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Louis, why not using a Weller Soldering station; the tips are temperature controlled have a look here www.weller-tools.com/professional/USA/us/Home/Soldering+Equipment/WT+soldering+and+rework
requesting review of the station "Hakko made in the basement" by Dave in the style of Louis "Let's look at this piece of crap. Unscrew, you little piece of shit. So then what the incomprehensible contraption. This piece is not needed at all (part of the construction arm of leaves in which the back). Hmm here goes harness ... and it prevents us from . (Dave rests one foot in the device and pulls the harness with the words *** ** ***** *** ces) "
time to relax my stress and melt away that tension by watching some guy deal with hardware PS your videos are entertaining please dont stop making them
That mesh is the way, i have a weller for 30 odd years, the tips stopped adapting tin. That mesh thing cleaned my tips up perfectly, saved me 50 bucks.
I'm a huge fan of the Hakko 936 and have owned 5 of them. All of which were run from opening to closing, 6 days a week for years without a single failure. On a side note: we once got a call from Hakko (I think as a response to an email I sent for some reason); they claimed the brand name rhymes with "taco", rather than "backhoe". I'm still unsure if that's true.
"made in singapore" BS... its probably assembled in singapore, as in most of the parts are already made in china. all the treatment it gets in singapore was, attaching the switch and cord, and placing the components and the electronics in the case, attaching stickers... and pack it in the box with the other stuff. this is how many chinese owned company mark up their prices.. as a singapore citizen and that work in the manufacturing in the a couple years between education/conscription, i seen these kind of stuff, and i realised this is so wrong. usually the company that does these stuff is a very obscure and they set insane production targets.. and pays minimum wage. and they find issues with the workers. and i have the inkling that they are also linked to shady groups
They do it not to make more profit but as a semi-legal way of getting their millions if not billions of dollars out of china! (Yes I know their money is the Wan but I do not know how to convert dollars to Wan Values!)
If you didn't know. The standards are if you build the product in China to 90% and ship it to Singapore to finish it up... it will still count as a Made in Singapore product. It's really misleading but it is what it is.
What's going to be the standard size/shape tip for general use? The FX951 on Amazon that comes with one tip uses a D16, but the bundle that comes with 5 tips comes with D08, D12, D24, D32 and D52. I believe I read that the FX888D uses a D16 by default. I think my old workplace used a D24 for soldering 22AWG stranded wire together but I can't really remember if it was that big, or if it just looked that big while tinned. Or would you even recommend going up to a D32? Which two or three chisel tips would you recommend? I was thinking the D12, D16, and D24. I'll probably only play around with computer keyboard PCBs, RC cars, and electric guitar wiring. Do you think a D08 is too small? Thanks!
I use a copper pot scrubber cut in 1/4's and shoved in a tin cup as a tip cleaner. They are cheap and plentiful. Covered in flux paste sucks solder like a sponge. Send me the fake one. I'll rebuild it to proper standards with quality parts. I wouldn't pay for one to do this but as a let's see if it can be done is an interesting challenge. I'll snd it back and then compare it to the original. I have more then enough spare parts. I'd even add in the sleep function.
Reminds me of an AvE boltr. haven't watched far enough but if you took both apart I'm sure that the real one is made with a better plastic, maybe glass fiber reinforced too. The fake is probably made of abs plastic.
David Garrison I was waiting for him to melt the housing with the top and explain exactly what kind of plastic it was. But I forgot it want an AvE vijeo.
Immediately when you set the 2 next to each-other, aside from cosmetic wear, you can see that yours has a dark bezel around where the soldering iron plugs into the front while the "knock-off" doesn't have the bezel, or it isn't as thick as yours. The LCD panel is a different color. Above the iron plug, and under the text just above the plug, yours has what looks like an air-vent while the other doesn't - although looking further they may both have it but your air-vent gap is larger than the other. The switch on top is reversed from yours. Without looking at the cosmetic wear, the colors are much more vivid / deeper on the knock-off. The knock-off seam at the top appears to have a stress mark running along the top while yours doesn't. The seam around the yellow front portion is more pronounced in the knock off versus yours - ie the color is much darker and the change in texture is much wider than yours. The font is different from yours and character spacing is different. The button spacing on the knock-off appears to be slightly wider on the knock-off but that may be my monitor / color issue. The LED bezel is much longer on the bottom on the knock-off than yours, and it has a softer curvature where it terminates when meeting the front-face. The sides are also not as wide as yours but it may be a camera trick. and the plugoral-hood has a a curve to it on the original and it straight across on the knockoff. I still haven't seen the air-vents on the side, the rear of both, the bottom, etc.. but from a first glance, those are the changes I observed.
