@@RobertBakerGuitar ok because my El cheapo indonesian made DGT is perfection...my 2016 Les Paul on the other hand.... its another topic for another day geez😤
Words I’ve trustfully lived by for a quarter century- “It’s almost always the nut, and even when it’s not the nut, it’s probably still the nut.” - random guitar tech in Birmingham circa 1998
"Words I’ve trustfully lived by for half a century- “It’s almost always the nut, and even when it’s not the nut, it’s probably still the nut.” - random guitar tech in San Francisco circa 1967
A friend of mine offered me a '96 fender squier stratocaster in return for an nt-1a I had and I took the swap because I was looking forward to trying out some upgrades. Played it, noted some issues, bought up tuning pegs, a new trem, new pickups, new wiring, pots, the whole shebang. Changed the nut first to a graphtec, cleaned up and polished the neck and frets, and thought I'd throw the strings back on to try it out, and it was like a different guitar. Getting the motivation up to switch out the rest of the parts has been an uphill struggle ever since...
Bro, this is the insider stuff that nobody cares to share, but it is solid gold. Thanks for sharing and I am glad you got that beauty of a guitar back up and running. Well done!!
One of the age-old adages is if the guitar has tuning problems, the nut is always the first thing to check. It is also why I put graphite nuts on all my guitars.
I agree. You don't need that fancy 10-Top, or the quilt maple neck. It does not make the sound any better, nor does the gaudy Coral Reef Burst paint scheme. All of that is ONLY for looks, for people who ONLY care about looks. As a minimalist, I can confirm less is more. On the topic of PRS, give me an S2. For something like Fender, give me a slab with MOPAR paint. Simple, simple, simple. That is all you need, and all you ever will need.
I am going to disagree. Paul Reed Smith USA has needlessly gaudy paint jobs, and Private Stock is usually some sort of rainbow, or uses inlays to create images. Meanwhile, the fanciest a Les Paul usually gets is a mismatched top. As for Stratocasters, there is nothing artistic about solid paint with a flat plastic pickguard, or not even bothering to paint the headstock.
I have a PRS USA Standard 24 that would not stay in tune despite widening the nut slots. The problem turned out to be the truss rod - which had no tension on it. It would be in tune and over a few minutes - as the guitar warmed up from contact with my body - the neck would move slightly - throwing the tuning out. As soon as I put a slight tension on the rod the problem went away. I never would have thought about this but I saw someone in a forum talk about the possibility - and he was right.
@@sideonsid2885 No - all I had to do was add a very small amount of tension to make the rod touch the wall of the truss rod cavity inside the neck - but not enough tension to make the neck bend - like an 1/8 of a turn - until I felt the tension on the nut change.
Almost nobody should or have to do this. Unless neck relief is wrong. Not with a PRS Core. Check relief by pressing at 3rd fret and checking for pings on top of 3rd. (Google technique if you don’t know what I mean.)
Same problem with my SG. Changed the nut, and now it’s perfect. The luthier said that the nut is often too thick on new guitars. Anyway, a graphtech nut solved the problem.
This is a very common issue with PRS's that doesn't get discussed enough because the company floods the internet and social media with "pros" who gush over the instrument. Yes, they are well crafted guitars, but for the money they charge, even their "budget friendly models," they should be built to stay in tune. This is a couple of hundred dollars minimum of set up work. At some point the company has to be called out on this.
Holding tune is _easily_ as much about a proper setup as it is about a proper build. _ALL_ brand new instruments need to be set up for a given player. There's no possible way for any manufacturer to guarantee a perfect out-of-the-box experience for any arbitrary player after an arbitrary amount of shipping/storage/retail time, that's a ridiculous unrealistic expectation, it doesn't matter how much money you spend.
@@17Codiferus No, that's not true. When you play guitars such as Knagg's, Andersons, Nik Hubers and other high end boutique guitars, the setup is almost perfect. High end PRS's consistently have set up issues. The company has always claimed to make one of the finest guitars on the market. One can forgive their more budget friendly models for being pretty much like any other guitar in that price point, but when a company retails a guitar for $3,000 or more, then yes, there should be almost no set up issues.
@@robertnisonoff3907 perfect for what exactly? What if I play slide? What if I like extremely heavy or extremely light strings? What if I like my action extremely low and am willing to accept a moderate amount of buzz? What if I play in whacky wildcat tunings that _require_ bridge, intonation and/or neck relief corrections? Even if an instrument plays acceptably for a given player out of the box there are many situations where a techs attention may still be required to prepare an instrument for a _working_ player. If you're a bedroom/hobby/novice player then _perhaps_ a guitar might "just work" for you.I don't know a single professional musician that would unbox an instrument and then immediately perform with it, 100% would go through their tech (that's me) first, without exception regardless of the instruments cost. Edit: spelling
That's why locking nuts in a Floyd Rose works so well. Also looked down upon by many, because they got a bad name in the 70's, a Zero fret can eliminate those issues, especially with stock type tremolos.
@@216trixie I agree but it's different when it's a zero fret and the strings are resting on it always. I know from personal experience and owning many high end guitars.
Locking nuts are great if you only play with one tuning. For me I would rather have to tune up my guitar for 3 seconds every now and then and not have to get another guitar when I want to play in drop D.
Just from your videos at Glazers I’m convinced they are the best repair shop in the world… Some of my most frustrating moments in my life have come from working on my guitars, but I always walk away before I destroy something and I always learn something from those moments. Take care…
One really important thing w PRS trems especially, besides making sure the nut is cut well, is to make sure when you change strings that the rear of the trem is supported to avoid fouling the knife edge and screws into the body. I use a folded pack of Elixirs and wedge under the rear id the trem during string changes to keep trem perfectly level. Also, make sure to lubricate the knife edge with a small drop of 3-in-1 oil, to do this I use a tooth pick or flosser and dip into a small amout of oil, then apply it to the screw/knife edge. I have seen people not do this and it will let the trem come off the slots in the screws and it causes major issues.
I've had the nut gauge for a few months. It really works and gives you confidence you're filing the nut to the correct height without requiring years of experience. Highly recommended!
I’ve got a DGT myself and I love it. Stays in tune well. I think all guitar players should have an understanding of the nut. I’ve replaced nuts on my other guitars as needed and it’s not that difficult to understand. Buy yourself a set of nut files and you have them for life. My rule of thumb is if in doubt come back to it tomorrow. A couple of passes of the file to much and it’s over but you can always start again.
No matter the quality of the instrument sometimes things are just beyond the grasp of us mortals. Can't overstate the importance of having access to a master luthier. It will save much frustration. Good video.
@@EJH-jn6mothe tech said it had 11s on it, and I doubt that's what it left the factory with. If that's the case, the problem was Robert's fault for changing string gauges without the proper setup.
I agree. Why I refuse to pay for ANY guitar what you could buy a decent used car for. I've played $**t LP'S and a GIO that ran like a Ferrari. 🤷♂️ Edit/ I have a recently purchased EVH Wolfgang special that was great from the start. After the first string change(25-30 hrs) I'm having issues with. Going to take it to a Wizard and pay$$ to have it dealt with. I'm not a rookie in setting up guitars...but this b@tch is maddening. It plays fantastic, but not impressed with the mechanics.
