The angle is actually 60degrees, you measured the compliment, so 30+ 60= 90. The metal plate is 30, but the angle marked on the paper is 60 not 30. The third contact, helps to create a ionised zone that reduces the erosion of the primary and secondary contact points. "The teaser electrode is used to solve the problem of time lag when using pointed electrodes (versus a spherical electrode). Time lag results in inconsistent voltage to produce an arc (voltage tends to be higher or overshoot without the teaser). This third electrode is universal used when measuring arc voltage across pointed electrodes. The teaser electrode is insulated from the other two electrodes and is typically set to 0.1 mm gap from the main electrode (5 mm gap). As voltage rises on the main electrode a tiny arc (invisible) travels to the teaser which produces ionization in the main spark plug gap which helps set off the main arc. Without the third electrode you have no method of comparing your results with book values since the spark voltage will be different and variable. I would add that I believe that the 0.1 mm gap distance has to be accurately set on all electrodes in order to get even sparking across leads. A properly designed magneto tester with a properly operating magneto should produce such even sparks that the sound of the sparks is as regular as music. You should be able to detect a bad magneto from across the room with your back turned to the tester just from the sound of the arching. "
Nice build, I use a less expensive version that has voice feed back, it's called a brother in law! If he whimpers, the spark is poor, swears then it's good. Only get to use it a few times a year till he wises up to it!
Pretty fair job ROADKING you'll be kept on! Thanks for the idea and 'plans', there's something else I can make. I had one of those spark testers, but of course, it 'grew feet' and ran away too, like a lot of my service tools from my 'shop days'.
Sept. 5, 2018 I have a Comment below, from June, about contacting Briggs regarding the 2nd, 30-degree post. They told me it keeps the spark straighter. I recently got a book from the library, "Small Engine Technology, 2nd Edition," by William A. Schuster, copyright 1999, with excerpts from the 1st edition, copyright 1993. He states, "The extra point on the tester compensates for the ionization of the air that occurs at the tester point area when a series of sparks jump the gap . . . . It keeps the spark jumping straight and the tester accurate." It goes on to say, "The opening is covered by a transparent plastic on both sides to increase the accuracy." The two testers he mentions are this one, #19051 and the current, small plastic one, #19368.
It turned out really nice, Roadking. I was thinking I could make one with black ABS pipe, not expecting it to last as long as the one you made, of course. Thanks, Bud!!
Oil your lathe back gears. Use a hole saw to save plugs for future projects .CDI. ( capacitor discharge ignition ) may burn out without the third point . GREAT VIDEO !
My grandpa used to make these all the time and his never had that 3rd bolt. I will still make one from time to time and don't include it. I've always wondered why it was there on the store bought ones.
twocvbloke I remember jamming a screwdriver in the spark caps on the old motorbike to see if they were live. Or a mate holding it n asking you to kick it slow n then kicking the shit out of it n watching him fry. Ha Ha, good times
Nice Job . I have one of the old originals . Came from My Small Engine Tech Teacher many moons ago .I think I'll make one next winter when I'm stuck inside the shop
Making the pointed ends was a good method for some transfer points, or whatever you call them? The points looked to be dead nuts on center. A few times, making a cover, or something like that I needed a quick accurate way of lining up some bolt holes and that would work great I would think? My spark tester sucks compared to that one. It’s just an old plug with a ground clamp hose clamped to the threads of the plug. Anyway, another great vid Roadking!
The third pin is static and isn't adjustable. Its for checking magnetos. If you don't know, it isn't good to fire a mag with out a spark plug hooked up or youll fry the coils inside the mag. That's where the third pin comes in. It is already set to its maximum and isn't adjustable. You trip the mag and it'll fire on that pin. Its just giving the spark some place to travel to.
