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Review: Aoyue Int 474A++ Desoldering Station and Teardown
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2016
- In this video I review a desoldering station that I feel makes for a good entry level machine. Its cant compete with top brands like Hakko and Weller but for what it is, it pretty good. It has its good and bad aspects and overall I feel its the best bang for your buck if your looking at purchasing your first desoldering station.
The review did present a lot of information about the 474++ desoldering workstation and I have ordered one. I agree with David Ciesierski that the constantly repeating music in the background is very objectionable.
The spring is supposed to catch the solder. It allows air to pass but catches and quickly cools the solder. The flexibility helps you release it. You are supposed to grease it to make it even less able to stick.
The extra heating elements are easily available most anywhere the Aoyue stations are sold. sra-solder.com, for example.
The Hakko springs have the same problem. Some copper wool in the canister works much better.
Leo de Kam, medium coarse steel wool works fine, cheaper than copper. You can cut a small wad of metal pot/pan scrubber and stuff that in the collection- cylinder instead.
Actually the spring is there to catch the hot solder and provide a cold surface to solidify it quickly.
41:43 - The reason that via didn’t pull and the other one did was because it was a ground connected to the ground plane on both sides. The thermal mass of the ground plane is huge and will do this even with lead solder. You have to make sure it is melted on both sides, which takes a long time for something connected to a ground plane. Sometimes it won’t melt with the desoldering tip alone and you need to hit the other side with an iron at the same time, removing the iron just as you start the pull. Ground planes suck.
I just read on a blog that someone takes a handful of fiberglass blown in insulation from his attic and keeps some in a Ziploc bag. He then puts some of this into the spring filter which prevents the solder junk from ever getting to the spring or the round disk filter in the back.
that may not be a bad idea
They give you two rubber pieces because they give you two spring filters. This allows you to have a clean one ready to go when the one installed needs to be emptied/cleaned.
Thank you for this helpful review and teardown. The only thing I'd like to point out is that the music is kinda obnoxious and makes the info you're sharing harder to comprehend.
Dawid Ciecierski
The review did present a lot of information about the 474++ desoldering workstation and I have ordered one. I agree with David Ciesierski that the constantly repeating music in the background is objectionable.
Definitely noticed the Lightening Force (Thunder Force IV) music at the start. ;)
Those unpopulated component locators on the board are indeed for a companion soldering iron. I have their other model, an Int701A++. The iron has a solder smoke evacuation tube you switch the desoldering gun's suction tube with. Odd they didn't include a valve on that model. I got some aquarium parts and made an A/B valve. Also, lead-free solder (ROHS) has a melting point of 422C (217F) vs Leaded solder (Non-ROHS) at 361C (183F).
Hi thanks for the video just a thought try putting some silicone grease onto the spring it should stop the solder sticking
At 22:30 I don’t think that’s “wheat glue” or “Loc-tite.” I think it’s the same wax they put on the transport screw at the bottom. Like a wax seal on an envelope, it shows when someone tampers or remove the connector.
It's supposed to be caught by the spring... I have a hakko and it's the same. If hot solder is caught by the filter it will just burn and makes no sense. The vacuum hose connector being plastic is also built like a hakko as well. Your downfalls with this are not a problem at all. Just wanted to point that out for anyone looking to get one.
Hello. Thanks for the video, very informant. Left part of PCB is for components needed for 230VAC pump (the very first version). It had less suction (and less noise!) and seems more robust than 12VDC pump (your version). Please try to drop some flux (very little, a very small drop) on the destination pin and desoldering led free will be more uniform. Have a nice day.
You mentioned a replacement spring from Hakko. Is there a particular Hakko part or model number to keep in mind when ordering?
I got the ProsKit Version model SS Dash 331 for $190 and it is absolutely awesome. It’s still a Chinese kind of knock off deal but the quality of this one is really good. It has a switch mode power supply and you can change from Fahrenheit to Celsius in a few other features So far I’ve been really happy with it
I got one too. I think the silicon grease is for the spring internal, so the the solder doesn't stick. Lead free solder is always pain in the butt.
Sae Hian Lim The silicone grease is used as a sealant for the solder catcher to get a better seal for better suction.