@@EJH-jn6mo Nuts wear, nothing is forever. I was under the impression that it had 11’s which is normal for DGT’s, but another gauge was put on. This will be an issue without work. The wear of the previous string will slightly alter the best case for the new. You heard them talking. They’re talking about tiny tolerances. Personally and as long as the nut is correct I think that floating a trem/vibrato is the best way to keep a guitar designed with a floating Trem in tune. Locking them down invites other issues. I would like to have heard these guys opinions about using a bit of lube (nut sauce) at the break points to reduce wear and help coming back in tune when using the trem. Bottomline PRS has highest degree of QC of any guitar manufacturer period.
What was the point of not just replacing the nut? Seems silly to have the tech shim the nut instead of just putting in a new one. Especially when he stated at 1:08 that the issue was it being made out of bone. Why not just put in a Graphtech?
The problem with the nut was the nut that didn't bother doing anything with the nut before he installed a gauge of string that the nut was not cut to work with to Begin with. But that's not his only problem. As soon as he tries to use his tremolo it's going out of tune again because he's got it locked down flat and it's not designed like that. The knife edge is no longer sitting in the slots cut for it In the set screws. He's also wrapping the strings around posts that are not designed to have the strings wrapped around them. I'm thinking his guitar guy has never seen one of these guitars before. It's a good video though on who not to bring your guitar to if you need something done to it😂. And it's a really good example of why you Try to learn how to set up your guitars when you're dealing with a high-tech high-end manufacturer that does everything differently from everybody else.
@@grahamstuart9164 WTF are you trying to say bro? That whole redundant first paragraph could be “the nut was cut for the wrong gauge of strings” and you would be correct.
@@HBSuccess The impression he deliberately tries to give is that the guitar was faulty from the factory. I simply pointed out all the stupid things that he did with that $4000 guitar that made it unplayable. With a little bit of sarcasm mixed in. And I pointed out that the Repair guy either did not know what he was doing or he was padding the bill Because he realized the guy that brought in the guitar is an idiot. 3 things contributed to the problem and he only fixed one. The bridge is improperly set up. The tuners are not being used properly. And they threw in a new nut After the customer destroyed the one that the factory installed.
@@grahamstuart9164 were you watching some other video? because in _this_ video the guy immediately found the problem, the strings catching in the nut that was also too low, then easily fixed it by slightly shimming and then re-cutting the slots so the strings didn't bind anymore sorry, but all that other stuff you're talking about had nothing to do with anything
replacing the nut would have been a _whole_ lot more work compared to the properly done shim and re-cut procedure he did here! replacements never just drop in, they always have to be sanded and shaped and filed and graphtech is fine but i wouldn't choose it over a real bone nut (again as long as it was properly filed)
Even if he would have chosen a replacement bone nut, that would have been preferable to two pieces of sandpaper for a shim. I can’t imagine a professionally replaced bone nut would have hurt the value of the guitar. I can say that if I inspected this guitar before offering to buy it, seeing those shims would affect what I’d pay for it.
@@zyonsdream Sure, a properly seated and cut bone nut would've been better than a shim. The new nut won't hurt the value anymore than a shim would and it give enough problems down the line which would require a nut replacement anyway. Do the job properly the first time saves headaches later on.
One of my strat had tuning stability issue. Just a few seconds after tuning strings up, it goes sharp or flat. I replaced the nut with Graphtech nut and the problem is gone. I learned later that, even if you're not using tremolo at all, or even guitar with fixed bridge, strings still moves under tension created by your finger. It moves back and forth across the nut. And if the nut is not cut properly, it could bind the string and the tuning will go off. Nut with lube seems to less prone to this issue as it's lesslikely to bind the string. My other strat has oil-impregnated bone nut. This one seems to work well as well.
My Strat, i fine sanded and shaped the Nut slots, greased them with car bearing grease ( minute amounts of grease, cause thats what i have) also fine sanded the saddles and greased all contact points, pivot points, incl where the strings go through the Tremelo, stays in tune now using the Tremelo, not an expensive guitar either
I've had great luck lubricating the nut slots with graphite from an ordinary #2 pencil on all my guitars. They tune, and stay in tune, much better. It's easy to do; just twirl the pencil tip in each slot and rub the resulting graphite dust into each slot with your finger.
Using a pencil (graphite lube) certainly helps, but the bottom of the nut slot needs to be rounded to just be slightly over the size of the string gauge.
When I work refinishing piano keys 2:18 as a Young Man , I used to glue together Ivory key tops in form my own nut with epoxy and then carbon shape the nut out myself with my BOSS'S HELP of course but IT REALLY WORKED WELL AS FAR AS I REMEMBER 3:50 and thanks for sharing !!!
Kudos to these guys who really know their thing about the nut! This is the first time I agree 100% with a “nut talking” moment. Even though I’m not a luthier, I’m a nut-nut (pan intended) because during the years I realized how critical it is in the setup. Actually it was my 2004 PRS Custom 24 who “taught me” how a good nut setup should be. I also love the fact they criticized that unreasonable wave of people saying the slots must be shallow because “the string has to stick out of the upper nut profile”
Wonderful. I sold my prs after 4 years in case. But got an old Tele. Ans an old Martin acoustic. Ĵust 20 instruments around me. Life is bliss. And your videos are entertaining
I had a custom 24 S2 that stayed in tune somewhat but here in sw Florida nothing stays in tune when you play outside. My issue was the trem. I never use one and when the guitar came in I hooked up the bar and worked it a bit. After a while I noticed that the bridge on the treble side had slipped off of the shoulder of the end adjustment screw. I pulled the strings off of it, reset the entire bridge and trem, restrung it....and it did it again. Then I remembered the person I bought it from said he had the action adjusted and I'm betting it was done with tension on the strings which means death to the bridge and to replace it was too much so the next owner was willing to deal with it. Then I went to G&L with a 2 point trem and all is good. Absolutely love the DGT.
You’re excited and happy to have your guitar back lol! I have a Larrivee acoustic that the high E when played open started sounding dead like something was choking it slightly. It was very subtle but noticeable. Sounded fine whenever fretted, but played open it just didn’t sound clear and vibrant. Anyway I stopped playing it because it was just annoying and I didn’t want to pay someone $60+ to fix it. Eventually I bought some nut files and reslotted the nut and it sounds amazing again. Made me so happy! Enjoy that DGT!
I had the same problem. It was my first PRS. I sent it back rather than sink more money into a new guitar that I feel shouldn't have had that problem in the first place. Got an Ibanez, and it's been my go to guitar since then.
I’ve had a Core Custom 24 that I bought around 2010 or so.. I’ve never been able to keep it in tune. Just restringing it is a nightmare. As I get one string in tune.. the remaining five strings go out of tune. Seriously.. I always start my practice sessions with tuning the guitar.. it usually eats up approximately 30 minutes to get it “close”.. I’ve always assumed that it was the tremolo causing the issue. I was so disappointed that whenever I bought a new guitar, I tried to opt for a fixed bridge. Last year I bought a PRS SE 24-08 and had them bottom out the tremolo so it acts like a fixed bridge. It stays in tune (unlike its much more expensive brother). In the past I’ve come close to “blocking” the Custom 24’s bridge.. but in case I ever want to sell it.. I didn’t want to modify it. I think I need a talented guitar tech look in to the nut.. The guitar originally came with either 9’s or 10’s on it. I’ve got pretty bad arthritis and put 8’s on it soon after I purchased it… Thanks for this video.. You may have just solved a 14 year headache!