The 30 degree angled pointy thing: I had emailed B&S about that after I bought my newer, plastic spark tester. They said that having it there keeps the spark a little "straighter," so it's not going all over the place between the gap, like a little bolt of lightning. Whether that's true/correct or not, I couldn't tell you. The spark is supposed to find the path of least resistance, through the air gap, to ground - allegedly this second point helps with that???
Great Job Roadie!! If you feel so inclined...I'd be honored to sport one of these in my shop. I never ask, but this is just too cool to not at least see if you would be willing to knock one out for ole Zippy~
Hey Zip!! Sorry for the delayed response, just got back from a week at Coolsprings engine Show!! We'll definitely make you one, just give me a few minutes!! We're pretty busy with the shows right now, but we'll definitely fit you in!!☺
I just got a vintage tester on eBay like yours but it’s got the glass on the side,not as old ,and I will keep looking for the same part # 19058 the one I have is 19368 I love the one you just made , it came out great Don’t need just like , keep it fun
I too am wondering about the third bolt. Pictures often show insulation on most of the 3rd. Maybe Road King can try it with and without the 3rd to see if it functions differently
Good idea Mate. Going to make one of those, new demo for the Mystery Engine. Which btw is a big hit. Soon as I pulled up last Saturday 'Let's see the engine'. Nice to do something right for once eh!
I think it’s for a shorter plug wire or different style boots maybe
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They used to use buttons, put a wire through the hole of a button and twist it and do the same with the other hole so you have two wires connected to the button.Connect one to the spark plug and one to the lead.You should be able to see the spark jump between the two wires across the button.
This is just a guess for the third electrode. Imagine you want to test the gap on a plug in a car engine where it's a pain to get the plug out. You could put the coil wire on one electrode, the wire to the plug on angled electrode that touches, and then you could attach the ground clamp. You would then adjust the gap in your test device smaller and smaller, and when the gap is a hair smaller in your test device than the gap in the plug, it will start jumping in your test device rather than your plug. Then you know the gap of the plug without having to remove it!
The purpose of having so much adjustability in a spark tester is to simulate the environment the spark plug is in while the cylinder is under compression. The compressed air makes it much harder for the electrons to jump the gap on the plug. Since atmospheric air pressure doesnt have that effect you compensate by increasing the gap on the tester. A .030” gap under compression has similar resistance to a 1/4” gap under atmospheric pressure. Those numbers arent exact by any means, just using them as an example.
You might be on the right track, though. It could be something used to check spark plug wear. Back in those days they didnt have platinum tipped plugs, so they wore down pretty consistently. You could tell how much wear the plug has by the amount of gap it takes to get the spark to bypass the spark plug and travel through the tester instead.
Hey roadking, Loving the recent regular how-to videos as well as the usual big projects. Have you thought about having some roadking stickers made up to sell? I would certainly buy one!
I have 2 of the old original ones. One I couldn't find so I ordered another one.. Both I can't find now so I had to order a Oregon In line tester Oregon 42-031 which is one of the best in my opinion.... No taking the plug out to test the coil..... I don't know the terminology for the extra bolt, but it has something do do with induction or field area..... Like I said I'm not sure........... In Fact Zippo makes the homemade in line testers from a old plug wire and a phillips bit.... Did you see that video he made ?? Great video Mon Ami Plus Tard.........
(21:42) I had to go back and carefully stop the video to see it but the spark jumped from the UN-connected screw to ground not from the screw with the plug wire. Any ideas there? (or maybe I'm seeing things). Might be more to the purpose for that screw than one thinks.
Yeah the spark was jumping through the other bolt, it happens when you have a really strong spark!! No worries, as long as you're getting a spark, that's all that matters!!☺
Very good idea and great craftsmanship but a small hose clamp marrying an old spark plug to a crocodile clamp as served me well for many many years. Not very professional looking but form before fashion. :-)
Question for you RoadKing , You cut the pucks to 3/4" and said you would cut them down to 5/8" . But it Look like you Centered your Side Holes for 3/4" and NOT 5/8" . Did I miss something ? Keep Up the GREAT Job ... That Plastic They used is a Fanonic ( I know I spelled that wrong) Plastic .. That is what it looks like ..
smarter in a different way. you can strip down a 5 horse briggs in a couple hours. it would take me all day with several snapped bolts or stripped threads.
