
Hi I noticed I have the very same mods as you on my Bike.. I am wondering whats your Jetting settings on the Nibbi?
Is it a worthwhile upgrade? I live in norther VA?
how can he tell if the bottom line or the top line is in our out?
What is the thread pitch on the lower crankcase drain plug? PLEASE ANSWER.
duralast 250cc ATV lawnmower battery/ Autozone
Is the oil your using motorcycle oil? I haven't been able to find that in motorcycle oil.
air cooled dual sports have a large following of using shell rotella 15W-40 diesel oil because it mimics a wet clutch oil so well. you are safe to use it as long as its the exact same one i used. shell caught onto this and started putting a picture of a motorcycle next to the diesel freight truck and smaller truck thats pictured on the container. 10k+ miles on the hawk 250 so far and no issues with it aswell as a very large following of people using it on their DR650's, KLR's etc. but i do see what you mean. my cheaper bikes i will use shell rotella. my DR i prefer ECSTAR 10W-40 motorcycle oil
Can you record a video of changing the oil with this cooler on. Because I can’t seem to find the easiest way of doing it without making a mess and I don’t really wanna take it apart every single time I change the oil.
You could tip it and replace what’s in the cooler but I change the oil so often I usually just leave the residual inside of the cooler, let the lines drain and cap it and put new oil in the crankcase. I do check the oil screen though. Found like a couple paint chips but never any metal shavings or nothing
Is that the same engine as the ccm 230? A 167fmm?
How can i install in Yamaha ybr 125
Hey buddy quick question. I installed this on my bike a while back and it’s time for an oil change, once I drain the oil do I have to add additional oil to the cooler again?
I typically use my sight gauge for reference regarding this, but since the oil cooler entry and exit holes are facing upward in my installation. I think only a little bit drains out the hose, not the entirety of the cooler itself. So when I re-service with new oil, it probably mixes with a small amount of old oil. Which isn’t a big deal at all. In any case you can service the recommended amount, run it, and then wait a few minutes for the oil to settle back down to the bottom of the crank case. And if it shows its low when looking at the gauge in a level position (I put a regular carpenter level on my seat) then you can top it off with a small amount until it’s halfway or just above the halfway mark. That’s been my practice ever since the cooler installation
Running that line so close to the exhaust nearly negates the whole purpose of cooling the oil!
How do I know if I installed it right or if it's sucking in air/ leaking
it should circulate your oil just fine, and leak checking will just be periodically checking the lines to see if theres an oil drip, othjerwise just tighten the lines as you see fit
it pumps the oil in and out of the same hole is that an issue?
Not at all because in one of the hoses there is an oil screen
Very cool!
Thank u !
Let’s go riding together… I live in Texas
Hi is it effective that oil cooler is the oil circulating good if possible take off the return line to see thanx
Which hole is return and which is feed? Lol.
You do "some" good vids. I'm fine with my Hawk but if I had it to do again, I would thoroughly review the different sellers. A 250 is not a 230. I am sure it is emissions related
in being marketed as a 250 but maybe SOME do sell an actual 250? There is a mod kit to make it a 250 or even 300. For decent highway use the bike needs carb attention. Which is
another emissions related tactic, I'm sure. Itsa neat street/trail bike built to standards
that did great a few years ago and its good to see that type of machine is still available!
Oi yeah!! 😎
🤙
Did you put the -20 in the thumbnail as click bait or did you actually measure the before and after temperature? 😂 Real question
I appreciate the video but Air Cooled Engines have been around for well over 100 years without such an oil cooler :)
@The Commentator
Sorry for the delay but I had to read my comment several times to see where I said it was wrong ;)
Spanner wrench
Y u put the filter on the return to the engine .that would not make sense. The filter should be on the line thats carring the oil from the engine to the core.reason y i seid that .the oil should filter before it go in the core .
Strap wrench
Nace
You never did a top speed video....
Its coming, still have a couple more vids to upload
the oil cooler has to come first
@@mototaco6603 Do you have to remove the radiator when doing oil changes now? What's the procedure? The radiator's inlet and outlet's being on top seems (to me) like it would be a headache.
NO NEED TO ORIENTATE THOSE BANJO BOLTS, THEY ARE DESIGNED TO WORK NO MATTER WHERE THE HOLE IN THE BANJO BOLT IS AS THE FEMALE FITTING HAS A GROOVE IN IT THAT PASSES THE OIL INTO THE LINE, WHAT IS IMPORTANT THAT THOSE LINES ARE TIGHT, NOT WHERE THE HOLE IN THE BANJO BOLT FACES.
thank you for making sure
Ex-military...
Its pretty pointless as the radiator is too close to the exhaust that get way to hot you should have placed the radiator next to the horn plus the oil lines are way to close to the cylinder it defeats the object your trying to achieve radiators are ment to be above the engine not below as most of the heat is at the bottom
Could i connect this up to my existing 2t bikes radiator as a bit of extra cooling ?italjet formula125 renowned for overheating