My new favorite 'mini-series' on youtube. I own one from 2002 and having problems with random locking (twice with the key inside and me out ). Easy in your video but I think in my case I will stick with a spare key always in my pocket. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and greetings from Romania.
Glad to hear you like my fabia stuff :-) When cars get old the electrical connections start to play up due to corrosion and loosening. anywhere cable are constantly being moved such as the door cables could eventually cause trouble. Just taking connection off then back on can solve a lot of intermittent issues :-)
Mate you are an absolute life saver. My parents car has this exact issue with the boot not opening and it’s been driving me nuts…great to see a solution and possible easier solution in the comments. Need all these storms to end so I can get at it and when funds are better I’ll be buying you a coffee. You absolute legend. This vid and channel are going to save me hours of research but give me hours of work!
Your videos have helped me out with multiple issues on my '02 Fabia! Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos. Big fan of how you take the time to show how everything works and how to disconnect everything up close. Makes it way easier when doing the job. Especially with many of the brittle plastic connectors, it can be a bit difficult figuring them out yourself. Knowing exactly what to press to release them must have saved so many plastic clips out there 😄 I bet your videos have saves many Fabia owners of numerous big bills! Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your support and I am glad to help others with; as you say the 'brittle plastic connectors' that can be just that sometimes and annoyingly so, only to your detriment after you have taken it off the wrong way :-)
Your videos have helped on a number of occasions, thanks. Can you tell me how to disconnect the cable on the passenger side, please? I've got a window problem and am stripping everything out to find cause but can't release the cable. Does the blanking cap, where the lock on the drivers side would be, have to come off?
@@HatBoyHarvey Greatly appreciate your reply, thanks, but in your video it shows a T20 screw. Mine's doesn't have this, instead it has something that looks like two triangles. I'm confused, is there a special tool I need? Sorry to impose again, but this is all that's stopping me complete the stripdown.
Hi mate. Your videos are fantastic. I have a big issue where i changed the window reg and once it was back together both of my front doors have dead locked shut. I have managed to undo the drivers side panel and have access to the locking mechanism but i still cannot open the door. I cannot release the bowden cable as i cannot pop the trim off the outside door lock. Tbf it doesnt look like its under tension. Is there another way? Thanks again
Bummer! Sorry to here that. These are not easy to open. Try the banging outside door handle of the lock technique whilst pressing the unlock - often works otherwise you may have to break into the lock where the actuator arm is to open it and unfortunately probably have to replace the lock :(. Also try charging the battery up fully along with new bats in key fob. You may have disturbed the wiring loom changing the window regulator, so you will need to check the wires for fraying and the connections. If you have never changed the door locks the micro-swiches will be worn so worth changing anyway. These micro-swiches cause a lot of the locking problems on fabias.
Change the battery in the fob first, not all batteries are the same, cheap one's are no good for this. Check condition of car battery - 12.6 Volts. Make sure red light flashes, if not the it maybe a connection issue in the fob. If you don't get a definite click on the button, then it may be that. Try your second key, if you have one, if not, then you need to get one and have it programmed to your original key.
HI Harvey, I am progressing slowly on replacing my window regulator. The breakage cause was the plastic nylon cable retainer tensioner which has cracked and split allowing the wire cable metal lugs to come loose so the wire itself goes slack and untensioned and then gets wrapped around the centre gear. I am just about to replace the old panel with a new metal panel with regulator attached . It is not quite as good quality as the original though, but looks as if it will do the job, cost £27.00. The difficult bit was drilling out the old rivets. You really need decent drill bits and an OK drill!. I had to buy some and I used HHS high speed steel bits from Halfords cost £7.99 each pack for 2 M7/M8/M6. I used an M6 to initially drill out then an M8 to JUST TAKE THE FRONT END OFF THE OLD RIVET BUT, NOT DRILLING THROUGH TO MAKE A HOLE. I tapped the old pop rivet out with a hammer and old masonry drill bit. I then used a M7 for the RIVNUT Hole , just slightly widening the original door hole, as the original door holes, that the new metal regulator panel attaches too are too small for an M6 rivnut (only M5 and M5 flange bolts don't cover the new panel holes when its attached). I used M6 rivnuts and M6 FLANGE BOLTS length 10mm bolts , with flange just being wide enough to cover the new panel holes edges and secure the new metal panel. An M7 drill bit is required to widen out the original door panel hole to make a perfect hole and fit for the M6 RIVNUTS. Rivnut tool and rivnuts, no flange bolts included cost £19.99 and is very good quality. Flange bolts available on eBay i used stainless steel ones £2.99 for 10. I just thought this might be useful to anyone who has to drill out a riveted panel. My Skoda Fabia VRS is a late 2006 Nov /2007 spec BLT engine 6Y2. I also managed to remove the old panel without undoing the door lock and mechanism. Im hoping it goes back on as easily! Im now watching your videos again to check the reassembly sequences, hoping I don't forget anything! I absolutely couldn't have done this or wouldn't have even tackled this without you excellent video guide and advice. I have found this to be quite a long job, if you havnt done this task before, but so long as people follow your video guide they can do it, saving £100's and £100's in garage bills! Thank you very much Harvey, Keep up the Sterling Work!
