Although this was published 7 years ago, it is still relevant to we who own older vehicles. Fantastic step by step troubleshooting. Thanks for taking the time to educate us!
Man, I'm amazed at how great your videos are... It's truly refreshing to have someone thorough and patient presenting concise, detailed content. Super pro, I wish every vid on TH-cam was this good!
WHATS WITH ALL THE TATS......YOU A PRISONER...IS THAT IT....WE ARE YOUR REHAB....IS THAT IT......YUR DOIN THIS CAUSE YOU HAVE TO.....YOU DONT CARE NOTHING FOR US........WE ARE JUST YOUR WAY OUT SO YOU CAN COMMIT MORE CRIMES.......
@wayne You could be kind to people instead of spreading negative comments to somebody who is helping people out. Try it, positive thoughts will come back to you as well.
I watched part 1 and 2. Just by showing the pin locations saved me a headache and time staring at wiring diagrams. Very clear and accurate. Thank you, Sir!
Excellent job! I don't think I have ever seen something so well explained. You should be teaching every day. I've got a 07 classic 6k miles drls not working, for long. Thank you, Sir.
You were absolutely spot on with this DRL video. I followed it and found the problem to be a failed diode module just like in the video. Love your detailed process and explanation - you're one of the best! Thanks so much you saved me a bunch of time and money.
I’ve been driving my 1999 van with my driving day head lights for night use for a while. I spent time and money replacing parts including the cruise control switch which solved the issue for a little while but lost my high and low beams again and now my day driving lights went out. Thanks to your video I checked fuse 4 and 15, I pulled out fuse 15 with the van running and put the same old fuse back in and now I got my daytime running lights now I think I’ll just r&r the fuse with a new one. I also unplugged the diode and plugged it back to see what my head lights would do. Thank you for a great video.
Wow !!! This is the most logical trouble shooting ever. The camera work was also fantastic. This is one of those rare videos that are amazing and worth watching .
Thank you Robinson Auto. I was having daytime running lights issues and my son and I watched your video and then started working on our vehicle. We followed your troubleshooting procedure to the tee and long behold the problem was the diode/daytime running lights control module. I know for sure we would have been throwing parts at it until it either fixed it or had to take it to a mechanic. Thanks a million or hundreds of dollars $$$ !!!
Just knowing where the components are is a huge help. Knowing where connections are and how they work. Now I know where and how to tackle the job. Many thanks for keeping it simple. Glad I subscribed.
Thank-you for posting this terrific diagnosis and repair. You said "let's not throw parts at it" meaning that you could have just bought every part in the circuit and after replacing them all, it probably would be fixed... at great expense to the owner and no understanding of the system by you. I worked in the trade for 50+ years and always took the same stance - 'diagnose first/replace parts last'. I could have never worked at a dealership where they just tossed parts at a job until it was repaired. Your logic made me smile all through the video - both of them - and I truly appreciate your candidness and cool tone of voice in explaining this problem. I too, had the same problem with the same results on my wife's 2000 Astrovan when the DDLs failed to work properly. I knew it was the diode, but I wasn't sure which one it was after my diagnosis. Thanks for pointing it out to me. The underdash of that p/u looks remarkably like the one under her van. My next problem is the ABS system shuts off and fires the BRAKE and ABS light when it does so. I've followed the schematic and it leads me to K5 cross member ground screw (which doesn't exist on her van) as a possible intermittent ground problem. That makes sense as the ABS tends to go OFF (by lighting UP, that is) mostly when she hits a bump or rut in the road. And no: I've checked the wheel bearings and tone wheels, pickups, etc to find no problems there. The signal circuits all Ohm-out within range of each other - as I have no real specs there. I just wish I knew what the engineers thought was the K5 ground screw on an Astrovan? What do you think?
It's still haunted - the ABS circuit anyway. It seems to stay working and not turning the ABS and BRAKE light all winter long when we need it badly, but come summer and clean roads, it will turn itself off all the time. I'm still going to go after a defective ground somewhere - I just can't decide if there is supposed to be a full time ground or it's controlled by the ABS system or not. Circuit schematics all seem to be for other vehicles - other than an '00 Astro with 2WD, that is.
robinsonsauto I'm recovering from knee replacement and won't be up to speed for a bit yet. Then I'll get into it deeper. I'm sure it's just an intermittent flakey ground, but I haven't found it yet. Funny that it seems to work well all winter long, and when the roads are clear, it will cut out. How does it know? I dunnow. I wonder if just tapping into all the grounds and establishing a "helper ground circuit" would be a good idea. That wouldn't actually be my typical diagnose and then repair policy, but if I can just improve the condition.............hmmmmmm.
Thank you so much. I'm an idiot when it comes to electricity, but you are the first to speak my language and now, since I have a 99 suburban, I'm going to make it a point to learn all I can about this crazy electrical system. I've had some very curious electric issues (dim lights, cruise control shutting off on the highway, and serious low-voltage issues the alternator hadn't seemed able to catch up with), but this little fix has cured it all...weird I know). I even got my 13 year old son to do the work for me, since I don't know if I'd be able to get back up after wedging myself in there. Thanks again, and I'm going to watch your other videos, too.
your welcome, thats awesome im glad i could help out and make memories at the same time, im sure your little man feels proud, shake his hand for me great job bud!
