Hey Tony. Want to let you know that I'm loving this series on this pioneer receiver. And I also wanted to expand on your comment about replacing the filter capacitors. Your statement about wanting this receiver to be working 30 or 40 years from now is exactly my thoughts on why I would always replace the filter capacitors in every one of my restoration projects. Even if the capacitor tests okay as far as capacitance and ESR, I will always replace filter capacitors. If you have a leakage tester, you will find that almost every one of these old capacitors are leaking more than a new one. Leakage leads to higher heat within the capacitor and accelerated aging and failure. Even if a capacitor tests within spec in as far as capacitance and ESR is concerned, they will not last. Given that you're going through a restoration on any piece of old equipment, I believe it's money well spent to replace the filter caps if you are replacing all the other electrolytics. And I know it's more of an esoteric, audiophilic aspect, but raising the capacitance of your main filter capacitors will ultimately lead to better sound, especially in the lower frequencies on speakers that are difficult to drive and have low equivalent resistance especially in a lower frequencies. And by equivalent resistance, I mean reactive resistance due to crossover capacitive and inductive reactance, not just pure resistance.
Changing the filter caps made a huge difference in my 1280! People that say to leave them are nuts. Bass was weak and muddy on old caps. Nice and clean with the new caps. Dial lamps don’t dim at all when driven either.
Congrats on getting a Jonard wire unwrapping tool to get off of the wire unwrapping struggle bus. I always cringe when I see people prying apart a wire wrap with pliers when a proper tool is available, or one can be made, which I have an example of. Having had to do wire wrapping on a production level, and also having to take apart and rework them, having the proper tools for that job is a huge time saver.
Nice Tony, taking care of ur audio. Yup even in antique radios they use caps and a filter choke or two. I have the SX850 and SX950 and very plsd with both. I Bring them in for a yearly cleaning of pots. And whatever the tech thinks. I think being in a tobacco free zone is a big help.
Those larger caps should be fine. They used the same value in the SX1250. Moving to a 15000uf on the X80 receiver was likely just a cost-cutting measure.
14:43 22000 mF would deliver 275J of energy, however 22000μF is three orders of magnitude less so would deliver 0.275J of energy since V = q/C and E = ∫V.dq = ∫q/C.dq = q^2C/2 = V^2C/2 where V is in Volts, C is in Farads, q in Coulombs and E in Joules.
im getting ready to overhaul a marantz 140 i have all the parts in my stock but the main filter really wish they still had dual caps available it has lost capacitance and esr so it needs it . i still havent tackled my 1280 but this series is giving me insparation to get on it
Is it OK to install these screw terminal caps with the terminals and vent on the bottom? I have heard you always want the vent on these types of caps pointing up. I’d like to get your thoughts on this. I’m going to be replacing some 22,000 uF caps in a Pioneer SX-950 and I need to decide on the orientation Thanks
It won't hurt for them to face down. You just have to make sure they aren't being blocked by being right up against a circuit board or chassis. The idea is if thee cap vents, it can release the pressure through the vent plug located between the terminals of the cap. On other caps, the top of the capacitor case is scored in a + pattern, which will allow it to pop open to vent. again, it doesn't matter which way it faces, just so long as it isn't being blocked by something pushing directly against it.
Use an MJE15032G. It is in a TO-220 package and the outer leads will line up with the pins and the tab will line up with one of the mounting holes for the collector connection.
Hey Tony. Want to let you know that I'm loving this series on this pioneer receiver. And I also wanted to expand on your comment about replacing the filter capacitors. Your statement about wanting this receiver to be working 30 or 40 years from now is exactly my thoughts on why I would always replace the filter capacitors in every one of my restoration projects. Even if the capacitor tests okay as far as capacitance and ESR, I will always replace filter capacitors. If you have a leakage tester, you will find that almost every one of these old capacitors are leaking more than a new one. Leakage leads to higher heat within the capacitor and accelerated aging and failure. Even if a capacitor tests within spec in as far as capacitance and ESR is concerned, they will not last. Given that you're going through a restoration on any piece of old equipment, I believe it's money well spent to replace the filter caps if you are replacing all the other electrolytics. And I know it's more of an esoteric, audiophilic aspect, but raising the capacitance of your main filter capacitors will ultimately lead to better sound, especially in the lower frequencies on speakers that are difficult to drive and have low equivalent resistance especially in a lower frequencies. And by equivalent resistance, I mean reactive resistance due to crossover capacitive and inductive reactance, not just pure resistance.
Love that you use your grandson's present screwdriver. You'll use that for the rest of your life now.