The angle is actually 60degrees, you measured the compliment, so 30+ 60= 90. The metal plate is 30, but the angle marked on the paper is 60 not 30. The third contact, helps to create a ionised zone that reduces the erosion of the primary and secondary contact points. "The teaser electrode is used to solve the problem of time lag when using pointed electrodes (versus a spherical electrode). Time lag results in inconsistent voltage to produce an arc (voltage tends to be higher or overshoot without the teaser). This third electrode is universal used when measuring arc voltage across pointed electrodes.
The teaser electrode is insulated from the other two electrodes and is typically set to 0.1 mm gap from the main electrode (5 mm gap). As voltage rises on the main electrode a tiny arc (invisible) travels to the teaser which produces ionization in the main spark plug gap which helps set off the main arc.
Without the third electrode you have no method of comparing your results with book values since the spark voltage will be different and variable. I would add that I believe that the 0.1 mm gap distance has to be accurately set on all electrodes in order to get even sparking across leads.
A properly designed magneto tester with a properly operating magneto should produce such even sparks that the sound of the sparks is as regular as music. You should be able to detect a bad magneto from across the room with your back turned to the tester just from the sound of the arching. "
Nice build, I use a less expensive version that has voice feed back, it's called a brother in law! If he whimpers, the spark is poor, swears then it's good. Only get to use it a few times a year till he wises up to it!
👍👍🤣
Thank-you so much mate. I got it as you know and it's better than a bought one
You're welcome Mate!! Pass it down to the Boy when the time comes!!☺
will do mate
Pretty fair job ROADKING you'll be kept on! Thanks for the idea and 'plans', there's something else I can make.
I had one of those spark testers, but of course, it 'grew feet' and ran away too, like a lot of my service tools from my 'shop days'.
Sept. 5, 2018 I have a Comment below, from June, about contacting Briggs regarding the 2nd, 30-degree post. They told me it keeps the spark straighter.
I recently got a book from the library, "Small Engine Technology, 2nd Edition," by William A. Schuster, copyright 1999, with excerpts from the 1st edition, copyright 1993. He states, "The extra point on the tester compensates for the ionization of the air that occurs at the tester point area when a series of sparks jump the gap . . . . It keeps the spark jumping straight and the tester accurate." It goes on to say, "The opening is covered by a transparent plastic on both sides to increase the accuracy."
The two testers he mentions are this one, #19051 and the current, small plastic one, #19368.
Good research Chris B!!☺
Thanks man. Between this video and the comments I got all the information I need to make one.
It turned out really nice, Roadking. I was thinking I could make one with black ABS pipe, not expecting it to last as long as the one you made, of course. Thanks, Bud!!
Thanks Aaron!! I'm sure that would work fine, and out last you!!☺
That’s a great tool to check for spark. Nice build
Thanks alot Lloyd!!☺
Thanks for sharing the link in a reply comment on this excellent DIY project.
Thanks for asking for it, I enjoy bringing the good ones outta the archives!☺
Lucky Gaz. A forever tool. But really, anything out of RK Machine Shop is worth treasuring. Well done mate.
Thanks Bud!!☺
My guess would be, the second stud could be for 2 cylinder applications.
FireAndGasoline good point.
Then what do I do when I need to check spark in a V8 ??? Just kidding,...!!!
Different plug boot connectors .
Thats what I think
You are literally the only TH-camr that makes a video that I’ll watch all the way through!
Thanks alot Zack!! We really appreciate it!!☺
Oil your lathe back gears. Use a hole saw to save plugs for future projects .CDI. ( capacitor discharge ignition ) may burn out without the third point . GREAT VIDEO !
