To anyone watching this, the clips held by T30s on the back are VERY easy to snap. Highly recommend just breaking them if you can't get them off. Saved me a lot of time.
26:04 LOL. Ha ha!! Finally dude you showed a bit of frustration while doing these incredibly frustrating jobs. LOL. I'm not laughing at you I'm laughing WITH YOU! LOL. I'm so glad you are showing your human side as I was beginning to think you were almost perfect or non emotional as you always seem so calm and collected and never seem to get mad while doing the work. Awesome Job as always! Thank you for doing these very hard to do and hard work jobs while videoing them. I know it's not easy at all to do them both at the same time and takes at least twice as long for any job to get done! Oh and thanks for the one and only swear word I think I've ever heard you say. I'm extremely impressed with your incredible self control!
I always know your videos when I hear the word "actual" every 30 seconds. Lol love your content! Good work!! but demonstrated how I don't want to actually do this job on my back in my driveway.
honestly seems a lot easier than how ive seen most do it on here, makes me feel a lot better about doing this! especially since i was just working down in that area doing my downpipes haha
Such an excellent job of videoing this job! Thank you! I wish someone would do a full video of doing the XI version of this job. There's almost nothing and what there is is not even close to good. Thanks again.
Great video man. On the stock diverter valve connections they may assume you have an after marker charge pipe which usually comes with clamps and caps for those holes. Not that assuming is the right thing to do.
For the t30 screws on the rear inlet if you break them lose with the locking pliers method you can use a 4mm Allen wrench to take them the rest of the way off
Great video. I’m ordering mine today. If you haven’t done high performance coil packs, you should. It made a big difference on mine after I did my carbon cleaning. And FTP charge pipe along with VRSF down pipes.
kneecaps2000 I’m swapping my n54 due to a spun bearing/engine knock and I’m trying to figure out everything I should do while the motor is out. I’m all stock, & I have an Xdrive so definitely thinking down pipes, & inlets.
kneecaps2000 my guess is probably rod, stock internals. Probably due to oil starvation. I just bought the car drove it about 5 times and the final time I drove it really hard. It started knocking 5 mins from my house. When I got to park I Checked the oil filter and there was a bunch of gold glitter in there and with heavy smell of gasoline. So that’s probably from leaking injectors is what everyone who’s experienced this has stated on the forums. Smh & It had the new index 12 injectors installed back in 2010 so idk how that could’ve happened.
kneecaps2000 yeah sadly. It’s gonna be big job to swap. Especially on xdrive. Debating if should get new injectors or just change the seals on them for the donor motor
@@RadioactiveTurtle88 took it out again and lubed tf outta the bottom elbow part. And pushed it in. Make sure you put the top part of the inlet in the top part of the turbo. Not the bottom side. This also helped me alot i was doing the bottom side
@@4037joel thanks! I'm going to try it, Im still having trouble putting the sh** in. But what do you mean the bottom and top side if the inlet? You mean you had the sides confused?
Vehicular DIY that's what I've been reading as well. I hope to one day go RB turbo. So I figured I might as well get them done. I will probably hold off if the install is too difficult though. Thanks for the reply!
Hey guys, I recommend using white LED rope light and a good (Coast) headlight. Observing the constant adjusting of that light wand has raised my anxiety and blood pressure level.
I wonder if the front inlet will be pulled closer to the pulleys with a stock location type intake/air box? If that’s the case I might make some sort of bracket to hold it away from the pulleys...
Hello, Thanks for reply. You know what? I cut two pieces of plastic about 14”L x 8” H them in each side I put a lot of vaseline. After that one piece was located in front to the firewall and the other one in front to the engine block cover up to top of head valve. Then I passed the inlet between the two plastic goes all the way down without problem. I had to remove the hook that keeps in place the oem inlets to add more room. Underneath between the firewall and the transmission that corner was bend it with a piece of wood. Connect the clamp, downpipes, steering rack and DCI. That’s it! but your video help me a lot! Thanks for share. Next DIY LPFP Stage 2 assembly. 👍🏻
Not a bad idea! Except one of the bolts that holds that intake pipe is stripped for me, so i had to cut it out. No room to drill and use a screw extractor or anything.
Hey man , got a question for you please, whenever you install the inlets, did you remove the front turbo compressor hosing inlet rubber adapter ? If not do you think the mom 2 inch inlet would fit over it ? Also did the rear hosing has a adapter also ? Thanks
I'm curious why you didn't relocated the excess coolant tank and vacuum canisters, then just put the DCI's on the left side? It's straighter, shorter and increases power. It also increases the room in front of your pulley's since you wouldn't have that large tube running in front of them. I'm also wondering why your blowoff valves are on the inlets instead of the charge pipe????