What a FANTASTIC video! Nick and Joe unlock all the mystery associated with nut height and angles, etc. Great job, Robert! Everyone at Joe’s shop is fantastic at what they do. I’ve never picked up a guitar after having it repaired there that wasn’t just perfect. ❤
I had a similar issue with a CE24. Recut the nut, no change. Completely replaced the nut no change. I couldn't solve it. Tech couldn't solve it. Finally replace the trem with a Mann Made and the problems went away.
Oh man I wish you would have posted this video a while back. I bought a new core DGT that came in with that same problem straight from the factory: Tight nut slots. I tried to work on the nut myself to no avail until I had enough and ended up taking the guitar to my tech who determined that he couldn't work on the slots because the tolerances at the first fret were very tight already (same situation shown in your video) so he just replaced the nut using a blank bone nut and the problem went away for good...I must say I am very surprised to read so many comments about this being a problem on PRS core guitars, they are supposed to be almost "perfect" but it seems they are not, LoL. BTW, The PRS DGT is a HELL of a guitar, just amazing!
You’ve confirmed what I suspected was wrong with my Fender tele that I bought about a year ago and I’ve barely played. I just can’t get it to stay in tune. I’ve changed everything except the nut. Now that I’ve checked, it’s clearly binding at the nut on a few strings.
@RobertBakerGuitar Bone nuts have a nice tone but the slots tend to get "sticky." This is very problematic for guitars with a vibrato (tremelo) and so I prefer to use Tusq XL nuts on guitars with a vibrato as they have great tone and are self lubricating. That said, some people just prefer the tone of a bone nut. If that is the case, just as they demonstrated in this video you need to make sure that not only are the nut slots cut to proper depth, they also must be cut to the correct width so that the strings do not bind in the slot. In addition, some lubricant in the slots when you change the strings will also keep the string from binding in between string changes provided the nut slots are cut correctly. FYI, I ordered the nut slot guage as I do a lot of set ups, and this tool will be a nice addition to my nut slot tools. Thank you Robert.
I have 2 Custom 24 that had the same issue. The 1st one I just replaced the nut with a Tusq XL and the 2nd one it was just the D string slot. Adjusted that one and it's been fine since.
Thanks man. Great video. Normally in videos replacing a nut, it's guys who may not be professionals OR companies showing you how to fix the nut but really it's more of a infomercial for tools they are selling. Nice to sit with a luthier who's not trying to make content or sell you anything. No disrespect to you as a content creator.
I've had a PRS CE since 1991 , and it never goes out of tune. The trem is the best I've ever played ( including a Japanese Strat that had a double locking system. My guitar has a synthetic ( Tusk?) nut, and I never have strings binding ( even the heavier wound ones) in the nut or anywhere else. This is obviously what's wrong with your guitar. I should add that the guitar was so badly set up that it was almost unplayable for the first 11 months I had it ( not PRS's fault, but how the shop set it up following my requests) I ginally bit the bullet , pulled the neck off adjusted the intonation set the neck as I wanted, and lowered the bridge saddles, and finally had a brilliant guitar that plays better than any of my other ones.
Hey Robert, Thanks for making this. My new PRS won’t stay in tune either! know this is unusual for PRS, their great tuning stability is one of the reasons we buy them yeah? My Custom 22 is great, but the 509 is going to my luthier for the nut to be tickled to. Some good tips in this video. Thank you to all involved. 😀
I took mine to a luthier who knew exactly what the problems were that a few had tried to sort. Changed the saddles to graphite and the nut to something different. Also ripped out the flaky PCB switching system and put in a tap switch. Had very few issues since.
My 2023 PRS DGT Gold Top Core would not stay in tune from the very beginning. PRS had me send it to them under warranty. They replaced the bone nut with a graphite nut and that was the fix. Now it stays consistently in tune.
I have a Yamaha Pacifica 612 that held perfect tune for two years. One day it stopped holding tune. I wound up swapping the Graphtech nut (they fortunately make spares) but it didn’t help much. I then realized that I decreased my tremolo’s float angle at one point so I reraised it, and the problem was solved!
I thought you were going to block the bridge, as that was what I was told would work to solve the problem on my PRS. I didn't end up doing it and my tech was able to get things pretty dialed in, but he didn't do anything to the nut, so this was particularly interesting to see this. Thanks much.
I got a brand new Tremonti SE and same thing with the nut. Very tight and I couldn't even get it in tune from the start. It was always moving off for nearly each string so I just knocked the old nut out and put in a Graph Tech. Never had a problem and that guitar could sit in a stand for months on end and still be in tune. I hate the way PRS does their nuts.
Bonjour from France, In 2008 I bought a 2003 PRS CE 24 and It’s been my main giging guitar ( 50 gigs every year) .I never play it at home. I only replaced the volume pot and had the frets sanded once. I plan to refret it , in order to feel the wonderful sensations of the first years. I hate the jack sock on the side. No nut problems.
Got an SE C24 3 years ago, never changed the strings on it (I know, I know.) and have only ever needed to tune it maybe 4 or 5 times, mostly when the weather changes. Once went 4-5 MONTHS with out taking it out of the gig bag and was almost perfectly in tune still.
I do my own guitar maintenance/setups and it's always cool to see other technicians work, especially people who know their sh1t like this guy, cool tip about that slot gauge tool, a regular gauge that fit's a high E slot can also be used as long as it is straight.
This is actually a fascinating video! I love leaning all this stuff. Thanks for the deep dive! I love my PRS and was curious as to why you said you weren't playing it. Now it all make sense :) Enjoy!
I have zero problems with tuning stability with my American made CE or my Indonesian CE. My baritone is likewise amazing. The McCarty has some issues, probably because it is the most like a Les Paul. My two Les Pauls, as is to be expected, are made to go out of tune and out of tune they go, on the reg.
My PRS is a 2005 McCarty and although I've owned several more fancy and innovative things, this guitar has always been my favorite. It sounds fantastic, looks and feels great (it's already slightly naturally relic'd) and is always stable (high quality woods, wraparound bridge + locking tuners). This particular guitar came into my hands by accident, was already in played condition and felt and sounded as if I had played it for 10 years myself, so I immediately sold things to get it before anyone else took it. Meanwhile I got it PLEK'd and always polish the frets when changing strings. It's just perfect. I have to admit that I recently put Suhr Thornbuckers in after having the only issue I've ever had with this guitar: The ground cable (braided wire) bypassing the electronics mid-gig by hitting some output contact... That was the only thing that ever happened, and it wouldn't if I haven't replaced a potentiometer somewhen.
I have a 35th Anniversary SE Custom 24--love everything about it... except it won't stay in tune. I had the stock nut (a horrible composite material) professionally replaced with a Black TUSQ nut, and replaced the stock tuners with PRS locking tuners. And STILL it won't stay in tune. It's been in the case for two years--sad. I ended up buying a Yamaha RSP20 (Japanese made) to take its place, which does stay in tune.
I know what you mean about PRS and staying in tune. PRS nuts are a headache here as well. Both of my PRS (SE) guitars got 2 things and stay in tune very well. Locking tuners and a Graph Tech TUSQ XL nut. The C24 also got a Babicz Full Contact bridge and I love it. Going to put one on my Swamp Ash Special too. Have them on my Strats as well. All happy tone monsters that stay in tune.