Thanks greatly for sharing your experiences and techniques/tools/parts etc, should help others :-) Just to add that it is advisable to use steel riv-nuts rather than alloy as alloy ones oxidize more easily with steel ;-)
Cheers Harvey. I would also like to add that I had to use rivnuts for the speaker reattachment as my pop rivet gun nozzle was to bulky to get close enoght to the soeaker surround and holes and my pop rivet head too small in diameter. I used the same M6 ruvnuts after drilling holes wuder using a M7 drill. I would suggest using stainless steel hex flange bolts ( to fit rivnuts) M6 x 14 or 16mm as 10mm is a tad short unless you really cimpress the rivnuts. That worked a treat! Hope this is of benefit to others Cheers Harvey!
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank you Harvey, I didnt appreciate that and have used aluminium rivnuts..oops! Hopefully they will be ok as Ill now put a bit of 3i1 oil or grease over them and some thread lock when I try and refit everything tomorrow! Excellent advice Harvey!
Super job.... Bravooo..... One question.... This doors central lock is electrically... And no pneumatic... Its right??... I have exactly this problem..... Thanks...
thanks i have this problem in my car but the important problem is the passenger door does not opened from remote or inside never it is locked how can help me
Detach the bellows by the door hinge, examine the wires there for fraying and disconnect/reconnect connections after taking earth lead off, then re-check function. If still no luck then you will have to take the door card off and check connections there. Then examine the micro switch inside the lock mechanism/test/replace.
@@mohammudbriman1179 I understand now, sorry. have you tried banging on the handle a number of times to see if that opens the lock. Believe me this can work as the lock wire mech can get stuck and just needs a bit of a nudge. try squirting lube in and around the handle near the lock also. jiggle the key in the barrel. Have a look at: th-cam.com/video/suB-n30YJHg/w-d-xo.html this video.
Hi HatBoyHarvey have you noticed a reduced brightness in the flashing red LED on driver-side door card? I believe this is connected to the alarm and flashes or blinks when the car is fully locked and alarm activated. I've read in the car handbook that the alarm battery is separate from the usual 12v car battery and needs replacing every 5 (or maybe it was 15?), years or so. If this is true, is a video possible for this or perhaps it is not needed if easy to replace? Thank you.
If you have an alarm the reserve battery is in the siren itself on it's PCB board. I don't have one so can't show this. You can replace the siren if it doesn't work or dismantle it to change the battery. I believe they are rechargeable, but eventually fail. I'm not sure if the flashing immobilizer light has a separate battery at all.
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks. I had wrongly assumed that the red LED was an indication that an alarm was present. I understand now that it is connected to the immobiliser. Do you happen to know where the siren is located?
underneath/behind the left hand wheel arc liner either front or behind rear exhaust guard next to fuel tank depending on age, but I have never seen or dealt with one. I believe you can replace the whole unit with an after-market version that is cheaper and more reliable ;-) (you have got me thinking that I'll have a look on my car after all, just to check if one is there, but don't think it is).
@@HatBoyHarvey thank you. I'd imagine it wouldn't be easy to get to for obvious reasons. I hope it doesn't cause to much work for you if you decide to investigate.
Hello, can you tell me please the exact name and size of the Bolts that I can use to attach the Panel of window regulator to the door? thanks in advance!
