Thanks for that, I have done concrete work for 46 years and am doing my own first time grind and polish on my own floor with rental equipment. It is quit the time consuming process, thanks for showing that for all to see. Great Job, nice to see.
😳 DIY my a** this video shows how much hard work and equipment goes into these projects. Once you mentioned 3 phase generator my jaw dropped. Thanks for your knowledge, time and effort. Wow
You could do it with a regular angle grinder.. it'd just take an eternity.. takes about an hour per 100 sq/ft to do the grinding passes and then it speeds up a little bit with the polishing.. probably 8-12 hours to do 100 sq/ft with an angle grinder.
awesome if you want it done right i mean perfect . This is the only video to watch. I have been building homes for fourty plus years, and this by far was the most complete presontation for the 9 step grind, and stain concrete slab ive ever seen. great job. If you guys do anything else i would watch it. thanks again for your time !
I think you did a magnificent job. I am in the same bis and it’s great to show the potential customers how much work goes into doing these floors . Especially when they complain about the cost!
Thank you so much for mentioning that. Most people think polishing means you just put wax on the floor and run a buffer over it and you’re done. It is so much more work than that, at least to do it the right way.
I love these videos I wish I would’ve watched them before I started angle grinding my entire basement I’m kind of disappointing so no matter what I’m never going to get the same type of a finish that I would get from a walk behind grinding machine. Is there something else I can put on an angle grinder To get a better grind I have a grind it a very large area it’s taken me about three weeks & 8 grinding wheels. I actually said to my wife today those circular marks are gonna look really cool when we put the stain down. COME ON MAN!!!! I know human being was meant to angle grinder this much. Oh absolutely learned so much & I love these videos Clearly have no freaking clue what I am doing but I still love your videos let me rephrase that I know a little bit now and the circle marks are gonna look cool. I should put that on a tee-shirt.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge~ I'm considering doing a diy version of this in my basement by renting tools from home depot. Their grinder looks pretty unimpressive compared to yours but maybe it will do. I'm thinking i'll also rent their hand held grinder for the edging and then a concrete floor polisher for the last step... wish me luck. Thanks again!!
Wow that was awesome!! You certainly have some gear, I was thinking in doing my entire house. Somehow think that won't happen now.. out of interest how long did that take? All the best from Australia
Awesome job as always. You said you were bringing it to a 1500 polish. Was the last step burnish with a 1500 grit DIP? Thanks. I have followed your steps to a T on my first stain and Polish. My only step left is to seal and burnish. The results have been excellent. Thank you for the in-depth video!
We use a Hilti DG-150, I love that the shroud is easily adjustable. Expensive, but well worth it. Check out our store, concretefloorsolutions.com/online-store/ we can offer contractor discounts as well as valuable instructions on working with epoxies etc. email me @ jason@concretefloorsolutions.com if interested.
Servus dear colleague, I once wrote to you about the racatac. Unfortunately, this is not available in Europe all year round. Can you help me where I can get a racatac? Thanks in advance
I just wish I knew about concrete polishing before we bought this house.. would've done the whole house before moving in but now we'd have to basically move out temporarily to do it, so it will probably never happen
when we burnish the floor we run forward first time and the run across the second one {hashtag} backwards and you wont leave burnisher tire marks ,just my two cents, great job !
Thank you for this great demo! The best video I've seen so far. A couple of questions: What kind of hardener & penetrating guard are you using? If I want a higher wet coefficient of around .7 how would I modify this process? If I skip the burnishing (not really interested in too much shine) will this add to the non-slip quality?
We use Sase Densifier and Sase Guard. If you apply guard, you are supposed to burnish it. I would try finishing to 200 grit if you are looking for a low sheen floor. Guard is optional, but recommended for stain protection. .7 is a pretty high coefficient, but that should get you close.
I notice there are lines after the burnish, Are those removed some how or just left? Love your videos by the way! I do chip floors and metallics, but would like to learn about polishing also.
Doug Kooistra They are just Dusty tire prints from the burnisher, they wipe right off. Sometimes you do get a pattern from the burnisher also, but that wears off over time.
One way to minimise the lines from the burnisher is to run forward and then go backwards over the same area, the lines tend to be dust from the guard as it gets burnished which the tires run over leaving lines. Going backwards you are running the pad over the tire tracks.
