FAST Ice Climbing Rescue using Micro Traxion
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ธ.ค. 2024
- In this video you will find a quick way to rescue an ice climber utilizing an extended focal point and Micro Traxion. As noted in the video, the Micro Traxion can cause catastrophic rope damage if there is any type of shock load. Before you use this device, it is imperative that you understand the risks associated with its use. Also, this device is not a belay device, so when you are doing the haul, the climber is not assisting you in any way. The climbers rope should have constant tension.
Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.
Check out glacieradventu... to sign up for various Hard Ice courses.
Very cool. I like the way this 5:1 is done.
Thank you for mentioning why not to belay with a microtraxion that was good info.
Great, gad you found is useful
Nice video! You are putting a 2:1 on a 3:1 that makes it a 6:1or did I miss something?
What gloves are you using ?
Hi, thanks for your question. In this case we are just using cheep gas station glows, or the ones you use when doing gardening work, thin, cheep but last as long as the expensive ones when doing a lot of rope work.
Thank you for a great video series :) One question: Why do you always have both a locker and a non-locker on your anchors?
Yeah, thanks for the question.
Short answer, weight saving yet also allowing me to clip my personal safety to the locker if necessary. Also, since the anchor is 'unattended' we want the locker to ensure that if the locker would unclip or loaded 'off axis' for whatever reason, we would still have a locker attached to the screw.
Context: When I entered the industry about 5 years ago we used two non-lockers as it was standard and practiced in the rock climbing world for anchors that were attended. We then moved to one locker and one non-locker, we recognized the thought of the very rare possibility of the non lockers unlocking or being loaded in a weird way via the gate, especially in the somewhat industrial glacier industry we work in. For a time I was using two lockers always at the anchor just for redundancy. At this point I've moved to a locker and non-locker for the reason mentioned in the short answer above.
Let me know if thats clear.
@@MikeReid Thanks for a fast reply! That is clear :) The second half of the short answer was a little bit confusing but I assume it is the non-locker that you are worried about uncliping or being loaded in a bad way. And thanks again for the videos, I learned a lot
@@Elli077 yes, correct with what you had said about the non-locker. Glad you found the video useful.
Great videos! Enjoyed the 5:1. Wondering if you have a pulley to make the haul more efficient where would you add it? By the Tibloc or higher on the new haul / carabiner point? Great videos!
Hey thanks for the comment. Do when you do the actual calculation of MA at each point, it would be more efficient to put a pulley as close to you as possible. In this case it would be the new haul / carabiner point. Now take note, it's 10ths of a percent better so its not some massive advantage so in practical terms either would be fine but I try to put the pulley closest to my pulling force (my body).
@@MikeReid That makes sense, thank you for the reply 😊
Also, what is the length of the prussik you used?
The one in in the video is 5 meters
Putting a locker in the loop of an MMO and locking it back to the anchor is taking things beyond redundant and on to the ridiculous ("just for safety" you say). What you are implying is that an MMO isn't "safe" enough. And then 30 seconds later you take the "just for safety" locker back out.
You don't need to complicate things with stuff that doesn't need to be there, adds/has no value, and uses gear and time unnecessarily.
Other than that, things seemed to be fairly straightforward and efficient.