The workshop manual and my own experience confirm it is not necessary to remove the window glass. After loosening the bolts which secure it to the lifter, move the glass fully to the top and secure it to the door frame with parcel tape. Then be sure to move the lifter back down before trying to remove the carrier panel. Also, before refitting the lock the end of its apparently redundant coiled spring should be inserted into the slot in the arm that moves when the exterior handle is pulled. That spring sets and keeps the position of that arm in the correct place when (after the lock bolts are fitted) the short cable is attached to the exterior handle. After the barrel is refitted and secured, pull the exterior handle to disengage the spring.
Thanks Geoff for your extra-input on this, most welcome and I'm sure many do do this. But there is a reason I prefer to remove the glass completely (although you then run the risk of breaking it!): It doesn't rely upon poor choice of tape to hold the pane up (as some may do) and removes the possibility your particular tape fails or fails to stick right as you thought Christmas stocking tape would suffice ;-) Also I have found using parcel tape, which is strong enough, often leaves residue on the glass that isn't always easy to remove. Forgetting the lifter arm is another.
Hello just been following you taking the door card off tutorial, should i be able to open the door from the outside once the internal door trim is removed? Thanks and great videos!!!
You can, but if there is a fault with the lock it could stop it opening. often the little cable attached to the handle is over-tight preventing the door from opening. literally thump it a few times with your palm can also open it, honestly :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Mines a 1.2 HTP on a 06 plate hatchback 46000 miles. My key snapped in the barrel so bought a replacement key/barrel, door lock and petrol tank locking cap that all fit the said key for £18 of ebay. just got to have the key recoded to my car which will be £25.
I have heard it may have been to aid the side impact protection giving consistantcy in the panels shear toque in an accident. That is why it is important if you have bolts to toque down each bolt correctly. Another reason maybe to speed up assembly or just they don't want anyone messing inside the door to store contraband! :-)
if you have smoke coming from the oil filler stick it sounds like a blown piston ring or maybe the PCV crack case breather system needs cleaning out or simply the MAF sensor and throttle body/EGR or even an intercooler pipe leak if the smoke is at the exhaust. Could be any number of things, but I would look at the PCV maybe first. Hope this helps :-)
Check the power going to the rear locks, first by the door pillar hinge as these can break due to opening and closing. then the power to the lock behind the panel. Check all conectors and refit, if power is there, but no joy, suspect the lock. Check child lock isn't affecting the lock. Also note that some have reported their convenience control unit had lost coding for all 4 doors so that also maybe worth looking into if you think the locks are good. You would need vag tool or vagcom to do that. Hope this helps and you can get those locks working :-)
hi there Harvey, I have a question. my Skoda Fabia door lock module has a problem so if I bought a new Skoda lock module or OEM parts from amazon or eBay does it just do plug n play or did I have to remap, cos I don't know a thing about it and from where I lived, Skoda is the rarest car in here, so not many workshop or foremen knows about this car.
With the lock yes, should be plug&play as you say, just make sure you disconnect the battery earth lead before. If it is the central locking module under the dash then this needs to be adapted/coded into the car.
My new favorite 'mini-series' on youtube. I own one from 2002 and having problems with random locking (twice with the key inside and me out ).
Easy in your video but I think in my case I will stick with a spare key always in my pocket.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and greetings from Romania.
Glad to hear you like my fabia stuff :-) When cars get old the electrical connections start to play up due to corrosion and loosening. anywhere cable are constantly being moved such as the door cables could eventually cause trouble. Just taking connection off then back on can solve a lot of intermittent issues :-)
Mate you are an absolute life saver. My parents car has this exact issue with the boot not opening and it’s been driving me nuts…great to see a solution and possible easier solution in the comments. Need all these storms to end so I can get at it and when funds are better I’ll be buying you a coffee. You absolute legend. This vid and channel are going to save me hours of research but give me hours of work!
Cheers, you're very welcome, hope you get the boot working :-)
Your videos have helped me out with multiple issues on my '02 Fabia! Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos. Big fan of how you take the time to show how everything works and how to disconnect everything up close. Makes it way easier when doing the job. Especially with many of the brittle plastic connectors, it can be a bit difficult figuring them out yourself. Knowing exactly what to press to release them must have saved so many plastic clips out there 😄
I bet your videos have saves many Fabia owners of numerous big bills! Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate your support and I am glad to help others with; as you say the 'brittle plastic connectors' that can be just that sometimes and annoyingly so, only to your detriment after you have taken it off the wrong way :-)
Svaka ti cast...mislio sam da nikad neces sve ponovo sklopiti.
hvala ti, nema problema :-)
Your videos have helped on a number of occasions, thanks. Can you tell me how to disconnect the cable on the passenger side, please? I've got a window problem and am stripping everything out to find cause but can't release the cable. Does the blanking cap, where the lock on the drivers side would be, have to come off?
