Cracks me up, watching people in other trades work! I am a former auto/diesel mechanic. I own (and use) every tool imaginable. This guy seems to fix everything with a pair of vice grips and adjustable wrench! The plumber that came to my house, fixed everything with a pair of channel locks! For years, I owed $$$ to every tool truck guy in town! Man, was I dumb! I guess I picked the wrong trade!
Your videos have saved me about a thousand dollars over time.. I’ve changed everything but the compressor. I keep a contactor and a capacitor on hand. It has saved me from having to wait until the next day to get my unit running on a hot afternoon.
Im super surprised to see you wireing in an extra cap instead of useing a dual run. You only need 3 wires to hook up a condencer fan motor. The white (or yellow) common wire and the brown/white are connected inside the motor. So you dont need one of them. Check the continuity to see what im talking about. An example of wireing would be black to L1, white to L2 (or to common on the cap) and then brown to fan on cap. All other wires are nutted off and zip tied up in place. I see allot of guys doing this. Hell i use to do it till i started reading into motors more. Keep up the good work! =D
My neighbor and I will be replacing my fan this Monday. Its not fried but its old and the plugs you mention THANK YOU! I bet that is the reason why my fan looks so rusted they never took the plugs out. I hope the balance comes off easier then the one you had arrg I do not have those tools. I have to put a new contacter in too. Doing a rebuild.
First off I never wear a watch or ring nor does anyone else I know in the field when on the job. I started carrying a pocket watch many years ago but that's just me. Second, to make my repair look clean and hold up longer, I don't use wire nuts and electrical tape. There is room inside the wireway to splice into the original wiring with butt connectors covered with adhesive heat shrink tubing and it takes little or no more time to do. Same for the rotation wiring. And btw, the motor is labeled how to wire it for cw or ccw rotation. Looking at the blade tells me which way to wire it - before I have it completely reassembled. Third, cable ties will get brittle over time, especially when they are tightened to a sharp edge like what is on the louvers of the cover. Cable tie snaps, wires fall into the fan and bad things happen. A piece of conduit or pvc pipe with a stainless steel cable tie is better or a large tie that secures the rotation wires to the body of the motor. I use a replacement motor with the rotation wires in the same outlet of the motor case as the line wires and wire them inside the wireway as well.
What I do with the direction wires is put them inside a piece of 3/4 pvc pipe before I put the lid on the unit. So I find out my direction first by looking at the blade and seeing if it needs to be ccw or cw rotation. Then that way it's all tightened up and the sun won't make them brittle over time and cause a short. I also see that you use a separate capacitor for the fan. I just switch it to a 3 wire set up and use the duel capacitor. That's if it is the same as what I need. I do that to save on wasting another capacitor and less components stuffed in the compartment. But that's just what I do . Everyone is different. Nice video. P.s. Use ur impact on the puller next time with a 3/4 socket , it cuts down on time and a lot easier for you. Now sometimes u have to use wrench due to it being so tight. But 95% of the time I get away with the impact.
Thanks for the video! The use of zip ties is a bad idea. Within a year, the UV rays will rot them to brittle pieces of plastic and will fail with your wires falling back into the fan blade.
Nice repair , just my tough and the way I easily remove those stubborn fan blades, just put a 3/4 socket on that beautiful makita impact you have sitting pretty next to you and, booom , baaam 5 seconds done ! :-) great repair....
I just found this video, but I recently replaced the outside compressor fan motor on my Carrier heat pump. The bearing had gone and it was very noisy/whiney. (With heat pumps, the outside unit also runs in the winter, so the motors wear out faster). I bought the motor online via Amazon. It arrived in a few days and took me less than an hour to replace. What a difference - the outside unit now runs so quietly and the inside handler is now putting out more heat (... which I don't quite understand!) With any electric motor, you just match the specs and the "stud pattern" ... those mounting bolts on the rear of the unit. (CAUTION: Some suppliers specify a motor's stud pattern measured as diagonals ... from stud to stud ... across the center of the motor, but others specify it as two sides of the square pattern).
