Well I took out my AM B-25 and checked the nose wheel piece. It looks pretty sturdy to me. Secondly I can accept some of the minor fit issues. There is one point I have to make here: in 1995, when this kit was designed and conceived as a business project, we had 1) no internet; 2) no email; 3) limited access to resource material; limited communications with the manufacturers, ie it took weeks to effectuate changes in the molds, sprue design and instructions. So while I can appreciate the builder's difficulty, I think we all need to put them in full context. At the time the B-25 was launched by Accurate, our only source of accurate scale kits, with detail and full interiors, was Tamiya or Hasegawa. After Accurate, the gates of the dam were opened, and we got kits with recessed lines, fine details and full interiors. I respect the builder, and his experience, and his comments are most helpful. However, they must be reviewed in context. There is no perfect kit.
Great channel! Learn alot... Enjoy listening,as an amateur modeler! I had almost the same exact issues with the b-25j Mitchell from Revell. I really am having so much fun been trying to soak up as much information as I can. Thank you very much for your time!
Will, just watched most of this yesterday. As luck would have it got the deal of the day today. Picked in a thrift store Accurate Miniatures B-25 C/D. Kit in sealed bags. Also in the box - Eduard Big Ed interior / exterior set (BIG4862), Quickboost B-25 c/d gun barrels, Cutting Edge B-25 corrected cowlings, Verlinden 1183 engine set, Aeromaster Mitchell collection Pt III, plus another set of paint masks.. my price ...$4.50 CDN ...Salvation Army thrift store. WOW. Winter project. Glad I watched this series, I can look out for and correct the pitfalls you ran into before I get to them. May get some more “goodies” for this one. Keep up the great work. Love all your positive and negative comments on kits, materials and techniques. We do get accurate information on all sorts of things. I’m an old dog, and been doing this for a long time, but I ALWAYS learn something new. Sorry to be so long winded.
The SAC gears are OK for the thicker main gears. They allow fine one-or 2 movement adjustment, and won't bend otherwise unless you bend them multiple times. They are best for big nose weighted Monograms, which have overbuilt gears that are rigid enough in soft metal.
What amazes me is no matter how neglected and worn modelers depict the air frame, as in this build, the canopies are pristine, shiny and factory fresh. I guess canopies are the only exterior part of the plane that crews spent time on.
+Scale Modeling USA Any crew chief worth his salt would definitely do his utmost to keep the canopy as well maintained as possible, because for combat aircrew that could literally be the difference between life and death.
Shit yeah bro, that thing is pretty tight. I only wish I had a third of your skill at this point. It’s a tough trade, but you have become a solid craftsman and dare I say artist. Hope your trip to panama works out well, and keep up the solid work my brother .
The "Yellows" (Sandgelb, etc) with the "Greens" and/or "Olives" are what works for me- I find that "Whites" and/or "Grays" are nowhere near "warm" enough when you're messing with tonal values- The "Yellows" work with FIGURES quite well, too...
That how I make extra money. I have my clients get everything I need for the kit they cover everything I need .I am retired so I am able to work at least 12 to 14 hours a day on the kits and I enjoy every single minute of it .awesome work will
G'day Will, I was in touch with you a couple of years ago where you had put me onto Bondo glazing and spot putty - brilliant stuff. My adventures in fillers has been a particular area of interest and I've gone full circle in trying new things. I went down the UV cure filler road (Tamiya and Sujiborido), both of which are to me far too waxy and just don't stick reliably to plastic, no matter how carefully I prepare it (abrading & cleaning with solvent etc). Having just watched your Repsol Honda video I saw you used some 'acrylic powder' to reinforce the joint on some of the bodywork. This got me thinking, as you fixed it in place with CA glue ~ what if I tried using the acrylic fluid which is sold with this powder in fake ladies fingernail kits. Well the results and testing so far have been epic - I learned that the 'acrylic fluid' is a monomer of sorts, and when mixed with the powder it forms a polymer. Great thing is the result when set (about 3-5 mins) is insanely tenacious on styrene plastic (as it needs to be on human fingernail beds). Unlike CA it also remains just flexible enough to stay stuck to plastic even when the plastic is bent to the point of snapping. It is also just hard and crispy enough to be sanded and filed and feathers beautifully without lifting an edge. I found that the finished compound is easier to file and sand when more of the powder is mixed with the fluid initially, and is vice-versa harder/more crispy the more sparingly the powder is added. Great easy to see colours ~ I might use