Nicely done, sir. I have that same brake, and have been considering how best to do what you showed. I think I will use angle iron, so that I can go well past 90 for hems and such. Thanks for laying this out for us to see!
Thanks for a very good video to follow ! Keep it coming with other easy way to work with our projects with very simple tools and to know how to accomplish each task . Thank you for the video.
One of the best mods. for this break that i have seen. I have this break and like it a lot but it definitely needs this modification . Will be using your suggestions for this modification , thanks for the video >
Thank you, it reallly makes it so much easier and faster to use. I actually used it today to fabricate a custom stainless steel mounting bracket for a boat trolling motor. Great tool!
Thank you, I appreciate it. I am making another video now that will show another good modification to make it easy and quick to attach to a workbench with no clamps or bolts needed, for quick removal. have a great day!
You could run the angle iron across the bottom, but not on the top. As long as it doesn't interfere with feeding the sheet metal into the brake, it should work. Thank you!
Great video! Well done Sir!! I just picked up the same brake to do some aluminum work. In the instructions it talks about adjusting the bar in and out for the thickness of the material your bending. Did you just set the bar all the way forward so that when you pull it, it lines up with the bevel and call it good there? Also, the holes for the 7/16 bolts, did you drill those at 7/16 or oversize them? Ive done a fair bit of metal work but this is my first dive into sheet metal. Thank you much for the video!
Mike, thanks for the compliments...it was a fun video to make and I plan to make another one with a great modification to make it easy to mount to a table or bench. If I am bending really thin metal, I do put the bar all the way forward to the bend line. But if I am bending thicker metal, I do slide the bar back away from the bend line, just about the thickness of the material to be bent. As far as the holes for the 7/16" bolts, I just drill them with a 7/16" bit. The bit usually wobbles just a little as it goes through to make the hole large enough for the bolt to slip through. Enjoy your project and using the bender!
I like it and it looks and works great!! I've had one of those benders for a few years (never used it) and was going to do the same thing but where the hold down bolts go through I am going to use a wider plate and make the holes oval so you can get tighter or looser bends. Good job.
Thank you for the question. It would be very difficult. I guess you could use a drill and tap to tap threaded holes in the top bar to add the stiffening tube and the 2 plates at each end of the bar. And you could drill through the support angles to add the 2 bolts at each end. Perhaps that would work. Great question!
Thank you. The bar comes from the factory with the beveled edge. Just make sure you don't install it upside down! But if you want to bend a lot more than 90 degrees, yes, you would have to grind the edge at a much greater angle.
Yeah, I'd use angle iron with the vertical flange at the back of the bar away from the bending edge. You'd probably be able to go to 135* in that case.
Great job of explaining and videotaped progression. Thank you. Do you think making the bolt down feet longer would help more, say 1 foot long with hole on each end? “Bible- Gods directions on how he wants us to live.”
I think that is a great idea for the longer feet. All the pressure of lifting up to bend the metal is transferred to the short feet. I might do that mod to mine. Thanks!
Nicely done, sir. I have that same brake, and have been considering how best to do what you showed. I think I will use angle iron, so that I can go well past 90 for hems and such. Thanks for laying this out for us to see!
Thanks for a very good video to follow ! Keep it coming with other easy way to work with our projects with very simple tools and to know how to accomplish each task . Thank you for the video.
Thank you. I actually used it again today to bend a custom stainless steel mounting bracket for a boat trolling motor. Super useful tool!
Well done. Thank you.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
I have one of these breaks. I need to work your magic on it... I subbed also!!!
Awesome...thank you.
One of the best mods. for this break that i have seen. I have this break and like it a lot but it definitely needs this modification . Will be using your suggestions for this modification , thanks for the video >
Thank you, it reallly makes it so much easier and faster to use. I actually used it today to fabricate a custom stainless steel mounting bracket for a boat trolling motor. Great tool!
Nice set up Bill, good idea.
Thank you, I appreciate it. I am making another video now that will show another good modification to make it easy and quick to attach to a workbench with no clamps or bolts needed, for quick removal. have a great day!
Thank you Bill for the information, what wire feed speed and power you used on the titanium flux 125 welder?
There are 2 dials on the machine. They both were turned up to 1/3 of the total range. Thanks for the question!
Could you use 1 piece of angle steel to go all the way across for your bolt & spring connections?
You could run the angle iron across the bottom, but not on the top. As long as it doesn't interfere with feeding the sheet metal into the brake, it should work. Thank you!
Exelente muchas gracias👌👌👍👍
De Nada, Mi Amigo!
Great video! Well done Sir!! I just picked up the same brake to do some aluminum work. In the instructions it talks about adjusting the bar in and out for the thickness of the material your bending. Did you just set the bar all the way forward so that when you pull it, it lines up with the bevel and call it good there? Also, the holes for the 7/16 bolts, did you drill those at 7/16 or oversize them? Ive done a fair bit of metal work but this is my first dive into sheet metal. Thank you much for the video!
Mike, thanks for the compliments...it was a fun video to make and I plan to make another one with a great modification to make it easy to mount to a table or bench. If I am bending really thin metal, I do put the bar all the way forward to the bend line. But if I am bending thicker metal, I do slide the bar back away from the bend line, just about the thickness of the material to be bent. As far as the holes for the 7/16" bolts, I just drill them with a 7/16" bit. The bit usually wobbles just a little as it goes through to make the hole large enough for the bolt to slip through. Enjoy your project and using the bender!
I like it and it looks and works great!! I've had one of those benders for a few years (never used it) and was going to do the same thing but where the hold down bolts go through I am going to use a wider plate and make the holes oval so you can get tighter or looser bends. Good job.
Thanks for the comment, and your idea of the oval holes will work great!
What if you dont have a welder? Anyway around it?
Thank you for the question. It would be very difficult. I guess you could use a drill and tap to tap threaded holes in the top bar to add the stiffening tube and the 2 plates at each end of the bar. And you could drill through the support angles to add the 2 bolts at each end. Perhaps that would work. Great question!
perfect reason to get a welder!
YOU BET! @@larrybud
The top bar needs a beveled edge if you need to bend more than 90 degrees!
Thank you. The bar comes from the factory with the beveled edge. Just make sure you don't install it upside down! But if you want to bend a lot more than 90 degrees, yes, you would have to grind the edge at a much greater angle.
Yeah, I'd use angle iron with the vertical flange at the back of the bar away from the bending edge. You'd probably be able to go to 135* in that case.
Great job of explaining and videotaped progression. Thank you. Do you think making the bolt down feet longer would help more, say 1 foot long with hole on each end? “Bible- Gods directions on how he wants us to live.”
I think that is a great idea for the longer feet. All the pressure of lifting up to bend the metal is transferred to the short feet. I might do that mod to mine. Thanks!