Cant believe there were no immature comments in this video, literally the funniest shit all the other videos, great video nonetheless. Been learning alot.
I'm very much a hobby solderer and tried many cheap to mid-range irons but ended up sticking with this $5 60w(Actually 40w) adjustable iron that does adjust from 15w-40w and takes 900M tips so I'm more than happy.
Years ago, I had a Hakko red dot rifle scope that I impulse bought having never heard of the company. It was a nearly identical clone of a super popular and super expensive aimpoint called the " tac point blue ring", and it was absolutely awesome. I unfortunately sold it in a package deal with a rifle, and since then have had the opportunity to use the original Aimpoint device, and without question the Hakko was better. Shoulda never let it go, because now I can't find one for sale anywhere.
I have a Metcal MX-PS5200 dual station that is pretty good. It has both sponges and brass brillo pads for tip cleaning. Heating is via induction (RF coils in the tips themselves). There is very little thermal mass in the small tips, and they come up to temperature in less than 5 seconds. The bit flat blade tips take about 10 seconds. When you put a handle in the base, it goes to "sleep" right away, keeping the tip just warm enough to heat quickly when you remove it. It saves the tip from corroding when the iron is on but not in use. Detection is magnetic rather than gravity powered like the Hakko. The Metcal isn't perfect; you can't adjust the tip temperature, for example. And I had a cable go bad on me--replacing it cost over $100. Hard to say if that is a common problem, but I've only heard of it happening to me. You have to shut the iron all the way off to change a tip, otherwise it gets confused. But powering back up is pretty quick, so that's not a big hit. You can buy it through Louis' Amazon link to put some scratch in his pocket.
Louis you have probably answered this question 100x before and if so please direct me to the vid you talk about it. What blend of solder do you use? 63/37, 60/40, or lead free? The reason I ask is because if you are using leaded with temp over 800 you can atomize lead and breath it in.
The downside of these "fake" models is that they try to fake something they are not. This looks like a pretty decent soldering station for beginners and if they had just branded it as an original device and the price is right, I'd love to have one to teach kids how to solder. It has much of the flexibility of the expensive equipment but it lacks the polishing that pro's want. There's definitely a market for this stuff if the price is right without pretending to be an expensive high end brand.
I have one of these but without the fake hakko branding. It does show current temp, you were just in the temp setting mode. I don't unscrew the rubber piece off the iron, just turn it off and pull it out with that little silicon pad. Mine only came with the t12-k tip unfortunately. As a beginner it works a lot better than they crap ones I found locally. The holder base is really annoying though. I wish they had put a bit more effort in it. The key looks like it fit decently snug in yours while mine is super loose and falls out way too easy.
i searched for this and it cost 36$ pretty good considering the price, i'd just take my time to clean up their soldering if i really went to buy that, also, another commenter said that it'd show the temperature if you remove the key
I got lucky with my cheap ebay station. It's a Maxtra 952 soldering/heat gun combo. Also came with a shitty sponge but i purchased one of those brillow pad cleaner thing as well. So far no complaints. 2 years and it's still running strong.
It's painfull to watch someone trying so hard to bash the clone he didnt even think clearly. the original works the same when you leave the key plugged
i like to use the sponge that came with my fx888 along with the metal mesh. i find the the mesh will take away large beads of solder, while with the sponge, you roll and pull away and it cleans off all the tiny left over bits of the sponge. it leaves me with a completely bare tip.
Looking at the quality of the soldering done to construct a knock-off soldering iron LOL. Oh and BTW, the shorted terminals and globs of solder everywhere were really horrifying. Imagine if it shorted during use or even worse shorted at night randomly.