Do you thiunk that in e82 there can be less space for the rear inlet pipe? It seems to be touching the wall after I installed it...(i got MMP stock location inlets)
Where do you buy these DV adapters (the one you wrap with green tape at 13:31)? I bought some inlets from Amazon and doesn't come with any kind of adapters. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I’m doing a bunch of the bolt on upgrades all at once…VRSF 7.5 FMIC, cold and hot side charge pipes, charge pipe with TiAL BOV, cold air intake, turbo outlet pipe, and both front and rear turbo inlet pipes, and of course, down pipes. I’m also upgrading the valve cover to aluminum (had a gasket leak so might as well), index 12 injectors, high performance coil packs, 2 step colder plugs, a JB4 tune, and walnut blasting the cold side of the intake valves. My question is regarding the rear turbo inlet pipe removal and install of the new one, mostly because it seems to be becoming a real pain in the ass, in my situation, having to remove the valve cover and intake manifold to do the other parts of the job, would it be easier to take them off prior to trying to remove the stock plastic rear inlet pipe? It’s rigid plastic and doesn’t seem to have clearance. Would this avoid the need to cut it or lower the motor to get it out whole? And second, what is a solution to the flat bracket that holds the lower part of that pipe? It certainly looks like it will be in the way of the new silicone pipe. I haven’t been able to figure out a way to get at the bolt that holds it on, and it seems like it would be very precarious to try to cut it out, and I don’t see a way to move it out of the way? Thanks in advance for any productive insight!
Great Job and explanation. I have a question, is it true that you get some Turbo Lag when you install the Modified (larger diameter) Inlet, Charge Pipe and the DCI ? I have a BMW 1M and I'm interested to do the same setup you did but I still want to keep the car as stock as possible. I like the characteristics of the car. If I change all these parts and also change a downpipe and a sport exhaust and the finally add a Tune . I'm sure the gain in power will be a lot, but will the car be as much fun as a stock???
The only way you'd get more lag is with a bigger intercooler, in theory, frankly the stock one is pretty restrictive so you would mostly feel the benefits of having denser air. The chargepipe upgrade is a must since stock charge pipe can handle stock boost, any more than that and yours might go (mine did). Having downpipes will ease the turbo and it'll spool faster, having inlets to the turbos will allow turbos to suck in more air quicker so again, better spool time, the cai won't do anything on this car. So will it be as much fun as stock? no, because it will be more fun. JB4 FBO is easy 400 to the wheels, conservatively.
Nice Job Dude! Great Videos! I started using Virtual Dyno after watching your setup. Searching for a cheap upgraded Intercooler for my 2009 535xi. Also, are you using xHP for the Trans Tune? You should look into it if you are not. It is great! Stage 2 for the 535 is just Mint!!
Love your 336i diy. Your very knowledgeabLe and very detailed. Quick question.... I want to do inlets but not sure which type would give me the most power. Relocation or stock location? Do people go with relocation because of easier install? ... your input would be help me greatly since I really hold your knowledge in high regards
Hey, I know I'm late to the video lol. What did you end up doing for the bell housing bolts? Did you just keep them hand tight or is their a certain spec they need to be torque'd to? This is the only question I have after watching the video through and through, awesome video, thank you!
How did you slide the rear inlet down so easily!? I thought it would be easy lmao, maybe I didn’t put enough Vaseline. I spent 3-4 hours trying to get the rear inlet into position. So hard to make it budge. Basically stuck 6 inches from the turbo
Just put in the MMP inlets. I was able to get the metal bracket, on the backside of the engine, off the car. It’s held in by one t-30 torx screw. I was sort of simultaneously doing the valve cover gasket and engine & trans mounts. Since the cats were out of the car, it makes it really, really easy to get the passenger side mount out. At any rate, because the valve cover was off, I was able to slide the special, mini-drill bit ratchet back there and take the bracket out all together. Question - the fan was really a PITA (I mean major PITA) to get back into the engine bay. I have an 07 335i w/ out the oil cooler. I am thinking about a performance “slim line fan” like the ones made by Mishimoto. What was your take on getting the engine fan back into the engine bay ?
Hey thanks for the feedback, good to know that if you want to tackle the valve cover at the same time that it'll give you some more working room. It can be finicky to get the fan back in without popping the upper radiator hose off but if you take your time you should be able to slot it in.
It looks like you have the BMS cowl filters? How do you like them? I'm really considering them as I'm tired of having to take that cowl off ebery time I work on the car lol. I know they say rain won't get in ther but it still worries me. Here in Tennessee over the past month or so we've had na TON of rain, there's flooding everywhere, and I think about if I would have had those filters on during that period, would it have all stayed dry in there?
Hi, excellent video. Today arrived my MMP inlets to my 2007 n54. The connection to the turbos is 2” because I am thinking about upgrade my turbos. The front side was easy yo install without any problem but the back side there is no way to pass it between the firewall and the head valve. I put a lot of Vaseline but the 90 degree elbow is no way to pass it. Did you used it a 1 3/4 " or 2" inlets ? I could not do it anymore tomorrow I'll try again. Please what do you recommend me? Thanks in advance. PD. Sorry about my English does not my native language.