I purchased one from a place you suggested. I used it 4 times and the end. Thanks for this video really appreciate it. Cheers from nz.
My grandpa used to make these all the time and his never had that 3rd bolt. I will still make one from time to time and don't include it. I've always wondered why it was there on the store bought ones.
I liked how you used your drill press to get your threads started nice and straight.....I'm old but still soaking it in!
That's cool Capt!!☺
You mean they don't just put their tongue on the wire? Pfft, kids these days eh? :P
twocvbloke I remember jamming a screwdriver in the spark caps on the old motorbike to see if they were live. Or a mate holding it n asking you to kick it slow n then kicking the shit out of it n watching him fry. Ha Ha, good times
Nice Job . I have one of the old originals . Came from My Small Engine Tech Teacher many moons ago .I think I'll make one next winter when I'm stuck inside the shop
Thanks Bud!! Yeah the original ones come with alotta memories!!☺
Pretty cool piece of equipment. Well done, EJ!
Thank you George!!☺
It amazes me what can be made at home.
Thanks Karen!!☺
I’ll be interested to see if you get a definitive answer regarding the 30 degree contact point. Another interesting video. Thanks.
Thanks Bud!!☺
You couldn't make that flap again in a thousand years. :) That was a very worth while project. You've made him very happy I'm sure.
Thanks alot Wyatt!!☺
He sure did Wyatt. Roadking is a good friend
What a great project and you end up with a very helpful tool. Nice job RK.
Thanks alot Carl!!☺
All you need is a peice of wood and screws. I have made many of em and they work just fine.
You don't even need that, just hold the end of the spark plug wire!!☺
Would you make me one of those? I'll pay you for it!Looks better than the original one from
Briggs & Stratton
Making the pointed ends was a good method for some transfer points, or whatever you call them? The points looked to be dead nuts on center. A few times, making a cover, or something like that I needed a quick accurate way of lining up some bolt holes and that would work great I would think? My spark tester sucks compared to that one. It’s just an old plug with a ground clamp hose clamped to the threads of the plug. Anyway, another great vid Roadking!
Thanks Jim!!☺
Very nice buddy boy
Thanks Fella!!☺
The third pin is static and isn't adjustable. Its for checking magnetos. If you don't know, it isn't good to fire a mag with out a spark plug hooked up or youll fry the coils inside the mag. That's where the third pin comes in. It is already set to its maximum and isn't adjustable. You trip the mag and it'll fire on that pin. Its just giving the spark some place to travel to.
Looks as good as a an original !!! I was taught what the extra 30 degree bolt is for.... but have forgotten what it does
Thanks Bud!! I think I use to know what it was for also!!☺
I’ve never seen a tap used with a drill press like that. Looks pretty handy!
Looks like the spark tester was made of Bakalite .
I still have some from my Uncle's shop .
The 30 degree angled pointy thing: I had emailed B&S about that after I bought my newer, plastic spark tester. They said that having it there keeps the spark a little "straighter," so it's not going all over the place between the gap, like a little bolt of lightning. Whether that's true/correct or not, I couldn't tell you. The spark is supposed to find the path of least resistance, through the air gap, to ground - allegedly this second point helps with that???
awesome build big buddy . very cool and i know big gaz will love it . god bless ya
Thanks Lil Buddy!!☺
Great Job Roadie!! If you feel so inclined...I'd be honored to sport one of these in my shop. I never ask, but this is just too cool to not at least see if you would be willing to knock one out for ole Zippy~
Hey Zip!! Sorry for the delayed response, just got back from a week at Coolsprings engine Show!! We'll definitely make you one, just give me a few minutes!! We're pretty busy with the shows right now, but we'll definitely fit you in!!☺
TIP.
Watch the video 3 more times to see RK making identical testers for Mike and Little Dirtbike.
so where can i buy the original one from briggs & stratton how much you think it will cost? m very interest
I say the smaller one is used for check the spark on string trimmers because the coil wire isn't long enough for the other one.