Good video, too bad on the roof ( I bet HVAC Techs hate systems on the roof- does that increase labor cost?)there was no audio. I like your sound effects when you were struggling to get that shaft from the fan - sounded like Mickey Mouse, lol. It's nice to know Techs like you take pride in their work. Hardworking folks don't want their money wasted on sloppy and substandard work. How much is it to replace a Condenser Motor Fan on a 14 year old Carrier Heat Pump (2 speed, 14 seer - 2 ton unit)? Thanks again for the video - you have a great sense of humor.
Should have shown how to hook up the wires for someone like me who probably has to take pictures of the wires as to put them back where it originally were. Good video, thanks for sharing
Great video, I installed that "universal fit" motor on my RUUD last weekend, the big shaft wasn't a problem, but the new motor was "taller" so I could not get the fan to line up with the cowling. I am about an inch low so I think I may be losing efficiency. I wired up for 1/3hp with a 3 blade fan the old one was 2. Only thing I did not like in the video was the use of plastic zip ties to hold those wires. Zip ties degrade in sunlight and heat so I would not be surprised if it broke and dropped the wire down.
Greg you should use a 3/4 grey pvc pipe to hide the additional wires for the rotation wires. I keeps the wires from drying out and fading and make a much neater job.
I did just this the other day. I also heat-shrink the insulated connectors before I insert them into the conduit. Stainless wire ties are also a must as mentioned in some of the comments. Makes for a much cleaner and safer install.
thanks... coming from the guy who still doesn't have it down which heat pump systems come wired for changeover in heating or cooling. aome things i just will not remember as long as there is a change i can make at the wires or thermostat. hahahah.
great videos, I'm your new enrollee cooling to work here in Brazil, I love your videos ,, make videos showing the tools, ease from then tools is absurd, parabens!
Hey Greg that ground wire on the motor is a case ground and be cut off in that application. If you are using the through bolts of the motor to mount the motor then they will act as your case ground. So next time cut it off.
A couple things: I don't have that fan remover tool so I just did without it - is that okay? When I took my AC unit apart, there was a green grounding wire running from the wiring box to somewhere near the fan motor. So it was screwed into the chassis wall near where the contacter/capacitor is located and the other end I found to be free and unattached near the motor. I think it was either never attached or it became loose as I removed the screws from the top of the unit. Should this be attached to the motor casing?
the explanation is really good. but by logical rules of forgiveness security, you should not carry out tasks of this type with rings on the fingers of the hand, much less have a watch on. They are elements that even if they do not believe they are suitable for an accident. I see that in that aspect he does not have a self-care. and in relation to the blade extractor, to do the job well and take care of it, the captive screws can be secured with a 13mm cup and 3/8 slot and the screw that makes the pressure to extract the blade with a glass of 19 mm or 3/4 to take care of the quadrant and for the bolt that secures the blade to the shaft, it is good to use an 8mm open-end wrench so as not to sweep it because for a later repair there may be drawbacks. For the most part, the video is good.
I also cut the ground wire, same puller but carry an extra, stripped one once, on directional wires I note the orig mtr direction on nameplate & conn univ mtr wire accordingly but cut them short and use those translucent pigtail wire connectors and saves me any extra add on tubing/tie wraps & they are out of way/sight. Nice alley, around you need an armed guard at truck.
Great job on the video and instructions. The only thing unclear to me is the wiring. On this job the old condensor fan motor had three wires. The new motor (possibly a generic brand) had 4 main wires and a green ground wire. I only saw what you did with the ground wire. I believe you attached two wires (two brown wires) to a new condensor fan motor capacitor then attached the yellow to constant and black to fan??? My Old Lennox fan motor had three wires like the old fan motor in the video. The new fan motor had 4 wires like the new motor in your video. I put two of them to the new fan motor condensor and then put yellow to constant and black to fan on the mother board. Your thoughts.
Big no no- KNOWING that wire will get cut up by condenser fan when that zip tie fails because of vibration and the sun. Are you serious? That will last a year or 2 and the zip tie will break. You need to tightly wrap those wires up- and enclose them in a piece of plastic conduit or something so that they are protected by sun and out of the way. ANd so what if you have to lift the motor up to change the (CW/CCW) direction the motor turns. That is no reason to leave wires exposed or accessible. That is for your convenience but not the way you do it. I wont even mention leaving 5-6" of extra shaft hanging down- or the vise grips---seriously- this is a half assed job- and will fail much quicker than it should- and then who pays? Sadly the customer pays again. Do it right. It just gives us all a bad name.