Going to be installing MMP silicone inlets in a week plus new 034 motor mounts. I figured while I was in there, the motor mounts would be more accessible. My question is I wonder if you have had a problem with the rear inlet popping off like some have complained about in the forums. If not, what do you think has contributed to your success of your rear inlet not popping off? I’m going to use silicone grease instead of dish soap to use as a lube for the rear inlet. I am worried the dish soap will cook on the rear inlet once the engine heats up. The twin turbos make the engine so hot. I also found a hand tool that has a 10” hacksaw blade in the handle at ACE hardware. It sort of looks like a knife with a round, rubber handle. I also found a small, flat ratcheting type wrench that you can insert specific bits in, on Amazon. I’m gonna use this to get the two bolts off the rear oem inlet. Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch DriveNeiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver.
Hey good luck on the install. Hmm thus far I haven't had the rear inlet pop off, I cleaned the surface of the turbo snout and cranked down on the clamp pretty good. i would say a big part of it is how you lay the rear inlet behind the motor. You want to keep it in as neutral of a position as possible and also on the other end where the air filter goes make sure that it's not being weight down but the filter etc.
Vehicular DIY did you have to sand down the corner of the head in order to avoid the inlet being snagged on the corner in ripping as a result? When inserting the rear inlet behind the engine, did you follow the oem path on an angle ?
Matthew Weisdorfer it’s clamp seating issue most the time. This unseating can happen w/ several inlets/outlets.. causes include the plastic connector failing re: the inlets and stripped clamp bolts failing re: the outlets
@@lassepedersen3801 I'm about to install a set myself, and I plan on using the stock airbox as I've seen data that shows it flows better than open cone filters.... VRSF says theirs works with DCI or stock box.
Vehicular DIY I was referring to the pcv heater. I think I'm just going to ditch mine though. Is it possible to pm via youtube mobile? I was hoping I could send you a pm... About something injector related.
geo745don if you install your downpipes right and dont damage the front and rear o2 sensors you shouldn’t get a check engine light and if your car is tuned you should just get shadow codes but once your engine heats up they should go away
Can I just say - I’ve watched a gazillion of your videos. I’ve always been like - “Damn this dude never gets pissed and he is always patient AF..”. Then - of all things - that shitty orange tube light from Harbor Freight finally gets you to crack. I have that light and I hate that light!
Do your 1.75s fit the stock turbos perfectly or did you fit manage to squeeze them onto a pair of upgraded turbos? What's your take on it after the install! Thanks in advance!
@@TheSundaeDrive no problem. mine's currently unbolted as well for turbo replacement. however, iv disconnected it from the subframe many times with no issues.
I assume this would sit back if you were using stock intake filter box... I'm wondering how its been with stop and go? Have you noticed any issues in the last 4 months driving?
I'd say ensure that the surface is clean and that the inlet is oriented in such a way that it's not under any strain. How did you notice when it popped off?
The sound from the BOV will change drastically to way "not cool" one hehe. This is the easiest way to notice it without going there for inspection. Car still pulls hard and get boost target errors from time to time. So mainly the errors + BOV sound. Will try to clean it, oriented in better way and maybe spray a little bit of hair spray hehe :)
At 9:40, can you actually use zip ties in the engine bay when it gets that hot? I don't have any zip ties in my engine bay, just asking because you said it. LOL
Where do you get your tools for working on the car And how much would you say it would cost to buy all of the tools required to do all of the maintenance and preventive maintenance?
Kyle Gillam don't buy cheap tools they'll make working on your car a nightmare and will slip and strip things. I have a full snap on set, and a Matco set, but I also used to be a ase master tech. Spend on a good set of tools. You'll definitely need a lot of etorx sockets, universal joints, thin ratchets and thin ratcheting wrenches, a torque wrench, screw drivers w hardened ends, high quality pliers, an impact gun both 3/8 and 1/2 drive, solid impact and normal extensions, a decent jack and hack stands, a dead blow mallet, hardened picks, pry bar set, a manual, high quality flashlight, magnetic retriever, and a really good full set of sockets ranging from 6mm to 22mm in their respective drives from 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive. Don't skimp on the sockets because it's a headache when you strip stuff in tight places. Your tools will be your first large expense. Don't forget about the air compressor either. Depending on on brand stuff you get, you're looking at least 1k for everything. Better tools will cost way more. My tools set and tool box is more than $ 30k
I will never do this job again! Nothing easy about it! Not even hard, just extremely hard lol! I’m still trying to make that elbow sit on the turbo for the rear inlet!
Hey Vehicular DIY after installing the inlets did you get a (30ff turbocharger, charge-air pressure too low) code? I'm getting that code and got the message on the idrive (engine operating at reduced power) got any suggestions as to what the problem could be? Appreciate the help
I had a similar problem. Where you using paper shop towels to cover your air pipes? You may want to buy a small flex camera and look into your turbo inlets. Make sure no paper is in there. That happened to me and just fished it out
john smith I think maybe some shavings from cutting the back inlet off damaged or burned onto the turbine wheel or compressor wheel or something? Now I got white smoke out of exhaust and a strange rotten egg/burning plastic smell along with rough start and misfires sometimes on cylinders 1,2 and sometimes on 5 and 6?