I see the Music Nomad nut files there. Being used without the yellow plastic holders. Never found it nessessary to take them out of the handles unless I'm replacing one.
Love the DGT. And I really appreciate this video: I have a 2000 McCarty Model. The tuning issues didn't used to bug me too much - it would be "close enough", but after owning an Anderson (which would intonate perfectly), I've nearly lost my mind over my PRS tuning/intonation issues. I was going to get a replacement bridge (adjustable), but was advised to focus on the nut instead. Looking for someone in the SF Bay Area who can pull this off (without me losing my shirt).
Same prob with my SE. I lightly polished the nut slots with 800 grit sandpaper and lubed the slots. Stays in tune beautifully! I’m sure they could do much better, but it solved my problem well enough 👍
I had bought a SE, wouldn't stay in tune... the 3 bottom strings would stay in tune, the 3 upper strings, if I bend more than 1/2 a step, it would make all the strings flat... sent it back, major issues with the tremelo, the gave me another guitar. This was April of this year.
Just curious. The nut and nut slot are critical in the setup of a guitar. So would changing guitar string gauge mean also the need to change the nut? I’m assuming manufacturers will cut the nut according to a specific string gauge
I had a local guitar shop "set it up" by raising the trem mounting screws whilst still strung and with no regard to PRS instructions. It was terrible for years.
Wow ! Thanks for sharing this ! I’ve got 2 Custom 24 Quilt tops, Sapphire and cherry sunburst. So far, no out-of-tune issues whatsoever in humid as hell Thailand, but good to know where to look if this ever occurs !!! 😎🇺🇸🇹🇭🇺🇸⚓️🎸✅☕️😸🤠😎
well the zero fret _does_ need to be taller than the rest; it just needs to be _barely_ taller than the rest, not "a few sizes bigger" like you're complaining about (and yeah, i see that too and it's annoying, strings are a mile high over the first fret) i'd say that using a zero fret of the same size as the rest but leveling the other frets first and _then_ installing the zero fret (so it's untouched) would give us all the height difference we need
I have had a couple of guitars with the exact same issue including my PRS Vela. I usually replace them with a well cut bone nut ( or even brass ) also adding a bit of big bends nut sauce and the issues go away. I believe ( no proof ) that the plastic and composite nuts are softer. Strings seem to glide better over the harder bone nut. My Danelectro 59 NOS came with an aluminum nut and works great. No matter what material it needs to be cut properly.
No matter if its stock or not always always always do a dry fit with the nut and get those E strings aligned from the fret board edges...both bass side and treble side.
What a fascinating piece Robert! Never heard of nuts being ‘too low’ from the factory (especially PRS!) Some great insights into luthiery - ordered the gauge promptly! 🥰🥰🎸🎸🍺🍺
Dear Robert, I had the same issue with that bone nut. I contacted PRS Europe and they sent me a self lubricating nut which instantly made the job after my luthier put it in of course. Sure you have no floyd rose but I can dive down a hole note without any detuning. PRS please watch the video and read this. I mean honestly a 5K guitar needs a redone or replaced nut? Come on! Anyhow love my DGT!
Yep, I worked at Gibson guitars in Bozeman Montana. I worked at Guitar Center in El Toro, California and definitely the nut is the culprit most of the time….
Interesting! I have to disagree though with the opinion stated about the strings (nuts slots) not needing to be progressively higher as you go from the treble strings to the bass strings at the first fret. I believe they most certainly do. Reason being that the bass strings are at a lower tension and have a wider oscillation path than the treble strings. The wider path requires more space so you don't hear the strings hitting the first fret when the string is played open. When you are fretting the note as you move up the fretboard, your finger pressing on the string stabilizes the string to a certain extent. Your finger isn't there to do that when the string is played open though, thus the string requires more space to oscillate without an inordinate amount of noise. Also, I thought all PRS guitars had graphite nuts.
I have been so confused as to why my CU24 is the most constantly out-of-tune guitar I own. I tune and tune and tune to the point it just sits collecting dust! Will look at this nut issue. Makes total sense. Great video!!
I always use a little bit of Dr. Ducks string lube on a cotton swab for the ear and put it on the string right at the nut and bye bye tuning problems ✌️✌️✌️
Just curious, did your CE 24 that you use to own have the same problem? I’ve had my CE 24 for a while now and it stays in tune better than all of my other guitars
My 2002 Custom 24 is a hardtail, the only time it gets out of tune is if there is a dramatic change in temp/humidity. Ditch the tremolo and give it a go!
Couple weeks since we shot this and the PRS is still holding tune like a BOSS.
@@RobertBakerGuitar I have the same PRS. I'll have to check the nut and head stock out Robert.
American made or indonesian?
@@martinlahaie6012 American
@@RobertBakerGuitar ok because my El cheapo indonesian made DGT is perfection...my 2016 Les Paul on the other hand.... its another topic for another day geez😤
My Core DGT does the same thing! I think PRS USA should move some of their Indonesian employees to the States…at least their setup guys.
Words I’ve trustfully lived by for a quarter century- “It’s almost always the nut, and even when it’s not the nut, it’s probably still the nut.”
- random guitar tech in Birmingham circa 1998
Safe bet that fellow was right. Some would say: “little or no angle on the headstock, how can a PRS go out of tune!?!?”
"Words I’ve trustfully lived by for half a century- “It’s almost always the nut, and even when it’s not the nut, it’s probably still the nut.”
- random guitar tech in San Francisco circa 1967
@pat5882 "how can a PRS go out of tune" ?
Ahhhhh,..the nut slots are binding the strings ??
A friend of mine offered me a '96 fender squier stratocaster in return for an nt-1a I had and I took the swap because I was looking forward to trying out some upgrades. Played it, noted some issues, bought up tuning pegs, a new trem, new pickups, new wiring, pots, the whole shebang.
Changed the nut first to a graphtec, cleaned up and polished the neck and frets, and thought I'd throw the strings back on to try it out, and it was like a different guitar. Getting the motivation up to switch out the rest of the parts has been an uphill struggle ever since...
Musical Exchanges? :D I'm also from the area and heard the same thing 😂
Bro, this is the insider stuff that nobody cares to share, but it is solid gold. Thanks for sharing and I am glad you got that beauty of a guitar back up and running. Well done!!
One of the age-old adages is if the guitar has tuning problems, the nut is always the first thing to check.
It is also why I put graphite nuts on all my guitars.
Great advice. As much as I love PRS’ I think Paul is bit over the top about his tone chasing.
I agree. You don't need that fancy 10-Top, or the quilt maple neck. It does not make the sound any better, nor does the gaudy Coral Reef Burst paint scheme. All of that is ONLY for looks, for people who ONLY care about looks.
As a minimalist, I can confirm less is more. On the topic of PRS, give me an S2. For something like Fender, give me a slab with MOPAR paint. Simple, simple, simple. That is all you need, and all you ever will need.
Prs’s look good, but they have never made an artistic statement. Les Paul’s, and strats have.
I am going to disagree. Paul Reed Smith USA has needlessly gaudy paint jobs, and Private Stock is usually some sort of rainbow, or uses inlays to create images.