Thanks for sharing. Just got a 97 Tahoe and the drl worked when I went to look at the truck. Got it home and they weren't working. Been up all night messing with it for inspection tomorrow. Diode it was. Took the one out of my 99 Suburban and viola. Much appreciated.
This is absolutely the best video on this.. almost every step I was wonderin when you were gonna show a detail.. and you did, bc it’s a fact that details matter with electrical.. all the newer cars (this one included; roughly late 90s up) there is soo much that matters especially since a lot of its computer controlled.. and it is true that generally they read around 10.55v or so as a new diode etc.. when it’s running at say 14.4v you’d have roughly 12.5v so they don’t run at full brightness all the time..
As a retired electronics technician and life long shade tree mechanic (auto, motorcycles, small engines), I was curious how you would explain your troubleshooting steps so that a layman could understand them. I had this same issue in my '96 Chevy Suburban, but had already repaired mine. Anyway, serious kudos to you. This is the first one of your videos that I've had a chance to watch. I was impressed. You did a fantastic job of explaining the troubleshooting steps from the easy to the more complex. Using the actual wiring diagrams and tracing connections that way was also a very helpful thing to fully instruct lay people on the proper methods of troubleshooting circuitry such as this. One thing you may want to mention, though, is that power should be turned off (no voltage applied to test circuit) during any continuity checks while using your actual meter to perform those tests. However, most folks following your video who have a DVM would probably already know not to check resistance (ohms/continuity) with power applied. So, in closing... definitely a 5-Star vid, man! You did a great job of it. I'll be watching more and also subscribing to your channel.
V.T. Eric Layton thank you for the positive feedback it's greatly appreciated!! It's always good to here that the extra effort is recognize so thanks again! Look forward to seeing you around 👍🍻
My low beams are currently non-functioning when the light switch is turned to on. My DRL have not worked for years. Would my low beams become functional again if I replace the diode? Or is this a switch on the stalk?
Awesome video. I'm troubleshooting no lights working at all (high, regular and drl) on a 99 suburban and your explanations with the schematic superimposed on the video as you are testing is the best thing I've seen online for this. MANY thanks!!!
Very nice work Will! Your troubleshooting skills are unsurpassed. One thing you could do different is where you checked for continuity of the wire at the diode connector to the relay socket. You could place a jumper on the diode connector and then use your test light at the relay pin. Diodes usually measure about 0.7V when forward biased, however, the higher current ones usually run about a volt across them. From your wiring diagram, you have two of them in series. The two volt drop is correct.
What a very High quality video in information, clarity and production!! Top notch, Very Nice job Chris! And not to mention it shortened my misery by not having to lay on my back to long and figure out where these components are LOL.
I don't even own a GM but found these 2 videos very interesting. Great job explaining things, doing a thorough diagnosis, and showing the troubleshooting. Sounds like that Yukon (?) is in some serious need of a U-joint...maybe more.
I agree with everyone else that you are an awesome mechanic! I'm not much of a mechanic, but I've been working on my personal vehicles for a long time. One question I have is, what year is this SUV? I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500, and it looks nothing like what you're working on. I don't see the diode, and my fuse and relay boxes look nothing like yours. I'm not saying this grip, I'm pretty much a dummy, and if it doesn't look like what you're working on, I'm lost (LOL!) Thank you so much for doing this! You worked very hard making this video! You are indeed a great teacher! I'll figure it out eventually! Thanks again!
Man that's really brilliant electric diagnostic video ....please keep it up we need that ...the step by steps processes just amazing and easy to understand ....thanks Robinson for you time
GREAT DIAGNOSTIC PROCESS! I’m having all kinds of problems with the DRL system in my 99 Buick Century (The amber parking lights that are alway on and the turn signal that’s tied into each) and this has given me a few ideas to recheck some things.
This was a great learning video. I appreciate the information, but I've been hunting for the yellow power out wire from the diode. Now, I finally know where to look.
Very Nice, My parking brake cable broke so the parking brake pedal was always down and realized why my daytime lights never came on again. If I have not watched this video I would have gone insane. thanks!
Hey..... you just saved me lot's of money!!!!!!! You so far are the best on information to fixing these types of trucks... thank you....thank you keep up the good work
Excellent job on this video automotive electrical is a big headache for most but they way you wee as lied through your video was extremely clear and helpful.
Excellent. Mine is a 2002 GMC Safari - bad wiring found behind left-front running light. Blew 2 x 20 Amp fuses - one for the instrument panel and rear lights. The other for the turn signal. Problem, no running lights - sourced to Diode. Your video helped make the fix that much clearer. Thanks!
nice video man, i really get alot from your videos, more then other channels where they just undo parts and say they figured it out and here's how to replace hte part. i think alot of us want to see more of how troubleshoot. so thanks again for taking us through the process. your an easy guy to follow and understand. cheers.