Hello I just subscribed to your channel I love your work I own a concrete stain and company in epoxy and I do polishing at times what kind of joint filler do you use in what is do you buy that set up cuz I use a part a part b urethane and it's takes too much time
Thanks for watching, here is a link to our joint filler concretefloorsolutions.com/store/repair-materials/cfs-fast-set-joint-filler-with-static-mixing-tip/
I have a long question but I've been scouring the internet for weeks and I think you're the guy that might be able to give me answer. I'm turning part of my basement into a pottery studio. It's a separate room closed off from everything else and it has a concrete floor. I want to polish it somewhat because it will be easier to clean and it won't trap silica dust from the clay. It's 15x20 feet. It I rented a grinder it will be too expensive because I only have a few hours here and there to work on it so I'd have to rent it for a week or so. WAS THIS A 1 DAY PROJECT FOR YOU? I've considered angle grinding the whole things with a 7 inch but also sounds terrible. I don't need a super glossy polish. Honestly I just want it smooth enough to avoid the floor trapping silica as easily. The floor as it is now is pretty smooth. Maybe it was acid etched? Do you think I might be able to get away with buying a floor polisher for $100-$200 and going at it with a 200 grit or something coarse for a longer time and then stepping it up to 400 and beyond? Or is there any sort of process you can think of that can take a concrete floor to a satin matte with a floor polisher? I'm not afraid of hard work. I always read about hardeners. Do I need that? Thanks so much. I've learned so much from this video.
You can definitely do this project in one day. It would be an all day event, but it is definitely possible. I don't know if you can get one of those things down in a basement unless you have. Patio or something you can bring it to, what I did to my shed was just ground off the top layer with an epoxy wheel (7inch grinder) and threw concrete sealer on it, it's smoothe and sealed up (may be best option for you) although I wish I would have went with the polished concrete instead of sealed, but the blades and machine was just too much for me. I do them from time to time at work (I install epoxy) and they're always good looking and most durable of any floor IMO
Curious how do you determine the hardest of the concrete in order to use the correct diamonds? Is it visual thing, color or do test it? Thank you in advance.
In my experience, water-based stains don't penetrate as well as the acetone-based. That is why we typically don't use them. I'm not saying they don't work, I'm just saying in my experience that's what we have found.
Its called a racatac, we do sell them, but they are on national back order so I don’t have them listed on our site right now. Hopefully by the end of September.
Great job!! Two things: Where can I get one of those seats that you used for the edges? I do asbestos abatement. Also do you work in Maryland? Andre Downey - 240-508-9323
Its made by racatac, there are a couple different configurations. I know amazon has them, you may want to check around for pricing. Yes, we do work in Maryland if the size of the job justifies it.
How much grinding would a person need to do to just get a matte finish after staining and sealing? I'm not looking for a glossy, marble like result. I'd like to do this myself. Is this realistic without days of grinding multiple grits? I just want to smooth the cracks and let it look more natural and rustic.
I would say you need to grind to 200 grit to achieve a matte finish. The question really is, what type of equipment are you going to be using. If you’re not using the right equipment, you are just going to waste a lot of time. Email me directly and maybe I can point you in the right direction at least. jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
I'm fairly new to this trade but i find some of the steps in this process to be odd based on what i've learned. Why do you apply densifier after 400s and why do you burnish with a 1500 grit pad and not a 3k or higher? We always apply densifier after 200s , apply a penetrating sealer after 800s then burnish with a 3k or higher grit pad.
When applying stain to very hard concrete, you should NOT apply the densifier before the stain or it will not penetrate very well into the concrete. We typically apply densifier after the 150 grit grind if you are NOT staining the concrete. Stain changes the process. The 1500 grit finish is what the job was specified at. We can go higher grit when burnishing but it adds to the cost and cost is normally a factor with customers so we polished to 1,500 grit.
Yes i do, typically after stain, unless the concrete is very soft, then do it before. concretefloorsolutions.com/store/surface-treatments/cfs-concrete-densifier/
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thanks. Looks like auto correct got me. Was supposed to say hardener/denisfier. Looks like you understood my question. Thank you for the immediate response!
www.toolup.com/DeWalt-DCE591D1-20V-Epoxy-Dispenser-11-21Oz?CATARGETID=120204890000550310&CADevice=c&gclid=Cj0KCQiApY6BBhCsARIsAOI_GjYOk583VbBnXMub3W96EZkcN8WEEvLZtMjoymva-O-e0snalJOUkpIaAoN5EALw_wcB I dont remember where I got it, but I believe this is the same one. check your tube size before ordering. best tool ever if you use allot of dual cartridge materials like we do.
It is, but ultimately it is up to the condition of the concrete you're polishing. Some concrete is very porous and does not give up a mirror finish very easily.