Meanwhile, the fanciest a Les Paul usually gets is a mismatched top. As for Stratocasters, there is nothing artistic about solid paint with a flat plastic pickguard, or not even bothering to paint the headstock.
@@ThatBaritoneGuitarGuy Hendrix, Jimmy Page, and Alex Lifeson. Get back to your cubicle.
Sweet! It goes to show how many different things affect tuning stability, happy to see you saved your DGT from the sell pile.
I have a PRS USA Standard 24 that would not stay in tune despite widening the nut slots. The problem turned out to be the truss rod - which had no tension on it. It would be in tune and over a few minutes - as the guitar warmed up from contact with my body - the neck would move slightly - throwing the tuning out. As soon as I put a slight tension on the rod the problem went away. I never would have thought about this but I saw someone in a forum talk about the possibility - and he was right.
By increasing tension you mean putting the neck in a back bow ?
@@sideonsid2885 No - all I had to do was add a very small amount of tension to make the rod touch the wall of the truss rod cavity inside the neck - but not enough tension to make the neck bend - like an 1/8 of a turn - until I felt the tension on the nut change.
Thanks for the tip. I never thought of that.
Almost nobody should or have to do this. Unless neck relief is wrong. Not with a PRS Core. Check relief by pressing at 3rd fret and checking for pings on top of 3rd. (Google technique if you don’t know what I mean.)
It seems very weird to me that would've worked for you. PRS guitars have a dual-action truss rod, so they are never really truly tight or truly loose.
John Suhr has a great 5min video about setting up a guitar.
Anything but a PRS
... So does Joe Walsh, and it's simplistically brilliant!
And he builds great instruments.
Same problem with my SG. Changed the nut, and now it’s perfect. The luthier said that the nut is often too thick on new guitars. Anyway, a graphtech nut solved the problem.
This is a very common issue with PRS's that doesn't get discussed enough because the company floods the internet and social media with "pros" who gush over the instrument. Yes, they are well crafted guitars, but for the money they charge, even their "budget friendly models," they should be built to stay in tune. This is a couple of hundred dollars minimum of set up work. At some point the company has to be called out on this.
Holding tune is _easily_ as much about a proper setup as it is about a proper build. _ALL_ brand new instruments need to be set up for a given player. There's no possible way for any manufacturer to guarantee a perfect out-of-the-box experience for any arbitrary player after an arbitrary amount of shipping/storage/retail time, that's a ridiculous unrealistic expectation, it doesn't matter how much money you spend.
@@17Codiferus No, that's not true. When you play guitars such as Knagg's, Andersons, Nik Hubers and other high end boutique guitars, the setup is almost perfect. High end PRS's consistently have set up issues. The company has always claimed to make one of the finest guitars on the market. One can forgive their more budget friendly models for being pretty much like any other guitar in that price point, but when a company retails a guitar for $3,000 or more, then yes, there should be almost no set up issues.
@@robertnisonoff3907 perfect for what exactly? What if I play slide? What if I like extremely heavy or extremely light strings? What if I like my action extremely low and am willing to accept a moderate amount of buzz? What if I play in whacky wildcat tunings that _require_ bridge, intonation and/or neck relief corrections? Even if an instrument plays acceptably for a given player out of the box there are many situations where a techs attention may still be required to prepare an instrument for a _working_ player.
If you're a bedroom/hobby/novice player then _perhaps_ a guitar might "just work" for you.I don't know a single professional musician that would unbox an instrument and then immediately perform with it, 100% would go through their tech (that's me) first, without exception regardless of the instruments cost.
Edit: spelling
That's why locking nuts in a Floyd Rose works so well. Also looked down upon by many, because they got a bad name in the 70's, a Zero fret can eliminate those issues, especially with stock type tremolos.
Zero frets are awesome, but they tend to wear out pretty fast, even the stainless steel ones.
@@nantan9453I gigged a guitar heavily for 5 years with stainless steel frets. Not even a mark on any of the frets.
@@216trixie I agree but it's different when it's a zero fret and the strings are resting on it always. I know from personal experience and owning many high end guitars.
Locking nuts are great if you only play with one tuning. For me I would rather have to tune up my guitar for 3 seconds every now and then and not have to get another guitar when I want to play in drop D.
@@No_Lucks_Given D-Tuna is your Floyd Rose Friend, Drop-D in 1 second. Faster than tuning.
Just from your videos at Glazers I’m convinced they are the best repair shop in the world…
Some of my most frustrating moments in my life have come from working on my guitars, but I always walk away before I destroy something and I always learn something from those moments. Take care…
One really important thing w PRS trems especially, besides making sure the nut is cut well, is to make sure when you change strings that the rear of the trem is supported to avoid fouling the knife edge and screws into the body. I use a folded pack of Elixirs and wedge under the rear id the trem during string changes to keep trem perfectly level. Also, make sure to lubricate the knife edge with a small drop of 3-in-1 oil, to do this I use a tooth pick or flosser and dip into a small amout of oil, then apply it to the screw/knife edge. I have seen people not do this and it will let the trem come off the slots in the screws and it causes major issues.
I've had the nut gauge for a few months. It really works and gives you confidence you're filing the nut to the correct height without requiring years of experience. Highly recommended!
I’ve got a DGT myself and I love it.
Stays in tune well.
I think all guitar players should have an understanding of the nut.
I’ve replaced nuts on my other guitars as needed and it’s not that difficult to understand.
Buy yourself a set of nut files and you have them for life.
My rule of thumb is if in doubt come back to it tomorrow.
A couple of passes of the file to much and it’s over but you can always start again.
No matter the quality of the instrument sometimes things are just beyond the grasp of us mortals. Can't overstate the importance of having access to a master luthier. It will save much frustration. Good video.
This isn’t an SE though. For this amount of $ this shouldn’t happen.
@@EJH-jn6mothe tech said it had 11s on it, and I doubt that's what it left the factory with. If that's the case, the problem was Robert's fault for changing string gauges without the proper setup.
@@wea69420 The DGTs all come with 11s standard on them from the factory
I agree. Why I refuse to pay for ANY guitar what you could buy a decent used car for. I've played $**t LP'S and a GIO that ran like a Ferrari. 🤷♂️
Edit/ I have a recently purchased EVH Wolfgang special that was great from the start. After the first string change(25-30 hrs) I'm having issues with. Going to take it to a Wizard and pay$$ to have it dealt with. I'm not a rookie in setting up guitars...but this b@tch is maddening. It plays fantastic, but not impressed with the mechanics.
@@EJH-jn6mo
Nuts wear, nothing is forever. I was under the impression that it had 11’s which is normal for DGT’s, but another gauge was put on. This will be an issue without work. The wear of the previous string will slightly alter the best case for the new. You heard them talking. They’re talking about tiny tolerances.
Personally and as long as the nut is correct I think that floating a trem/vibrato is the best way to keep a guitar designed with a floating Trem in tune. Locking them down invites other issues. I would like to have heard these guys opinions about using a bit of lube (nut sauce) at the break points to reduce wear and help coming back in tune when using the trem.
Bottomline PRS has highest degree of QC of any guitar manufacturer period.
What was the point of not just replacing the nut? Seems silly to have the tech shim the nut instead of just putting in a new one. Especially when he stated at 1:08 that the issue was it being made out of bone. Why not just put in a Graphtech?