Not much room in there, that's why BMW designed the flatter charge pipe, I'll stick with that I think. Still am looking to upgrade the shorter charge pipe section aluminium though.
GREAT job in being patient during the very difficult parts, but the LIGHT comment made me laugh. Great job!
stupid ass light :D :D
To anyone watching this, the clips held by T30s on the back are VERY easy to snap. Highly recommend just breaking them if you can't get them off. Saved me a lot of time.
Think i snapped mine putting the intake manifold in.
I snapped mine doing intake too bro lol
26:04 LOL. Ha ha!! Finally dude you showed a bit of frustration while doing these incredibly frustrating jobs. LOL. I'm not laughing at you I'm laughing WITH YOU! LOL. I'm so glad you are showing your human side as I was beginning to think you were almost perfect or non emotional as you always seem so calm and collected and never seem to get mad while doing the work. Awesome Job as always! Thank you for doing these very hard to do and hard work jobs while videoing them. I know it's not easy at all to do them both at the same time and takes at least twice as long for any job to get done! Oh and thanks for the one and only swear word I think I've ever heard you say. I'm extremely impressed with your incredible self control!
Told myself “this is not bad i can do it myself” while you were doing the front inlet. Once you started the back, I decided I will take it to a shop
Thats how I am feeling right now. I know I can do it but do i want to deal with it? How much do you think a shop will charge?
I have been looking for a good diy on this. You sir confirmed my suspicions that this isn't as bad as people are making it seem
Wish this was out when i did my install it took me much longer. Great job keep it up!
Only detailed & in-depth video on this that I could find, THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was told this was an at home DIY but I am not as patient as you. Great job
I always know your videos when I hear the word "actual" every 30 seconds. Lol love your content! Good work!! but demonstrated how I don't want to actually do this job on my back in my driveway.
honestly seems a lot easier than how ive seen most do it on here, makes me feel a lot better about doing this! especially since i was just working down in that area doing my downpipes haha
its frustrating how easy you make this look. lol back to it tomorrow thank you for all your videos
right hand drive, i'm getting 1 bolt off per day and stuck on the downpipe v bands. cant really reach it with the steering rack pushed forward
Such an excellent job of videoing this job! Thank you! I wish someone would do a full video of doing the XI version of this job. There's almost nothing and what there is is not even close to good. Thanks again.
only difference is that you need to pull the front axles to work under.
Great work.Ordered some yesterday for 135i.Will help alot.Thanks.
R D. Got mines today I’ll be tackling this job on my own and save 350$
Excellent DIY video, very helpful!
Perfect video man. Gonna be giving this a shot tomorrow
Great DIY! Thanks for posting.
Great video man. On the stock diverter valve connections they may assume you have an after marker charge pipe which usually comes with clamps and caps for those holes. Not that assuming is the right thing to do.
thanks for another great guide! wish i would have done this when i installed my downpipes, oof
For the t30 screws on the rear inlet if you break them lose with the locking pliers method you can use a 4mm Allen wrench to take them the rest of the way off
Great video 👍🏽👍🏽 can’t wait to see result if it’s worth it I’m gonna do mines too
When the light gets in your way.....I’m dying laughing 😂😂😂😂
Great video. I’m ordering mine today.
If you haven’t done high performance coil packs, you should. It made a big difference on mine after I did my carbon cleaning. And FTP charge pipe along with VRSF down pipes.
Thanks, nice I'll look into them.
The the coils packs made my car start misfiring
Didn’t know penguinzo had a car channel good work bro
I'm building an N54 right now....this is 100% making want to fit the inlets BEFORE the engine gets installed. Thank you.
kneecaps2000 I’m swapping my n54 due to a spun bearing/engine knock and I’m trying to figure out everything I should do while the motor is out. I’m all stock, & I have an Xdrive so definitely thinking down pipes, & inlets.
@@Pablo_Built what happened with the bearings? Rod or main? Stock internals?
kneecaps2000 my guess is probably rod, stock internals. Probably due to oil starvation. I just bought the car drove it about 5 times and the final time I drove it really hard. It started knocking 5 mins from my house. When I got to park I Checked the oil filter and there was a bunch of gold glitter in there and with heavy smell of gasoline. So that’s probably from leaking injectors is what everyone who’s experienced this has stated on the forums. Smh & It had the new index 12 injectors installed back in 2010 so idk how that could’ve happened.
@@Pablo_Built even the "fixed" injectors don't last forever. Sounds like a rod bearing. They do seem to wear faster than normal on N54.
kneecaps2000 yeah sadly. It’s gonna be big job to swap. Especially on xdrive. Debating if should get new injectors or just change the seals on them for the donor motor
Im doing mines as im watching this video under my car. Super helpful.