Important question- so we polished a floor and we finished everything but after mopping the floor its as if the whole floor had dust and wouldn’t remove off the concrete floor and we are still trying to fix it because its a fire fighter station so its kind of big and the polished floor is perfect but it seems as if the whole floor has dust that just wont remove. Do you think the dust is under the polish? Or what its the first problem we had since years and we been working in epoxy for 10+ years so this makes no sense
Did you use a wet floor scrubber before you put the guard down? If you don’t have the surface clean enough, the dust will mix with the guard when mopped and get trapped in the floor.
Yes we did we cleaned it to remove all the dust with a dust mop and even passed the burnisher once again because they called us up that they mopped it and once it dried up it turned foggy like of dust but the floor was cleaned very good
Without knowing all the exact details, I couldn’t tell you anymore. I know the guard can get cloudy if it gets wet before it is burnished and cured. Could have been a humidity issue? Could have been a contamination issue? could have been chemical attack? You can always email me direct with product names and details etc. maybe I could shine some light on it.
There's no way I could give you an accurate number, it could be anywhere between three dollars and $15 per square foot depending where you are and repairs needed etc.
I notice you always wear the pants with knee pads. Where do you buy those at? Thanks for the good videos. Have really learned a lot of great material from you.
Thank you for watching, this is what I always wear. I always get the upgraded kneepads also. It is well worth the extra money. facelineinc.com/product/nordic-stretch-toolpants-black/
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thanks for the response. I just started a small epoxy flooring/polishing business and I aspire to get to where you are. I have a small Genie which works great for prepping garages and other small areas, it would just be very time-consuming to do what you did with it.
Our burnisher has a 27” pad so it will not fit in corners. The only way you are going to see a difference is if you can get your eye in the corner on the floor which is impossible. So the answer is NO you cannot see a difference in the corners.
Concrete finishers I spoke with explained that there are wide pads the finishers should wear on their feet when they first get on the floor. Also when they are screeding the concrete they don't want to fill in their foot steps behind the screed with cream but to try keep the mix consistent on the screed as the do that. There is a screen roller, they roll the floor with that after screeding the concrete too. The roller pushes down the rocks and stone to a consistent depth to allow a more consistent look. After bull float, the finishers use a power trowel with a pan and this is when the concrete is still soft and they should wear the pads on their feet to spread the weight otherwise you may see foot step marks after grinding, areas with stone visible and footprint areas where stone is not visible. Some specify certain stone in the concrete mix, if your ginding deep into the stone to get that stone color. Others will cast glass or colorful stone onto the top of the concrete so they grind into that for a different look. There are preferences in the concrete beyond the stone mix too but the concrete plants usually have their own recipe they won't deviate from. I'm in NH, one finisher I spoke with had a preference of Carrol concrete opposed to the concrete coming from a plant named Graves. Some thing with the amount of fly ash in the mix and bleed water it creates. This isn't my profession, just info I learned from family and friends in the business. My floor was already poured we are going to try a salt and pepper grind trying to not go too deep and use black or onyx dye. Here are some links for colors I was provided. Hope yours comes out awesome! www.solomoncolors.com/lythic.php#gsc.tab=0 www.solomoncolors.com/documents/brickform/color-cards/Pro-Dye-Plus-Color-Cards.pdf prosoco.com/products/concrete-flooring/decorative-color/ www.ameripolish.com/getPDF/Ameripolish%20Color%20Chart_Classic%20-%20Surelock%20-%20Dye-N-Seal.pdf
When polishing concrete, yes it is. Every time you grind the floor the dust will fall in the open joints and you will keep pulling dust/sand out and re-scratch the floor after each pass.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions I see, and the filling substance looks soft enough to let the floor move as it is supposed to do. Thought you were going to fill them up with something cement-based.
Many factors go into price. How many square feet, condition of concrete, hardness of concrete, amount of edges, gloss required, stain, cracks, joints, repairs, location of job. That being said, a typical job will be $4.00 - $10.00 per sq.ft. depending on the above.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions cool thanks, I'm debating on doing this in my basement but I'm guessing the rental will be expensive and I would probably have to buy my own Dimond pads. I work at a university and we are going for wax to Dimond but it's a lot different process. Not sure where to begin with my basement.
@@richardparnell8402 trying to rent equipment and do it yourself may be extremely challenging. It can be done, but I really don't know if it is worth the time and aggravation. Sometimes you get lucky and everything goes smoothly, if there are any issues it could simply be a nightmare.
Why did you do only one pass with each diamonds, not cross lines? The amount of densifier you use was not enough in my opinion. You can clearly see that you can not evenly saturate the surface, which means the color was not locked in everywhere. BTW very good job and video.