The problem with the nut was the nut that didn't bother doing anything with the nut before he installed a gauge of string that the nut was not cut to work with to Begin with.
But that's not his only problem.
As soon as he tries to use his tremolo it's going out of tune again because he's got it locked down flat and it's not designed like that. The knife edge is no longer sitting in the slots cut for it In the set screws. He's also wrapping the strings around posts that are not designed to have the strings wrapped around them.
I'm thinking his guitar guy has never seen one of these guitars before.
It's a good video though on who not to bring your guitar to if you need something done to it😂.
And it's a really good example of why you Try to learn how to set up your guitars when you're dealing with a high-tech high-end manufacturer that does everything differently from everybody else.
@@grahamstuart9164 WTF are you trying to say bro? That whole redundant first paragraph could be “the nut was cut for the wrong gauge of strings” and you would be correct.
@@HBSuccess The impression he deliberately tries to give is that the guitar was faulty from the factory.
I simply pointed out all the stupid things that he did with that $4000 guitar that made it unplayable. With a little bit of sarcasm mixed in.
And I pointed out that the Repair guy either did not know what he was doing or he was padding the bill Because he realized the guy that brought in the guitar is an idiot.
3 things contributed to the problem and he only fixed one.
The bridge is improperly set up.
The tuners are not being used properly.
And they threw in a new nut After the customer destroyed the one that the factory installed.
@@grahamstuart9164 were you watching some other video?
because in _this_ video the guy immediately found the problem, the strings catching in the nut that was also too low, then easily fixed it by slightly shimming and then re-cutting the slots so the strings didn't bind anymore
sorry, but all that other stuff you're talking about had nothing to do with anything
replacing the nut would have been a _whole_ lot more work compared to the properly done shim and re-cut procedure he did here! replacements never just drop in, they always have to be sanded and shaped and filed
and graphtech is fine but i wouldn't choose it over a real bone nut (again as long as it was properly filed)
If you brought it to me, my advise would have been to replace the bone nut with a properly cut Tusque XL nut
Even if he would have chosen a replacement bone nut, that would have been preferable to two pieces of sandpaper for a shim. I can’t imagine a professionally replaced bone nut would have hurt the value of the guitar. I can say that if I inspected this guitar before offering to buy it, seeing those shims would affect what I’d pay for it.
@@zyonsdream Sure, a properly seated and cut bone nut would've been better than a shim. The new nut won't hurt the value anymore than a shim would and it give enough problems down the line which would require a nut replacement anyway. Do the job properly the first time saves headaches later on.
One of my strat had tuning stability issue. Just a few seconds after tuning strings up, it goes sharp or flat. I replaced the nut with Graphtech nut and the problem is gone.
I learned later that, even if you're not using tremolo at all, or even guitar with fixed bridge, strings still moves under tension created by your finger. It moves back and forth across the nut. And if the nut is not cut properly, it could bind the string and the tuning will go off. Nut with lube seems to less prone to this issue as it's lesslikely to bind the string.
My other strat has oil-impregnated bone nut. This one seems to work well as well.
My Strat, i fine sanded and shaped the Nut slots, greased them with car bearing grease ( minute amounts of grease, cause thats what i have) also fine sanded the saddles and greased all contact points, pivot points, incl where the strings go through the Tremelo, stays in tune now using the Tremelo, not an expensive guitar either
I've had great luck lubricating the nut slots with graphite from an ordinary #2 pencil on all my guitars. They tune, and stay in tune, much better. It's easy to do; just twirl the pencil tip in each slot and rub the resulting graphite dust into each slot with your finger.
That's what she said.
You had me on the first half not gonna lie
I find the pencil trick only works for a short time. Not a good long term solution.
Using a pencil (graphite lube) certainly helps, but the bottom of the nut slot needs to be rounded to just be slightly over the size of the string gauge.
When I work refinishing piano keys 2:18 as a Young Man , I used to glue together Ivory key tops in form my own nut with epoxy and then carbon shape the nut out myself with my BOSS'S HELP of course but IT REALLY WORKED WELL AS FAR AS I REMEMBER 3:50 and thanks for sharing !!!
Kudos to these guys who really know their thing about the nut! This is the first time I agree 100% with a “nut talking” moment. Even though I’m not a luthier, I’m a nut-nut (pan intended) because during the years I realized how critical it is in the setup. Actually it was my 2004 PRS Custom 24 who “taught me” how a good nut setup should be. I also love the fact they criticized that unreasonable wave of people saying the slots must be shallow because “the string has to stick out of the upper nut profile”
Wonderful. I sold my prs after 4 years in case. But got an old Tele. Ans an old Martin acoustic. Ĵust 20 instruments around me. Life is bliss. And your videos are entertaining
I am right about 20 instruments also too.
I had a custom 24 S2 that stayed in tune somewhat but here in sw Florida nothing stays in tune when you play outside. My issue was the trem. I never use one and when the guitar came in I hooked up the bar and worked it a bit. After a while I noticed that the bridge on the treble side had slipped off of the shoulder of the end adjustment screw. I pulled the strings off of it, reset the entire bridge and trem, restrung it....and it did it again. Then I remembered the person I bought it from said he had the action adjusted and I'm betting it was done with tension on the strings which means death to the bridge and to replace it was too much so the next owner was willing to deal with it. Then I went to G&L with a 2 point trem and all is good. Absolutely love the DGT.
Robert you are always such a huge source of guitar information. You help players so much. Just love all your videos. Keep it up.
I'm having the same issue with my PRS...a local repair shop made it slightly better...gonna send him this video, thanks!
Thanks!
You’re excited and happy to have your guitar back lol! I have a Larrivee acoustic that the high E when played open started sounding dead like something was choking it slightly. It was very subtle but noticeable. Sounded fine whenever fretted, but played open it just didn’t sound clear and vibrant. Anyway I stopped playing it because it was just annoying and I didn’t want to pay someone $60+ to fix it. Eventually I bought some nut files and reslotted the nut and it sounds amazing again. Made me so happy! Enjoy that DGT!
I had the same problem. It was my first PRS. I sent it back rather than sink more money into a new guitar that I feel shouldn't have had that problem in the first place. Got an Ibanez, and it's been my go to guitar since then.
I’ve had a Core Custom 24 that I bought around 2010 or so.. I’ve never been able to keep it in tune. Just restringing it is a nightmare. As I get one string in tune.. the remaining five strings go out of tune. Seriously.. I always start my practice sessions with tuning the guitar.. it usually eats up approximately 30 minutes to get it “close”.. I’ve always assumed that it was the tremolo causing the issue. I was so disappointed that whenever I bought a new guitar, I tried to opt for a fixed bridge. Last year I bought a PRS SE 24-08 and had them bottom out the tremolo so it acts like a fixed bridge. It stays in tune (unlike its much more expensive brother). In the past I’ve come close to “blocking” the Custom 24’s bridge.. but in case I ever want to sell it.. I didn’t want to modify it. I think I need a talented guitar tech look in to the nut.. The guitar originally came with either 9’s or 10’s on it. I’ve got pretty bad arthritis and put 8’s on it soon after I purchased it… Thanks for this video.. You may have just solved a 14 year headache!
