Sir, you are my idol. I have watched about 1/4 of your videos and have learned about clock making, machining, and new products that will aid in both. Thank you so much for making these videos.
First, thank you for sharing your years of knowledge with us, being at best a hobbiest, I enjoy watching and learning how to repair these works of art. I look forward to more knowledge filled videos from you in the future. Thank You!
Thanks for sharing your years of knowledge. I find your trade fascinating. I would be very interested in you demonstrating how a manual clock works. Also, I really like your shop and all of the machines and tooling that you've acquired over the years.
Hello James. Great video. Thank you so much. Some time could you please explain and demonstrate the use of "tension wires" in a clock? I am in the process of putting Sessions back together and only know that the tension wire is 26 ga. Thank you.
James, Thank you for sharing another one of your fascinating videos. I ordered a used version of the book you recommended. Maybe in one of your future series you can recommend other essential clock repair and constructions books. Your shop tour showed an extensive library of books you have collected over the years in the business. Regards, Paul Jones
I would be interested in how you removed the excess epoxy, and polished the hard steel pallets after they were in place. Also how the 35 degree angle was decided upon.
Thanks so much for a great real time video. With as much precision as you achieved acquiring the 35 degree angles for your pallet I am curious how you preserved that precision as you fitted these parts to the pallet you were repairing. Wouldn't there be a tendency to lose your precision if the fitted parts rocked upon insertion and gluing?
Richard Leland I was thinking that too.. Also I was wondering how he managed the solder the anchor in the correct angular position, it's a problem I have had in the past.
Very nice to see this! Forgive me if I'm missing something here but isn't part of the deadbead arrangement with a Graham that the pallets are radiused? How does that work with your flat pallet surfaces? Best regards Karl
+James A. Lea The Village Clockmaker Okay. I'm not trying to argue with you, just trying to make sense of what I've learned so far and what I keep learning. The impulse faces are flat on the Grahams I've seen but the resting surfaces are radiused. I think that by making them flat you are turning a dead beat escapement into a recoil one. Here is a graphic of what I'm trying to put into words: www.princeton.edu/~timeteam/graham.html Again, I realize that you do have a lifetime of experience and I'm just looking to learn. Thanks for a great video! Best regards K
i have the same graham dead beat in my vienna wall clock... although the lenth of my pallets are adjustable. i dont know what length they need to be i get a good tick tock but i just do not seem to get any power to the pendulum and clock stops within mins. without the anchor the time train runs very well with very little effort. can someone please help
Trigonomics?... surely you mean 'trigonometry'?... but wouldn't you simply look it up in your Zeus book... I take it that you have a Zeus book? How did I know that you would eschew the time-honoured fixative of shellac, which is very easy to removed by the application of a little heat and organic solvents. Your choice of the abominable epoxy resin, which is extremely difficult to remove, involving enzyme degradation, e.g. soaking in pineapple juice for several weeks, is very poor clock-making practice. The pallet surfaces finished on what, 600 grit 'Wet or Dry paper'? What happened to 1200 and 1500 grit? 600 grit is very rough work. Ancient Greek, the Hippocratic Oath: Κατ 'αρχάς, μην κάνει κακό (First, do no harm). Unsympathetic restoration is worse than no restoration at all. Do it properly, or don't bother doing it at all.
fascinating old school machinist/toolmaking work!
Дякую вам за працю, хай щастить
Sir, you are my idol. I have watched about 1/4 of your videos and have learned about clock making, machining, and new products that will aid in both. Thank you so much for making these videos.
First, thank you for sharing your years of knowledge with us, being at best a hobbiest, I enjoy watching and learning how to repair these works of art. I look forward to more knowledge filled videos from you in the future. Thank You!
رائع جيمس..عمل رائع..أستمر رجاء"..شكرا"جزيلا"..
Thanks for sharing your years of knowledge. I find your trade fascinating. I would be very interested in you demonstrating how a manual clock works. Also, I really like your shop and all of the machines and tooling that you've acquired over the years.
