Great video and will definitely help me fix mine. I had to rebuild the actual wooden portions because one of the sides broke in the middle. When you used your jointer I had to cringe because I could just imagine you slipping and your fingers going into the blades. Probably a good place for a push block. I've always been very safety conscious even teaching safety for 30 years. But a couple of years ago I wasn't thinking and lost the tip of a finger when I took a quick chance pushing a piece through the saw without the push stick. Thanks again.
Think I'll seal the fresh faces before I re-assemble and brush the rust off the screws (and - of course - mark the position of the handle in relation to the pin before I pull it off) -- Thanks for the encouragement.
Jeff, I wondered just how long it was going to be before you marked where that hole was 5555.Longer than cleaning the jaws up.An interesting video nonetheless so thank you.
Instead of "refreshing", cutting a v-groove on both faces (or just one face?) is another idea. I think I will try with one or two. Or can a V-groove be cut without taking it apart?
This is a great idea, but please be aware it does not always work and you can damage the clamps. I have some Jorgensen 5/0 small clamps that needed some rehab. When I attempted to drive out the pin I encountered resistance. The driving process finally snapped the threaded rod up in the handle at the drift hole. What I found was that the pin was not merely peened over, but it was driven in so hard as to bend it between the ferrule and the rod on both sides. It was a malformed S or $ and not a straight I. Because Jorgensen is out of business I could not get spare parts. I had to remove the misshapen pin and then screw out the remaining rod. I will attempt to weld and then epoxy the original rod back into the handle, if that fails then I will need to machine a new rod on the lathe. With new small clamps just $9.99 at Rockler (4 would ship for free) it is possible that replacement could turn out cheaper than a repair. My suggestion is to judge carefully how much force you are exerting on the pin when you try to drift it out--if it is a drift pin it should go easily, if it is a smashed S like mine, you might want make your best rehab without taking the clamp apart.
Sorry to hear your clamps were like that. All of mine were relatively easy to take apart and put back together. I do agree that for 10 bucks it would not be worth the time, unless you have nothing better to do.
No problem Jeff, a live and learn situation which is what it is all about. The force they used must have been immense. I drifted one out that was less bent, but the one that snapped was also drilled off center, weakest link broke. I think the weld and epoxy route will work since it is a mini, a 12" maybe not. A note on finishing, I like to use Minwax Spar Exterior Poly, not on the clamp faces though, those I do not finish. The semi-gloss gives a great grip for handles and is impervious to almost anything. Thanks for the video and reply!
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Great video and will definitely help me fix mine. I had to rebuild the actual wooden portions because one of the sides broke in the middle. When you used your jointer I had to cringe because I could just imagine you slipping and your fingers going into the blades. Probably a good place for a push block. I've always been very safety conscious even teaching safety for 30 years. But a couple of years ago I wasn't thinking and lost the tip of a finger when I took a quick chance pushing a piece through the saw without the push stick. Thanks again.
Good advice Barry. Thanks for watching.
Jeff, thanks a lot for the video. I just bought two at an auction that needed a ton of tlc. They turned out great!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Used your method and it worked . Now I have a like new clamp. Thanks
You're welcome, glad to hear it.
Think I'll seal the fresh faces before I re-assemble and brush the rust off the screws (and - of course - mark the position of the handle in relation to the pin before I pull it off) -- Thanks for the encouragement.
Thanks for watching and good luck.
Jeff, I wondered just how long it was going to be before you marked where that hole was 5555.Longer than cleaning the jaws up.An interesting video nonetheless so thank you.
+The sawdust maker. David. Thanks for watching David.
Another good use for a handscrew: hold another one down while working on it!
They do come in handy. Thanks for watching.
Instead of "refreshing", cutting a v-groove on both faces (or just one face?) is another idea. I think I will try with one or two. Or can a V-groove be cut without taking it apart?
I don't think so. Doing that on the inside face, the clamp has to come apart. Good luck and thanks for watching.
This is a great idea, but please be aware it does not always work and you can damage the clamps. I have some Jorgensen 5/0 small clamps that needed some rehab. When I attempted to drive out the pin I encountered resistance. The driving process finally snapped the threaded rod up in the handle at the drift hole. What I found was that the pin was not merely peened over, but it was driven in so hard as to bend it between the ferrule and the rod on both sides. It was a malformed S or $ and not a straight I.
Because Jorgensen is out of business I could not get spare parts. I had to remove the misshapen pin and then screw out the remaining rod. I will attempt to weld and then epoxy the original rod back into the handle, if that fails then I will need to machine a new rod on the lathe.
With new small clamps just $9.99 at Rockler (4 would ship for free) it is possible that replacement could turn out cheaper than a repair. My suggestion is to judge carefully how much force you are exerting on the pin when you try to drift it out--if it is a drift pin it should go easily, if it is a smashed S like mine, you might want make your best rehab without taking the clamp apart.
Sorry to hear your clamps were like that. All of mine were relatively easy to take apart and put back together. I do agree that for 10 bucks it would not be worth the time, unless you have nothing better to do.
No problem Jeff, a live and learn situation which is what it is all about. The force they used must have been immense. I drifted one out that was less bent, but the one that snapped was also drilled off center, weakest link broke. I think the weld and epoxy route will work since it is a mini, a 12" maybe not. A note on finishing, I like to use Minwax Spar Exterior Poly, not on the clamp faces though, those I do not finish. The semi-gloss gives a great grip for handles and is impervious to almost anything. Thanks for the video and reply!
I realize this is 4 yrs old as I write this but if you’re just now seeing this, Taylor Toolworks has kits which would definitely be repair parts.
You will dull your files pressing down on a pull stroke
Thanks for watching Phil.