Im stuck on the rear one.DOES NOT want to go in the turbo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@4037joel same man! What did you do to get it in?
@@RadioactiveTurtle88 took it out again and lubed tf outta the bottom elbow part. And pushed it in. Make sure you put the top part of the inlet in the top part of the turbo. Not the bottom side. This also helped me alot i was doing the bottom side
@@4037joel thanks! I'm going to try it, Im still having trouble putting the sh** in. But what do you mean the bottom and top side if the inlet? You mean you had the sides
confused?
Awesome video!!! I look forward to getting inlets and outlets!
Thanks! I wanted to start with inlets, not sure how much outlets would help with stock turbos?
Vehicular DIY that's what I've been reading as well. I hope to one day go RB turbo. So I figured I might as well get them done. I will probably hold off if the install is too difficult though. Thanks for the reply!
Hey guys, I recommend using white LED rope light and a good (Coast) headlight. Observing the constant adjusting of that light wand has raised my anxiety and blood pressure level.
Great video bro thanks 👏
Would this be easier to do while replacing the water pump and thermostat?
Thanks for the video
great content
What did you use to keep your CEL off with those catless Down Pipes for the secondary sensors?
Awesome diy
I wonder if the front inlet will be pulled closer to the pulleys with a stock location type intake/air box? If that’s the case I might make some sort of bracket to hold it away from the pulleys...
21:55 I agree 100%. I may not be the best mechanic but at least I care.
You are awesome my friend
Hello, Thanks for reply. You know what? I cut two pieces of plastic about 14”L x 8” H them in each side I put a lot of vaseline. After that one piece was located in front to the firewall and the other one in front to the engine block cover up to top of head valve. Then I passed the inlet between the two plastic goes all the way down without problem. I had to remove the hook that keeps in place the oem inlets to add more room. Underneath between the firewall and the transmission that corner was bend it with a piece of wood. Connect the clamp, downpipes, steering rack and DCI. That’s it! but your video help me a lot! Thanks for share. Next DIY LPFP Stage 2 assembly. 👍🏻
Thanks for the feedback and glad the video helped!
cool work
how much power you get from performance inlets and outlets for n54?
I wonder if you could cut up the original front tube to make a guard (that bolts to the original mounts) that the new tube sits on.
Not a bad idea! Except one of the bolts that holds that intake pipe is stripped for me, so i had to cut it out. No room to drill and use a screw extractor or anything.
yes you can. many people do this in the facebook groups
Hi, what did you end up doing to connect the pcv valve pipe to the new rear silicone inlet? Was there enough to insert and get a clip around it..
Hey man , got a question for you please, whenever you install the inlets, did you remove the front turbo compressor hosing inlet rubber adapter ? If not do you think the mom 2 inch inlet would fit over it ? Also did the rear hosing has a adapter also ? Thanks
I'm curious why you didn't relocated the excess coolant tank and vacuum canisters, then just put the DCI's on the left side? It's straighter, shorter and increases power. It also increases the room in front of your pulley's since you wouldn't have that large tube running in front of them. I'm also wondering why your blowoff valves are on the inlets instead of the charge pipe????
How tight did you torque the bell housing bolts? Was yours aluminun??
Do I need to also buy upgraded hoses for intercooler? ARM sells it for $100
Do you thiunk that in e82 there can be less space for the rear inlet pipe? It seems to be touching the wall after I installed it...(i got MMP stock location inlets)
Nice DIY. Hurry up with the next vid lol, waiting to see if all of that hassle was worth at least 15whp or so.
That's coming probably tomorrow, my butt dyno may need calibration but it feels like it picked up a ton of torque.
To anyone reading this, if upgrading the twins, is it better to go with relocated or oem location? Thanks!
Where do you buy these DV adapters (the one you wrap with green tape at 13:31)? I bought some inlets from Amazon and doesn't come with any kind of adapters. Thanks in advance.
Hi,
I’m doing a bunch of the bolt on upgrades all at once…VRSF 7.5 FMIC, cold and hot side charge pipes, charge pipe with TiAL BOV, cold air intake, turbo outlet pipe, and both front and rear turbo inlet pipes, and of course, down pipes.
I’m also upgrading the valve cover to aluminum (had a gasket leak so might as well), index 12 injectors, high performance coil packs, 2 step colder plugs, a JB4 tune, and walnut blasting the cold side of the intake valves.
My question is regarding the rear turbo inlet pipe removal and install of the new one, mostly because it seems to be becoming a real pain in the ass, in my situation, having to remove the valve cover and intake manifold to do the other parts of the job, would it be easier to take them off prior to trying to remove the stock plastic rear inlet pipe? It’s rigid plastic and doesn’t seem to have clearance. Would this avoid the need to cut it or lower the motor to get it out whole? And second, what is a solution to the flat bracket that holds the lower part of that pipe? It certainly looks like it will be in the way of the new silicone pipe. I haven’t been able to figure out a way to get at the bolt that holds it on, and it seems like it would be very precarious to try to cut it out, and I don’t see a way to move it out of the way?
