ive done this in a slightly different way and it worked great, i bought a few defiant shuttle fins, for spares and display and some were badly yellow and after three days on each side, submerged in hydrogen peroxide with no cover they looked brand new, im now trying it on storm shadow v1 and 2 and a cobra commander v1 waist. ill keep u posted
I've been told it's called the "vapor method" and its really only good for small stuff because of the volume of liquid vs. items being affected. Submerging an item is the same thing but you don't have to worry about measuring/volume.
I don't know about darker colored plastics, but it might. You may want to test on a small portion (if any part can detach) or on the inside (if that's discolored too). Worst-case scenario it will whiten too much or unevenly so you'll have to watch the progress and not just leave it for hours.
Yes, it should work, but the body and wings are different types of plastic and react to hydrogen peroxide at different speeds. You should take the Skystriker apart so when they soak you can remove the wings or body first, and let the other soak longer to match.
Nice video! I love seeing the varying results! Different types of plastics were used on the various parts, and some of the parts have a coating that tends to yellow over time. Peroxide can de-yellow plastics, but I find that it works BEST on white plastics that have turned yellow. With multiple types of plastic and multiple colors, the effects do vary, and sometimes all an additional soak will do is cause paint to fade further. Retro-bright can be very effective too, but it can also erode and fade certain paints. My 7" R2D2's chrome head got a little on it when I restored the body, and it did cause some fade issues at the bottom of his head. Not bad, but a noticeable amount of fading. Ever tried that retro-bright mix? You can find the formula online/ here on youtube.
I'm not sure. I've seen this process used on vintage Star Wars figures which have vinyl parts, like modern Joes. You may want to ask on GI Joe forums for collectors who have tried it first, though.
Just regular liquid hand soap and a very soft brush or cloth should be okay. Remember to remove screws before hand (or just dry them thoroughly after, if you leave them in). For marker or "added" paint, use GooGone or similar non-harsh glue remover.
I love all of Kevin's GI Joe reviews, but this is the only video I do not support or recommend to others. The hydrogen peroxide treatment is only a temporary solution, and your toys WILL re-yellow inevitably. Whether it takes 2 months or 2 years or even longer, it will happen again. This method only removes the top most yellowed layer that has been oxidized and fully exposes the already affected plastic by exposing the microscopic pits and crevices for further inevitable UV damage. The original oxidized plastic is already involved in a chemical change which cannot ever be reversed, and removing the top most layer does not stop the overall chemical change which is constantly happening underneath. There have been countless reports on YoJoe, TFW2005 and Hisstank message boards of re-yellowing occuring even when the item has been completely kept out of sunlight and stored in dark storage methods and undisplayed. And the re-yellowing is more severe than the first time. The only true way of fixing yellowed toys is to replace them with unaffected un-yellowed toys altogether.
formbx257 Thanks Kevin. I have nothing but the utmost respect and admiration for your work bro. I hope I didn't come off negative or anything, as I intended it as helpful and proven information. This is off-topic, but do you have plans for a USS Defiant (1987) review? I really loved the way you showed how the Cobra Terror Drome disassembles and how you pointed out all the important fragile parts which are at risk for breakage. I am hoping you can cover the USS Defiant in a similar way as I am worried about what parts I need to look out for and be informed about when making a purchase online. Thanks as always and keep up the superb work with the Joe reviews!
I have several stinger drivers that need to be whitened. You mentioned masking the badges with tape and something else. Did you say blu tack? Sorry just couldn't understand.
I buy replacement stickers from cobrastickers.com(9 sheets), to do a full restoration. You put in a solution of 6% , but i just saw 3% in the pharmacy. Where you find the 6%. I live not far from Montréal. P.S. sorry for my english. Thank you and have a nice day. I lire to see your review. Eric.
Yan Eric Pénault Your English is fine! I found 6% at my local pharmacy but it is not common. You might try hair salons (they carry up to 30% to bleach hair). You can also order some online (1 gallon of 16% to 30% should cost $20.00).
1: I'm not sure what effect hydrogen peroxide has on rubbery plastic (I've only tried this on hard plastic). If you want a better Golobulus tail, I would suggest buying a replacement. He's not expensive on the aftermarket (like $5 on EBay, fleamarkets etc.) and you can just take him apart with a phillips-head screwdriver and swap it. 2: To clean vehicles use cool water (never warm or hot) and mild hand or dish washing soap. I use an old toothbrush to get into heavily sculpted areas. Do not brush over the decals - they are printed on the outside and rub away easily. Sometimes I cover these with clear tape before a heavy cleaning. To get rid of old excess glue from stickers: th-cam.com/video/x88n4x9MrMI/w-d-xo.html&lc=z13stpsgdsinzr4pw04cibvpqozfixmgdm40k
ive done this in a slightly different way and it worked great, i bought a few defiant shuttle fins, for spares and display and some were badly yellow and after three days on each side, submerged in hydrogen peroxide with no cover they looked brand new, im now trying it on storm shadow v1 and 2 and a cobra commander v1 waist. ill keep u posted
I've been told it's called the "vapor method" and its really only good for small stuff because of the volume of liquid vs. items being affected. Submerging an item is the same thing but you don't have to worry about measuring/volume.
I don't know about darker colored plastics, but it might. You may want to test on a small portion (if any part can detach) or on the inside (if that's discolored too). Worst-case scenario it will whiten too much or unevenly so you'll have to watch the progress and not just leave it for hours.
Yes, it should work, but the body and wings are different types of plastic and react to hydrogen peroxide at different speeds. You should take the Skystriker apart so when they soak you can remove the wings or body first, and let the other soak longer to match.