What brand is that puller? That thing is sweet, better then using a bench vise, 3/4 black pipe, a punch and a hammer. Love the videos keep up the good work. Keep them 🔧 turning.
Fan won't move in the unit. I push fan with wire and it will work. I replaced capacitor and fan motor. Still fan won't start it self. Need help to understand what is the problem.
Tip, refer/wrench will loosen blade nut, York-3/8 " nuts, rescue 11/32" ,look at blade curve facing U CW so purple.orange, clip wires in.term cap connector then no wire to hang, no ground need, as motor nuts ground unit. Also stick 1/4 nut driver in extra length bolts back forth snap right off.Save wire ties and look much better. Also black tape wires along channel keeps them together and weather better.
yes I totally agree I worked with a guy I could never give him advice, he claimed to know everything! sloppy worker no nitrogen while brazing never recovered I split way's with him.
It appears you have a impact cordless gun why not fit a socket to it and hold onto the tool with a wrench and apply slight pressure til the puller starts moving, what's with the vise grips, its so much easier with the right tools. You could probably preheat the fan bushing with a propane torch and the fan may just slip off the shaft?
A couple of questions. Why don't supply folks carry the correct motors with the 3 wires and correct rotation vs "universal" ? Aren't the jobs to match what was there and look like it was with USA made motors ? Second, these condenser motors are in vast supply from vast makers and come with ball or sleeve bearings. With all else equal, which bearing is most dependable and to last longest, ball or sleeve?
@@beertek22 Measure distance from lid to fan blades before removing and put blades at same distance from lid with new motor. Critical for correct airflow.
are the plugs for oil/lubrication? these cheap china motors have a tiny rubber cap on the shaft that probably allows rainwater in pretty easily. what if you fill it with oil and put the plugs in?
With all due respect, I think i know less now. I am a super novice so I need lots of help. I dont need video of turning bolts. I can do that. Wiring info...for mr.....nonecistant. Did he cut the shaft? The magic marker wire trail was good.
Another way to avoid being THAT GUY is to wrap the spade connectors for those reversing wires with electrical tape so that they are water-proof, much more important that hiding them for looks - I work on the coast and have seen those connections corrode and cause a failure...YMMV. A few extra seconds and some electrical tape go a long way,
You attached the green wire/ground to one of the bolts between the motor and the fan shroud. isn't the fact that one boil is now further away from the fan shroud than the other three going to cause an offset in the mounting of the motor? I know the thickness of the ground wire EYE is not that thick, but any offset at all when the fan is up to speed could cause warble and vibration... YES? NO? Perhaps that is why the OTHER GUY attached his green/ground wire to the bolt on the outside, since doing so had no effect on the flush mounting of the motor to the shroud. ? ? ? screamcentral.net/misc.pics/groundwire.jpg
i wouldn't recommend changing the motor in these York units mainly the ones with the Microchannel coils they leak its recommended to change the entire outdoor unit
After such a long video, you didn't explain how you wire the motor to the capacitor and the contactor! It could've taken you five less than five minutes to do it and I would've been happy. I watch the whole damn video just to see that and you didn't do it. What a waste of time.
Thanks for uploading this. Just what I needed.
Cracks me up, watching people in other trades work! I am a former auto/diesel mechanic. I own (and use) every tool imaginable. This guy seems to fix everything with a pair of vice grips and adjustable wrench! The plumber that came to my house, fixed everything with a pair of channel locks!
For years, I owed $$$ to every tool truck guy in town! Man, was I dumb! I guess I picked the wrong trade!
Out of all the videos I've watched on this subject, you are the only one that mentioned the drain plug. Thanks for being so thorough.
So many "experts" in the comment section. My a/c started screeching yesterday so I will have to make this repair. Thanks for the tips.
Your videos have saved me about a thousand dollars over time.. I’ve changed everything but the compressor. I keep a contactor and a capacitor on hand. It has saved me from having to wait until the next day to get my unit running on a hot afternoon.