Thank you for the compliment, when making these videos i try to explain things in a way that make sense to me if i where in need of help without complicating it to much, I agree with what your saying... me just changing a part wouldn't do much good, Use this case as an example, i may have another GM come in With inoperative DRL system and find it to be the break switch or a bad ground. Troubleshooting is key thanks again
Awesome electrical series! Can't wait for the drive train video(s)! It took me the longest time to learn about the emergency brake nullification of the DRL's, but there it is...!
You know man I've looked at hundreds of videos and yours was so good give me a better understanding of everything I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla I know that two relays are bad the main headlight relay in the DRL headlight relay my daytime running lights work and I have voltage all the way through to the DRL relay but when I turn on my headlights they don't come on. So i know that since the headlight relay goes to the dimmer relay and then a dimmer goes to the DRL relay. But daytime running lights work during the day as soon as the sensor as sensitive as it is now detects any amount of Darkness it cuts the daytime running lights off which it does it supposed to right. but also at night after the timer goes off for the daytime running light sensor whatever detects no light all of my lights Flash except for my headlights. Which is my regular lights that turn on running lights. the problem is is that the headlights don't work the bulbs are good the relays need to be replaced I know but even putting in jumped relays by putting a wire between the magnet and the plate I know that it was working but now I have going back to the engine compartment the wiring to the internal under the dash that the possibility is the diode or something else so far I have failed to locate the diode as of yet but I have no clue of why this would fail even though my radio runs all the fuses of our working and the accessories are working can you please help me. just so you know I have talked to several mechanics and everybody told me it was a short ground this is not the problem and I know it is not the problem because I checked all the way around with the multimeter and pulled the fuses and pulled the 40 amp main fuse and everything and the relays I know are bad but everyone says this is not a common problem for this car also around here in Texas people want to charge me between 1 and $200 per hour just to diagnose the electrical problem and I'm not trying to pay that I usually work on cars myself and I can replace Parts no problem but it is not working for me..
Yeah man after another look at the diagram you are correct. Without the diode pack the lights would burn at full brightness. This also explains why the pack is so beefy (has to handle lots of current draw from the lights). I also agree that if you have diagrams and can trace out the wiring you should attempt to troubleshoot without removing items, since if there is a poor connection you are libel to disturb and loose the problem only to have it possibly return later. Aces man!
I agree. Usually diodes are there to prevent retrograde current flow, sometimes to protect motors or retrograde flow in the case of a variable ground downstream. I'm not seeing that in the schematic, but we may not have enough info. Big heat sinks seem like a waste of energy these days -- I get a feeling they will be relics of the past when engineers rethink design strategies. That's a nice demo, as always, Will.
I was laughing at 4:35 apparently thats used in more trades then I thought. Great video, all your videos are very informative and I enjoy watching them, I dont even have this problem and I watched both videos.
Thank you for your help, I don't know much about cars. You gave me a starting point of where to look because my running lights aren't working, thank you very much for your help.
Really enjoy the video. In changing my day time running lights in my SRX 2012 the car when into a coma. Didn't wanted to start. I wonder if this troubleshooting running light video would have help me in pinpoint the problem. Good stuff man!
Excellent video man. I have a question I have a 96 Silverado.. I have no headlights at all. Tails, parking lights work just no headlights. Bulbs are good. Would a bad diode cause this not to have headlights at all? Thanks man!
Thanks for sharing; very much appreciate the detailed but simple presentation for those of us folks that have the skill and the tools but are short on time for research!!
Nice presentation. Some yards won't let power packs in their Yard. Would it be possible that it has a capacitor also onboard with a diode That would explain the drop on voltage
Nice video, easy to understand. If you covered it, I missed it: I have replaced both DRL bulb receptacles and still have only one that works. Any ideas for that?
That's a great video, thank you so much, been working and looking for days trying to figure out why my lights was not working. I know where to look now.
Your the man with the electrical stuff. Do you think this could possibly be the issue with my 04 5.3 Chevy tahoe? My DRLs wont turn on at all. I already put new fuses and bulbs
yea i agree with that, that's what i was assuming as well, Its hard to notice a deferance on the vehicle because the lenses are hazed as you can see @ 12:55 when i go from DRL to low beam Switched, However on the bench you do notice its slightly dimmer. Just seems like wasted energy for that slight of a deference. maybe it helps with the life of the bulb as well. That would justify You have a good point i should of performed that test as well... Thank you for the feed back
I agree as well, As for the testing that's why i tried to disturb as little as possible. like you mentioned if it was a bad connection, and i disturbed the connection the condition may go away for a short time only to return down the road. very good point. Its happened to me more than once lol
Thats a good guess, just uploaded a new follow up video, they do have issues like you mentioned however in this case it was a bad U-joint... sorry the good news is this truck has a band going bad its a 4L60E, he uses this truck daily so We picked up a used transmission that i will be refreshing along with removal and replacement. so look forward to this rebuild/refresh video series coming up shortly. thank you
very good video going to try it tomorrow on my 99 chevy my headlights don't come on either will that be do to the relay going bad I do have the green light that comes on no daytime lights either
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE MY VAN DODGE CARAVAN HAS THE SAME PROBLEM BUT I SEE THAT YOU ARE AN EXPERT ! HAT OFF TO YOU . I AM NOT GOING TO DEAL WITH IT I'LL LEAVE IT TO THE EXPERTS.