glitter powder on my next fill! This is obviously carefully developed chemistry which luckily is cheaply sold to a mass market ~ the chemical engineers obviously worked to get a set product that runs the balance between hard and flexible. In the fingernail industry (my girlfriend knows all about this) they apply a 'primer' which chemically sets up the fingernail bed for the acrylic to set. It does this by way of temporarily modifying the pH of the surface - amongst other wizardry! Nowadays in the nail industry there is regulation which ensures that only 'EMA' (Ethyl Methacrylate) products are used on humans, replacing 'old school' MMA (Methyl Methacrylate). Old MMA acrylic fluid was basically an acid etch, but people reported health effects etc, so the industry tweaked as required and now we have the standard stuff available at drug stores (cosmetics warehouses ie Priceline here in Australia). Anyhoo I thought you might be interested to hear of my experimentation, as it's really proved to be fantastic stuff especially when you want to work quickly and not wait for solvent based fillers to set - humidity here in Oz even in winter time regularly exceeds 70% daily. I'd LOVE if you were to do a Rubegoldberg video on this stuff..I think I'm like you in that I love experimenting with and learning new things, the hobby is a great mechanism that ties together so many varied interests. Cheers again mate, Paul
hahaha yes I believe it's that monomer that we all smell (and nearly die from) when we walk past nail salons in shopping malls. I don't know how those people can work there all day. I didn't really notice the smell because my hobby table setup has a Blueair 480i sat just in front on the floor and it does a good job of sucking up paint/glue fumes - it's my 'ignorance is bliss' magic box.
Another great project and I'm glad that you included the rear "wooden guns" in the tail cone on this one. I would like to ask for your forgiveness if I mention that on all B-25B's, the nose wheel hub was covered by a flat "dust" cover and this cover included all pertinent serial numbers, etc.
I looked at my photos of the planes practicing short field take-offs at Eglin and on the Hornet's deck to verify my information............most sane people wouldn't notice or care. I'm told that early version B-25s going to the PacificTheater had this cover but not on those going to the European Theater
Well............asking and showing interest is all I would require from YOU and the promise that you would only share what I send to Matt and no one else. Ebay is full of items that I've sent others with the same promise request. So please understand my position. Several are in my book, but I can make you copies and send them snail mail. May I take some liberties and send you others that I think you'll be interested in ? On a side note, I've been looking for a "home" for my Doolittle collection (almost 400 items) and I'm pretty sure that the USS Hornet Museum will be the final resting place...although naturally I have some personal reservations as this has been a 38 year labor of love having known almost 50 of the raiders.
Hi Will, enjoy and learn from your videos immensely! I do have one quick question. If you happen to see this, what did you use to finish the barrels of the top turret? The gunmetal color looks perfect! Thanks again for sharing all these videos. I know it adds more work to your efforts and I'm very grateful for your labors.
Will, I remember wen I did one monogran B-25 when I was kid, like 25 years ago, I had not used nose weight at all because the kit inclued one small 3 step stair under the boarding ladder that when glued together in the right position supported the rear and the plane looked nice and straight, I thought at the time it was super smart but I never saw any picture of that small stair in real life...
Question - was the lack of yellow on the propeller blades deliberate?🤔 Also, was weathering ( chipping) considered for the prop blades? No meant as criticism, but the airframe show rigorous weathering effects, but the propellers look rather pristine? ( new/ replacement prop assemblies?)😀
i thought i mentioned in the video that all the tokyo birds got new props in san diego before boarding the hornet according to doolittle's autobiography, but maybe i forgot. and no, they didn't have the tips painted.
will pattison Thank you for the information. I was not aware of background/intent of this early B-25 type build (i.e. build of a Doolittle Raider). Very nice build even if it took “extra innings”.👍 Have a happy and safe Holiday. 🎊🎆
"Commission-building"- Will is right- DON'T DO IT! You will NEVER even break even... I know; I've been there, too many times. THAT is why I build for MY OWN PLEASURE, ONLY...
Honestly surprised at the issues you had, but I'm glad to hear about them. I've been trying to get this B-25 B on ebay for a while, but they keep shooting up in price way more than I want to pay. Now I'll have to rethink this. I've built the SBD from Accurate Miniatures/Academy, and it was a wonderful kit. No issues at all. I guess they learned from the B-25???