Im super surprised to see you wireing in an extra cap instead of useing a dual run. You only need 3 wires to hook up a condencer fan motor. The white (or yellow) common wire and the brown/white are connected inside the motor. So you dont need one of them. Check the continuity to see what im talking about. An example of wireing would be black to L1, white to L2 (or to common on the cap) and then brown to fan on cap. All other wires are nutted off and zip tied up in place.
I see allot of guys doing this. Hell i use to do it till i started reading into motors more.
Keep up the good work! =D
My neighbor and I will be replacing my fan this Monday. Its not fried but its old and the plugs you mention THANK YOU! I bet that is the reason why my fan looks so rusted they never took the plugs out. I hope the balance comes off easier then the one you had arrg I do not have those tools. I have to put a new contacter in too. Doing a rebuild.
First off I never wear a watch or ring nor does anyone else I know in the field when on the job. I started carrying a pocket watch many years ago but that's just me. Second, to make my repair look clean and hold up longer, I don't use wire nuts and electrical tape. There is room inside the wireway to splice into the original wiring with butt connectors covered with adhesive heat shrink tubing and it takes little or no more time to do. Same for the rotation wiring. And btw, the motor is labeled how to wire it for cw or ccw rotation. Looking at the blade tells me which way to wire it - before I have it completely reassembled. Third, cable ties will get brittle over time, especially when they are tightened to a sharp edge like what is on the louvers of the cover. Cable tie snaps, wires fall into the fan and bad things happen. A piece of conduit or pvc pipe with a stainless steel cable tie is better or a large tie that secures the rotation wires to the body of the motor. I use a replacement motor with the rotation wires in the same outlet of the motor case as the line wires and wire them inside the wireway as well.
Lol.. 14:50 the moment you realized you forgot to feed the wires before sealing the lid. Lol It happens, great vid.
What I do with the direction wires is put them inside a piece of 3/4 pvc pipe before I put the lid on the unit. So I find out my direction first by looking at the blade and seeing if it needs to be ccw or cw rotation. Then that way it's all tightened up and the sun won't make them brittle over time and cause a short. I also see that you use a separate capacitor for the fan. I just switch it to a 3 wire set up and use the duel capacitor. That's if it is the same as what I need. I do that to save on wasting another capacitor and less components stuffed in the compartment. But that's just what I do . Everyone is different. Nice video. P.s. Use ur impact on the puller next time with a 3/4 socket , it cuts down on time and a lot easier for you. Now sometimes u have to use wrench due to it being so tight. But 95% of the time I get away with the impact.
EXCELLENT---this is how its done PROPERLY.
should he have cut the motor shaft to shorten it? does it matter?
Don't be that guy but use visegrips insted of sockets or wrenches LOL
But how else you gonna get that "holding pin" out?
Thanks for uploading brother. Greeting from Modesto !
Thanks for the video! The use of zip ties is a bad idea. Within a year, the UV rays will rot them to brittle pieces of plastic and will fail with your wires falling back into the fan blade.
Great video. Not the safest conditions to be working in. Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for posting!
all good. that's what we do
Nice repair , just my tough and the way I easily remove those stubborn fan blades, just put a 3/4 socket on that beautiful makita impact you have sitting pretty next to you and, booom , baaam 5 seconds done ! :-) great repair....
Good video, thanks. Did not think I may ever need a fan puller--but likely I do!
I just found this video, but I recently replaced the outside compressor fan motor on my Carrier heat pump. The bearing had gone and it was very noisy/whiney. (With heat pumps, the outside unit also runs in the winter, so the motors wear out faster).
I bought the motor online via Amazon. It arrived in a few days and took me less than an hour to replace. What a difference - the outside unit now runs so quietly and the inside handler is now putting out more heat (... which I don't quite understand!)
With any electric motor, you just match the specs and the "stud pattern" ... those mounting bolts on the rear of the unit. (CAUTION: Some suppliers specify a motor's stud pattern measured as diagonals ... from stud to stud ... across the center of the motor, but others specify it as two sides of the square pattern).
Good video, too bad on the roof ( I bet HVAC Techs hate systems on the roof- does that increase labor cost?)there was no audio. I like your sound effects when you were struggling to get that shaft from the fan - sounded like Mickey Mouse, lol. It's nice to know Techs like you take pride in their work. Hardworking folks don't want their money wasted on sloppy and substandard work. How much is it to replace a Condenser Motor Fan on a 14 year old Carrier Heat Pump (2 speed, 14 seer - 2 ton unit)? Thanks again for the video - you have a great sense of humor.