Changing the filter caps made a huge difference in my 1280! People that say to leave them are nuts. Bass was weak and muddy on old caps. Nice and clean with the new caps. Dial lamps don’t dim at all when driven either.
Dear sir, most of us ,i.e. 99%, love your videos, even if these are "outframed".
Tony you jumped when thst cap sparked... and so did I!!!
oh no! I started reading through the comments before I pressed the play button and now you spoiled it for me! 🤣
Those large 22,000uF caps are around $30 USD a piece, in case anyone was wondering.
Congrats on getting a Jonard wire unwrapping tool to get off of the wire unwrapping struggle bus.
I always cringe when I see people prying apart a wire wrap with pliers when a proper tool is available, or one can be made, which I have an example of. Having had to do wire wrapping on a production level, and also having to take apart and rework them, having the proper tools for that job is a huge time saver.
Taking copious quantities of pictures before undoing things is a good advisory!
I for one learned something new: dielectric absorption! Thank you for the lesson, Tony! 😂 "good quality stuff" - famous last words 😁
🤣
Your camera work is exemplary, I don't know how you do it while working on the equipment!
Nice Tony, taking care of ur audio. Yup even in antique radios they use caps and a filter choke or two.
I have the SX850 and SX950 and
very plsd with both. I Bring them in for a yearly cleaning of pots. And whatever the tech thinks. I think being in a tobacco free zone is a big help.
Hey Tony,
I jumped too!
Those larger caps should be fine. They used the same value in the SX1250. Moving to a 15000uf on the X80 receiver was likely just a cost-cutting measure.
Luckily, I was able to get Nichicon KG in my Yamaha B2 before the supply dried up last year.
As always....great teaching video.
TY!
12:13 Scared the living $#!+ out of me.
Me too!!!
14:43 22000 mF would deliver 275J of energy, however 22000μF is three orders of magnitude less so would deliver 0.275J of energy since V = q/C and E = ∫V.dq = ∫q/C.dq = q^2C/2 = V^2C/2 where V is in Volts, C is in Farads, q in Coulombs and E in Joules.
Yep, i messed up my decimals there. Typical 🙄
im getting ready to overhaul a marantz 140 i have all the parts in my stock but the main filter really wish they still had dual caps available it has lost capacitance and esr so it needs it . i still havent tackled my 1280 but this series is giving me insparation to get on it
Looking forward to the next video. Thank you. Mike.
Bahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!! I think I jumped more than you did Tony! 🤣
Excellent video Tony !
Thank you
Greg
I jumped when I saw the capacitor short out.
excellent as always tony,great video even with the sparks.😅
2:40 - Odd. I always thought those big can caps had *screw terminals* !
I hope to learn where to buy the modern boards😊
In part 6
WD 40 has a solvent in it, PB blaster is actually better for long term protection.
Oh ya I definitely jumped and I’m not even there.
Too bad Nichicon KG are no longer made. Look into the Kemet options for filter caps.
Great work
Hi Tony . I have quastions, why ground reference is chassi connected? Is it common that they did in old days??
That almost made me jump lol. Your underwear ok Tony?
so thats what jumpscaring is, its ok though i needed to change my underware anyway, lol lol
Is it OK to install these screw terminal caps with the terminals and vent on the bottom? I have heard you always want the vent on these types of caps pointing up. I’d like to get your thoughts on this. I’m going to be replacing some 22,000 uF caps in a Pioneer SX-950 and I need to decide on the orientation
Thanks
It won't hurt for them to face down. You just have to make sure they aren't being blocked by being right up against a circuit board or chassis. The idea is if thee cap vents, it can release the pressure through the vent plug located between the terminals of the cap. On other caps, the top of the capacitor case is scored in a + pattern, which will allow it to pop open to vent. again, it doesn't matter which way it faces, just so long as it isn't being blocked by something pushing directly against it.
Hello, please compare FFT oscilloscope with THD meter
Yes we enjoy that Tony lol stops becoming complacent.
Why not use a solid aluminium electrolytics there is no electrolyte lost a long long time.
Haven't they ceased production of those years ago? Were they even ever made in such massive capacity/voltage rating? I do not think so.
Hi Tony.Can you help to find better TO66 replacement for 2SD315 D?Thanks for any help.
Use an MJE15032G. It is in a TO-220 package and the outer leads will line up with the pins and the tab will line up with one of the mounting holes for the collector connection.
@@xraytonyb Thanks Tony.You are awesome. Now I can bring back to life my M 4240;)
👍
Lookin good.Thanks for your time!