Could be. But then I've never claimed to be more than a mediocre modeler! :-) Mainly I was thinking of the fit issues you've had with the B-25. I had to use very little putty on the SBD-3 I built. The cockpit was way over detailed with a lot of small pieces that just can't be seen, even with the canopy open, but I don't think that makes it mediocre. The clear parts fit fine. Now I'd been out of the hobby for a long time and this SBD was my first kit when I came back, so it could be I was easily impressed. In any case, when I found an AM SBD-5 on ebay for a good price I gladly bought it.
I have tried to find the “art tools” random pattern stencils you used on your B-25 and have had no luck. Nothing on their website, Amazon, or eBay. They are just what I need. Could you please give me a link to where I can find them. By the way Will, you are doing a great service for modelers like me. There is no one out there like you and I have learned much from your efforts. It does not go unnoticed.
Truly amazing weathering. I can see why you get asked for commissions... Even ignoring the cowlings and canopy (and the props!), it is a terrible kit, just for fit/assembly alone. That canopy top got me too, and it is horrendous... It does have VERY nice surface detail, but no one can appreciate what you accomplished without first being mauled trying to get it together. The one AM kit I did like was their very last one: The Vindicator... Overall, I liked the company and packaging more than the kits.
Bummer on all the problems with this kit. I've got an original AM, not re-boxing, B-25 C/D kit with a bunch of after market parts I've been itching to build. Another issue with this kit that's blatantly obvious is the incorrect engine cowlings. The opening in them is too small in diameter. I've got corrected cowlings for the kit but man, from watching this video and 1.0, the engine cowlings appear to be the least of my problems when I get started on this kit. Not even sure I will now. May just EBay it all.
Hi! Who would spend any amount of money on such a used up, dusty, dirty old aeroplane?... I bet she doesn't even fly anymore. ;-) Luckily she still has her machine guns to defend herself on the ground. But I would certainly watch this video again! That olive drab is stunning. No wonder it took you 161 hours... (Btw. thanks for the details about the Tungsten powder! Now I know what they are using it for.) Until next time, all the best!
Crappy kit or not, that turned out really great, Will. Those upper wing surfaces look well worn and the alteration in surface color and texture is very nice. I could go on, but it all looks very good.
Will, the main thing I admire you for is the realism-like approach to modelmaking and therefore justifying your weathering. You didnt do that in this video. Why? I cant find any justification for the marbeling effect. Dot get me wrong, the colour variation looks great but as a realism bitch as I am I always have to have a reason for any kind of weathering. Btw I love the salt effect.
well, thank you! i'm glad somebody gets me. lol as for this one, the reasons are all the same as the first one, but my techniques has - hopefully - become more refined.
Will, I can send you photos......or you can pull them from "doolittleraider.com" which contains many photos from my collection (webmaster is Todd Joyce, son of pilot Richard O. Joyce)......you decide. However, the resolution may be better from Todd's site.
Well I took out my AM B-25 and checked the nose wheel piece. It looks pretty sturdy to me. Secondly I can accept some of the minor fit issues. There is one point I have to make here: in 1995, when this kit was designed and conceived as a business project, we had 1) no internet; 2) no email; 3) limited access to resource material; limited communications with the manufacturers, ie it took weeks to effectuate changes in the molds, sprue design and instructions. So while I can appreciate the builder's difficulty, I think we all need to put them in full context. At the time the B-25 was launched by Accurate, our only source of accurate scale kits, with detail and full interiors, was Tamiya or Hasegawa. After Accurate, the gates of the dam were opened, and we got kits with recessed lines, fine details and full interiors. I respect the builder, and his experience, and his comments are most helpful. However, they must be reviewed in context. There is no perfect kit.
A true work of art...your videos have really helped me improve my skills, thank you.
This really is the best ‘48 Mitchell I’ve seen. Such an inspiration Will. It’s fabulous.
Great channel! Learn alot... Enjoy listening,as an amateur modeler! I had almost the same exact issues with the b-25j Mitchell from Revell. I really am having so much fun been trying to soak up as much information as I can. Thank you very much for your time!
Truly awesome craftsmanship. Thank you for sharing your expertise. In a word; WOW!
This model is wonderful reference, thankyou. Just picked up the 2022 revell boxing.