Should have shown how to hook up the wires for someone like me who probably has to take pictures of the wires as to put them back where it originally were. Good video, thanks for sharing
Great video, I installed that "universal fit" motor on my RUUD last weekend, the big shaft wasn't a problem, but the new motor was "taller" so I could not get the fan to line up with the cowling. I am about an inch low so I think I may be losing efficiency. I wired up for 1/3hp with a 3 blade fan the old one was 2. Only thing I did not like in the video was the use of plastic zip ties to hold those wires. Zip ties degrade in sunlight and heat so I would not be surprised if it broke and dropped the wire down.
Greg, couldn't agree with you more. This is the mark of a conscientious tech. Was wondering why you use vice grips so much.
Lol. Just habit...
Greg you should use a 3/4 grey pvc pipe to hide the additional wires for the rotation wires. I keeps the wires from drying out and fading and make a much neater job.
I like it. good point. I'll try it
I did just this the other day. I also heat-shrink the insulated connectors before I insert them into the conduit. Stainless wire ties are also a must as mentioned in some of the comments. Makes for a much cleaner and safer install.
does the blade have to be all the way against the motor ? when you removed it was at the tip of the pole
Those fractional horsepower condenser and blower motors are mostly wired clockwise shaft end from the factory.Good video.
thanks... coming from the guy who still doesn't have it down which heat pump systems come wired for changeover in heating or cooling. aome things i just will not remember as long as there is a change i can make at the wires or thermostat. hahahah.
Thank you for the video! Yours showed me where the conduit went.
I really appreciate your videos very motivational. Your helping me make my mind up on becoming a hvac tech thanks man keep em coming
I have had that puller for about 15 years it's great.
great videos, I'm your new enrollee cooling to work here in Brazil, I love your videos ,, make videos showing the tools, ease from then tools is absurd, parabens!
Thank you!
Next time use a 3/4 impact socket and 1/2 in.ratchet works a lot better ...Great video !!
I like it!
Excellent video, covers the whole process.
Hey Greg that ground wire on the motor is a case ground and be cut off in that application. If you are using the through bolts of the motor to mount the motor then they will act as your case ground. So next time cut it off.
right on Larry. that makes sense.
re
That is some cool tools
These are the kind o vids I enjoy. When I see you in action
Nice work dear
1. Do you install the run capacitor with the terminals facing up or down.2. Does it matter how you place the wiring for the fan motor run capacitor.
A couple things: I don't have that fan remover tool so I just did without it - is that okay? When I took my AC unit apart, there was a green grounding wire running from the wiring box to somewhere near the fan motor. So it was screwed into the chassis wall near where the contacter/capacitor is located and the other end I found to be free and unattached near the motor. I think it was either never attached or it became loose as I removed the screws from the top of the unit. Should this be attached to the motor casing?
could try heat wrench, i.e. apply some heat to the fixture with a torch, before taking it off or any reason not to?
the explanation is really good. but by logical rules of forgiveness security, you should not carry out tasks of this type with rings on the fingers of the hand, much less have a watch on. They are elements that even if they do not believe they are suitable for an accident. I see that in that aspect he does not have a self-care. and in relation to the blade extractor, to do the job well and take care of it, the captive screws can be secured with a 13mm cup and 3/8 slot and the screw that makes the pressure to extract the blade with a glass of 19 mm or 3/4 to take care of the quadrant and for the bolt that secures the blade to the shaft, it is good to use an 8mm open-end wrench so as not to sweep it because for a later repair there may be drawbacks. For the most part, the video is good.
I also cut the ground wire, same puller but carry an extra, stripped one once, on directional wires I note the orig mtr direction on nameplate & conn univ mtr wire accordingly but cut them short and use those translucent pigtail wire connectors and saves me any extra add on tubing/tie wraps & they are out of way/sight. Nice alley, around you need an armed guard at truck.