RejectedManiac, that's not what the owner's manual says about the silicone grease. Although if you read my tips and modifications and tweaks below, you will see that I don't use the silicone grease at all. It's really not necessary and it makes things much Messier in the course of your work day on your project.
@31:20 Heat-up to 350 C (660 F) was 75 seconds.
I don't think it matters what brand of soldering station you're always cleaning it. We had the old Weller then the factory decided to use Pace it seemed like I spent about the same amount of time cleaning and maintaining either brand. I didn't think the more expensive Pace was any better than the antique Weller it replaced.
the Hakko suffers from all of these things too and costs a lot more. you have to do some prep work, like lubing the spring.(those all act the same) as well as constant solder clean out to avoid clogs.
The unused part of the board and front plate etc., is for the AOYUE 710 model that is a dual unit solder and desolder
The Hakko springs in my 472-D will be difficult to knock the solder out of if you don't wipe them down with SIlicone Grease. Nature of the beast. The solder will burn the fiber filter if it gets past the spring.
Tip erosion can be kept to a minimum by wiping it off and tinning between operations and tinning the tip before putting the gun away. Assuming the gun doesn't have an idle sensor... You should shut the station down if you aren't working with the iron for more than 60 seconds or so. My Soldering station automatically drops to idle temp when I place the iron in the stand.
If some model of Hakko tips and heater elements will fit the Aoyue gun I'd buy those direct from Hakko. The Chinese tips will erode faster than tips with decent plating.
For lead free, I always apply some solder before start using the gun. Sometimes just use flux
yeah i need to get some no-clean flux for that. regular flux just clogs the nozzle
The vacuum is very weak. Can I hook up my mini Shark Vac instead the mickey mouse pump in there ?
amigo me puedes decir las conesciones de la pistola los numeros de cada pin
starting to watch..
find it hilarious that you start talking about the membrane keys and the use of such
keys the choice and so forth.. meanwhile having a Hakko FX888D in the back that
uses the same membrane keys hahahaha..
From my perspective i’m exactly the same psychologically influenced by the perception
of quality in the case of the buttons.. still have to see the rest..
Look forward to an in-depth Teardown.
TuxKey, I wore a hole in the membrane over the on-off button with a couple of years of regular use.
41:30 Those lead free parts you showed where it didn't clear out the hole were attached to a massive ground plane. It had nothing to do with the solder being lead free
a few weeks ago i saw EEVblog talking about a cheap Aoyue soldering iron.. and it looked awful rusted reused chips.. is it me or do i detect the same here ??? older rusted chips ??? Recycled ??? and the unused part of the board points to something more going on hmmmm
I have serious criticisms of my Int701A++ user manual (the version of this bundled with a digital soldering iron). They don’t tell you what they mean by “cleaning” or how/where exactly to apply/use the grease. It’s a huge oversight. They just tell you that the grease is “for cleaning” and then tell you to “clean it.”
Emmett Turner, it would also be nice if the owners manual told you how to convert the digital display from centigrade to fahrenheit, which some might prefer; and even more helpful would be to know if there is a way to change the amount of time that the gun stays on before going into sleep mode. My Int 701 a-plus-plus shuts down automatically in like an hour or so even if I was still using it five or ten minutes previously.
@@goodun6081 To adjust the sleep timer for the desoldergun, hold the desolder button with the down button then adjust the time. According to the manual, t00 is supposed to disable the sleep function. Mine is the older AC pump version which resets the sleep timer and auto-wakes when I pull the trigger so I keep it set to 15 minutes. My understanding is that the newer units with the DC motors no longer auto-wake. Someone modded his Int423 to restore the auto-wake functionality and lower the amps going through the trigger using a MOSFET. I’m sure it would work with the Int701 too (same unit, plus soldering station).
Nice Teardown 100% thumbs up the inside looks good to me , as a noob..nice peace of mind.. One question if someone tried a different spring or hakko part in the Desoldering gun please let me know..
TuxKey, see my other tips and comments to other TH-camrs below.
i'm starting my research. but my first findings points towards Aoyue is brand targeted towards the china market. They are a stand alone brand that has bin around for a while..They have copied a Hakko soldering iron in the past but i don't think all their designs are knockoffs
Ow You Eh? I believe it's a Japanese company, but I can't find evidence either way, making me think they've either gone out of business, or have been absorbed by another company (SRA, probably, which is a US company). as for getting parts directly from SRA, look at their website www.sra-solder.com/ , looks no sketchier than Hakko's or Weller's.