This séries is fantastic, you are the best, my 2001 Infiniti qx4 manufactured in 2000 low beams both left and right go off after 15-20 seconds, what could that be? I can't find the dry, says it should be near battery but not there, help
Thanks so much!!! My 96 sierra's DRLs dont work but the green indicator light still was on. I hit a big pothole and the green light went out. Did it maybe come unplugged or something?
Very informative video. I greatly appreciate what you are doing. I have a 4.3 vortex engine that cranks but won't start. I think you have found the problem for me. Thank You
very good video! im trying to troubleshoot '96 Jimmy headlights not working, but DRLs do. looked at fuses and some relays, not sure what relay is for headlights.
Very through in your trouble-shooting. Wonder why the diode is there in the first place? And what a mammoth pack it is too-Large heatsink and cooling fins. Most silicon diodes drop ~ 0.7 VDC when forward biased. I think your diagram showed several in series. 3 would have dropped ~2.1 volts.
Yea i tend to go to deep at times lol Im not 100% sure why GM goes about doing allot of things the way they do to be honest, I would like to dissect the old one couldn't dig up any info on it, however i believe your correct, thanks for the feedback
I have a question hopefully you can shed some light on it for me. While I'm driving at night I'll hear a click and look at my dash and the DRL indicator is lit up and when that happens my high beams don't work. Where should I start to diagnose this problem? I pulled the diode light some people said and the light still comes on on the dash but then the headlights turn off altogether because the DRL diode is no longer attached...SMH
This is an awesome video very informative and very thorough. I have an issue actually probably at my headlamp control switch interior light dimmer switch. THE daytime running lights work fine but when I turn the headlights on (which is the 12 o'clock position on the dimmer switch in the cab) the running lights go out. But the headlights do not come on although the drl light goes out on my dash. Also if I click the stalk on my hazard/turn signal switch I see the bright lights come on BRIGHTS do work but the regular headlights don't.. Or at least it seems so are daytime running lights and low beam headlights the same thing ...ANY suggestions?
I find that my 98 gmc trucks daytime running lamps are dimmer then my low beams. which would explain the voltage difference. which kind of makes sense if it's to make the lights last longer. sounds like your yukon needs u joint or something in the transfer case if It's a 4x4 or something in the differential
The diode is there to make a voltagedrop in the circuit to dim the lights during DRL. Diodepack could also have been tested by jumping the diodeconnector in the car. This way the integrity of the wiring would have been checked also. As always there are many roads to victory. :)
Although this was published 7 years ago, it is still relevant to we who own older vehicles. Fantastic step by step troubleshooting. Thanks for taking the time to educate us!
Man, I'm amazed at how great your videos are... It's truly refreshing to have someone thorough and patient presenting concise, detailed content. Super pro, I wish every vid on TH-cam was this good!
superturboawesome1 thank you for the compliment, im a little late on the reply lol just wanted to thank you anyhow means a lot
WHATS WITH ALL THE TATS......YOU A PRISONER...IS THAT IT....WE ARE YOUR REHAB....IS THAT IT......YUR DOIN THIS CAUSE YOU HAVE TO.....YOU DONT CARE NOTHING FOR US........WE ARE JUST YOUR WAY OUT SO YOU CAN COMMIT MORE CRIMES.......
yes ..he's a pro👍🏻👍🏻
@wayne You could be kind to people instead of spreading negative comments to somebody who is helping people out. Try it, positive thoughts will come back to you as well.
I watched part 1 and 2. Just by showing the pin locations saved me a headache and time staring at wiring diagrams. Very clear and accurate. Thank you, Sir!
Your welcome! I’m glad to see that this video is still helping people!
This is what makes a real technician.. anyone can just change parts. Good video!!
Excellent job! I don't think I have ever seen something so well explained. You should be teaching every day. I've got a 07 classic 6k miles drls not working, for long. Thank you, Sir.
Hands down BEST VIDEOS if your having any trouble with you Chevy/GMC headlights... thanks man
Thank you for this feedback! It’s appreciated
You were absolutely spot on with this DRL video. I followed it and found the problem to be a failed diode module just like in the video. Love your detailed process and explanation - you're one of the best! Thanks so much you saved me a bunch of time and money.
Nice to see such a thorough and methodical approach to troubleshooting. If only every mechanic was as knowledgeable and paid such attention to detail.
I’ve been driving my 1999 van with my driving day head lights for night use for a while. I spent time and money replacing parts including the cruise control switch which solved the issue for a little while but lost my high and low beams again and now my day driving lights went out. Thanks to your video I checked fuse 4 and 15, I pulled out fuse 15 with the van running and put the same old fuse back in and now I got my daytime running lights now I think I’ll just r&r the fuse with a new one. I also unplugged the diode and plugged it back to see what my head lights would do. Thank you for a great video.
Wow !!! This is the most logical trouble shooting ever. The camera work was also fantastic. This is one of those rare videos that are amazing and worth watching .