Thanks in advance for any productive insight!
Hey ! Do you think there is more room for the back inlets on E60 535xi ? or pretty much the same work.
Zip tie baby!! 👍good job!
Haha zip ties ftw. Thanks! They kick ass, I'm going to post my update video soon.
Vehicular DIY Hell yes can't wait lookin into doing the same thing! Where's the link to mmp?
How does this help in performance ? What are the performance gains ?
What was the plastic piece you put in the diverter valve?
Hey man, I am going to attempt this. Quick question, how is the OEM plastic inlets mounted to the turbo snout? Is there a clamp or band?
Mango Productions ram and cram
Great Job and explanation. I have a question, is it true that you get some Turbo Lag when you install the Modified (larger diameter) Inlet, Charge Pipe and the DCI ? I have a BMW 1M and I'm interested to do the same setup you did but I still want to keep the car as stock as possible. I like the characteristics of the car. If I change all these parts and also change a downpipe and a sport exhaust and the finally add a Tune . I'm sure the gain in power will be a lot, but will the car be as much fun as a stock???
The only way you'd get more lag is with a bigger intercooler, in theory, frankly the stock one is pretty restrictive so you would mostly feel the benefits of having denser air. The chargepipe upgrade is a must since stock charge pipe can handle stock boost, any more than that and yours might go (mine did). Having downpipes will ease the turbo and it'll spool faster, having inlets to the turbos will allow turbos to suck in more air quicker so again, better spool time, the cai won't do anything on this car. So will it be as much fun as stock? no, because it will be more fun. JB4 FBO is easy 400 to the wheels, conservatively.
Nice Job Dude! Great Videos! I started using Virtual Dyno after watching your setup. Searching for a cheap upgraded Intercooler for my 2009 535xi. Also, are you using xHP for the Trans Tune? You should look into it if you are not. It is great! Stage 2 for the 535 is just Mint!!
Thanks! No I'm on an Alpina tune but I've heard great things about the xHP trans tunes.
"Cheap intercoolers" are their own reward.
Question...I know u have basically all the mods.. Did u get surging after inlet install...or turbo oscillating...
Love your 336i diy. Your very knowledgeabLe and very detailed. Quick question.... I want to do inlets but not sure which type would give me the most power. Relocation or stock location? Do people go with relocation because of easier install? ... your input would be help me greatly since I really hold your knowledge in high regards
At 34:45 how did you connect the blow off valve to the inlet. I’m trying to figure it out and I cant
Hey, I know I'm late to the video lol. What did you end up doing for the bell housing bolts? Did you just keep them hand tight or is their a certain spec they need to be torque'd to? This is the only question I have after watching the video through and through, awesome video, thank you!
I ended up leaving the bracket on as the inlet did not even touch for me (RBTurbo Inlets). I cranked em down just to be sure.
Use a zip tie for the pcv hose on the back of the valve cover
How did you slide the rear inlet down so easily!? I thought it would be easy lmao, maybe I didn’t put enough Vaseline. I spent 3-4 hours trying to get the rear inlet into position. So hard to make it budge. Basically stuck 6 inches from the turbo
Just put in the MMP inlets. I was able to get the metal bracket, on the backside of the engine, off the car. It’s held in by one t-30 torx screw. I was sort of simultaneously doing the valve cover gasket and engine & trans mounts. Since the cats were out of the car, it makes it really, really easy to get the passenger side mount out. At any rate, because the valve cover was off, I was able to slide the special, mini-drill bit ratchet back there and take the bracket out all together.
Question - the fan was really a PITA (I mean major PITA) to get back into the engine bay. I have an 07 335i w/ out the oil cooler. I am thinking about a performance “slim line fan” like the ones made by Mishimoto. What was your take on getting the engine fan back into the engine bay ?
Hey thanks for the feedback, good to know that if you want to tackle the valve cover at the same time that it'll give you some more working room.
It can be finicky to get the fan back in without popping the upper radiator hose off but if you take your time you should be able to slot it in.
It looks like you have the BMS cowl filters? How do you like them? I'm really considering them as I'm tired of having to take that cowl off ebery time I work on the car lol. I know they say rain won't get in ther but it still worries me. Here in Tennessee over the past month or so we've had na TON of rain, there's flooding everywhere, and I think about if I would have had those filters on during that period, would it have all stayed dry in there?
Get them worth the time and money i live in Florida where its bipolar asf currently raining actually 🙄
Hi, excellent video. Today arrived my MMP inlets to my 2007 n54. The connection to the turbos is 2” because I am thinking about upgrade my turbos. The front side was easy yo install without any problem but the back side there is no way to pass it between the firewall and the head valve. I put a lot of Vaseline but the 90 degree elbow is no way to pass it. Did you used it a 1 3/4 " or 2" inlets ? I could not do it anymore tomorrow I'll try again. Please what do you recommend me? Thanks in advance.