What a FANTASTIC video! Nick and Joe unlock all the mystery associated with nut height and angles, etc. Great job, Robert! Everyone at Joe’s shop is fantastic at what they do. I’ve never picked up a guitar after having it repaired there that wasn’t just perfect. ❤
They truly are the best
I had a similar issue with a CE24. Recut the nut, no change. Completely replaced the nut no change. I couldn't solve it. Tech couldn't solve it. Finally replace the trem with a Mann Made and the problems went away.
I was working on this yesterday... Perfect timing for this video. Loved it.
Great, Very Usable content from some of the best in the business...Thanks for Sharring !
Oh man I wish you would have posted this video a while back. I bought a new core DGT that came in with that same problem straight from the factory: Tight nut slots. I tried to work on the nut myself to no avail until I had enough and ended up taking the guitar to my tech who determined that he couldn't work on the slots because the tolerances at the first fret were very tight already (same situation shown in your video) so he just replaced the nut using a blank bone nut and the problem went away for good...I must say I am very surprised to read so many comments about this being a problem on PRS core guitars, they are supposed to be almost "perfect" but it seems they are not, LoL. BTW, The PRS DGT is a HELL of a guitar, just amazing!
You’ve confirmed what I suspected was wrong with my Fender tele that I bought about a year ago and I’ve barely played. I just can’t get it to stay in tune. I’ve changed everything except the nut. Now that I’ve checked, it’s clearly binding at the nut on a few strings.
Always open to tips from Glazers. Great vid Mr Baker .
@RobertBakerGuitar Bone nuts have a nice tone but the slots tend to get "sticky." This is very problematic for guitars with a vibrato (tremelo) and so I prefer to use Tusq XL nuts on guitars with a vibrato as they have great tone and are self lubricating. That said, some people just prefer the tone of a bone nut. If that is the case, just as they demonstrated in this video you need to make sure that not only are the nut slots cut to proper depth, they also must be cut to the correct width so that the strings do not bind in the slot. In addition, some lubricant in the slots when you change the strings will also keep the string from binding in between string changes provided the nut slots are cut correctly. FYI, I ordered the nut slot guage as I do a lot of set ups, and this tool will be a nice addition to my nut slot tools. Thank you Robert.
Thanks for this awesome info. I learn so much watching these Nashville guys. Also incredible tools. Thanks for sharing 👍
I have 2 Custom 24 that had the same issue. The 1st one I just replaced the nut with a Tusq XL and the 2nd one it was just the D string slot. Adjusted that one and it's been fine since.
Thanks man. Great video. Normally in videos replacing a nut, it's guys who may not be professionals OR companies showing you how to fix the nut but really it's more of a infomercial for tools they are selling. Nice to sit with a luthier who's not trying to make content or sell you anything. No disrespect to you as a content creator.
Same problem with my PRS SE Tremonti.
Very useful video.
Thanks.
Good advice about pushing down the string at the first fret to get rid of that arch that happens with a brand new string.
I've had a PRS CE since 1991 , and it never goes out of tune. The trem is the best I've ever played ( including a Japanese Strat that had a double locking system. My guitar has a synthetic ( Tusk?) nut, and I never have strings binding ( even the heavier wound ones) in the nut or anywhere else. This is obviously what's wrong with your guitar. I should add that the guitar was so badly set up that it was almost unplayable for the first 11 months I had it ( not PRS's fault, but how the shop set it up following my requests) I ginally bit the bullet , pulled the neck off adjusted the intonation set the neck as I wanted, and lowered the bridge saddles, and finally had a brilliant guitar that plays better than any of my other ones.
Bought the nut gauge. Thanks for pointing it out Robert!
Hey Robert,
Thanks for making this. My new PRS won’t stay in tune either! know this is unusual for PRS, their great tuning stability is one of the reasons we buy them yeah? My Custom 22 is great, but the 509 is going to my luthier for the nut to be tickled to. Some good tips in this video. Thank you to all involved. 😀
I took mine to a luthier who knew exactly what the problems were that a few had tried to sort. Changed the saddles to graphite and the nut to something different. Also ripped out the flaky PCB switching system and put in a tap switch. Had very few issues since.
My 2023 PRS DGT Gold Top Core would not stay in tune from the very beginning. PRS had me send it to them under warranty. They replaced the bone nut with a graphite nut and that was the fix. Now it stays consistently in tune.
I have a Yamaha Pacifica 612 that held perfect tune for two years. One day it stopped holding tune. I wound up swapping the Graphtech nut (they fortunately make spares) but it didn’t help much. I then realized that I decreased my tremolo’s float angle at one point so I reraised it, and the problem was solved!
This should never be an issue, considering the price of these. But I'm happy to see it tuned out alright 🤘
It started it's life set up with heavier gauge strings, he wanted lighter strings. Adjustments are inevitable.
I thought you were going to block the bridge, as that was what I was told would work to solve the problem on my PRS. I didn't end up doing it and my tech was able to get things pretty dialed in, but he didn't do anything to the nut, so this was particularly interesting to see this. Thanks much.
I got a brand new Tremonti SE and same thing with the nut. Very tight and I couldn't even get it in tune from the start. It was always moving off for nearly each string so I just knocked the old nut out and put in a Graph Tech. Never had a problem and that guitar could sit in a stand for months on end and still be in tune. I hate the way PRS does their nuts.
Bonjour from France,
In 2008 I bought a 2003 PRS CE 24 and It’s been my main giging guitar ( 50 gigs every year) .I never play it at home.
I only replaced the volume pot and had the frets sanded once.
I plan to refret it , in order to feel the wonderful sensations of the first years.
I hate the jack sock on the side. No nut problems.
Got an SE C24 3 years ago, never changed the strings on it (I know, I know.) and have only ever needed to tune it maybe 4 or 5 times, mostly when the weather changes. Once went 4-5 MONTHS with out taking it out of the gig bag and was almost perfectly in tune still.
Nice closeup of the new Space Control bridge on Nick's desk!! 🙂
I do my own guitar maintenance/setups and it's always cool to see other technicians work, especially people who know their sh1t like this guy, cool tip about that slot gauge tool, a regular gauge that fit's a high E slot can also be used as long as it is straight.
This is actually a fascinating video! I love leaning all this stuff. Thanks for the deep dive! I love my PRS and was curious as to why you said you weren't playing it. Now it all make sense :) Enjoy!
Using a led pencil in the nut slots is a good old trick to reduce friction too :)
Incredible information very helpful. Will need to get that gauge. Didn't know that there was a DGT in that color as well very nice!
I have zero problems with tuning stability with my American made CE or my Indonesian CE. My baritone is likewise amazing. The McCarty has some issues, probably because it is the most like a Les Paul. My two Les Pauls, as is to be expected, are made to go out of tune and out of tune they go, on the reg.
My PRS is a 2005 McCarty and although I've owned several more fancy and innovative things, this guitar has always been my favorite. It sounds fantastic, looks and feels great (it's already slightly naturally relic'd) and is always stable (high quality woods, wraparound bridge + locking tuners). This particular guitar came into my hands by accident, was already in played condition and felt and sounded as if I had played it for 10 years myself, so I immediately sold things to get it before anyone else took it. Meanwhile I got it PLEK'd and always polish the frets when changing strings. It's just perfect. I have to admit that I recently put Suhr Thornbuckers in after having the only issue I've ever had with this guitar: The ground cable (braided wire) bypassing the electronics mid-gig by hitting some output contact... That was the only thing that ever happened, and it wouldn't if I haven't replaced a potentiometer somewhen.