I'm a female trying to understand the wiring confusing yet you explain in depth and it's very helpful thanks for the ability to replay
Thank you Robinson Auto. I was having daytime running lights issues and my son and I watched your video and then started working on our vehicle. We followed your troubleshooting procedure to the tee and long behold the problem was the diode/daytime running lights control module. I know for sure we would have been throwing parts at it until it either fixed it or had to take it to a mechanic. Thanks a million or hundreds of dollars $$$ !!!
Just knowing where the components are is a huge help. Knowing where connections are and how they work. Now I know where and how to tackle the job. Many thanks for keeping it simple. Glad I subscribed.
Thank you for the feedback and supporting my Chanel!! Greatly appreciated
This is one of the best most informative videos i have watched , he has a very good understanding of electrical systems .
Thank-you for posting this terrific diagnosis and repair. You said "let's not throw parts at it" meaning that you could have just bought every part in the circuit and after replacing them all, it probably would be fixed... at great expense to the owner and no understanding of the system by you.
I worked in the trade for 50+ years and always took the same stance - 'diagnose first/replace parts last'. I could have never worked at a dealership where they just tossed parts at a job until it was repaired.
Your logic made me smile all through the video - both of them - and I truly appreciate your candidness and cool tone of voice in explaining this problem. I too, had the same problem with the same results on my wife's 2000 Astrovan when the DDLs failed to work properly.
I knew it was the diode, but I wasn't sure which one it was after my diagnosis. Thanks for pointing it out to me. The underdash of that p/u looks remarkably like the one under her van.
My next problem is the ABS system shuts off and fires the BRAKE and ABS light when it does so.
I've followed the schematic and it leads me to K5 cross member ground screw (which doesn't exist on her van) as a possible intermittent ground problem.
That makes sense as the ABS tends to go OFF (by lighting UP, that is) mostly when she hits a bump or rut in the road. And no: I've checked the wheel bearings and tone wheels, pickups, etc to find no problems there.
The signal circuits all Ohm-out within range of each other - as I have no real specs there. I just wish I knew what the engineers thought was the K5 ground screw on an Astrovan?
What do you think?
Joe Vreeland thank you for the compliments!!! Man I appreciate it. Any luck with the ABS issue?
It's still haunted - the ABS circuit anyway. It seems to stay working and not turning the ABS and BRAKE light all winter long when we need it badly, but come summer and clean roads, it will turn itself off all the time.
I'm still going to go after a defective ground somewhere - I just can't decide if there is supposed to be a full time ground or it's controlled by the ABS system or not.
Circuit schematics all seem to be for other vehicles - other than an '00 Astro with 2WD, that is.
robinsonsauto I'm recovering from knee replacement and won't be up to speed for a bit yet. Then I'll get into it deeper. I'm sure it's just an intermittent flakey ground, but I haven't found it yet. Funny that it seems to work well all winter long, and when the roads are clear, it will cut out. How does it know? I dunnow.
I wonder if just tapping into all the grounds and establishing a "helper ground circuit" would be a good idea. That wouldn't actually be my typical diagnose and then repair policy, but if I can just improve the condition.............hmmmmmm.
Thank you so much. I'm an idiot when it comes to electricity, but you are the first to speak my language and now, since I have a 99 suburban, I'm going to make it a point to learn all I can about this crazy electrical system. I've had some very curious electric issues (dim lights, cruise control shutting off on the highway, and serious low-voltage issues the alternator hadn't seemed able to catch up with), but this little fix has cured it all...weird I know). I even got my 13 year old son to do the work for me, since I don't know if I'd be able to get back up after wedging myself in there. Thanks again, and I'm going to watch your other videos, too.
your welcome, thats awesome im glad i could help out and make memories at the same time, im sure your little man feels proud, shake his hand for me great job bud!
WendelltheSongwriter
Thanks for sharing. Just got a 97 Tahoe and the drl worked when I went to look at the truck. Got it home and they weren't working. Been up all night messing with it for inspection tomorrow. Diode it was. Took the one out of my 99 Suburban and viola. Much appreciated.
Having taught high school auto shop, this is a great learning video.
This is absolutely the best video on this.. almost every step I was wonderin when you were gonna show a detail.. and you did, bc it’s a fact that details matter with electrical.. all the newer cars (this one included; roughly late 90s up) there is soo much that matters especially since a lot of its computer controlled.. and it is true that generally they read around 10.55v or so as a new diode etc.. when it’s running at say 14.4v you’d have roughly 12.5v so they don’t run at full brightness all the time..
Details do matter, especially when dealing with electrical systems in cars. It's like solving a puzzle!
As a retired electronics technician and life long shade tree mechanic (auto, motorcycles, small engines), I was curious how you would explain your troubleshooting steps so that a layman could understand them. I had this same issue in my '96 Chevy Suburban, but had already repaired mine. Anyway, serious kudos to you. This is the first one of your videos that I've had a chance to watch. I was impressed. You did a fantastic job of explaining the troubleshooting steps from the easy to the more complex. Using the actual wiring diagrams and tracing connections that way was also a very helpful thing to fully instruct lay people on the proper methods of troubleshooting circuitry such as this.