We do every pass perpendicular to the next, otherwise it would be an 18 pass grind, which would be excessive and cost prohibitive. This concrete was extremely hard so we did not oversaturated with the densifier, we do use a microfiber mop after we spray to knock down the dropplets. On softer concrete we would apply more desifier. The Ameripolish Surelock stain we use holds in the concrete very well.
ig the client didn't want to expose the concrete too much that's why only one pass and he already said that the next grind after the vertical one is perpendicular to it....not to leave a pattern.
I’ve been doing concrete polish / epoxy / staining etc for 6 years and I love watching these videos good job guys
This was so gorgeous, now I want to do my floors! Thank you for your in depth tutoring.
Thanks for that, I have done concrete work for 46 years and am doing my own first time grind and polish on my own floor with rental equipment. It is quit the time consuming process, thanks for showing that for all to see. Great Job, nice to see.
I love the extra effort put into the projects to make sure it’s done right.
Thanks for watching, we appreciate you noticing.
😳 DIY my a** this video shows how much hard work and equipment goes into these projects. Once you mentioned 3 phase generator my jaw dropped. Thanks for your knowledge, time and effort. Wow
They are using a very large grinder. There are smaller ones you can use that run off a 110. Check out the Husqvarna PG450
What was the cost on this job?
You could do it with a regular angle grinder.. it'd just take an eternity.. takes about an hour per 100 sq/ft to do the grinding passes and then it speeds up a little bit with the polishing.. probably 8-12 hours to do 100 sq/ft with an angle grinder.
5 to $7 per SQ foot here
awesome if you want it done right i mean perfect . This is the only video to watch. I have been building homes for fourty plus
years, and this by far was the most complete presontation for the 9 step grind, and stain concrete slab ive ever seen. great job. If you guys do anything else i would watch it. thanks again for your time !
We have a bunch of videos on our channel you can check out. We do a lot of epoxy flooring also
Bloody awesome. Some knowledge here in NZ but great to watch the Pros.
Great video, very helpful, just getting into polished concrete this year
I stopped at here's our generator and here's our trailer.....you guys are meticulous! Love the way you do things....the RIGHT way
It'll show up in the cost
This video is great. Super detailed, super informative. Thank you
Very nice!! Appreciate all the effort you put into videoing this project. I learned a lot!
i don't know diddly squat about concrete polishing. your videos and work is so well put together i just enjoy watching!
I really appreciate hearing that. Thank you for watching.
Great job ! 👍
I think you did a magnificent job. I am in the same bis and it’s great to show the potential customers how much work goes into doing these floors .
Especially when they complain about the cost!
Thank you so much for mentioning that. Most people think polishing means you just put wax on the floor and run a buffer over it and you’re done. It is so much more work than that, at least to do it the right way.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions when it's less than 100 feet. Over that we use our pump.
What would about 500sq feet run?
I would charge an arm and both legs if I did this professionally.
Well done and documented.
thank you for the video. very very helpful.
Wow, quite the process
Shine'n likes ah dye-men!
Ya'll kick ass flip'n those slabs n2 gem stones bro.
Good shit.
Looking great. You can improve clarity by removing swirls with luster pads before you apply the guard.
Very good video and very cool process
Awesome gloss mate....
Beautiful work - amazing job! And now I also know I will not be attempting this myself. Lol
Looks awesome man especially the stain job itself! Sharing this to FB
I love these videos I wish I would’ve watched them before I started angle grinding my entire basement I’m kind of disappointing so no matter what I’m never going to get the same type of a finish that I would get from a walk behind grinding machine. Is there something else I can put on an angle grinder To get a better grind I have a grind it a very large area it’s taken me about three weeks & 8 grinding wheels. I actually said to my wife today those circular marks are gonna look really cool when we put the stain down. COME ON MAN!!!! I know human being was meant to angle grinder this much. Oh absolutely learned so much & I love these videos Clearly have no freaking clue what I am doing but I still love your videos let me rephrase that I know a little bit now and the circle marks are gonna look cool. I should put that on a tee-shirt.
Good thing I'm a visual learner cause of couldn't here 1/2 of what you said. But thank you for the video. It was very informative.
I just bought a Bluetooth mic and starting using it on the metallic floor install. Thank you
great video
I love this
thank you
Thanks for recording this process. Going try doing a concrete floor this week with a stain.
How did your floor turn out?
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions He's still doing it
Amazing! Great job.
Well done
Looks great had no idea it took that much
Great work!