PD. Sorry about my English does not my native language.
Hey sorry for the late response, I went with stock size 1.75"
Nice! And it only took 46 minutes to complete.
minus the edited curses..
Is there a certain method you used to disconnect the OEM diverter valve connector from the hose? Can't get those things of for the life of me.
You have to rotate then pull. Lol. One clockwise. The other counter
Going to be installing MMP silicone inlets in a week plus new 034 motor mounts. I figured while I was in there, the motor mounts would be more accessible.
My question is I wonder if you have had a problem with the rear inlet popping off like some have complained about in the forums. If not, what do you think has contributed to your success of your rear inlet not popping off?
I’m going to use silicone grease instead of dish soap to use as a lube for the rear inlet. I am worried the dish soap will cook on the rear inlet once the engine heats up. The twin turbos make the engine so hot.
I also found a hand tool that has a 10” hacksaw blade in the handle at ACE hardware. It sort of looks like a knife with a round, rubber handle. I also found a small, flat ratcheting type wrench that you can insert specific bits in, on Amazon. I’m gonna use this to get the two bolts off the rear oem inlet.
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch DriveNeiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver.
Hey good luck on the install. Hmm thus far I haven't had the rear inlet pop off, I cleaned the surface of the turbo snout and cranked down on the clamp pretty good. i would say a big part of it is how you lay the rear inlet behind the motor. You want to keep it in as neutral of a position as possible and also on the other end where the air filter goes make sure that it's not being weight down but the filter etc.
Vehicular DIY did you have to sand down the corner of the head in order to avoid the inlet being snagged on the corner in ripping as a result? When inserting the rear inlet behind the engine, did you follow the oem path on an angle ?
Matthew Weisdorfer it’s clamp seating issue most the time. This unseating can happen w/ several inlets/outlets.. causes include the plastic connector failing re: the inlets and stripped clamp bolts failing re: the outlets
Use KY jelly. Really slippery with no residue.
Hey bud great video, there are a few inlets out there which ones you recommend? And links to the one you bought?
Thanks, I only have experience with the MMPs that I show here. For the money I'm happy with them. You can grab them here: mmp-e.com/
what panels did you remove to get access to the turbos, i have a right hand drive and it seems like there is no space at all ?
Hah yup because theres not
so the inlets are for the intakes?
Can you use your stock air box with inlets? Or do you have to use dci. It so hot under the hood and the hot Florida weather does not help. Thanks.
Would like to know that aswell for MOT reasons here in DK, they do not allow open airfilters
@@lassepedersen3801 I'm about to install a set myself, and I plan on using the stock airbox as I've seen data that shows it flows better than open cone filters.... VRSF says theirs works with DCI or stock box.
@@Turbo2Pete OK thanks, i bought the 2" inlets from vargas, i'm guessing that will require a clamp.
your iat effects will be minimal from intake to intake. It is 99% correlated to your intercooler.
Thanks again for another great video. what did you end up doing with the rear inlet sensor and wire?
soundmasterx Which sensor are you referring to?
Vehicular DIY I was referring to the pcv heater. I think I'm just going to ditch mine though. Is it possible to pm via youtube mobile? I was hoping I could send you a pm... About something injector related.
Was it worth the trouble and money? Could you tell a big difference?
Does this equals to downpipe on power, I dont want downpipe because.of smell.and check engine light
geo745don if you install your downpipes right and dont damage the front and rear o2 sensors you shouldn’t get a check engine light and if your car is tuned you should just get shadow codes but once your engine heats up they should go away
Does this help performance at all on stock turbos?
I have a pre LCI 335i but am unsure whether I need 1.75 or 2inch, if someone could let me know which one I need I’d be very appreciative!
If you're on stock turbos then 1.75 is what you're looking for. 2.0 is for upgraded twins.
Can I just say - I’ve watched a gazillion of your videos. I’ve always been like - “Damn this dude never gets pissed and he is always patient AF..”. Then - of all things - that shitty orange tube light from Harbor Freight finally gets you to crack. I have that light and I hate that light!
Thanks for the video, I will be doing my inlets , I wanted to know what size inlets are those, I wanted to go with the 2.0, instead of the 1.75
Which ones did you get, I’m looking for a set too , probably getting 1.75 since I don’t think I’ll get bigger turbo
@@reyperez3424 1.75 , was prefect
Do your 1.75s fit the stock turbos perfectly or did you fit manage to squeeze them onto a pair of upgraded turbos? What's your take on it after the install! Thanks in advance!
Is the other name for this product a Down Pipe ?
do you need to get the "0" position of the steering wheel reprogrammed after removing the steering rack?
nope!
@@davidguirguis9273 thanks!
@@TheSundaeDrive no problem. mine's currently unbolted as well for turbo replacement. however, iv disconnected it from the subframe many times with no issues.