Very nice job remaking them :)
Thanks Joe!!☺
That was great RoadKing. Jeep the videos coming Buddy.
All my best.
Bobby
Thanks alot Bobby!!☺
The short bolt is to clip the plug wire to, the long one is for the user to hold onto LOL
Looks like a NOS Briggs part!!
Thanks Bud!!☺
Is it to test a duel wire coil ? Maybe
Wow, that turned out really well. Yeah, it looks very much like the original. I thought an earthquake was kicking off when the wrench fell :D
Thanks Mate!!☺
I understand the two screws, but what does the third one that's at an angle do?
Great project. I may just make one tonight.
Thanks Bud!!☺
Haha. 13 min 56 sec. Made me laugh out loud!!!!
I made my own out of a peices of 2inch pvc pipe tow screws couple of wires and clips just had to adjust the screws so far apart to see the spark
I have one of those with the glass windows..very cool!,
Great of ya to make that for your bro in Australia.
Thanks Bud!! He's a good Bloke!!☺
Where did you get that style alligator clip ? All I've seen lately at TSC & the home centers are the long narrow type.
Try Mueller no 27 on Ebay!!☺
Thanks !
I just got a vintage tester on eBay like yours but it’s got the glass on the side,not as old ,and I will keep looking for the same part # 19058 the one I have is 19368 I love the one you just made , it came out great Don’t need just like , keep it fun
That's cool!! The old one's do show up once in a while!!☺
Very cool Roadking ! Are they headlight bucket bolts you used ? Cheers mate !
Yeah Buddy!! ☺
I too am wondering about the third bolt. Pictures often show insulation on most of the 3rd. Maybe Road King can try it with and without the 3rd to see if it functions differently
I've tried that and it works the same!!☺
Which begs the question why is it there ?
Dan Harold To test magnetos.
Start manufacturing these! I'll take one.
Good idea Mate. Going to make one of those, new demo for the Mystery Engine. Which btw is a big hit. Soon as I pulled up last Saturday 'Let's see the engine'. Nice to do something right for once eh!
Good work👍🇺🇸
Thanks Bud!!☺
very nice man
I think it’s for a shorter plug wire or different style boots maybe
They used to use buttons, put a wire through the hole of a button and twist it and do the same with the other hole so you have two wires connected to the button.Connect one to the spark plug and one to the lead.You should be able to see the spark jump between the two wires across the button.
YaY! I love making stuff!
Huh, when I saw the title I was thinking Delrin would be a great material for it, how about that? Great reproduction!
Thanks Bud!!☺
I could make one out of a hockey puck!!!!! Well not really.
Nice work RK mate..;-)
Thanks Luke!!☺
As good as the Briggs version. Great job.
Thanks Bud!!☺
You should really relocate your power switch to the front side so you're not reaching across to your work
the angle drawn is 60 degrees from the vertical or 30 degrees from the horizontal
Awesome work mate, nice and neat! Just subscribed to Big Gaz, im also from Australia :)
Thanks alot Mate!!☺
awesome King !
Thanks Mate!!☺
Looks like abs or pvc pipe could also work. Wouldnt be as thick, though.
The two different lenth posts allow you to test the strenght of the coil, i.e. weak or strong spark.
The points of those two rods meet at the dead center of the circle the Third with the clip is adjusted for spark gap
This is just a guess for the third electrode.
Imagine you want to test the gap on a plug in a car engine where it's a pain to get the plug out. You could put the coil wire on one electrode, the wire to the plug on angled electrode that touches, and then you could attach the ground clamp.
You would then adjust the gap in your test device smaller and smaller, and when the gap is a hair smaller in your test device than the gap in the plug, it will start jumping in your test device rather than your plug. Then you know the gap of the plug without having to remove it!
clever idea
tiger12506 wow. Yes
The purpose of having so much adjustability in a spark tester is to simulate the environment the spark plug is in while the cylinder is under compression. The compressed air makes it much harder for the electrons to jump the gap on the plug. Since atmospheric air pressure doesnt have that effect you compensate by increasing the gap on the tester. A .030” gap under compression has similar resistance to a 1/4” gap under atmospheric pressure. Those numbers arent exact by any means, just using them as an example.