I have a 35th Anniversary SE Custom 24--love everything about it... except it won't stay in tune. I had the stock nut (a horrible composite material) professionally replaced with a Black TUSQ nut, and replaced the stock tuners with PRS locking tuners. And STILL it won't stay in tune. It's been in the case for two years--sad. I ended up buying a Yamaha RSP20 (Japanese made) to take its place, which does stay in tune.
I know what you mean about PRS and staying in tune. PRS nuts are a headache here as well. Both of my PRS (SE) guitars got 2 things and stay in tune very well. Locking tuners and a Graph Tech TUSQ XL nut. The C24 also got a Babicz Full Contact bridge and I love it. Going to put one on my Swamp Ash Special too. Have them on my Strats as well. All happy tone monsters that stay in tune.
I see the Music Nomad nut files there. Being used without the yellow plastic holders. Never found it nessessary to take them out of the handles unless I'm replacing one.
my se custom 24 keeps falling out of tune too, going to attempt to block the trem but otherwise theres not much i can do for it
it's the nut. 99% of the tuning issues are the nut.
Since the 80's I have always put graphite in the nut slots every string change and no problems.
Love the DGT. And I really appreciate this video: I have a 2000 McCarty Model. The tuning issues didn't used to bug me too much - it would be "close enough", but after owning an Anderson (which would intonate perfectly), I've nearly lost my mind over my PRS tuning/intonation issues. I was going to get a replacement bridge (adjustable), but was advised to focus on the nut instead. Looking for someone in the SF Bay Area who can pull this off (without me losing my shirt).
Gary Brower
The white tuner buttons are very cool.
Same prob with my SE. I lightly polished the nut slots with 800 grit sandpaper and lubed the slots. Stays in tune beautifully! I’m sure they could do much better, but it solved my problem well enough 👍
I had bought a SE, wouldn't stay in tune... the 3 bottom strings would stay in tune, the 3 upper strings, if I bend more than 1/2 a step, it would make all the strings flat... sent it back, major issues with the tremelo, the gave me another guitar. This was April of this year.
Fascinating craft . And incredible problem solving skills .
Some major invaluable wisdom they shared in this. Thank you!
I bought a new PRS around 4 years ago that had the same problem. I f'd around with it for 2 months before I replaced the nut and solved the problem.
Just curious. The nut and nut slot are critical in the setup of a guitar. So would changing guitar string gauge mean also the need to change the nut? I’m assuming manufacturers will cut the nut according to a specific string gauge
I had a local guitar shop "set it up" by raising the trem mounting screws whilst still strung and with no regard to PRS instructions. It was terrible for years.
Wow ! Thanks for sharing this ! I’ve got 2 Custom 24 Quilt tops, Sapphire and cherry sunburst. So far, no out-of-tune issues whatsoever in humid as hell Thailand, but good to know where to look if this ever occurs !!! 😎🇺🇸🇹🇭🇺🇸⚓️🎸✅☕️😸🤠😎
Finally a tech that agrees with me that a zero fret doesn't need to be a few sizes bigger than the rest of the frets...
well the zero fret _does_ need to be taller than the rest; it just needs to be _barely_ taller than the rest, not "a few sizes bigger" like you're complaining about (and yeah, i see that too and it's annoying, strings are a mile high over the first fret)
i'd say that using a zero fret of the same size as the rest but leveling the other frets first and _then_ installing the zero fret (so it's untouched) would give us all the height difference we need
GraphTech nut?
The Graphtech nuts on my Parkers are both originals and tuning stability is Floyd Rose steady.
they are good
Dude, I watch literally 20 different guitar streams. Yours is tops. This one helped me today.
Love your content, but I don’t usually expect to pick up tech tips. I work as a tech and picked up that tool immediately. Thanks for sharing.
I have had a couple of guitars with the exact same issue including my PRS Vela. I usually replace them with a well cut bone nut ( or even brass ) also adding a bit of big bends nut sauce and the issues go away. I believe ( no proof ) that the plastic and composite nuts are softer. Strings seem to glide better over the harder bone nut. My Danelectro 59 NOS came with an aluminum nut and works great. No matter what material it needs to be cut properly.
No matter if its stock or not always always always do a dry fit with the nut and get those E strings aligned from the fret board edges...both bass side and treble side.
What a fascinating piece Robert! Never heard of nuts being ‘too low’ from the factory (especially PRS!)
Some great insights into luthiery - ordered the gauge promptly! 🥰🥰🎸🎸🍺🍺
Great video point, nut always have a major responsibilty to keep all in tunning
OMG, you have just fix my strat. I had this problem with it. A million thanks !
Dear Robert, I had the same issue with that bone nut. I contacted PRS Europe and they sent me a self lubricating nut which instantly made the job after my luthier put it in of course. Sure you have no floyd rose but I can dive down a hole note without any detuning. PRS please watch the video and read this. I mean honestly a 5K guitar needs a redone or replaced nut? Come on! Anyhow love my DGT!
Yep, I worked at Gibson guitars in Bozeman Montana. I worked at Guitar Center in El Toro, California and definitely the nut is the culprit most of the time….
I have the same issue with my Custom 24 core model. Sounds great but won't stay in tune.
Interesting! I have to disagree though with the opinion stated about the strings (nuts slots) not needing to be progressively higher as you go from the treble strings to the bass strings at the first fret. I believe they most certainly do. Reason being that the bass strings are at a lower tension and have a wider oscillation path than the treble strings. The wider path requires more space so you don't hear the strings hitting the first fret when the string is played open. When you are fretting the note as you move up the fretboard, your finger pressing on the string stabilizes the string to a certain extent. Your finger isn't there to do that when the string is played open though, thus the string requires more space to oscillate without an inordinate amount of noise.
Also, I thought all PRS guitars had graphite nuts.
I have been so confused as to why my CU24 is the most constantly out-of-tune guitar I own. I tune and tune and tune to the point it just sits collecting dust! Will look at this nut issue. Makes total sense. Great video!!
I have a Eastman T486 in for repairs at this time for the exact same thing. I am having the guitar Plek to make sure everything is right.
I had the exact same problem with a 2017 PRS SE (aqua green from sweetwater). just wouldnt stay in tune.
I always use a little bit of Dr. Ducks string lube on a cotton swab for the ear and put it on the string right at the nut and bye bye tuning problems ✌️✌️✌️
Dang…. I was soooo ready to buy that hunk of wood from you…because I LOVE my DGT. Glad you’re up and running again with PRS’ best guitar!
Had the exact same issue with a CU22 SE and to have it shimmed as well.
Those fret guru nut slot files are pretty great.
Excellent content here, my brother....appreciate the effort and thanks for sharing!
Just curious, did your CE 24 that you use to own have the same problem? I’ve had my CE 24 for a while now and it stays in tune better than all of my other guitars
Nope that thing was solid as a rock
My 2002 Custom 24 is a hardtail, the only time it gets out of tune is if there is a dramatic change in temp/humidity. Ditch the tremolo and give it a go!
The half a string in the nut thing is in the guitar repair text that Dan erlwine wrote.
I need a dude like this. Plus he's got a chill vibe and voice lol