Transformers are NEVER rated in amperage, always watts (or more correctly volt-amps, but that's just semantics).
Also, the filter springs are very easy to clean. and they seem to be the same ones Hakko used to use (they use a catch cup, now, which doesn't seem very bright)
And you might lose the rubber cap...I did with another brand and I HAD NO SPARE, AND COULDN'T BUY ONE FROM THE VENDER.
Great vid! At over a year and a half later, has this kept working for you?
Eric x sure has
SRA is a U.S. company that makes solder and such and will give you good support and they sell Aoyue equipment and parts. Also the spring is there to stop the HOT solder so it does not hit the filter. I'm not a big Aoyue fan boy but it's not bad. I do think you should do a bit of research before you do a review so you don't have to keep saying that your not sure if you can get parts on REAL brand of soldering equipment which are not a Hakko knock off.
Try putting the spring inside the tube, not against the rubber cap. Buddy
It isn't a 'spring filter', it's a spring designed to CATCH the solder and quickly COOL IT DOWN - it acts like a heatsink and the solder is supposed to catch on the spring so you don't need to replace the filter every time you use it. Additionally, because it's a spring and flexible, it helps clear the solder which catches on it.
DO NOT WET THE FILTER - It is a great way for liquid to make its way into the vacuum and short something out - you wouldn't suck up a bucket of water in your household vacuum, would you? Maybe if it is a wet-dry vac, but otherwise no...
The filters in these units ( desoldering ) are typically pancake style filters, so you can peel layers off of them as you use the unit.
Acecool The included sponge filters definitely need to be wet. The manual even says so. Some people use ceramic Hakko filters instead which don’t need to be wet. The sponge filters get destroyed by hot solder almost immediately if they aren’t wet. They also will not expand to fill the tube and solder can get in the air line.
So they're actual sponges and not 'filters' then? One of the first things I'd to is swap them out if I got this machine!
Acecool Yep. It’s close enough to a Hakko that many people use genuine Hakko ceramic filter. Not sure if it requires any modification.
Emmett Turner, I use hakko filters instead, I take the thinnest ones we have and cut them in half with a razor blade so they are half of that thickness, maybe about 1/8 in or a little more, so that I can get as strong a suction as possible. Those sponge filters, whether used wet or dry, are a poor excuse for proper filtration. When they arrived in their original compressed form, they don't let much air through at all; they do work a little better after you wet them and they expand, and then you allow them to dry before use; and if it's the best you've got lying around then I understand, but the Hakko filters are much better for regular and long term use. The ones I have been using are like a dense cotton or wool felt, theyre sort of yellowy in color like a buffing pad for use in a Dremel tool (typically with red rouge buffing compound), indeed I have a bunch of unused Dremel buffing pads lying around and I probably could even cut one of those a bit thinner as needed and use it.....but we have plenty of the Hakko filters at work.
By the way, I don't work much with lead-free solder, but I have heard that many modern organic based fluxes are highly corrosive, and I can imagine that lead-free solder fumes running through a wet Sponge-type Filter into the vacuum pump of the solder sucker is probably not good for the mechanisms!
Acecool, I have the 701 a-plus-plus dual soldering and desoldering unit at work. With a few tweaks and modifications of my own devising it works quite well.
I do not like the springy solder catcher as originally designed and intended. The tapered nipple end quickly clogs with solder and greatly restricts airflow, so you either keep swapping to a fresh clean spring or end up cleaning it out frequently as you work. Plus, you can't even handle that spring by hand to take it out of the machine unless you let it cool off for a while first, and that takes a while if it's full of solder!. I take that spring and cut the tapered end off to make it into a straight cylinder (don't use your best wire cutters, you might ruin the blade, use a Dremel tool and cut off wheel instead); and I don't bother to clip it onto the silicone rubber gasket either (as originally intended); instead, I put a little medium steel wool, or even some fine steel wool in the very bottom of the spring cylinder and just sit it in the plastic solder collection tube. It will pretty much sit in the center and virtually all the solder that gets sucked up off the circuit boards will splatter into the center of the spring and get caught by the steel wool at the bottom of the spring; it's also much easier to clean the modified spring out because it doesn't have that nipple end, and it also cools faster so that you can handle it, and it allows better airflow through the entire cylinder then using the unmodified spring in the manner which the designer in apparently intended.