It is just the same as the drivers door except it doesn't have a lock. As you say it has a blanking cover, undo the screws and take that out -
@@HatBoyHarvey Greatly appreciate your reply, thanks, but in your video it shows a T20 screw. Mine's doesn't have this, instead it has something that looks like two triangles. I'm confused, is there a special tool I need? Sorry to impose again, but this is all that's stopping me complete the stripdown.
@@BillGriffin-r9s Not at all, post a clip or pic on your channel or Instagram and I'll have a look :-)
Great vid, how do i remove the passenger door latch that doesn’t have a key hole?
Same principle as the drivers door, but without using a key and you will find it slips out easily :-)
Very well made vid, as always. Thank you.
Much appreciated, my pleasure :-)
Hello Harvey, thanks for all videos which you made. You are a guru for fabia 👍
My pleasure my friend :-)
Hi mate. Your videos are fantastic. I have a big issue where i changed the window reg and once it was back together both of my front doors have dead locked shut. I have managed to undo the drivers side panel and have access to the locking mechanism but i still cannot open the door. I cannot release the bowden cable as i cannot pop the trim off the outside door lock. Tbf it doesnt look like its under tension. Is there another way? Thanks again
Bummer! Sorry to here that. These are not easy to open. Try the banging outside door handle of the lock technique whilst pressing the unlock - often works otherwise you may have to break into the lock where the actuator arm is to open it and unfortunately probably have to replace the lock :(. Also try charging the battery up fully along with new bats in key fob. You may have disturbed the wiring loom changing the window regulator, so you will need to check the wires for fraying and the connections. If you have never changed the door locks the micro-swiches will be worn so worth changing anyway. These micro-swiches cause a lot of the locking problems on fabias.
hi, i have fabia 2005 the remote not working and sometime work but must be very close to the car is that switch responsible for my issue ?
Change the battery in the fob first, not all batteries are the same, cheap one's are no good for this. Check condition of car battery - 12.6 Volts. Make sure red light flashes, if not the it maybe a connection issue in the fob. If you don't get a definite click on the button, then it may be that. Try your second key, if you have one, if not, then you need to get one and have it programmed to your original key.
Tack för att du delar med dig av dina kunskaper 👍
Du är mycket välkommen 👍
HI Harvey, I am progressing slowly on replacing my window regulator. The breakage cause was the plastic nylon cable retainer tensioner which has cracked and split allowing the wire cable metal lugs to come loose so the wire itself goes slack and untensioned and then gets wrapped around the centre gear. I am just about to replace the old panel with a new metal panel with regulator attached . It is not quite as good quality as the original though, but looks as if it will do the job, cost £27.00. The difficult bit was drilling out the old rivets. You really need decent drill bits and an OK drill!. I had to buy some and I used HHS high speed steel bits from Halfords cost £7.99 each pack for 2 M7/M8/M6. I used an M6 to initially drill out then an M8 to JUST TAKE THE FRONT END OFF THE OLD RIVET BUT, NOT DRILLING THROUGH TO MAKE A HOLE. I tapped the old pop rivet out with a hammer and old masonry drill bit. I then used a M7 for the RIVNUT Hole , just slightly widening the original door hole, as the original door holes, that the new metal regulator panel attaches too are too small for an M6 rivnut (only M5 and M5 flange bolts don't cover the new panel holes when its attached). I used M6 rivnuts and M6 FLANGE BOLTS length 10mm bolts , with flange just being wide enough to cover the new panel holes edges and secure the new metal panel. An M7 drill bit is required to widen out the original door panel hole to make a perfect hole and fit for the M6 RIVNUTS. Rivnut tool and rivnuts, no flange bolts included cost £19.99 and is very good quality. Flange bolts available on eBay i used stainless steel ones £2.99 for 10. I just thought this might be useful to anyone who has to drill out a riveted panel. My Skoda Fabia VRS is a late 2006 Nov /2007 spec BLT engine 6Y2. I also managed to remove the old panel without undoing the door lock and mechanism. Im hoping it goes back on as easily! Im now watching your videos again to check the reassembly sequences, hoping I don't forget anything! I absolutely couldn't have done this or wouldn't have even tackled this without you excellent video guide and advice. I have found this to be quite a long job, if you havnt done this task before, but so long as people follow your video guide they can do it, saving £100's and £100's in garage bills! Thank you very much Harvey, Keep up the Sterling Work!