Great video! Thanks for sharing. You don’t by chance anyone in he Atlanta area that does this? Thanks again great and informative!
Thank you for watching. Sorry, I don’t know anyone in your area.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge~ I'm considering doing a diy version of this in my basement by renting tools from home depot. Their grinder looks pretty unimpressive compared to yours but maybe it will do. I'm thinking i'll also rent their hand held grinder for the edging and then a concrete floor polisher for the last step... wish me luck. Thanks again!!
I love those desalt variable speeds. Do you know where you bought that one?
I have in the past but always with sealer on it but can you auto scrub a acetone dyed floor in prep for sealer
You are the best o know fo that's alot work involved
I was going try and polish my new polebarn floor myself but omg looks like alot to it.
hi great video would this technique work on a porfido floor
hi concrete floor solutions did i miss the grouting or do you not grout to fill holes cheers
Wow that was awesome!! You certainly have some gear, I was thinking in doing my entire house. Somehow think that won't happen now.. out of interest how long did that take?
All the best from Australia
Any videos or recommendations????? In the process of cleaning some polished concrete…..
Awesome job as always. You said you were bringing it to a 1500 polish. Was the last step burnish with a 1500 grit DIP? Thanks.
I have followed your steps to a T on my first stain and Polish. My only step left is to seal and burnish. The results have been excellent. Thank you for the in-depth video!
Thank you for watching, yes burnish with a 1500 grit diamond impregnated pad after you apply the guard
I like the look of the exposed aggregate the best. Do you ever take it down to the aggregate on purpose to get that look?
Yes we do, it does require additional grinds and additional cost.
amazing video. We are starting a epoxy company and will one day add polishing so this is some interesting stuff. What hand grinder do you use
We use a Hilti DG-150, I love that the shroud is easily adjustable. Expensive, but well worth it. Check out our store, concretefloorsolutions.com/online-store/
we can offer contractor discounts as well as valuable instructions on working with epoxies etc. email me @ jason@concretefloorsolutions.com if interested.
hi~
Where can I buy the wheelchair that I ride when I grind it? I live in Korea and I'm doing the same things as you. It's a very convenient chair.
Yeah I work for a company Philadelphia doing that never discussed it I never want to do it again in my life
looks great! were you having to vacuum in between passes and before you put stain & guard down?
Our vacuum system normally keeps the floor very clean between grinds, we do vacuum before the stain and guard
Hi great job , quick Question, I noticed after burnishing there was some burnishing lines on the floor , do those lines go away with time?
Thanks
Yes they do
Servus dear colleague, I once wrote to you about the racatac. Unfortunately, this is not available in Europe all year round. Can you help me where I can get a racatac? Thanks in advance
I just wish I knew about concrete polishing before we bought this house.. would've done the whole house before moving in but now we'd have to basically move out temporarily to do it, so it will probably never happen
when we burnish the floor we run forward first time and the run across the second one {hashtag} backwards and you wont leave burnisher tire marks ,just my two cents, great job !
Thanks for the tip.
Thank you for this great demo! The best video I've seen so far.
A couple of questions:
What kind of hardener & penetrating guard are you using?
If I want a higher wet coefficient of around .7 how would I modify this process?
If I skip the burnishing (not really interested in too much shine) will this add to the non-slip quality?
We use Sase Densifier and Sase Guard. If you apply guard, you are supposed to burnish it. I would try finishing to 200 grit if you are looking for a low sheen floor. Guard is optional, but recommended for stain protection. .7 is a pretty high coefficient, but that should get you close.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thank you!
I notice there are lines after the burnish, Are those removed some how or just left? Love your videos by the way! I do chip floors and metallics, but would like to learn about polishing also.
Doug Kooistra They are just Dusty tire prints from the burnisher, they wipe right off. Sometimes you do get a pattern from the burnisher also, but that wears off over time.
One way to minimise the lines from the burnisher is to run forward and then go backwards over the same area, the lines tend to be dust from the guard as it gets burnished which the tires run over leaving lines. Going backwards you are running the pad over the tire tracks.
How much do you charge per square foot? Great work btw!!
I had my concrete floors burnished. But I should of had the floors stained. How can I stain the floors now that it has been burnished?
All that for stain?
Hello I just subscribed to your channel I love your work I own a concrete stain and company in epoxy and I do polishing at times what kind of joint filler do you use in what is do you buy that set up cuz I use a part a part b urethane and it's takes too much time
Thanks for watching, here is a link to our joint filler
concretefloorsolutions.com/store/repair-materials/cfs-fast-set-joint-filler-with-static-mixing-tip/
What does something like this cost per sq ft vs coatings
I have a long question but I've been scouring the internet for weeks and I think you're the guy that might be able to give me answer. I'm turning part of my basement into a pottery studio. It's a separate room closed off from everything else and it has a concrete floor. I want to polish it somewhat because it will be easier to clean and it won't trap silica dust from the clay. It's 15x20 feet.