You might be on the right track, though. It could be something used to check spark plug wear. Back in those days they didnt have platinum tipped plugs, so they wore down pretty consistently. You could tell how much wear the plug has by the amount of gap it takes to get the spark to bypass the spark plug and travel through the tester instead.
And I say Brilliant!
Hey roadking, Loving the recent regular how-to videos as well as the usual big projects. Have you thought about having some roadking stickers made up to sell? I would certainly buy one!
PM me your address Bud, we'll send you one!!☺
Hey Ron, check your "sent messages" we responded to your PM!!☺
Well I know what to make tomorrow
Looks Factory, Briggs and RoadKIng
I have 2 of the old original ones. One I couldn't find so I ordered another one.. Both I can't find now so I had to order a Oregon In line tester Oregon 42-031 which is one of the best in my opinion.... No taking the plug out to test the coil.....
I don't know the terminology for the extra bolt, but it has something do do with induction or field area..... Like I said I'm not sure...........
In Fact Zippo makes the homemade in line testers from a old plug wire and a phillips bit.... Did you see that video he made ??
Great video Mon Ami Plus Tard.........
THANKS RK
(21:42) I had to go back and carefully stop the video to see it but the spark jumped from the UN-connected screw to ground not from the screw with the plug wire. Any ideas there? (or maybe I'm seeing things). Might be more to the purpose for that screw than one thinks.
I seen that as well not shore why myself
Yeah the spark was jumping through the other bolt, it happens when you have a really strong spark!! No worries, as long as you're getting a spark, that's all that matters!!☺
Very good idea and great craftsmanship but a small hose clamp marrying an old spark plug to a crocodile clamp as served me well for many many years. Not very professional looking but form before fashion. :-)
Thanks Bud!! Yeah we made one like that when we were a Kid!! I doubt that would have gotten over 4000 views though!!☺
baby lathe???? have you seen the harbor freight one????? nicely done
Thanks Bud!! Yeah they are tiny!!☺
can i get workmans comp
my guess, the second screw is to allow a multimeter or something to display the intensity of the spark produced
You should make and sell kits
Question for you RoadKing , You cut the pucks to 3/4" and said you would cut them down to 5/8" . But it Look like you Centered your Side Holes for 3/4" and NOT 5/8" . Did I miss something ? Keep Up the GREAT Job ... That Plastic They used is a Fanonic ( I know I spelled that wrong) Plastic .. That is what it looks like ..
Thanks Bud!! I thought I mentioned that it cleaned up well at 3/4, so I was gonna leave it at that!! No worries!!☺
It's pronounced uh-sea-tul. Sweet videos though. Love them!
Thanks Bud!! Now if only I could remember that!!☺
You should make a few to sell/ give away to subscribers
Great job buddy !
You sending me one ? 😊
We'll see Mate!!☺
YEAH Buddy !!!
put a bug in there and hear it go pop if good spark
It seems odd but if you watch the video of it sparking, the spark is going to the angled bolt.
Im ok dont worry bout me I stand back far enough.
I take one lol
That had to stink cutting that
Yeah Buddy!! It did have a peculiar smell but not too bad!!☺
805ROADKING you could sell those
4:29 no way is that 30 degrees. the angle that you have measured is 60 degrees and it is 30 degrees from the horizontal
I just wanted to see if you were paying attention Oscar!! I know you're much smarter than I am and would catch it!!☺
smarter in a different way. you can strip down a 5 horse briggs in a couple hours. it would take me all day with several snapped bolts or stripped threads.
First!!!
Kate 20_ Make sure to put this on your resume under personal accomplishments!!!
Fifth!.!!