Great job on the video and instructions. The only thing unclear to me is the wiring. On this job the old condensor fan motor had three wires. The new motor (possibly a generic brand) had 4 main wires and a green ground wire. I only saw what you did with the ground wire. I believe you attached two wires (two brown wires) to a new condensor fan motor capacitor then attached the yellow to constant and black to fan??? My Old Lennox fan motor had three wires like the old fan motor in the video. The new fan motor had 4 wires like the new motor in your video. I put two of them to the new fan motor condensor and then put yellow to constant and black to fan on the mother board. Your thoughts.
Universal motors vs exact fit or OEM.
You are a beast! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. God bless
thanks so much!
Thnk u sir for posting this video it most certainly helped...
Man, you are brave, getting on top of that roof
all good. that's what we do huh?
Hi, Fox, how you connect those open end wires from motor ?
i have fan blade 24" cw
i want to know that.
how much rpm required for perfect air of 24" fan
nice work but that roof little sketchy keep up you do good work
the word your looking for is set screw
Not sure I can take a guy serious who uses just vice grips...
Haha I get it! We all have our ways right? Lol!
Josh, your soft
My thought exactly
@@ndown ..××× ,, ×@×× and y... wwwwwwww
But I use vise grips...
Big no no- KNOWING that wire will get cut up by condenser fan when that zip tie fails because of vibration and the sun. Are you serious? That will last a year or 2 and the zip tie will break. You need to tightly wrap those wires up- and enclose them in a piece of plastic conduit or something so that they are protected by sun and out of the way. ANd so what if you have to lift the motor up to change the (CW/CCW) direction the motor turns. That is no reason to leave wires exposed or accessible. That is for your convenience but not the way you do it. I wont even mention leaving 5-6" of extra shaft hanging down- or the vise grips---seriously- this is a half assed job- and will fail much quicker than it should- and then who pays? Sadly the customer pays again. Do it right. It just gives us all a bad name.
yes, that zip tie will get weather in less than a year with attachment to metal, fan will shred that wire in a year, bad workmanship.
I hear u man I'm that way even if it take's me an xtra 15 20 minuites I will figure something out put a track or pvc pipe....
Any advice on how to cut that Rod after the fans installed, I wasn't able to get the grill on because the rod is too long.
Hacksaw
Grinder, but make sure you cover up the motor, the metal shavings will end up in the motor (magnets) and damage it.
Good Job but I was told to cut the shaft of the motor down, because if you do not it will cause premature bearing failure.
Correct me if I am wrong
You are correct 👍
How so?
MAN THAT WAS GREAT
Great job!
I love the way cars sound like nascar when in fast forward
What brand is that puller? That thing is sweet, better then using a bench vise, 3/4 black pipe, a punch and a hammer. Love the videos keep up the good work. Keep them 🔧 turning.
That puller is a Sensible Products UP-1 . The one here I got in 1998.
+3beltwesty thanks for the information, might have to get one
Another Awesome video! Incredible! Thank you
Fan won't move in the unit. I push fan with wire and it will work. I replaced capacitor and fan motor. Still fan won't start it self. Need help to understand what is the problem.
Word on the streets Greg is still trying to get the blade off..lol
Ha ha good one
hey!! lol!
XD
This guy definitely gets paid by the hour
Ha. That's funny. 🤣
Likely it was a quoted price unless he told them time and material.
You could have cut the ground off due to being mounted on the top of the condenser which is grounded when you bolt it on
Always wear safety glasses!
Tip, refer/wrench will loosen blade nut, York-3/8 " nuts, rescue 11/32" ,look at blade curve facing U CW so purple.orange, clip wires in.term cap connector then no wire to hang, no ground need, as motor nuts ground unit. Also stick 1/4 nut driver in extra length bolts back forth snap right off.Save wire ties and look much better. Also black tape wires along channel keeps them together and weather better.
Also, on unit cover plate/mtr 8/16 ..Helps
My holding pin is out but the fan blades are resting with wd40 overnight and gonna try tomorrow. How is it that rust is like a freaking weld?
Yeah it happens. Sometimes you end up needing to get a new blade (has to be exact replacement) and fan motor. Good luck man
Thank you sir. Your content is top notch.
yes I totally agree I worked with a guy I could never give him advice, he claimed to know everything! sloppy worker no nitrogen while brazing never recovered I split way's with him.
neat job
excellent job!!!!!
nice video
lol don’t be that guy, appreciate the tutorials 👍🏽
Good work.