I recently got a Katsu station via ebay auction, and the iron goes to sleep after 10 mins in its stand, however the stand does not have a sensor cord. How would this work? Magnets?
If you have ever built one of those oscilloscope boards this looks just like it, all the parts are numbered and so is the board. It is like paint by number.
I purchased a $50 Chinese rework Station and it works amazingly. Super impressed with it. This one here looks even cheaper and worse than the one I have though, what did it cost?
Trim the collar on the HACK iron so it drops into the handle fully.... But carefull applying pressure when soldering since the iron has that gloss finish..... Probably scratching it with a 80 grit sandpaper will take care of slippery glossy iron finish
That cheap soldering station was safe, it was all low voltage after the isolation transformer. Pretty solder joints do not make a reliable device, its quality parts/design,.
Bad solder joints can cause various trouble. A dry solder joint can cause a loose connection. A blob that comes loose can short two connections. Example: If for some reason the control circuitry is missing or misreading the input from the temp sensor because of a fault like that, it could turn the heating element permanently on, which might cause a fire after a few minutes. It's a fallacy that just because something is low voltage, it must be safe. All that means is that you won't get electrocuted. There may still be a fire hazard. That said, I don't think anything in that soldering station was likely to cause that kind of problem.
That solder just looks like it was jizzed all over it by a molten metal monkey. Some points with blobs were half forgivable, but solder bridging over traces, ehhhh.
Would the loom above the soldering iron stand slide out and run through the opposite way? Seems that would be safer and allow easier removal and hold the iron in better... Could always be as a emergency backup or someone's Christmas gift.
Louis, which of your Hakko tips did you use to do the drag soldering, the tip you claimed was your regular tip, the one you finally used after the T12-BC2? Thanks. I purchased my FX-951-66 in November of 2012 from the very same Amazon webpage you provide the link to; it is definitely the real deal. That being stated, I wonder how many folks realize they had been scammed after viewing this video. Finally, some time ago, a doofus--that would be me---managed to burn the side of my beautiful blue station.
Honestly though for the price of around 70 usd shipped. It's really not that bad. Considering the real deal is $250. What more do you really pay for with 250. The quality control is a bit higher but I think most companies that sell trade tools just overcharge because they can.
The best lead-trimming cutters I have found: Lindstrom Rx 8132. I got some on clearance from Techni-Tool. I wish I had bought more than one pair, 'cause they're expensive suckers. But they're really, really good.
I've watched your videos for a long time, and I find them extremely interesting and way more useful than I expected when I originally subscribed. What kind of certifications/degrees have you acquired? Rather, if someone wanted to learn what you know, how would one go about that?
You should be a spokesman and / endorser for Amtech and Hakko.. products I'm going to purchase an atten hot air station from your webstore and what happened to the angeled nozzles you said they were making for you? In a previous video.... just lacking solder braid in your webstore
I am one of those people who did not get plunger or needle, been using tweezers to distribute flux-haha. I will buy more flux when you have the plunger and needle. Let us know please and thank you.
i have an fx-888, and the knock off version as back up, it works well the iron handle is crap so i use originals, but if you do this open the knock off and make sure the plug is wired the same way.
24:23 "But then how would we find out if it works?" Simple: measure the resistance of both the heating element and the thermistor or thermocouple or whatever is doing the heat sensing. If they match your original iron, you should be safe. If not, best not try it. It might either send too much current through the heating element, or the temperature may read a lot lower than what it acutally is, so it won't shut off the iron until it's way too hot.
