Mine is very similar but I used threaded black iron pipe with a Tee piece for the junction. The final piece also has a threaded end onto which is screwed a stainless steel pipe cap - which has been drilled x 5 holes to blow the air. The iron pipe protrudes just through the base of a firepot (large hole drilled in the base to suit). The pipe cap prevents the pipe falling back through the hole. It also means that the holes in the cap are an inch or so above the base of the firepot and don't tend to clog with ash and dust. On the horizontal delivery pipe, threaded into the Tee is threaded (at the other end) an air choke valve (a gate valve) to control the air flow from my too powerful fan (one of those from under a jacuzzi-type bathtub). The fan is also controlled by a 300 watt dimmer switch (usually used for domestic lamps) which enables me to slow the fan speed. From the fan to the choke valve is a piece of flexible 2" diameter plastic ducting pipe. This enables the fan to be some distance away from the whole rig. Just my way of doing it at the time. Nothing wrong with yours either. Although I have welding equipment my pipe set-up can actually be constructed without any welding. It just all screws together.
Since you used threaded pipe on your forge did you add a clinker breaker like in this video? I was thinking the slots for the clinker breaker might interfere with the pipe fitting into the cap. Or should I drill a hole below the threads, putting the handle thru the pipe and clinker breaker and then tack welding it in place? This would recess the breaker further down in the pipe. Which do you think is a more feasible construction?
For electric blowers, do what you gotta do at times, I respect that I do it too. But For anyone that's wanting to invest more check out a variacs, or even VFDs just be mindful how they are wired, and your on connections, and that it's Alternating current output. Some of these devices being used for blowers are using a Universal motor they may need some wires switched around, and some don't universal means they can work on AC, and DC. like an old school shop vacs the ones that pull several Amps I'm sure there's newer ones that use brushless motors, and a driver board. Which brings me up to my next bit the 12 volt blowers if any ones up too learn some electronic engineering you can build a pwm oscillator circuit that drives a mosfet and you can very the duty cycle of the blower it will control the output some but it's a little different!
Roy great build ... I always thought with a coal forge that you needed a some what deep fire pot like a pot with the dimentions 12in x 10in x 7in deep sloping to the centerfor a 3in bottom. I thought that you needed a deeper pot because you wanted your fuel to have the chance to burn off as much oxegen as possible before it gets to you piece so it limits oxidation on the piece. Thanks in advance id like to here your response. Sincerely, Martin M&S Blades
It does seem strange not to have the fire pot. I'm interested to see how this works. I also think the steel sides will not be high enough to prevent coal from falling off all the time once the fire bricks are in there.
Mine is very similar but I used threaded black iron pipe with a Tee piece for the junction. The final piece also has a threaded end onto which is screwed a stainless steel pipe cap - which has been drilled x 5 holes to blow the air. The iron pipe protrudes just through the base of a firepot (large hole drilled in the base to suit). The pipe cap prevents the pipe falling back through the hole. It also means that the holes in the cap are an inch or so above the base of the firepot and don't tend to clog with ash and dust.
On the horizontal delivery pipe, threaded into the Tee is threaded (at the other end) an air choke valve (a gate valve) to control the air flow from my too powerful fan (one of those from under a jacuzzi-type bathtub). The fan is also controlled by a 300 watt dimmer switch (usually used for domestic lamps) which enables me to slow the fan speed. From the fan to the choke valve is a piece of flexible 2" diameter plastic ducting pipe. This enables the fan to be some distance away from the whole rig.
Just my way of doing it at the time. Nothing wrong with yours either. Although I have welding equipment my pipe set-up can actually be constructed without any welding. It just all screws together.
Since you used threaded pipe on your forge did you add a clinker breaker like in this video? I was thinking the slots for the clinker breaker might interfere with the pipe fitting into the cap. Or should I drill a hole below the threads, putting the handle thru the pipe and clinker breaker and then tack welding it in place? This would recess the breaker further down in the pipe. Which do you think is a more feasible construction?
For electric blowers, do what you gotta do at times, I respect that I do it too. But For anyone that's wanting to invest more check out a variacs, or even VFDs just be mindful how they are wired, and your on connections, and that it's Alternating current output. Some of these devices being used for blowers are using a Universal motor they may need some wires switched around, and some don't universal means they can work on AC, and DC. like an old school shop vacs the ones that pull several Amps I'm sure there's newer ones that use brushless motors, and a driver board. Which brings me up to my next bit the 12 volt blowers if any ones up too learn some electronic engineering you can build a pwm oscillator circuit that drives a mosfet and you can very the duty cycle of the blower it will control the output some but it's a little different!
Awesome, Thank you for doing these videos Roy!!!!!!!
Really great videos. Thanks a lot for all the help. I've wanted to make my own forge for a long time. Your video helped a ton. Thanks again!
Cheers Roy, still looking in regards to my build
That's great Roy.
Sorry I haven't been watching your videos, I stated school this week and everything is hard. Hopefully I'll make it to the live stream!
School does have a tendency to keep you busy
Roy great build ... I always thought with a coal forge that you needed a some what deep fire pot like a pot with the dimentions 12in x 10in x 7in deep sloping to the centerfor a 3in bottom. I thought that you needed a deeper pot because you wanted your fuel to have the chance to burn off as much oxegen as possible before it gets to you piece so it limits oxidation on the piece. Thanks in advance id like to here your response. Sincerely, Martin M&S Blades
It does seem strange not to have the fire pot. I'm interested to see how this works. I also think the steel sides will not be high enough to prevent coal from falling off all the time once the fire bricks are in there.
Lookin awesome! Roy wont the klinker breaker handle be in the way of the burner/blower pipe?
Roy, don't you believe in Firepots?
It's hard to tell. I hope the blower motor doesn't interfere with the handle for the clinker breaker. I like the build so far.
What size pipe is that you used
Where do you pick up the magnets you use?
anyplace that sells welding supplies or amazon, just look up welding magnet