Another major bonus is that the modified spring does not need to be greased, you won't have any trouble removing the solder from it even if you don't grease it!. Also, I stuff a little course steel wool, or even a wad cut from a kitchen-sink pots-and- pans scrub pad, the curly metal kind, into the very bottom of the plastic solder collection tube, up against the fine filter.
As for the silicone rubber gasket that the spring is supposed to kind of clip onto, I cut the extruded part of that gasket off short with a razor blade, which makes it easier to take the plastic solder collection tube or cylinder off the gun and then put it back on without the excessively long rubber gasket being in the way. And oh yes, I don't use the supplied sponge filters, I use a thin hakko filter stuffed in the bottom outlet side of the solder collection tube.
U may visit there website to know more about this brand
Aoyue is not a imitation solder/de solder machine and othe Rex power equipment maker. I saw there factory in China and it is pretty decent and have one of the reputed brand in this field, yes but not premium brand like weller, hakko or others. But they are th ORM for many brands and copy cats and there ROHS complainant IS REAL. Believe me I had a same opinion when I purchased there DC power supply unit in eBay .
LOL , quality is low, cheap
Just got this, and the grease looks like this: goo.gl/photos/h1LaVraP9R9m3qRGA
How do you apply it to the spring? With a finger?
Price
If the spring was Stainless Steel the solder would not stick to it.
+++++++++++
350 is way too hot , you`ll shag the gun in no time . Run it at 295 thats plenty
OMG kill the music if you can call it that
Useful vid but got sick of your comments running the Chinese origin of the product down. Makes me wonder why you bought it in the first place with such a low opinion. It is what it is, get over it and just review what's in front of you.
Good job Hakko is not based out of China/Japan..... www.hakko.com/english/company/profile/access.html
Furious Weasel What are you talking about? Even your link shows that Hakko is from Japan.
@@emmettturner9452 He was being pedantic . He was saying that china / japan cant be that bad because Hakko are out of there , BUT , Japan and china and WORLDS apart in terms of quality .
David Haney Exactly. It makes even less sense unless he expects us to stupidly equate the two like he does. Everyone else today knows that Japanese stuff is generally considered high quality, even the people who deride Chinese quality. Heck, that was the prevailing sentiment even decades ago. Not sure how this Furious Weasel guy didn’t get the memo and somehow thought it was just some stand-out brand of “Chinese/Japanese” product.
In Back to the Future, Marty McFly goes back in time to the ‘50s and meets a younger Doc Emmett Brown and they have the following exchange:
Doc: "No wonder this circuit failed; it says 'Made in Japan'."
Marty: "What do you mean, Doc? All the best stuff is made in Japan."
Doc: “Unbelievable.”
Marty is from the ‘80s, so it’s been another 30 years since the general population was expected to get that joke. Guess this Furious Weasel guy is stuck in the ‘50s when sentiment towards Japanese holds was the same as Chinese goods and people were more likely to equate them just because they are both Eastern races. Really bizarre.
@@furiousweasel752 you realise that "Made in Japan" is one of the BEST things you can see on a product? Its absolutely nothing like seeing Made in China
it looks Chinese so it must be a rip-off.
i don't know what brand they copied but it's a rip-off
I just bought one,, 2 week it will be here.. nasty girl
Bud, you can’t compare a h**ko w****er to this item.. lead free soLder sucks big time, use flux and leaded solder to reflow previous to using the machine.. you’ll find it works well beyond its means… the other said brands are all for the money side, I’m in Australia and I have purchased the said item and it works awesome… good video for a simpleton.. 👎🏻🇦🇺
Were you playing Mario Karts during filming? What the hell is that music? And the constant china bashing is making you look kinda racist… The machine seems fine but you keep sowing doubts because it’s not made in MAGA.
This throughole desoldering is very well made, spare parts are cheap, everything is good in this product.
The drill bit is no longer available without the handle. You have to spend much more to replace it now. :(