actually putting on no pad on a side of a board sosn't save any mony at all in the production of the pcb becaause you just etch that place away so you can also make a trace as wide as you want and it dosn't add any cost
Morse coded us "SOS" when demonstrating the auto sleep function. Do you need help Louis? Are you being held against your will? Blink three times at the start of your next stream for yes
I know this video is old as f*ck but, I want you to get some good cutters. Get with the best and buy either Erem or Lindström cutters. A good set would be Erem 622N, or Lindström 8142, Swiss are lifetime and precision tools. I have both. You owe it yourself Louis, you are a great tech kid, trust on me on this... :-D
I've used a sponge for decades. If it doesn't clean your tip and leaves it wet, you are REALLY doing it wrong. I always add some solder before putting the iron back, that protects the iron plating from oxidizing. It MUST be a cellulose sponge, plastic sponges will melt and burn onto the tip. You should NOT hear hissing, if you do, you are wiping way too slowly. I wipe quickly enough that I could wipe it on my palm at that speed and not be burnt. I also have brass wool but only need to use it once in a while. I agree about conical tips, they are evil... no real surface area to transfer heat. Lead sucks for heat transfer, so simply drowning it in solder won't replace a tip with a flat on it.
It's probably using Ni200 or a similar wire inside the heater. With wires such as this, only 2 leads would be needed as there is a chart plotting the resistance value of that wire at a specific temperature.
Thank you to everyone who made a purchase on eBay via our affiliate link at rossmanngroup.com/ebay for helping support this type of content. Your viewership is appreciated and as always, I hope you learned something!
Uh, if we do that, does it tell you the stupid shit we're buying so you can laugh at it?
S*pore = Shit pore.
Louis, why not using a Weller Soldering station; the tips are temperature controlled have a look here www.weller-tools.com/professional/USA/us/Home/Soldering+Equipment/WT+soldering+and+rework
Free FreeBSD
I do have a Weller since 1976 so it's 42 y old and still working great!
I wonder if this is the kind of quality hardware some franchises are using to put other people's stuff through the wringer...
40:00 Your Australian accent is almost as bad as my American.
I thought your accent was from "Hill Valley" :)
what is your opinion for this station after viewing the video?
EEVblog I think Dave should consider doing a MacBook teardown with an American accent.
that would be hillarious.
This is the most meta-geek funny thing I've witnessed online in months, thanks!
*First thing after tearing up the soldering station*
"Hey Jason come here this transformer smells amazing!"
First teardown I've seen where that has been said "It's got a board with some shit on it"
Awesome
Xnoob 2017 If anyone reacts the same it means they are likely qualified to repair macs.
That EEVblog impression had me loling
requesting review of the station "Hakko made in the basement" by Dave in the style of Louis
"Let's look at this piece of crap. Unscrew, you little piece of shit. So then what the incomprehensible contraption. This piece is not needed at all (part of the construction arm of leaves in which the back). Hmm here goes harness ... and it prevents us from . (Dave rests one foot in the device and pulls the harness with the words *** ** ***** *** ces) "
It's a Fakko.
Not up to Romulan standards
thats a porn site
@@giannebaron6139 No that's a Fakku.
They suck tho...kinda.
yeah they do suck, back when it was free, but now you need a subscription or soem shit
@@giannebaron6139 Isn't sucking the point?
time to relax my stress and melt away that tension by watching some guy deal with hardware
PS your videos are entertaining please dont stop making them
That mesh is the way, i have a weller for 30 odd years, the tips stopped adapting tin. That mesh thing cleaned my tips up perfectly, saved me 50 bucks.
"this is real!"
Narrator: "he would later find out that it's not real"
Your EEV impersonation was amazing.
your evblog impersonation was on point
I'm a huge fan of the Hakko 936 and have owned 5 of them. All of which were run from opening to closing, 6 days a week for years without a single failure. On a side note: we once got a call from Hakko (I think as a response to an email I sent for some reason); they claimed the brand name rhymes with "taco", rather than "backhoe". I'm still unsure if that's true.
"made in singapore" BS...
its probably assembled in singapore, as in most of the parts are already made in china.
all the treatment it gets in singapore was,
attaching the switch and cord,
and placing the components and the electronics in the case,
attaching stickers... and pack it in the box with the other stuff.
this is how many chinese owned company mark up their prices..
as a singapore citizen and that work in the manufacturing in the a couple years between education/conscription,
i seen these kind of stuff, and i realised this is so wrong. usually the company that does these stuff is a very obscure and they set insane production targets.. and pays minimum wage. and they find issues with the workers.
and i have the inkling that they are also linked to shady groups
They do it not to make more profit but as a semi-legal way of getting their millions if not billions of dollars out of china! (Yes I know their money is the Wan but I do not know how to convert dollars to Wan Values!)