One thing you may want to mention, though, is that power should be turned off (no voltage applied to test circuit) during any continuity checks while using your actual meter to perform those tests. However, most folks following your video who have a DVM would probably already know not to check resistance (ohms/continuity) with power applied.
So, in closing... definitely a 5-Star vid, man! You did a great job of it. I'll be watching more and also subscribing to your channel.
V.T. Eric Layton thank you for the positive feedback it's greatly appreciated!! It's always good to here that the extra effort is recognize so thanks again! Look forward to seeing you around 👍🍻
My low beams are currently non-functioning when the light switch is turned to on. My DRL have not worked for years. Would my low beams become functional again if I replace the diode? Or is this a switch on the stalk?
Watching and listening to a Great Teacher, I'm a new fan.
Awesome video. I'm troubleshooting no lights working at all (high, regular and drl) on a 99 suburban and your explanations with the schematic superimposed on the video as you are testing is the best thing I've seen online for this. MANY thanks!!!
Very nice work Will! Your troubleshooting skills are unsurpassed. One thing you could do different is where you checked for continuity of the wire at the diode connector to the relay socket. You could place a jumper on the diode connector and then use your test light at the relay pin. Diodes usually measure about 0.7V when forward biased, however, the higher current ones usually run about a volt across them. From your wiring diagram, you have two of them in series. The two volt drop is correct.
What a very High quality video in information, clarity and production!! Top notch, Very Nice job Chris! And not to mention it shortened my misery by not having to lay on my back to long and figure out where these components are LOL.
Best diagnostic video I've ever seen on this medium. Subscribed .
I don't even own a GM but found these 2 videos very interesting. Great job explaining things, doing a thorough diagnosis, and showing the troubleshooting. Sounds like that Yukon (?) is in some serious need of a U-joint...maybe more.
I agree with everyone else that you are an awesome mechanic! I'm not much of a mechanic, but I've been working on my personal vehicles for a long time.
One question I have is, what year is this SUV? I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500, and it looks nothing like what you're working on. I don't see the diode, and my fuse and relay boxes look nothing like yours. I'm not saying this grip, I'm pretty much a dummy, and if it doesn't look like what you're working on, I'm lost (LOL!)
Thank you so much for doing this! You worked very hard making this video! You are indeed a great teacher! I'll figure it out eventually! Thanks again!
Man that's really brilliant electric diagnostic video ....please keep it up we need that ...the step by steps processes just amazing and easy to understand ....thanks Robinson for you time
GREAT DIAGNOSTIC PROCESS! I’m having all kinds of problems with the DRL system in my 99 Buick Century (The amber parking lights that are alway on and the turn signal that’s tied into each) and this has given me a few ideas to recheck some things.
This was a great learning video. I appreciate the information, but I've been hunting for the yellow power out wire from the diode. Now, I finally know where to look.
Very Nice, My parking brake cable broke so the parking brake pedal was always down and realized why my daytime lights never came on again. If I have not watched this video I would have gone insane. thanks!
Hey..... you just saved me lot's of money!!!!!!! You so far are the best on information to fixing these types of trucks... thank you....thank you keep up the good work
Thanks again. You saved me 2 hours of chasing wires down...
Thank you for the compliment, will do my best to keep them coming. your welcome
Can the diode affect ONLY the driver side tail light? (Daytime running tail light)
Excellent job on this video automotive electrical is a big headache for most but they way you wee as lied through your video was extremely clear and helpful.
Really enjoyed your video. You're a natural teacher. Appreciate the work you put into the DRL repair.
You sir are good at what you do. Explaining it so I can understand is no small feat. Awesome stuff
Your bench testing totally completes all your videos !
thats what makes you Unique and different from the rest of guys out there.
Gracias!
Excellent. Mine is a 2002 GMC Safari - bad wiring found behind left-front running light. Blew 2 x 20 Amp fuses - one for the instrument panel and rear lights. The other for the turn signal. Problem, no running lights - sourced to Diode.
Your video helped make the fix that much clearer. Thanks!
Nice job!! glad you found it helpful
nice video man, i really get alot from your videos, more then other channels where they just undo parts and say they figured it out and here's how to replace hte part. i think alot of us want to see more of how troubleshoot. so thanks again for taking us through the process. your an easy guy to follow and understand. cheers.
Thank you for the compliment, when making these videos i try to explain things in a way that make sense to me if i where in need of help without complicating it to much, I agree with what your saying... me just changing a part wouldn't do much good, Use this case as an example, i may have another GM come in With inoperative DRL system and find it to be the break switch or a bad ground. Troubleshooting is key
thanks again
Awesome electrical series! Can't wait for the drive train video(s)! It took me the longest time to learn about the emergency brake nullification of the DRL's, but there it is...!
had the same problem but in reverse. the drl would not shut off. this video helped me locate the module to find if it was stuck closed.
Sweet. Well done, clear, concise and well presented - no jiggling camera to boot. thanks for taking the time to make this video available.