It I rented a grinder it will be too expensive because I only have a few hours here and there to work on it so I'd have to rent it for a week or so. WAS THIS A 1 DAY PROJECT FOR YOU? I've considered angle grinding the whole things with a 7 inch but also sounds terrible.
I don't need a super glossy polish. Honestly I just want it smooth enough to avoid the floor trapping silica as easily. The floor as it is now is pretty smooth. Maybe it was acid etched? Do you think I might be able to get away with buying a floor polisher for $100-$200 and going at it with a 200 grit or something coarse for a longer time and then stepping it up to 400 and beyond? Or is there any sort of process you can think of that can take a concrete floor to a satin matte with a floor polisher? I'm not afraid of hard work. I always read about hardeners. Do I need that? Thanks so much. I've learned so much from this video.
You can definitely do this project in one day. It would be an all day event, but it is definitely possible. I don't know if you can get one of those things down in a basement unless you have. Patio or something you can bring it to, what I did to my shed was just ground off the top layer with an epoxy wheel (7inch grinder) and threw concrete sealer on it, it's smoothe and sealed up (may be best option for you) although I wish I would have went with the polished concrete instead of sealed, but the blades and machine was just too much for me. I do them from time to time at work (I install epoxy) and they're always good looking and most durable of any floor IMO
What is a a range of cost for a work like this per m2 ?
Was this your first floor?
On a brand new concrete floor can I just spray the densifier on and buff it out?
It definitely will not give you the same results, not recommended, but yes you can. I would make sure it is very clean before you do it.
Curious how do you determine the hardest of the concrete in order to use the correct diamonds? Is it visual thing, color or do test it? Thank you in advance.
They use mohs scale sir to determine it. For hard concrete they soft bond pads and for soft concrete its hard bond
I know this is a channel for your business, would you ever do a video on water-based stain?
In my experience, water-based stains don't penetrate as well as the acetone-based. That is why we typically don't use them. I'm not saying they don't work, I'm just saying in my experience that's what we have found.
Just found your video. What is that stool you use when you do the edge finishing, a back saver. Where can I purchase one? thank you
Its called a racatac, we do sell them, but they are on national back order so I don’t have them listed on our site right now. Hopefully by the end of September.
nice work! what brand is that sprayer? I am looking for something similar I normally use the red chapin pump sprayer but it drips too much
www.green-gorilla.com there is a battery pack air compressor on the side of it so it always stays at the same pressure. Very convenient and cordless
Great job!! Two things: Where can I get one of those seats that you used for the edges? I do asbestos abatement. Also do you work in Maryland? Andre Downey - 240-508-9323
Its made by racatac, there are a couple different configurations. I know amazon has them, you may want to check around for pricing. Yes, we do work in Maryland if the size of the job justifies it.
Hi there, how do you take care of the cutting metal when they glazed over?
Mist water in front of grinder to cool down the diamonds. It may take a. Couple hundred sq ft to open again.
How much grinding would a person need to do to just get a matte finish after staining and sealing? I'm not looking for a glossy, marble like result. I'd like to do this myself. Is this realistic without days of grinding multiple grits? I just want to smooth the cracks and let it look more natural and rustic.
I would say you need to grind to 200 grit to achieve a matte finish. The question really is, what type of equipment are you going to be using. If you’re not using the right equipment, you are just going to waste a lot of time. Email me directly and maybe I can point you in the right direction at least. jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
Dude, where did you get that sprayer and the dolly for it? Great video, by the way.
I believe I got the bucket dolly from Harbor freight, here is a link to where I got the sprayer. The company is green gorilla,
www.green-gorilla.com
can you do this and keep a high wet friction coefficient?
Dry is approx .58 and wet is approx .50
Hi I just wanted to ask I'm starting floor polishing business. Do I need floor shot blaster. Or is better diamond disc grinder thank you
Diamond grinder
Very nice job, only critique, pull the pins on the door and remove
If we go through a doorway we always do, in this case it was just for daylight.
What would that job tun a sf?
Any connections for someone in El Paso???
How does the guard stand up to steam mopping?
Good Question, I would be lying if I gave you an answer though. I never had anyone ask or try it. Let me know if you find out.