If you didn't know. The standards are if you build the product in China to 90% and ship it to Singapore to finish it up... it will still count as a Made in Singapore product. It's really misleading but it is what it is.
"takes a lot of pressure to push and pull out" - Louis Rossmann 2016.
"Kay, we've got some semen on the board....."
"My tip is way too big ... it's huge".
No children.
"If you're doing this 500-1000 times a day, this probably may get to be a pain in the ass..."😂
that dave jones impression was gloriously spot on!
Now if you and EEVblog can work an AvE "scooch" or camera focus reference in, the electronic geek trifecta can be complete .
I am new to soldering, I had about 3 other station none of them we're good but this 60$ thing doing a great job so far ( at least for 3 months now )
What's going to be the standard size/shape tip for general use? The FX951 on Amazon that comes with one tip uses a D16, but the bundle that comes with 5 tips comes with D08, D12, D24, D32 and D52. I believe I read that the FX888D uses a D16 by default.
I think my old workplace used a D24 for soldering 22AWG stranded wire together but I can't really remember if it was that big, or if it just looked that big while tinned. Or would you even recommend going up to a D32?
Which two or three chisel tips would you recommend? I was thinking the D12, D16, and D24. I'll probably only play around with computer keyboard PCBs, RC cars, and electric guitar wiring. Do you think a D08 is too small? Thanks!
EEVblog 39:50 best part of this video! :)
The Australian accent was a high point :-p
LOL that was great :D laughed my ass off
Ditto - I am still LMAO :')
he said 0.7 *velts* :D
If you want to see the realtime temperature you have to remove the key. Isnt it like that on the original Hakko? Anyways, great review.
I use a copper pot scrubber cut in 1/4's and shoved in a tin cup as a tip cleaner. They are cheap and plentiful. Covered in flux paste sucks solder like a sponge.
Send me the fake one. I'll rebuild it to proper standards with quality parts. I wouldn't pay for one to do this but as a let's see if it can be done is an interesting challenge. I'll snd it back and then compare it to the original. I have more then enough spare parts. I'd even add in the sleep function.
Reminds me of an AvE boltr. haven't watched far enough but if you took both apart I'm sure that the real one is made with a better plastic, maybe glass fiber reinforced too. The fake is probably made of abs plastic.
David Garrison I was waiting for him to melt the housing with the top and explain exactly what kind of plastic it was. But I forgot it want an AvE vijeo.
Immediately when you set the 2 next to each-other, aside from cosmetic wear, you can see that yours has a dark bezel around where the soldering iron plugs into the front while the "knock-off" doesn't have the bezel, or it isn't as thick as yours. The LCD panel is a different color. Above the iron plug, and under the text just above the plug, yours has what looks like an air-vent while the other doesn't - although looking further they may both have it but your air-vent gap is larger than the other. The switch on top is reversed from yours. Without looking at the cosmetic wear, the colors are much more vivid / deeper on the knock-off. The knock-off seam at the top appears to have a stress mark running along the top while yours doesn't. The seam around the yellow front portion is more pronounced in the knock off versus yours - ie the color is much darker and the change in texture is much wider than yours. The font is different from yours and character spacing is different. The button spacing on the knock-off appears to be slightly wider on the knock-off but that may be my monitor / color issue. The LED bezel is much longer on the bottom on the knock-off than yours, and it has a softer curvature where it terminates when meeting the front-face. The sides are also not as wide as yours but it may be a camera trick. and the plugoral-hood has a a curve to it on the original and it straight across on the knockoff. I still haven't seen the air-vents on the side, the rear of both, the bottom, etc.. but from a first glance, those are the changes I observed.
Cant believe there were no immature comments in this video, literally the funniest shit all the other videos, great video nonetheless. Been learning alot.
I'm very much a hobby solderer and tried many cheap to mid-range irons but ended up sticking with this $5 60w(Actually 40w) adjustable iron that does adjust from 15w-40w and takes 900M tips so I'm more than happy.