MMP asks what the turbo connection size is when ordering. 1.75" or2"
i have a '08 335xi with stock turbos.. so what size would i be looking at?
thanks
1.75" for stock Turbos.
@@VehicularDIY If I were by your side, I would have saved the original manifold in at least ten minutes
Great vid. Where did you get the hose to hook the DVs to the charge pipe?
Comes stock, alredy on the car. Do not need to buy new hoses
@@carterlynn9707 no they don’t.
I assume this would sit back if you were using stock intake filter box... I'm wondering how its been with stop and go? Have you noticed any issues in the last 4 months driving?
Hey you could use it with a stock air box if needed. So far no issues.
Nice video! Can you give some hints to prevent rear inlets from slipping off? Happen to me 2 times already :/
I'd say ensure that the surface is clean and that the inlet is oriented in such a way that it's not under any strain. How did you notice when it popped off?
The sound from the BOV will change drastically to way "not cool" one hehe. This is the easiest way to notice it without going there for inspection. Car still pulls hard and get boost target errors from time to time. So mainly the errors + BOV sound. Will try to clean it, oriented in better way and maybe spray a little bit of hair spray hehe :)
Will these need a tune
At 9:40, can you actually use zip ties in the engine bay when it gets that hot? I don't have any zip ties in my engine bay, just asking because you said it. LOL
Bryan Chance u can use metal zipties bug they do have strong plastic ones
if you were in the middle of a clutch job and the transmission is fully removed would you beable to install rear inlet without removing downpipe
also how long could you expect to do the front inlet, and how long did it take you just for the front.
You'd likely remove the downpipe to be able to drop the transmission already but I'd say no you'd need to remove them.
Front is easier, probably 1 hour.
Where do you get your tools for working on the car And how much would you say it would cost to buy all of the tools required to do all of the maintenance and preventive maintenance?
Kyle Gillam don't buy cheap tools they'll make working on your car a nightmare and will slip and strip things. I have a full snap on set, and a Matco set, but I also used to be a ase master tech. Spend on a good set of tools. You'll definitely need a lot of etorx sockets, universal joints, thin ratchets and thin ratcheting wrenches, a torque wrench, screw drivers w hardened ends, high quality pliers, an impact gun both 3/8 and 1/2 drive, solid impact and normal extensions, a decent jack and hack stands, a dead blow mallet, hardened picks, pry bar set, a manual, high quality flashlight, magnetic retriever, and a really good full set of sockets ranging from 6mm to 22mm in their respective drives from 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" drive. Don't skimp on the sockets because it's a headache when you strip stuff in tight places. Your tools will be your first large expense. Don't forget about the air compressor either. Depending on on brand stuff you get, you're looking at least 1k for everything. Better tools will cost way more. My tools set and tool box is more than $ 30k
@@lonewolf3564 lol. You just wanted to flex your tools. Harbor freight gets it done
So you still have the mmp inlets?
Are you going to do MMP outlets ? It looks much easier than inlets and you might pick up another 20hp???
Matthew Weisdorfer outlets are not necessary u won’t gain power inlets is wat u need unless you’re getting new upgraded turbos
@@zanmasterr do Vargas stage 1 turbos count?
Have you had any issues with the rear inlet popping off? just curious.
So far so good, that hasn't happened.
What drew you to MMP vs other brands of inlets ?
I went with MMP due to the price and the company was local so I could just go and pick them up.
I will never do this job again! Nothing easy about it! Not even hard, just extremely hard lol! I’m still trying to make that elbow sit on the turbo for the rear inlet!
how come you went driverside inlets instead of relocated ones?
I figured it was easier than relocating the coolant resevoir.
Hello, Where did you find the little part at 13:31 ?
That came with the inlets.
What are those two metal lines that connect to your oil filter housing in the front?
They go to the oil cooler.
Vehicular DIY is that aftermarket then?
@@davidrowe2217 Standard from 2008 on but only on 2007 with particular options before then.
Hey Vehicular DIY after installing the inlets did you get a (30ff turbocharger, charge-air pressure too low) code? I'm getting that code and got the message on the idrive (engine operating at reduced power) got any suggestions as to what the problem could be? Appreciate the help
I did not, you would want to check vacuum lines and the charge pipes etc to ensure they're sealing well.
I had a similar problem. Where you using paper shop towels to cover your air pipes?
You may want to buy a small flex camera and look into your turbo inlets. Make sure no paper is in there. That happened to me and just fished it out
john smith I think maybe some shavings from cutting the back inlet off damaged or burned onto the turbine wheel or compressor wheel or something? Now I got white smoke out of exhaust and a strange rotten egg/burning plastic smell along with rough start and misfires sometimes on cylinders 1,2 and sometimes on 5 and 6?
KevinBeGood 😯sounds like turbo is beginning to fail.
john smith Shit. 😣
Not much room in there, that's why BMW designed the flatter charge pipe, I'll stick with that I think. Still am looking to upgrade the shorter charge pipe section aluminium though.
They are called inlets not charge pipes lol