You welcome, thank you for the compliments
You know man I've looked at hundreds of videos and yours was so good give me a better understanding of everything I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla I know that two relays are bad the main headlight relay in the DRL headlight relay my daytime running lights work and I have voltage all the way through to the DRL relay but when I turn on my headlights they don't come on. So i know that since the headlight relay goes to the dimmer relay and then a dimmer goes to the DRL relay. But daytime running lights work during the day as soon as the sensor as sensitive as it is now detects any amount of Darkness it cuts the daytime running lights off which it does it supposed to right. but also at night after the timer goes off for the daytime running light sensor whatever detects no light all of my lights Flash except for my headlights. Which is my regular lights that turn on running lights. the problem is is that the headlights don't work the bulbs are good the relays need to be replaced I know but even putting in jumped relays by putting a wire between the magnet and the plate I know that it was working but now I have going back to the engine compartment the wiring to the internal under the dash that the possibility is the diode or something else so far I have failed to locate the diode as of yet but I have no clue of why this would fail even though my radio runs all the fuses of our working and the accessories are working can you please help me. just so you know I have talked to several mechanics and everybody told me it was a short ground this is not the problem and I know it is not the problem because I checked all the way around with the multimeter and pulled the fuses and pulled the 40 amp main fuse and everything and the relays I know are bad but everyone says this is not a common problem for this car also around here in Texas people want to charge me between 1 and $200 per hour just to diagnose the electrical problem and I'm not trying to pay that I usually work on cars myself and I can replace Parts no problem but it is not working for me..
Yeah man after another look at the diagram you are correct. Without the diode pack the lights would burn at full brightness. This also explains why the pack is so beefy (has to handle lots of current draw from the lights). I also agree that if you have diagrams and can trace out the wiring you should attempt to troubleshoot without removing items, since if there is a poor connection you are libel to disturb and loose the problem only to have it possibly return later. Aces man!
All-Star!
Thanks for going further and working thru the Ebrake switch signal!
I agree. Usually diodes are there to prevent retrograde current flow, sometimes to protect motors or retrograde flow in the case of a variable ground downstream. I'm not seeing that in the schematic, but we may not have enough info. Big heat sinks seem like a waste of energy these days -- I get a feeling they will be relics of the past when engineers rethink design strategies.
That's a nice demo, as always, Will.
I was laughing at 4:35 apparently thats used in more trades then I thought.
Great video, all your videos are very informative and I enjoy watching them, I dont even have this problem and I watched both videos.
Thank you for your help, I don't know much about cars. You gave me a starting point of where to look because my running lights aren't working, thank you very much for your help.
Really enjoy the video. In changing my day time running lights in my SRX 2012 the car when into a coma. Didn't wanted to start. I wonder if this troubleshooting running light video would have help me in pinpoint the problem. Good stuff man!
Great video any ideas on how to shut off DRL they stay on after shutting truck off,,even after disconnecting headlights switch
Found this two part video to be very helpful in troubleshooting the DRL problem on my 1999 GMC K1500 Suburban.
Great video, you helped me find the NFG diode issue on my truck! Thanks, Michael
Videos got some daytime running light problems going to check it out now thank you for the video very good job explaining
Thanks to your video I have DRL on my new 99 tahoe.
You my friend are very thorough at explaining everything you are doing and why. VERY EXCELLENT VIDEO! Subscribed!!
Thank you---This video was super. No questions left, very through.
Seen part 1 and 2. Great troubleshooting! Great video, I will start troubleshooting and get my problem fixed.
Excellent video. Great troubleshooting skills and techniques. This is hugely as I’m working to tackle a DRL issue.
Thank you! I hope this helps track down your concern
Thank you for the feed back, and thanks for the compliment
Thanks for the tips and pointers. I think you just helped me fix my bus.
Glad to help
Excellent video man. I have a question I have a 96 Silverado.. I have no headlights at all. Tails, parking lights work just no headlights. Bulbs are good. Would a bad diode cause this not to have headlights at all? Thanks man!
Very informative it has given me a place to look, my daylights are blinking off and on. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for sharing; very much appreciate the detailed but simple presentation for those of us folks that have the skill and the tools but are short on time for research!!
Nice presentation. Some yards won't let power packs in their Yard.
Would it be possible that it has a capacitor also onboard with a diode
That would explain the drop on voltage
Very good video!! Now to tackle this for my 97 silverado! Pretty sure it's the relay as the courtesy lights will come on while driving and parked.
Nice video, easy to understand. If you covered it, I missed it: I have replaced both DRL bulb receptacles and still have only one that works. Any ideas for that?
That's a great video, thank you so much, been working and looking for days trying to figure out why my lights was not working. I know where to look now.