"What do you pay the people that put this together?"
Probably a dollar for a day's work.
:(
Luna I guess a bowl of rice...
I bought a 936 clone on Ebay, and it works amazingly well, imo. no problems with it
Years ago, I had a Hakko red dot rifle scope that I impulse bought having never heard of the company. It was a nearly identical clone of a super popular and super expensive aimpoint called the " tac point blue ring", and it was absolutely awesome. I unfortunately sold it in a package deal with a rifle, and since then have had the opportunity to use the original Aimpoint device, and without question the Hakko was better. Shoulda never let it go, because now I can't find one for sale anywhere.
Immediate giveaways? The iron multi-pin socket. The UPC label at the bottom. The silk-screening. The quality of the soldering iron.
I have a Metcal MX-PS5200 dual station that is pretty good. It has both sponges and brass brillo pads for tip cleaning. Heating is via induction (RF coils in the tips themselves). There is very little thermal mass in the small tips, and they come up to temperature in less than 5 seconds. The bit flat blade tips take about 10 seconds. When you put a handle in the base, it goes to "sleep" right away, keeping the tip just warm enough to heat quickly when you remove it. It saves the tip from corroding when the iron is on but not in use. Detection is magnetic rather than gravity powered like the Hakko.
The Metcal isn't perfect; you can't adjust the tip temperature, for example. And I had a cable go bad on me--replacing it cost over $100. Hard to say if that is a common problem, but I've only heard of it happening to me. You have to shut the iron all the way off to change a tip, otherwise it gets confused. But powering back up is pretty quick, so that's not a big hit. You can buy it through Louis' Amazon link to put some scratch in his pocket.
4:10 that impression of Dave killed me :) in a good way
Hi, around 130 €, which is currently the best soldering station ?
15:45 Are you trying to tell us something Louis? Help is on the way buddy.
Louise on the fake hakko you just have to pull the tip with that black rubber thing you have under the tip holder (@36:41)
Louis you have probably answered this question 100x before and if so please direct me to the vid you talk about it. What blend of solder do you use? 63/37, 60/40, or lead free? The reason I ask is because if you are using leaded with temp over 800 you can atomize lead and breath it in.
The downside of these "fake" models is that they try to fake something they are not. This looks like a pretty decent soldering station for beginners and if they had just branded it as an original device and the price is right, I'd love to have one to teach kids how to solder.
It has much of the flexibility of the expensive equipment but it lacks the polishing that pro's want. There's definitely a market for this stuff if the price is right without pretending to be an expensive high end brand.
I have one of these but without the fake hakko branding. It does show current temp, you were just in the temp setting mode. I don't unscrew the rubber piece off the iron, just turn it off and pull it out with that little silicon pad. Mine only came with the t12-k tip unfortunately. As a beginner it works a lot better than they crap ones I found locally. The holder base is really annoying though. I wish they had put a bit more effort in it. The key looks like it fit decently snug in yours while mine is super loose and falls out way too easy.
i searched for this and it cost 36$ pretty good considering the price, i'd just take my time to clean up their soldering if i really went to buy that, also, another commenter said that it'd show the temperature if you remove the key
Hey Lewis, the boom you're using with the SM-4TP looks much better than the one that comes with it. What is it and where does it come from?
I got lucky with my cheap ebay station. It's a Maxtra 952 soldering/heat gun combo. Also came with a shitty sponge but i purchased one of those brillow pad cleaner thing as well. So far no complaints. 2 years and it's still running strong.
HypnicJerk the thermocouple is in series with the heater
Remove the key when done setting temp......... than the current temp setting will show.....
It's painfull to watch someone trying so hard to bash the clone he didnt even think clearly. the original works the same when you leave the key plugged
@@kabturek agree with you
your streams are calming to watch even though all i know how to do is build a computer
i like to use the sponge that came with my fx888 along with the metal mesh. i find the the mesh will take away large beads of solder, while with the sponge, you roll and pull away and it cleans off all the tiny left over bits of the sponge. it leaves me with a completely bare tip.
Looking at the quality of the soldering done to construct a knock-off soldering iron LOL.