Thanks for sharing the process.
Hello James. Great video. Thank you so much. Some time could you please explain and demonstrate the use of "tension wires" in a clock? I am in the process of putting Sessions back together and only know that the tension wire is 26 ga. Thank you.
GREAT VIDEO !
Excellent Job! I use Wax Paper on the bench when applying epoxy... Parts and Drips won't Stick. Wish I had all your knowledge.
James,
Thank you for sharing another one of your fascinating videos. I ordered a used version of the book you recommended. Maybe in one of your future series you can recommend other essential clock repair and constructions books. Your shop tour showed an extensive library of books you have collected over the years in the business.
Regards, Paul Jones
Great video Jim thank you for sharing your knowledge. Could a anchor escapement be repaired in the same way that didn’t use pallets?
many thanks,
James, Great video. I'm interested in what surface grinder your using? Maybe you cover this in a video?
Great videos very interesting. Is 69 years old to late to get started? Thank You
Never too late, I'm 61 and only just started....
Get a decent set of optical enhancers and have a go.....
I would be interested in how you removed the excess epoxy, and polished the hard steel pallets after they were in place. Also how the 35 degree angle was decided upon.
Thanks so much for a great real time video. With as much precision as you achieved acquiring the 35 degree angles for your pallet I am curious how you preserved that precision as you fitted these parts to the pallet you were repairing. Wouldn't there be a tendency to lose your precision if the fitted parts rocked upon insertion and gluing?
Richard Leland
I was thinking that too..
Also I was wondering how he managed the solder the anchor in the correct angular position, it's a problem I have had in the past.
Another great video James! Thanks for sharing. BTW what type of surface grinder are you using? I'm refurbishing an old Boyar Shultz 612 at the moment.
I don't know. It was a gift from an old friend and had to be rebuilt so there was no tag.
Very nice to see this! Forgive me if I'm missing something here but isn't part of the deadbead arrangement with a Graham that the pallets are radiused? How does that work with your flat pallet surfaces?
Best regards
Karl
+Karl Månsson I don't think so. Every one I have ever seen was flat. Thanks for watching. JL
+James A. Lea The Village Clockmaker Okay. I'm not trying to argue with you, just trying to make sense of what I've learned so far and what I keep learning. The impulse faces are flat on the Grahams I've seen but the resting surfaces are radiused. I think that by making them flat you are turning a dead beat escapement into a recoil one.
Here is a graphic of what I'm trying to put into words: www.princeton.edu/~timeteam/graham.html
Again, I realize that you do have a lifetime of experience and I'm just looking to learn. Thanks for a great video!
Best regards
K
I wonder if epoxy is durable, 10 years or so
i have the same graham dead beat in my vienna wall clock... although the lenth of my pallets are adjustable. i dont know what length they need to be i get a good tick tock but i just do not seem to get any power to the pendulum and clock stops within mins. without the anchor the time train runs very well with very little effort. can someone please help
Did you sort your problem out?
Trigonomics?... surely you mean 'trigonometry'?... but wouldn't you simply look it up in your Zeus book... I take it that you have a Zeus book?
How did I know that you would eschew the time-honoured fixative of shellac, which is very easy to removed by the application of a little heat and organic solvents. Your choice of the abominable epoxy resin, which is extremely difficult to remove, involving enzyme degradation, e.g. soaking in pineapple juice for several weeks, is very poor clock-making practice.
The pallet surfaces finished on what, 600 grit 'Wet or Dry paper'? What happened to 1200 and 1500 grit? 600 grit is very rough work.
Ancient Greek, the Hippocratic Oath: Κατ 'αρχάς, μην κάνει κακό (First, do no harm). Unsympathetic restoration is worse than no restoration at all.
Do it properly, or don't bother doing it at all.
With all your expertise you should be making a video. (Sarcasm intended)
Ouch.....crikey I'll bet that hurt...!!