Your the man with the electrical stuff. Do you think this could possibly be the issue with my 04 5.3 Chevy tahoe? My DRLs wont turn on at all. I already put new fuses and bulbs
yea i agree with that, that's what i was assuming as well, Its hard to notice a deferance on the vehicle because the lenses are hazed as you can see @ 12:55 when i go from DRL to low beam Switched, However on the bench you do notice its slightly dimmer. Just seems like wasted energy for that slight of a deference. maybe it helps with the life of the bulb as well. That would justify
You have a good point i should of performed that test as well... Thank you for the feed back
I agree as well, As for the testing that's why i tried to disturb as little as possible. like you mentioned if it was a bad connection, and i disturbed the connection the condition may go away for a short time only to return down the road. very good point. Its happened to me more than once lol
AWESOME VIDEO I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY TAHOE Do you have any videos on the same year with the dome light not working ?
Thats a good guess, just uploaded a new follow up video, they do have issues like you mentioned however in this case it was a bad U-joint... sorry
the good news is this truck has a band going bad its a 4L60E, he uses this truck daily so We picked up a used transmission that i will be refreshing along with removal and replacement. so look forward to this rebuild/refresh video series coming up shortly.
thank you
very good video going to try it tomorrow on my 99 chevy my headlights don't come on either will that be do to the relay going bad I do have the green light that comes on no daytime lights either
THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE MY VAN DODGE CARAVAN HAS THE SAME PROBLEM BUT I SEE THAT YOU ARE AN EXPERT ! HAT OFF TO YOU . I AM NOT GOING TO DEAL WITH IT I'LL LEAVE IT TO THE EXPERTS.
This séries is fantastic, you are the best, my 2001 Infiniti qx4 manufactured in 2000 low beams both left and right go off after 15-20 seconds, what could that be? I can't find the dry, says it should be near battery but not there, help
Great video with clear explanation of the electrical troubleshooting, thanks for taking the time to explain.
Fantastic! Now all I have to do is find where my diode is on my 2006 ! Excellent job! Same issue.
Thanks so much!!! My 96 sierra's DRLs dont work but the green indicator light still was on. I hit a big pothole and the green light went out. Did it maybe come unplugged or something?
Very informative video. I greatly appreciate what you are doing. I have a 4.3 vortex engine that cranks but won't start. I think you have found the problem for me. Thank You
this video will help a lot of DIYers, thank you very much, very informative...
This video made me so smart that I am going to open my own repair garage. ; )
Thanks for the great vid. Subbed and thumbs up.
Awesome do I get some kind commission hahah just playing, I'm glad you find it useful, thank you for the sub and like it's appreciated
robinsonsauto hi
robinsonsauto inter lites won't shut off on 2003 chevv
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Tania Ponce hello
u joint
I am glad I came across your videos. I have two gmt400s
very good video! im trying to troubleshoot '96 Jimmy headlights not working, but DRLs do. looked at fuses and some relays, not sure what relay is for headlights.
Do you know what this part is called or what the part number is?
Great videos. Thanks for the help. I have an 05 Suburban and an 07 Silverado both with DRL problems. I think you found my problem.
Thank you for this I think I I am having this problem with my 97. Day time running lights work but when you turn on the switch I have no lights.
Very through in your trouble-shooting. Wonder why the diode is there in the first place? And what a mammoth pack it is too-Large heatsink and cooling fins. Most silicon diodes drop ~ 0.7 VDC when forward biased. I think your diagram showed several in series. 3 would have dropped ~2.1 volts.
Thank you so much for this video. Now I can get this thing fixed.
Yea i tend to go to deep at times lol Im not 100% sure why GM goes about doing allot of things the way they do to be honest, I would like to dissect the old one couldn't dig up any info on it, however i believe your correct, thanks for the feedback
I have a question hopefully you can shed some light on it for me. While I'm driving at night I'll hear a click and look at my dash and the DRL indicator is lit up and when that happens my high beams don't work. Where should I start to diagnose this problem? I pulled the diode light some people said and the light still comes on on the dash but then the headlights turn off altogether because the DRL diode is no longer attached...SMH
This is an awesome video very informative and very thorough. I have an issue actually probably at my headlamp control switch interior light dimmer switch. THE daytime running lights work fine but when I turn the headlights on (which is the 12 o'clock position on the dimmer switch in the cab) the running lights go out. But the headlights do not come on although the drl light goes out on my dash. Also if I click the stalk on my hazard/turn signal switch I see the bright lights come on BRIGHTS do work but the regular headlights don't.. Or at least it seems so are daytime running lights and low beam headlights the same thing ...ANY suggestions?
Outstanding instructions. Very detailed and professional. Thanks for sharing
I find that my 98 gmc trucks daytime running lamps are dimmer then my low beams. which would explain the voltage difference. which kind of makes sense if it's to make the lights last longer. sounds like your yukon needs u joint or something in the transfer case if It's a 4x4 or something in the differential
Would this also explain why I don’t have automatic headlights on my ‘06 escape????
I need you to test my Pontiac Montana van it’s doing wired electrical things at night ,but run good in daylight hours
Well done !! I guess your doing some u-joints next. Look forward to the next vid.
The diode is there to make a voltagedrop in the circuit to dim the lights during DRL. Diodepack could also have been tested by jumping the diodeconnector in the car. This way the integrity of the wiring would have been checked also. As always there are many roads to victory. :)
I'm a technician from Chevrolet good job but? Remove your ring when you work it will melt it if you touch positive cable in you finger
been there done that.