Oh and BTW, the shorted terminals and globs of solder everywhere were really horrifying. Imagine if it shorted during use or even worse shorted at night randomly.
That's why you switch your power strip off when it's not in use... Literally anything can fail at any time.
I recently got a Katsu station via ebay auction, and the iron goes to sleep after 10 mins in its stand, however the stand does not have a sensor cord. How would this work? Magnets?
If you have ever built one of those oscilloscope boards this looks just like it, all the parts are numbered and so is the board. It is like paint by number.
10/10 for the camera work. It is so bad it is actually brilliant!!!
Louis, if you want to get rid of that station you know who to send it to. *winks furiously*
I purchased a $50 Chinese rework Station and it works amazingly. Super impressed with it. This one here looks even cheaper and worse than the one I have though, what did it cost?
Is it the Youyue 8586? I bought one and I'm impressed too.
It's the 862D+ couldn't ask for anything better
The 8586 is both rework and soldering station-does the 862D have both also?
Yes it has both
They are mostly the same. they plug in a different company and model but it's the same thing
Trim the collar on the HACK iron so it drops into the handle fully.... But carefull applying pressure when soldering since the iron has that gloss finish..... Probably scratching it with a 80 grit sandpaper will take care of slippery glossy iron finish
That cheap soldering station was safe, it was all low voltage after the isolation transformer.
Pretty solder joints do not make a reliable device, its quality parts/design,.
Bad solder joints can cause various trouble. A dry solder joint can cause a loose connection. A blob that comes loose can short two connections. Example: If for some reason the control circuitry is missing or misreading the input from the temp sensor because of a fault like that, it could turn the heating element permanently on, which might cause a fire after a few minutes. It's a fallacy that just because something is low voltage, it must be safe. All that means is that you won't get electrocuted. There may still be a fire hazard. That said, I don't think anything in that soldering station was likely to cause that kind of problem.
That solder just looks like it was jizzed all over it by a molten metal monkey. Some points with blobs were half forgivable, but solder bridging over traces, ehhhh.
In regards to current temperature display - did you try removing the key?
How does the real one compare if you tear it down?
Thanks for having done this. Answered a lot of questions that I really wanted answers to. Definitely sticking to the real deal!
Hey Louis any repairs lately? Kinda lagging it in videos
Would the loom above the soldering iron stand slide out and run through the opposite way? Seems that would be safer and allow easier removal and hold the iron in better... Could always be as a emergency backup or someone's Christmas gift.
You don't get the 995B cleaner free everywhere, i used to sell Hakko (directly imported from Japan) and my stations did not have that.
Louis, which of your Hakko tips did you use to do the drag soldering, the tip you claimed was your regular tip, the one you finally used after the T12-BC2? Thanks.
I purchased my FX-951-66 in November of 2012 from the very same Amazon webpage you provide the link to; it is definitely the real deal. That being stated, I wonder how many folks realize they had been scammed after viewing this video. Finally, some time ago, a doofus--that would be me---managed to burn the side of my beautiful blue station.
your strailian accent is perfect
Honestly though for the price of around 70 usd shipped. It's really not that bad. Considering the real deal is $250. What more do you really pay for with 250. The quality control is a bit higher but I think most companies that sell trade tools just overcharge because they can.
Jeff Cheng $250?
For only $150AUD I can get one new and its not fake!!!
"The quality control is a bit higher" hahaha there is no quality control if there are random blobs of solder on the PCB.
Not really related at all but I like the use of Cards over the older style Annotations!
The best lead-trimming cutters I have found: Lindstrom Rx 8132. I got some on clearance from Techni-Tool. I wish I had bought more than one pair, 'cause they're expensive suckers. But they're really, really good.
And bob's your uncle, we're in!
I've watched your videos for a long time, and I find them extremely interesting and way more useful than I expected when I originally subscribed. What kind of certifications/degrees have you acquired? Rather, if someone wanted to learn what you know, how would one go about that?