Thanks greatly for sharing your experiences and techniques/tools/parts etc, should help others :-) Just to add that it is advisable to use steel riv-nuts rather than alloy as alloy ones oxidize more easily with steel ;-)
Cheers Harvey. I would also like to add that I had to use rivnuts for the speaker reattachment as my pop rivet gun nozzle was to bulky to get close enoght to the soeaker surround and holes and my pop rivet head too small in diameter. I used the same M6 ruvnuts after drilling holes wuder using a M7 drill. I would suggest using stainless steel hex flange bolts ( to fit rivnuts) M6 x 14 or 16mm as 10mm is a tad short unless you really cimpress the rivnuts. That worked a treat! Hope this is of benefit to others Cheers Harvey!
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank you Harvey, I didnt appreciate that and have used aluminium rivnuts..oops! Hopefully they will be ok as Ill now put a bit of 3i1 oil or grease over them and some thread lock when I try and refit everything tomorrow! Excellent advice Harvey!
I wouldn't worry, it's not that bad. look up galvanic corrosion for further information :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey will do Harvey thanks very much!
whats is the part number for front left passenger door lock with remote central locking on a fabia mk1 2006 hatchback 54bhp
Super job....
Bravooo.....
One question.... This doors central lock is electrically... And no pneumatic... Its right??...
I have exactly this problem.....
Thanks...
Yes, correct
thanks i have this problem in my car but the important problem is the passenger door does not opened from remote or inside never it is locked how can help me
Detach the bellows by the door hinge, examine the wires there for fraying and disconnect/reconnect connections after taking earth lead off, then re-check function. If still no luck then you will have to take the door card off and check connections there. Then examine the micro switch inside the lock mechanism/test/replace.
@@HatBoyHarvey i cant becouse the door is closed now and cant examine the wires
@@mohammudbriman1179 I understand now, sorry. have you tried banging on the handle a number of times to see if that opens the lock. Believe me this can work as the lock wire mech can get stuck and just needs a bit of a nudge. try squirting lube in and around the handle near the lock also. jiggle the key in the barrel. Have a look at: th-cam.com/video/suB-n30YJHg/w-d-xo.html this video.
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks a lot i did as you say and at last it is opened but it re locked again and i am trying since that to open but it did not
@@mohammudbriman1179 don't shut it next time and then you can check all the things I mentioned ;)
Hi HatBoyHarvey have you noticed a reduced brightness in the flashing red LED on driver-side door card? I believe this is connected to the alarm and flashes or blinks when the car is fully locked and alarm activated.
I've read in the car handbook that the alarm battery is separate from the usual 12v car battery and needs replacing every 5 (or maybe it was 15?), years or so. If this is true, is a video possible for this or perhaps it is not needed if easy to replace?
Thank you.
If you have an alarm the reserve battery is in the siren itself on it's PCB board. I don't have one so can't show this. You can replace the siren if it doesn't work or dismantle it to change the battery. I believe they are rechargeable, but eventually fail. I'm not sure if the flashing immobilizer light has a separate battery at all.
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks. I had wrongly assumed that the red LED was an indication that an alarm was present. I understand now that it is connected to the immobiliser. Do you happen to know where the siren is located?
underneath/behind the left hand wheel arc liner either front or behind rear exhaust guard next to fuel tank depending on age, but I have never seen or dealt with one. I believe you can replace the whole unit with an after-market version that is cheaper and more reliable ;-) (you have got me thinking that I'll have a look on my car after all, just to check if one is there, but don't think it is).
@@HatBoyHarvey thank you. I'd imagine it wouldn't be easy to get to for obvious reasons. I hope it doesn't cause to much work for you if you decide to investigate.
Hello, can you tell me please the exact name and size of the Bolts that I can use to attach the Panel of window regulator to the door? thanks in advance!
OEM: N90491101 M6x10
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks a lot bro!