It appears you have a impact cordless gun why not fit a socket to it and hold onto the tool with a wrench and apply slight pressure til the puller starts moving, what's with the vise grips, its so much easier with the right tools. You could probably preheat the fan bushing with a propane torch and the fan may just slip off the shaft?
whats the " correct way" for a fan to run from your point of view ?
The blade will usually have an indicator of "clockwise" for the correct rotation
A couple of questions. Why don't supply folks carry the correct motors with the 3 wires and correct rotation vs "universal" ? Aren't the jobs to match what was there and look like it was with USA made motors ?
Second, these condenser motors are in vast supply from vast makers and come with ball or sleeve bearings. With all else equal, which bearing is most dependable and to last longest, ball or sleeve?
Looks like a sketchy roof. 😬👍
It really was. The angle iron was pretty stable though.
You didn’t cut the excess shaft. That can lead to premature wear. 🤦🏾♂️
well is it neccesary fox ac?
Don't Be That Guy.........Love It....😎
I always cut the motor shaft as close as possible. motor spins better and last longer.
liverdelove how do you know?
IMon from my experience as an ac tech. 15 yrs
liverdelove beats my one year experience, I'll believe you
How close should the blade be to the motor, is there any acceptable space in between or just anywhere, before cutting off the rest of the rod?
@@beertek22 Measure distance from lid to fan blades before removing and put blades at same distance from lid with new motor. Critical for correct airflow.
Why you don’t show wires where you put them ?
are the plugs for oil/lubrication? these cheap china motors have a tiny rubber cap on the shaft that probably allows rainwater in pretty easily. what if you fill it with oil and put the plugs in?
A precarious perch. At least it wasn't four stories up!
With all due respect, I think i know less now. I am a super novice so I need lots of help.
I dont need video of turning bolts. I can do that.
Wiring info...for mr.....nonecistant.
Did he cut the shaft?
The magic marker wire trail was good.
Might as well rip the ground wire off because it isn't doing anything in that application
That DustBuster just gives you a good headache
Acrobat Service Tech !!
Another way to avoid being THAT GUY is to wrap the spade connectors for those reversing wires with electrical tape so that they are water-proof, much more important that hiding them for looks - I work on the coast and have seen those connections corrode and cause a failure...YMMV.
A few extra seconds and some electrical tape go a long way,
mike_HVAC just hide theme in a small peace of pvc piping and zip tie that part to the underside of fan grill.
I'd just at as soon buy a new blade as well.
#visegrips lol
hey! what do you use? lol...😀
That's folsom and 65th
Need a new knock out kit bro...used up alot energy Gettin that fan blade from the motor
Don't show the homeowner everything! !Great video
haha.
We're going to be out of a job if you continue to show every step. LOL. But keep putting out good videos
You attached the green wire/ground to one of the bolts between the motor and the fan shroud. isn't the fact that one boil is now further away from the fan shroud than the other three going to cause an offset in the mounting of the motor? I know the thickness of the ground wire EYE is not that thick, but any offset at all when the fan is up to speed could cause warble and vibration... YES? NO? Perhaps that is why the OTHER GUY attached his green/ground wire to the bolt on the outside, since doing so had no effect on the flush mounting of the motor to the shroud. ? ? ? screamcentral.net/misc.pics/groundwire.jpg
A fox family and then you don't take it measurements where is the fan blades and
the right place thanks.
Not everything gets recorded on video...its not likely he wants a come back.
go buy a damn small set of nut drivers dude.... it won't break the bank!
Someone remind me not to hiring this company. I see they do sloppy work and the use of vise grips was killing me.
i wouldn't recommend changing the motor in these York units mainly the ones with the Microchannel coils they leak its recommended to change the entire outdoor unit
zip ties in las vegas not a good idea they will not last and the wire will later get caught in the blade
you can get metal zip ties from harbor Freight.
Directions unclear head stuck in toaster.
That's not a good replacement motor
After such a long video, you didn't explain how you wire the motor to the capacitor and the contactor! It could've taken you five less than five minutes to do it and I would've been happy. I watch the whole damn video just to see that and you didn't do it. What a waste of time.
Using the wrong tools. Not knowing what wires are needed to control fan direction. Using zip ties for a permanent job.... Not a company I would hire.