Nice video! I love seeing the varying results! Different types of plastics were used on the various parts, and some of the parts have a coating that tends to yellow over time. Peroxide can de-yellow plastics, but I find that it works BEST on white plastics that have turned yellow. With multiple types of plastic and multiple colors, the effects do vary, and sometimes all an additional soak will do is cause paint to fade further. Retro-bright can be very effective too, but it can also erode and fade certain paints. My 7" R2D2's chrome head got a little on it when I restored the body, and it did cause some fade issues at the bottom of his head. Not bad, but a noticeable amount of fading. Ever tried that retro-bright mix? You can find the formula online/ here on youtube.
Yes, I've successfully used retro-brite on my 1990 Avalanche tank. I used that method instead of the peroxide because I wanted to save the stickers.
I'm not sure. I've seen this process used on vintage Star Wars figures which have vinyl parts, like modern Joes. You may want to ask on GI Joe forums for collectors who have tried it first, though.
Ditto Spirit and Gung Ho. I'd gladly cross your palm with silver for them Kev! Thanks for the vid.
is this procedure suitable for modern Joes?
Is it the same plastic for vehicles? Will this work on my 84 sky striker?
I have a Cobra Hurricane that has turned green, will this Help me any?
how about 25th anniversary figure? like storm shadow v2?
hi guys i have some very dirty 80s gijoes, whats the best way to clean them and not get lo loose some of the glossy finish?
thank you, yo joe!!!!
Just regular liquid hand soap and a very soft brush or cloth should be okay. Remember to remove screws before hand (or just dry them thoroughly after, if you leave them in). For marker or "added" paint, use GooGone or similar non-harsh glue remover.
nice review
I love all of Kevin's GI Joe reviews, but this is the only video I do not support or recommend to others. The hydrogen peroxide treatment is only a temporary solution, and your toys WILL re-yellow inevitably. Whether it takes 2 months or 2 years or even longer, it will happen again. This method only removes the top most yellowed layer that has been oxidized and fully exposes the already affected plastic by exposing the microscopic pits and crevices for further inevitable UV damage. The original oxidized plastic is already involved in a chemical change which cannot ever be reversed, and removing the top most layer does not stop the overall chemical change which is constantly happening underneath. There have been countless reports on YoJoe, TFW2005 and Hisstank message boards of re-yellowing occuring even when the item has been completely kept out of sunlight and stored in dark storage methods and undisplayed. And the re-yellowing is more severe than the first time. The only true way of fixing yellowed toys is to replace them with unaffected un-yellowed toys altogether.
Michael Cabrera Thank you for your in-depth comment (I hope everyone reads this!). I have now placed an annotation warning about the effects.
formbx257 Thanks Kevin. I have nothing but the utmost respect and admiration for your work bro. I hope I didn't come off negative or anything, as I intended it as helpful and proven information. This is off-topic, but do you have plans for a USS Defiant (1987) review? I really loved the way you showed how the Cobra Terror Drome disassembles and how you pointed out all the important fragile parts which are at risk for breakage. I am hoping you can cover the USS Defiant in a similar way as I am worried about what parts I need to look out for and be informed about when making a purchase online. Thanks as always and keep up the superb work with the Joe reviews!
Michael Cabrera No problem, I always welcome input from fellow collectors!
Yes, I will be doing a Defiant review in a few months.
Wait, so you don't need to submerge the plastic being treated for it to work? That's news to what I've been taught previously.
I have several stinger drivers that need to be whitened. You mentioned masking the badges with tape and something else. Did you say blu tack? Sorry just couldn't understand.
Yes, blue tack or any type of putty that makes an airtight seal against the figure part. I haven't tried it yet, so I don't know if it will work.
nice video!
Hello, i have a question about to restor yellow to more white. I have a USS Flag. Can i put the tower in the liquid? ????
Yes it would work, but it would also damage any stickers still applied. You would also need a LOT of the liquid.
I buy replacement stickers from cobrastickers.com(9 sheets), to do a full restoration. You put in a solution of 6% , but i just saw 3% in the pharmacy. Where you find the 6%. I live not far from Montréal.
P.S. sorry for my english.
Thank you and have a nice day. I lire to see your review.
Eric.
Yan Eric Pénault Your English is fine! I found 6% at my local pharmacy but it is not common. You might try hair salons (they carry up to 30% to bleach hair). You can also order some online (1 gallon of 16% to 30% should cost $20.00).
I would never! Great vid though!
Would that work on rubber parts, such as Golobulous?
What would you recommend to remove dirt and dust from vehicles, and the glue smuges from decals?
1: I'm not sure what effect hydrogen peroxide has on rubbery plastic (I've only tried this on hard plastic). If you want a better Golobulus tail, I would suggest buying a replacement. He's not expensive on the aftermarket (like $5 on EBay, fleamarkets etc.) and you can just take him apart with a phillips-head screwdriver and swap it.
2: To clean vehicles use cool water (never warm or hot) and mild hand or dish washing soap. I use an old toothbrush to get into heavily sculpted areas. Do not brush over the decals - they are printed on the outside and rub away easily. Sometimes I cover these with clear tape before a heavy cleaning.
To get rid of old excess glue from stickers: th-cam.com/video/x88n4x9MrMI/w-d-xo.html&lc=z13stpsgdsinzr4pw04cibvpqozfixmgdm40k
Storm shadow should have been tried.
AWESOME thank you
You said you were going to use them as parts? I will pay you kevin for the cobra commander! :)
I'll be putting up some GI Joes for sale mid-October, so please check out my Facebook page!
I'll be putting up some GI Joes for sale mid-October, so please check out my Facebook page!