Will, just watched most of this yesterday. As luck would have it got the deal of the day today. Picked in a thrift store Accurate Miniatures B-25 C/D. Kit in sealed bags. Also in the box - Eduard Big Ed interior / exterior set (BIG4862), Quickboost B-25 c/d gun barrels, Cutting Edge B-25 corrected cowlings, Verlinden 1183 engine set, Aeromaster Mitchell collection Pt III, plus another set of paint masks.. my price ...$4.50 CDN ...Salvation Army thrift store. WOW. Winter project. Glad I watched this series, I can look out for and correct the pitfalls you ran into before I get to them. May get some more “goodies” for this one.
Keep up the great work. Love all your positive and negative comments on kits, materials and techniques. We do get accurate information on all sorts of things. I’m an old dog, and been doing this for a long time, but I ALWAYS learn something new.
Sorry to be so long winded.
The SAC gears are OK for the thicker main gears. They allow fine one-or 2 movement adjustment, and won't bend otherwise unless you bend them multiple times. They are best for big nose weighted Monograms, which have overbuilt gears that are rigid enough in soft metal.
Speachless as usual, thankyou for your time and endevour
What amazes me is no matter how neglected and worn modelers depict the air frame, as in this build, the canopies are pristine, shiny and factory fresh. I guess canopies are the only exterior part of the plane that crews spent time on.
a fair point but like most of us, i can't seem to bring myself to dirty up the windows.
+Scale Modeling USA Any crew chief worth his salt would definitely do his utmost to keep the canopy as well maintained as possible, because for combat aircrew that could literally be the difference between life and death.
Trying a reveal 1\48. Have assembled an airfix, and two Academy aircraft. Tamiya next.
I'm impressed. Nice work man. I loved the music choice. Cool stuff.
Shit yeah bro, that thing is pretty tight. I only wish I had a third of your skill at this point. It’s a tough trade, but you have become a solid craftsman and dare I say artist. Hope your trip to panama works out well, and keep up the solid work my brother .
The weathering is awesome!!!!!!
The "Yellows" (Sandgelb, etc) with the "Greens" and/or "Olives" are what works for me- I find that "Whites" and/or "Grays" are nowhere near "warm" enough when you're messing with tonal values- The "Yellows" work with FIGURES quite well, too...
Awesome work on the weathering. To the risk of being pick, maybe you should give a look at pictures of prop leading edge.
according to doolittle, all the birds got new props before the raid.
Hello again! May I trouble you with a question?...
In reference to Aqua Gloss (47:00).
How does Aqua Gloss compare with Future?
future is unpredictable and relatively soft. aquagloss is neither of those things.
will pattison
I agree, Future is not a hard coating...
Thank you! I shall give Aqua Gloss a try.
That how I make extra money. I have my clients get everything I need for the kit they cover everything I need .I am retired so I am able to work at least 12 to 14 hours a day on the kits and I enjoy every single minute of it .awesome work will
Will, can you please provide more info on the stencils? Maybe provide the company website, and specifics i.e. name, part number etc.
google arttool stencils. easy to find. =)
G'day Will, I was in touch with you a couple of years ago where you had put me onto Bondo glazing and spot putty - brilliant stuff. My adventures in fillers has been a particular area of interest and I've gone full circle in trying new things.
I went down the UV cure filler road (Tamiya and Sujiborido), both of which are to me far too waxy and just don't stick reliably to plastic, no matter how carefully I prepare it (abrading & cleaning with solvent etc).
Having just watched your Repsol Honda video I saw you used some 'acrylic powder' to reinforce the joint on some of the bodywork. This got me thinking, as you fixed it in place with CA glue ~ what if I tried using the acrylic fluid which is sold with this powder in fake ladies fingernail kits.
Well the results and testing so far have been epic - I learned that the 'acrylic fluid' is a monomer of sorts, and when mixed with the powder it forms a polymer. Great thing is the result when set (about 3-5 mins) is insanely tenacious on styrene plastic (as it needs to be on human fingernail beds). Unlike CA it also remains just flexible enough to stay stuck to plastic even when the plastic is bent to the point of snapping. It is also just hard and crispy enough to be sanded and filed and feathers beautifully without lifting an edge. I found that the finished compound is easier to file and sand when more of the powder is mixed with the fluid initially, and is vice-versa harder/more crispy the more sparingly the powder is added. Great easy to see colours ~ I might use glitter powder on my next fill!