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!🙏
You are so welcome, glad to help :-)
The workshop manual and my own experience confirm it is not necessary to remove the window glass. After loosening the bolts which secure it to the lifter, move the glass fully to the top and secure it to the door frame with parcel tape. Then be sure to move the lifter back down before trying to remove the carrier panel.
Also, before refitting the lock the end of its apparently redundant coiled spring should be inserted into the slot in the arm that moves when the exterior handle is pulled. That spring sets and keeps the position of that arm in the correct place when (after the lock bolts are fitted) the short cable is attached to the exterior handle. After the barrel is refitted and secured, pull the exterior handle to disengage the spring.
Thanks Geoff for your extra-input on this, most welcome and I'm sure many do do this. But there is a reason I prefer to remove the glass completely (although you then run the risk of breaking it!): It doesn't rely upon poor choice of tape to hold the pane up (as some may do) and removes the possibility your particular tape fails or fails to stick right as you thought Christmas stocking tape would suffice ;-) Also I have found using parcel tape, which is strong enough, often leaves residue on the glass that isn't always easy to remove. Forgetting the lifter arm is another.
Hello just been following you taking the door card off tutorial, should i be able to open the door from the outside once the internal door trim is removed? Thanks and great videos!!!
You can, but if there is a fault with the lock it could stop it opening. often the little cable attached to the handle is over-tight preventing the door from opening. literally thump it a few times with your palm can also open it, honestly :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thank for that! Got it working. Ill be taking it all back off again for some sound deadening next.
Hi, does anyone know the location of relays on same Fabia. Thanks!
Under the right hand dash and also some within the voltage control unit :-)
thanks man
Is the bottom screw a T20 as well as the top one ?? screw as you don't say, you just mention the top grub screw is a T20, Thanks...
it is, but longer :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey ok thanks, just ordered a set to change the lock, tganks.....
@@HatBoyHarvey Mines a 1.2 HTP on a 06 plate hatchback 46000 miles. My key snapped in the barrel so bought a replacement key/barrel, door lock and petrol tank locking cap that all fit the said key for £18 of ebay. just got to have the key recoded to my car which will be £25.
I have this problem on my fabia combi sdi.
Thank you very much.
No problem, glad to help :-)
The inner panel on mine is riveted in. Why do they have to do this.....
I have heard it may have been to aid the side impact protection giving consistantcy in the panels shear toque in an accident. That is why it is important if you have bolts to toque down each bolt correctly. Another reason maybe to speed up assembly or just they don't want anyone messing inside the door to store contraband! :-)
Is it possible to put bolts instead of riveting in after lock is changed?
it's very useful video, thank you my Dear
So nice of you :-)
Is my skoda fabia 1.4 2010tdi engine low pickup problem oil stick smoke out wat sthaprobalam my hep you
if you have smoke coming from the oil filler stick it sounds like a blown piston ring or maybe the PCV crack case breather system needs cleaning out or simply the MAF sensor and throttle body/EGR or even an intercooler pipe leak if the smoke is at the exhaust. Could be any number of things, but I would look at the PCV maybe first. Hope this helps :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey thanks your yutube chanal good infrmeshne mecanic tekanology good night my language namskaram 🙏
Is this fix the rear door problem too? really?
Check the power going to the rear locks, first by the door pillar hinge as these can break due to opening and closing. then the power to the lock behind the panel. Check all conectors and refit, if power is there, but no joy, suspect the lock. Check child lock isn't affecting the lock. Also note that some have reported their convenience control unit had lost coding for all 4 doors so that also maybe worth looking into if you think the locks are good. You would need vag tool or vagcom to do that. Hope this helps and you can get those locks working :-)
Great video .Thanks
Thanks, glad you liked it :-)
hi there Harvey, I have a question. my Skoda Fabia door lock module has a problem so if I bought a new Skoda lock module or OEM parts from amazon or eBay does it just do plug n play or did I have to remap, cos I don't know a thing about it and from where I lived, Skoda is the rarest car in here, so not many workshop or foremen knows about this car.
With the lock yes, should be plug&play as you say, just make sure you disconnect the battery earth lead before. If it is the central locking module under the dash then this needs to be adapted/coded into the car.
Merci beaucoup pour votre vidéo
Pas de problème, merci :-)
Good Bark thanks
No problem 👍
Super★★★★★
Great video .Thanks
My pleasure, hope it helped you :-)