I'm fairly new to this trade but i find some of the steps in this process to be odd based on what i've learned. Why do you apply densifier after 400s and why do you burnish with a 1500 grit pad and not a 3k or higher? We always apply densifier after 200s , apply a penetrating sealer after 800s then burnish with a 3k or higher grit pad.
When applying stain to very hard concrete, you should NOT apply the densifier before the stain or it will not penetrate very well into the concrete. We typically apply densifier after the 150 grit grind if you are NOT staining the concrete. Stain changes the process. The 1500 grit finish is what the job was specified at. We can go higher grit when burnishing but it adds to the cost and cost is normally a factor with customers so we polished to 1,500 grit.
VERY NICE WORK but you forgot something square footage like that .........The most important....PRICE
Do you recommend a concrete gardener/densities? If so, before or after the stain? Thanks!
Yes i do, typically after stain, unless the concrete is very soft, then do it before. concretefloorsolutions.com/store/surface-treatments/cfs-concrete-densifier/
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thanks. Looks like auto correct got me. Was supposed to say hardener/denisfier. Looks like you understood my question. Thank you for the immediate response!
Last question…do you have a link for the stain you used?
@@ryangilchrist5319 i do not sell it, it is ameripolish surelok stain
How much did you charge for this?
What kind of stain did you use? Brand?
Ameripolish Surelock Dye mixed with acetone
where did you get that dewalt plural tool?
also, buy the heavy duty joint scraper that us saws sells....they are incredible
www.toolup.com/DeWalt-DCE591D1-20V-Epoxy-Dispenser-11-21Oz?CATARGETID=120204890000550310&CADevice=c&gclid=Cj0KCQiApY6BBhCsARIsAOI_GjYOk583VbBnXMub3W96EZkcN8WEEvLZtMjoymva-O-e0snalJOUkpIaAoN5EALw_wcB
I dont remember where I got it, but I believe this is the same one. check your tube size before ordering. best tool ever if you use allot of dual cartridge materials like we do.
Is it possible to get a mirror finish on polished concrete?
It is, but ultimately it is up to the condition of the concrete you're polishing. Some concrete is very porous and does not give up a mirror finish very easily.
What was the total time to do this floor?
7 hours from start to finish.
Important question- so we polished a floor and we finished everything but after mopping the floor its as if the whole floor had dust and wouldn’t remove off the concrete floor and we are still trying to fix it because its a fire fighter station so its kind of big and the polished floor is perfect but it seems as if the whole floor has dust that just wont remove. Do you think the dust is under the polish? Or what its the first problem we had since years and we been working in epoxy for 10+ years so this makes no sense
Did you use a wet floor scrubber before you put the guard down? If you don’t have the surface clean enough, the dust will mix with the guard when mopped and get trapped in the floor.
Yes we did we cleaned it to remove all the dust with a dust mop and even passed the burnisher once again because they called us up that they mopped it and once it dried up it turned foggy like of dust but the floor was cleaned very good
Without knowing all the exact details, I couldn’t tell you anymore. I know the guard can get cloudy if it gets wet before it is burnished and cured. Could have been a humidity issue? Could have been a contamination issue? could have been chemical attack? You can always email me direct with product names and details etc. maybe I could shine some light on it.
Okay what is your email?
Jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
Howmuch does this cost, I live in Mckinney texas and am doing A HOOKAH LOUNGE
There's no way I could give you an accurate number, it could be anywhere between three dollars and $15 per square foot depending where you are and repairs needed etc.
I notice you always wear the pants with knee pads. Where do you buy those at? Thanks for the good videos. Have really learned a lot of great material from you.
Thank you for watching, this is what I always wear. I always get the upgraded kneepads also. It is well worth the extra money. facelineinc.com/product/nordic-stretch-toolpants-black/
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions super appreciate it! We sand commercial floors and will be getting in the concrete soon. Thanks for making the videos!
@@danknox8292 look me up when you get into epoxy flooring jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
What kind of equipment did you start out with?
1-HTC 800 Classic 32" grinder and a Blastrac 1-10DS shotblaster and a hiltil dg-150 hand grinder
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Thanks for the response. I just started a small epoxy flooring/polishing business and I aspire to get to where you are. I have a small Genie which works great for prepping garages and other small areas, it would just be very time-consuming to do what you did with it.
One other question, if you don’t mind…? What do you charge for something like that per square foot?
Do you burnish your corners? And if not , wont you see a slight shine difference in well lit rooms?
Our burnisher has a 27” pad so it will not fit in corners. The only way you are going to see a difference is if you can get your eye in the corner on the floor which is impossible. So the answer is NO you cannot see a difference in the corners.