This is obviously carefully developed chemistry which luckily is cheaply sold to a mass market ~ the chemical engineers obviously worked to get a set product that runs the balance between hard and flexible. In the fingernail industry (my girlfriend knows all about this) they apply a 'primer' which chemically sets up the fingernail bed for the acrylic to set. It does this by way of temporarily modifying the pH of the surface - amongst other wizardry! Nowadays in the nail industry there is regulation which ensures that only 'EMA' (Ethyl Methacrylate) products are used on humans, replacing 'old school' MMA (Methyl Methacrylate). Old MMA acrylic fluid was basically an acid etch, but people reported health effects etc, so the industry tweaked as required and now we have the standard stuff available at drug stores (cosmetics warehouses ie Priceline here in Australia).
Anyhoo I thought you might be interested to hear of my experimentation, as it's really proved to be fantastic stuff especially when you want to work quickly and not wait for solvent based fillers to set - humidity here in Oz even in winter time regularly exceeds 70% daily.
I'd LOVE if you were to do a Rubegoldberg video on this stuff..I think I'm like you in that I love experimenting with and learning new things, the hobby is a great mechanism that ties together so many varied interests.
Cheers again mate, Paul
yup. it makes a nice filler, but the monomer smells so horrific i've never opened the bottle since testing it 2 years ago. lol
hahaha yes I believe it's that monomer that we all smell (and nearly die from) when we walk past nail salons in shopping malls. I don't know how those people can work there all day.
I didn't really notice the smell because my hobby table setup has a Blueair 480i sat just in front on the floor and it does a good job of sucking up paint/glue fumes - it's my 'ignorance is bliss' magic box.
Another great project and I'm glad that you included the rear "wooden guns" in the tail cone on this one.
I would like to ask for your forgiveness if I mention that on all B-25B's, the nose wheel hub was covered by a flat "dust" cover and this cover included all pertinent serial numbers, etc.
if there's anybody i consider an authority, it's you! i've always wondered which wheel was which. none of the instructions make it clear.... =(
I looked at my photos of the planes practicing short field take-offs at Eglin and on the Hornet's deck to verify my information............most sane people wouldn't notice or care. I'm told that early version B-25s going to the PacificTheater had this cover but not on those going to the European Theater
the real question is...how can i get all those photos? ;)
Well............asking and showing interest is all I would require from YOU and the promise that you would only share what I send to Matt and no one else. Ebay is full of items that I've sent others with the same promise request. So please understand my position. Several are in my book, but I can make you copies and send them snail mail. May I take some liberties and send you others that I think you'll be interested in ? On a side note, I've been looking for a "home" for my Doolittle collection (almost 400 items) and I'm pretty sure that the USS Hornet Museum will be the final resting place...although naturally I have some personal reservations as this has been a 38 year labor of love having known almost 50 of the raiders.
absolutely. i just want to add to my photo reference collection.
How does it compare to HK B 25?
Hi Will, enjoy and learn from your videos immensely! I do have one quick question. If you happen to see this, what did you use to finish the barrels of the top turret? The gunmetal color looks perfect! Thanks again for sharing all these videos. I know it adds more work to your efforts and I'm very grateful for your labors.
thank you! those are master brass barrels primed with ms1500 then painted with mrp. i just mix black and dark aluminum.
Will, I remember wen I did one monogran B-25 when I was kid, like 25 years ago, I had not used nose weight at all because the kit inclued one small 3 step stair under the boarding ladder that when glued together in the right position supported the rear and the plane looked nice and straight, I thought at the time it was super smart but I never saw any picture of that small stair in real life...
Nice build, great weathering!
Question - was the lack of yellow on the propeller blades deliberate?🤔
Also, was weathering ( chipping) considered for the prop blades? No meant as criticism, but the airframe show rigorous weathering effects, but the propellers look rather pristine? ( new/ replacement prop assemblies?)😀
i thought i mentioned in the video that all the tokyo birds got new props in san diego before boarding the hornet according to doolittle's autobiography, but maybe i forgot. and no, they didn't have the tips painted.
will pattison Thank you for the information. I was not aware of background/intent of this early B-25 type build (i.e. build of a Doolittle Raider).
Very nice build even if it took “extra innings”.👍
Have a happy and safe Holiday. 🎊🎆
"Commission-building"- Will is right- DON'T DO IT! You will NEVER even break even... I know; I've been there, too many times. THAT is why I build for MY OWN PLEASURE, ONLY...
Honestly surprised at the issues you had, but I'm glad to hear about them. I've been trying to get this B-25 B on ebay for a while, but they keep shooting up in price way more than I want to pay. Now I'll have to rethink this. I've built the SBD from Accurate Miniatures/Academy, and it was a wonderful kit. No issues at all. I guess they learned from the B-25???
maybe it's perceptions. i know a very good builder who's been through the sbd twice and says it's mediocre.
