You should really mention the fault and show the faulty part being tested, because this just looked like an exercise in soldering, ie, I thought this was just an upgrade, but now I see this comment and see it was a fault.
Mind you if I am just replacing the mosfets wholesale, I usually just cut off the legs and not bother with too much low melt solder. It's kinda expensive and hard to get (the good stuff anyway) over here. There is a nasty gel you can get for removing conformal coating (this one looked doable but I have seen some heavy duty stuff that will not go easy). I hate conformal coatings with a passion but for a car our outside environment it makes sense.
Hi, just a hint: I'm desoldering such devices by simultaneously using two solder irons. One for source and gate and one for the drain. Much faster and more gentle to the board than hot air.
I had the same issue once with my ECU. They mechanic back then explained to me that the issue was caused by the broken ground strap. In fact the stock strap rly was almost in two pieces but there were still about 15-30 braids holding strong. So there was definitely a contact to ground for the ECU I guess. Still I was happy that those ignition drivers are replaceable.
Thank you. Only if you are going to heat the board then you can pre-tin the pads, otherwise the solder will wick under this way. Same way they loosened up taking them off.
@@SolderBrothersIf this is the ECU I think it is, it's a known issue with them and the others are bound to fail eventually. Better to just do them all at once.
That motherboard is maybe even harder for soldering than PC motherboards which are well known as high heat absorption boards. If I doint that , according to what I have seen in video , preheating board would help alot at start, as after first MOSFET is out other MOSFETS did go out much easier. And yea nice job you have done.
@@SolderBrothers all good there, I didn’t mean for my comment to come over too harsh it was meant to be a bit of constructive criticism but good on you for showing us what you can do.
The customer actually already picked the unit up and reported that the car runs great now
You should really mention the fault and show the faulty part being tested, because this just looked like an exercise in soldering, ie, I thought this was just an upgrade, but now I see this comment and see it was a fault.
@SidneyCritic yeah I agree, always notice those things after. But I wasn't doing the diagnostic and the video time was getting long. Next time
Thanks
hi
This is excellent, it would be cool if you specified that this is an MSD80 DME from N54 powered cars
Wow! Even if those pieces were the size of lego i could not get it any straighter! Better than factory!
The only difference I would do is preload the pads under the chip. This is nice work.
Where did you get the chips from? Add link please
Parts were customer provided from boostmonkey.com/
Mind you if I am just replacing the mosfets wholesale, I usually just cut off the legs and not bother with too much low melt solder. It's kinda expensive and hard to get (the good stuff anyway) over here.
There is a nasty gel you can get for removing conformal coating (this one looked doable but I have seen some heavy duty stuff that will not go easy). I hate conformal coatings with a passion but for a car our outside environment it makes sense.
Hi, just a hint: I'm desoldering such devices by simultaneously using two solder irons. One for source and gate and one for the drain. Much faster and more gentle to the board than hot air.
Why don't you just cut gate and source off the board first and use only one soldering iron then ?
I had the same issue once with my ECU. They mechanic back then explained to me that the issue was caused by the broken ground strap. In fact the stock strap rly was almost in two pieces but there were still about 15-30 braids holding strong. So there was definitely a contact to ground for the ECU I guess. Still I was happy that those ignition drivers are replaceable.
no need to put solder on pads covered by chip before install? thanks. great repair
Thank you. Only if you are going to heat the board then you can pre-tin the pads, otherwise the solder will wick under this way. Same way they loosened up taking them off.
no bro this is the right way to do it
Do the mosfets go bad on n52 cars or just n54
Sorry don't know that answer.
99% of the time only N54
A great job ,well explained video
Which air gun manufacturer and model do you use?
Best BST-863, Thank You!
Did you check the readings from the removed Mosfets out of curiosity?
Yes, only one was bad. it could be seen before removal, but customer wanted them all replaced.
@@SolderBrothersIf this is the ECU I think it is, it's a known issue with them and the others are bound to fail eventually. Better to just do them all at once.
Nice job.
I have fixed loads of these
Great job bud.
Thanks 👍
That motherboard is maybe even harder for soldering than PC motherboards which are well known as high heat absorption boards. If I doint that , according to what I have seen in video , preheating board would help alot at start, as after first MOSFET is out other MOSFETS did go out much easier. And yea nice job you have done.
love
nice
Easy money :)
what a strange looking resistors
0.1% tolerance resistors for automotive controls
Sorry bloke but I didn’t enjoy watching it, way too fast with the repairs and not enough explanation to what you were doing
Copt that, sorry. Practicing to get better at the video. Cheers
@@SolderBrothers all good there, I didn’t mean for my comment to come over too harsh it was meant to be a bit of constructive criticism but good on you for showing us what you can do.
@markB40 thank you, you're all good. No insult, takes practice.
Audio is terrible
Yeah, sorry. Wireless sensitivity got switched and I didn't notice.