Dude that thing was drier than Brianna after a busy Friday and Saturday night spent behind a dumpster on skid row. Nice how to vid muh friend. Always love you vids and talent.
Excelente, muchas gracias, tu vídeo me sirvió para reparar la bomba de frenos de mi Jeep M38A1, de 1961. de nuevo gracias por tus claras explicaciones. Por cierto ambas bombas de freno son muy parecidas.
This will never work on original factory brake system without changing brake pedal rod pin for 0.6 inches longer . Original piston inside the master cylinder is shorter and new kit coming with longer piston and the inside hole where the pedal pin pushing is 0.6 inches deeper. So if you install master cylinder with the new longer piston inside then the pedal pin never reach the bottom of the piston and never push on the master cylinder.
This method is for stock piston..sounds like you might have gotten some altered aftermarket parts. Thanks for commenting and don't forget to subscribe 😉
Complete waste of time energy and money if there is any pitting & scoring in the cylinder bore she's toast. Cylinder bore Will need to be stainless steel sleeved if the casting will allow or replace with new assembly. Any pits & scores in a hydraulic cylinder will damage new cups / seals causing leakage internally externally or both depending on cylinder type. Highly recommend installing brake seals & pistons with silicone rich brake parts assembly fluid or brake hydraulic seal approved silicone grease. Silicone type used sparingly is far superior to brake fluid or castor oil based rubber grease . Silicone type lube on non pressure side of wheel cylinder piston can stop seizure of piston on vehicles not driven much that sit around. Silicone type coats the metal surfaces stops corrosion.
Dude that thing was drier than Brianna after a busy Friday and Saturday night spent behind a dumpster on skid row. Nice how to vid muh friend. Always love you vids and talent.
Thanks again man!! And yeah..that's pretty damn dry LOL
Amazing how you would know how dry Brianna is. Wanna tell us something.
Nicely done bud , its always nice watching you a real tech on youtube instead of a youtube tech :) Say hi to the lovely camera girl for me eh.
Hey Steve! Thanks man for swinging by again! Hope all is well up in Canada. My camera girl is currently shaving her beard, but i will let her know :)
Awesome! And man that Kroil never fails to work but never fails to give me a headache from the smell either 😂
Lol thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe 😉
Just a tip: When you punch the holes out, put a piece of wood under it. The punch will last a lot longer & won't damage it.
Yep ur right..I realized after I did that, that I forgot to put the wood under it lol thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
Great bench bleeding technique!!
Thank you
Great video - used it to check rebuild procedure for Harley shovelhead master cylinder, which is very similar.
Awesome! Glad u was able to help!
Nice little rebuild there Klowny, great job.
Thanks man
It works on a Clark forklift c500. The parts are similar. Great tutorial!
Cool! Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
Excelente, muchas gracias, tu vídeo me sirvió para reparar la bomba de frenos de mi Jeep M38A1, de 1961. de nuevo gracias por tus claras explicaciones. Por cierto ambas bombas de freno son muy parecidas.
Thank you don't forget to subscribe
Using an adjustable wrench (backwards) to remove the brake line?
How about a flare nut wrench?
What you do is use the flare nut to break it loose then use the adjustable..way easier that way. Don't forget to subscribe
Was it hard to find the repair kit? Was that model of master cylinder used in other makes?
Nice work on the Master Cylinder. That did not sound like Brianna! Camera Girl substitute?
lol yes Bryanna was MIA that day
Nice work
Thanks
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
yeah baby !😂
Yeah, Baby.
Wooo
Great Vid...needed a quick refresher...
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
Why not use a small ball peen hammer instead when cutting the gasket ? Makes life a bit easier making gaskets
This will never work on original factory brake system without changing brake pedal rod pin for 0.6 inches longer . Original piston inside the master cylinder is shorter and new kit coming with longer piston and the inside hole where the pedal pin pushing is 0.6 inches deeper. So if you install master cylinder with the new longer piston inside then the pedal pin never reach the bottom of the piston and never push on the master cylinder.
This method is for stock piston..sounds like you might have gotten some altered aftermarket parts. Thanks for commenting and don't forget to subscribe 😉
That camera girl sounds hot
She's was damn fine
USE DOT 4, FULL SYNTH. BRAKE FLUID
No need to yell
You forgot to paint it.
Dammit..I knew I forgot something!!
Lube that hole
Yeah baby
Complete waste of time energy and money if there is any pitting & scoring in the cylinder bore she's toast.
Cylinder bore Will need to be stainless steel sleeved if the casting will allow or replace with new assembly.
Any pits & scores in a hydraulic cylinder will damage new cups / seals causing leakage internally externally or both depending on cylinder type.
Highly recommend installing brake seals & pistons with silicone rich brake parts assembly fluid or brake hydraulic seal approved silicone grease.
Silicone type used sparingly is far superior to brake fluid or castor oil based rubber grease .
Silicone type lube on non pressure side of wheel cylinder piston can stop seizure of piston on vehicles not driven much that sit around.
Silicone type coats the metal surfaces stops corrosion.
Don't forget to subscribe 😉
No break booster? That must be one stiff brake pedal
fully manual baby..it's not too bad actually