Could be. But then I've never claimed to be more than a mediocre modeler! :-) Mainly I was thinking of the fit issues you've had with the B-25. I had to use very little putty on the SBD-3 I built. The cockpit was way over detailed with a lot of small pieces that just can't be seen, even with the canopy open, but I don't think that makes it mediocre. The clear parts fit fine. Now I'd been out of the hobby for a long time and this SBD was my first kit when I came back, so it could be I was easily impressed. In any case, when I found an AM SBD-5 on ebay for a good price I gladly bought it.
How did this B-25 survive it's second mission thru the Fed-X shipping process?
we'll know in a week....
success! i shipped via a special art transporter service.
Hi, academy kit is best option tan revell kit? thanks!
i've built both, i suggest the AM kit, the details and casting are 100x better
Thanks!
I have tried to find the “art tools” random pattern stencils you used on your B-25 and have had no luck. Nothing on their website, Amazon, or eBay. They are just what I need. Could you please give me a link to where I can find them. By the way Will, you are doing a great service for modelers like me. There is no one out there like you and I have learned much from your efforts. It does not go unnoticed.
www.amazon.com/Artool-Freehand-Airbrush-Templates-Template/dp/B004O7EF7O
and thank you for the kind words!
You next 10 Minute Technique video can be: "How In The World Do You Safely Pack and Ship a B-25?"
i realize it is kinda randomly asking but does anybody know a good site to watch new movies online?
@Gregory Samson I use Flixzone. Just search on google for it =)
RE: satin varnish, check out MRP's semi-matt & semi-gloss (MRP-125 & MRP-126), I'm getting great results especially with the semi-matt :)
Truly amazing weathering. I can see why you get asked for commissions... Even ignoring the cowlings and canopy (and the props!), it is a terrible kit, just for fit/assembly alone. That canopy top got me too, and it is horrendous... It does have VERY nice surface detail, but no one can appreciate what you accomplished without first being mauled trying to get it together. The one AM kit I did like was their very last one: The Vindicator... Overall, I liked the company and packaging more than the kits.
How much was it for? How many hours did it take?
Stunning work 👍
Beautiful model, BTW...
Bummer on all the problems with this kit. I've got an original AM, not re-boxing, B-25 C/D kit with a bunch of after market parts I've been itching to build. Another issue with this kit that's blatantly obvious is the incorrect engine cowlings. The opening in them is too small in diameter. I've got corrected cowlings for the kit but man, from watching this video and 1.0, the engine cowlings appear to be the least of my problems when I get started on this kit. Not even sure I will now. May just EBay it all.
Hi!
Who would spend any amount of money on such a used up, dusty, dirty old aeroplane?... I bet she doesn't even fly anymore. ;-) Luckily she still has her machine guns to defend herself on the ground.
But I would certainly watch this video again! That olive drab is stunning. No wonder it took you 161 hours...
(Btw. thanks for the details about the Tungsten powder! Now I know what they are using it for.)
Until next time, all the best!
This is the big oil can
That's hilarious... packing material LMAO.
Crappy kit or not, that turned out really great, Will. Those upper wing surfaces look well worn and the alteration in surface color and texture is very nice. I could go on, but it all looks very good.
Will, the main thing I admire you for is the realism-like approach to modelmaking and therefore justifying your weathering. You didnt do that in this video. Why? I cant find any justification for the marbeling effect. Dot get me wrong, the colour variation looks great but as a realism bitch as I am I always have to have a reason for any kind of weathering.
Btw I love the salt effect.
well, thank you! i'm glad somebody gets me. lol as for this one, the reasons are all the same as the first one, but my techniques has - hopefully - become more refined.
Nice detail and weathering Will.
Epic 😊
Lovely job will👍George in uk
STRATEGO?😳
Jman👀
wow... nuff said
Did you sit in the sun with your sunglasses on hehe eyes little White mate
Flarn filth?🙄
Jman
1st . Love your work Will
Seems more like going back to an ex girlfriend/wife then having buyers remorse!😳
Jman👀
Amazing work sir and after that I’m proud to say I’m never going to build one bwhahaha
Will, I can send you photos......or you can pull them from "doolittleraider.com" which contains many photos from my collection (webmaster is Todd Joyce, son of pilot Richard O. Joyce)......you decide. However, the resolution may be better from Todd's site.