You should be a spokesman and / endorser for Amtech and Hakko.. products I'm going to purchase an atten hot air station from your webstore and what happened to the angeled nozzles you said they were making for you? In a previous video.... just lacking solder braid in your webstore
I am one of those people who did not get plunger or needle, been using tweezers to distribute flux-haha. I will buy more flux when you have the plunger and needle. Let us know please and thank you.
i have an fx-888, and the knock off version as back up, it works well the iron handle is crap so i use originals, but if you do this open the knock off and make sure the plug is wired the same way.
That HAKKO mesh stuff does really help.
"you couldn't afford a fucking vowel?"
that killed me
The induendo in this vid is off the scale. Love it 😂
Where do you buy those black disposable gloves?
Dude you sounded just like EEblog that was amazing
24:23 "But then how would we find out if it works?"
Simple: measure the resistance of both the heating element and the thermistor or thermocouple or whatever is doing the heat sensing. If they match your original iron, you should be safe. If not, best not try it. It might either send too much current through the heating element, or the temperature may read a lot lower than what it acutally is, so it won't shut off the iron until it's way too hot.
the lcd strobbing was pretty bad, yours was solid in camera
I use the fx-888d it comes with the wire cleaner
actually putting on no pad on a side of a board sosn't save any mony at all in the production of the pcb becaause you just etch that place away so you can also make a trace as wide as you want and it dosn't add any cost
Great review on the fake Hakko.
but.. does it have a fuse on the primary?
Louis you are really funny and make this stuff fun
what do you think of the hakko fx888d?
Now that is a HACK-O! Man, those "Whee"s always catch me off guard! XD Love it!
GREAT EEVBlog impression!!! Wahahahaha.... NAILED IT!
I have a knock-off station from Amazon. It is a Zeny 862D+., solder and hot air station. It is surprisingly good for $60.
he probably the only person that make an 1hr stream about soldering and no one will leave their seats.
Morse coded us "SOS" when demonstrating the auto sleep function. Do you need help Louis? Are you being held against your will? Blink three times at the start of your next stream for yes
41:17 There is no temperature feedback!
And I also see no primary side fuse, unless it's inside that IEC connector.
What's the working distance of your microscope or what do you recommend for a working distance?
mrsemifixit what ever works for you
Are you serious about those "safery concerns"? Will a solder blob realistically cause a fire?
Whats that flux stuff he uses in these vids? looks like real handy stuff to have around
Louis that’s a pretty good impression of Dave from eevblog :)
lol 37:00 not sure to tear it down in case you dosent remember how to reassemble .... you are RECORDING IT LOUIS !!! :D
Dosent?
wait you solder with like 600 °C?, i just do light stuff but 300-350 is more than enough... maybe i'm doing it wrong?
+Louis Rossmann Great videos, where do you get your solder paste and flux for a bargain?
Hi Louis, what is the part nr for the gloves you're wearing? Thanks Bart
Louis, I had no idea you were in Audio. I build and work on pro audio equipment! Luckily most of it is still through hole so the repairs are easy.
I know this video is old as f*ck but, I want you to get some good cutters. Get with the best and buy either Erem or Lindström cutters. A good set would be Erem 622N, or Lindström 8142, Swiss are lifetime and precision tools. I have both. You owe it yourself Louis, you are a great tech kid, trust on me on this... :-D
You should do a rant about conical tips.
I've used a sponge for decades. If it doesn't clean your tip and leaves it wet, you are REALLY doing it wrong. I always add some solder before putting the iron back, that protects the iron plating from oxidizing. It MUST be a cellulose sponge, plastic sponges will melt and burn onto the tip. You should NOT hear hissing, if you do, you are wiping way too slowly.
I wipe quickly enough that I could wipe it on my palm at that speed and not be burnt.
I also have brass wool but only need to use it once in a while.
I agree about conical tips, they are evil... no real surface area to transfer heat. Lead sucks for heat transfer, so simply drowning it in solder won't replace a tip with a flat on it.
Louis please test and review the KSGER T12
41:50 only two wires going into the iron port. no thermocouple? the whole temperature thing is a gimmick?
Funky Dunky the temperature's pre-calculated
It's probably using Ni200 or a similar wire inside the heater. With wires such as this, only 2 leads would be needed as there is a chart plotting the resistance value of that wire at a specific temperature.