I’m getting ready to have concrete poured. Do the concrete finishers have to do anything different, or is this process done over a standard finish.
Standard finish is fine, the floor just has to be smooth, The smoother the floor the more consistent the polish will be.
Concrete finishers I spoke with explained that there are wide pads the finishers should wear on their feet when they first get on the floor. Also when they are screeding the concrete they don't want to fill in their foot steps behind the screed with cream but to try keep the mix consistent on the screed as the do that. There is a screen roller, they roll the floor with that after screeding the concrete too. The roller pushes down the rocks and stone to a consistent depth to allow a more consistent look. After bull float, the finishers use a power trowel with a pan and this is when the concrete is still soft and they should wear the pads on their feet to spread the weight otherwise you may see foot step marks after grinding, areas with stone visible and footprint areas where stone is not visible. Some specify certain stone in the concrete mix, if your ginding deep into the stone to get that stone color. Others will cast glass or colorful stone onto the top of the concrete so they grind into that for a different look. There are preferences in the concrete beyond the stone mix too but the concrete plants usually have their own recipe they won't deviate from. I'm in NH, one finisher I spoke with had a preference of Carrol concrete opposed to the concrete coming from a plant named Graves. Some thing with the amount of fly ash in the mix and bleed water it creates. This isn't my profession, just info I learned from family and friends in the business. My floor was already poured we are going to try a salt and pepper grind trying to not go too deep and use black or onyx dye. Here are some links for colors I was provided. Hope yours comes out awesome!
www.solomoncolors.com/lythic.php#gsc.tab=0
www.solomoncolors.com/documents/brickform/color-cards/Pro-Dye-Plus-Color-Cards.pdf
prosoco.com/products/concrete-flooring/decorative-color/
www.ameripolish.com/getPDF/Ameripolish%20Color%20Chart_Classic%20-%20Surelock%20-%20Dye-N-Seal.pdf
Is it wise to fill the expansion joints?
When polishing concrete, yes it is. Every time you grind the floor the dust will fall in the open joints and you will keep pulling dust/sand out and re-scratch the floor after each pass.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions I see, and the filling substance looks soft enough to let the floor move as it is supposed to do. Thought you were going to fill them up with something cement-based.
@@goolgehatter1597 We use a polyurea joint filler, which is semi solid. it does allow some movement.
i want to know the marker of this concrete floor. How much does it cost?
This video was shot a while ago. It would be approximately $5000 today
walking while filming is a mistake, if you have a stabilizing feature you should use that. otherwise good video
How much does it cost?
Many factors go into price. How many square feet, condition of concrete, hardness of concrete, amount of edges, gloss required, stain, cracks, joints, repairs, location of job. That being said, a typical job will be $4.00 - $10.00 per sq.ft. depending on the above.
Did you mop between grits?
We do not, we will vacuum sometimes depending how much dust is left on the floor between grinds.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions cool thanks, I'm debating on doing this in my basement but I'm guessing the rental will be expensive and I would probably have to buy my own Dimond pads. I work at a university and we are going for wax to Dimond but it's a lot different process. Not sure where to begin with my basement.
@@richardparnell8402 trying to rent equipment and do it yourself may be extremely challenging. It can be done, but I really don't know if it is worth the time and aggravation. Sometimes you get lucky and everything goes smoothly, if there are any issues it could simply be a nightmare.
Why did you do only one pass with each diamonds, not cross lines? The amount of densifier you use was not enough in my opinion. You can clearly see that you can not evenly saturate the surface, which means the color was not locked in everywhere. BTW very good job and video.
We do every pass perpendicular to the next, otherwise it would be an 18 pass grind, which would be excessive and cost prohibitive. This concrete was extremely hard so we did not oversaturated with the densifier, we do use a microfiber mop after we spray to knock down the dropplets. On softer concrete we would apply more desifier. The Ameripolish Surelock stain we use holds in the concrete very well.
ig the client didn't want to expose the concrete too much that's why only one pass and he already said that the next grind after the vertical one is perpendicular to it....not to leave a pattern.
i want a polished concrete floor.would you recommend the floor be power floated on the initial pour ?
The more consistent the floor is when it’s poured, the better it typically turns out. Yes, power trowel the floor.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions hey thanks man. really appreciate the response
When it comes to a project about how many square feet can you do in a day, from start to finish?
Typically 1000 ft.² per day per grinder
There are a lot of factors that can adjust that number
Thank you
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions
Did you say this was a 1 day project?
About 8 hours, yes