Not sure about this method with Dynema but other synthetic rope can be heated and moulded to a pleasing ‘termination’. However, you don’t want to do it with your bare fingers, instead have a tissue handy and loosely wrap the rope and quickly squeeze with your fingers whilst drawing off the end. Also, when heating your blade, the hottest part of the flame is not near to the torch; it is at the top of the blue cone of the flame, where gases have burnt but not yet cooled - closer to the torch the flame contains more unburnt gas and so the max temp is not reached.
Roger! Thank you! I’ve been meaning for many weeks now to look up where the hottest part of a propane flame was and keep forgetting. Awesome. And to your first point, I’m familiar with that but haven’t found it successful with dyneema.
I’ve got a few lengths of varying diameters of Dynema (for an, as yet, unstarted project!); I’ll experiment. No promises on timescales, as I’m also retired and ‘spare’ time seems to be at a premium.
Haven’t had a chance to go ‘hands on’ with Dynema yet but I have been looking at vids for splicing loops and making soft shackles etc. - I haven’t found a video that heats/seals/whips the ends; they either bury the end back in the knot or just leave it! If you’re really concerned, I suppose you could use a short piece of adhesive lined heat shrink but until I do get to try it out, I’m not sure how the Dynema will interact - I suspect that its slippery nature will just mean it is a cosmetic terminator that stays on if you’re lucky!!
@@rogerspencer2292 yeah, pure dyneema rope is lousy with knots and is much better suited for splicing (and burying the ends). If the ends are exposed, they tend to fray so it seems ya have to do “something” to the ends. I’ve tried the methods you mentioned and so far, the hot knife is the best. Let me know if you find a better method!!
Best method I've found on most rope is to wrap with tape and then use a hot knife and then quickly remove the tape. Just using a hot knife is good too, but the end might flare slightly. By taping first, you get just about zero flare and have what I would consider to be a perfect end.
Why are you not splicing/burying the ends like your supposed to with dyneema? Edit: If your looking for the splicing tools. Ronstan F15 Splicing Needle or a piece of Bent 0.039 ~ 0.047 music / piano wire that can be found at any hobby or music store for splicing 1.7mm ~ 4mm dyneema
“Supposed to”? You’re right that splicing and burying is the common approach but it isn’t always practical if you’re in the field or need to tie up something quickly.
@@35andRetiredBut your not in the field here. A wire takes up zero space and no other tools or gas. I splice Zing-it and Lash-it in the field almost daily with a paper clip. Its really doesn’t take that much time or effort to splice/burying the tip to make a clean end literally takes 5~10 seconds and no way for it to fray. But thats just my take. You do you.
Don't use an exacto knife. Use a thicker piece of metal so it retains that red hot heat. Then stick the exposed Dyneema onto the hot metal. It will melt more of the end. You may need to press the side inward or later polish off if u do not want a mushroom head
@35andRetired A lot of stuff used in the mantle will shrink a bit (and become a bit tighter) before melting. If you remove a bit of the core and then heat near the end, you might get this to happen before the dyneema expands too much.
That’s works, although I haven’t tried it yet with dyneema. The problem is that it creates a very stiff end, which, in some cases is undesirable. But you’re right, it would work.
I made a hot wire cutter for my nylon webbing. Uses an 18650 battery and vape wire. Flip the switch and watch it glow.
I need to make one of those! Thanks for the idea
Not sure about this method with Dynema but other synthetic rope can be heated and moulded to a pleasing ‘termination’. However, you don’t want to do it with your bare fingers, instead have a tissue handy and loosely wrap the rope and quickly squeeze with your fingers whilst drawing off the end.
Also, when heating your blade, the hottest part of the flame is not near to the torch; it is at the top of the blue cone of the flame, where gases have burnt but not yet cooled - closer to the torch the flame contains more unburnt gas and so the max temp is not reached.
Roger! Thank you! I’ve been meaning for many weeks now to look up where the hottest part of a propane flame was and keep forgetting. Awesome.
And to your first point, I’m familiar with that but haven’t found it successful with dyneema.
I’ve got a few lengths of varying diameters of Dynema (for an, as yet, unstarted project!); I’ll experiment. No promises on timescales, as I’m also retired and ‘spare’ time seems to be at a premium.
Haven’t had a chance to go ‘hands on’ with Dynema yet but I have been looking at vids for splicing loops and making soft shackles etc. - I haven’t found a video that heats/seals/whips the ends; they either bury the end back in the knot or just leave it! If you’re really concerned, I suppose you could use a short piece of adhesive lined heat shrink but until I do get to try it out, I’m not sure how the Dynema will interact - I suspect that its slippery nature will just mean it is a cosmetic terminator that stays on if you’re lucky!!
@@rogerspencer2292 yeah, pure dyneema rope is lousy with knots and is much better suited for splicing (and burying the ends). If the ends are exposed, they tend to fray so it seems ya have to do “something” to the ends. I’ve tried the methods you mentioned and so far, the hot knife is the best. Let me know if you find a better method!!
Best method I've found on most rope is to wrap with tape and then use a hot knife and then quickly remove the tape. Just using a hot knife is good too, but the end might flare slightly. By taping first, you get just about zero flare and have what I would consider to be a perfect end.
Great idea. I did that years ago but kinda forgot about that method. Thanks!
Why are you not splicing/burying the ends like your supposed to with dyneema?
Edit: If your looking for the splicing tools.
Ronstan F15 Splicing Needle
or a piece of Bent 0.039 ~ 0.047 music / piano wire that can be found at any hobby or music store for splicing 1.7mm ~ 4mm dyneema
“Supposed to”?
You’re right that splicing and burying is the common approach but it isn’t always practical if you’re in the field or need to tie up something quickly.
@@35andRetiredBut your not in the field here.
A wire takes up zero space and no other tools or gas. I splice Zing-it and Lash-it in the field almost daily with a paper clip. Its really doesn’t take that much time or effort to splice/burying the tip to make a clean end literally takes 5~10 seconds and no way for it to fray. But thats just my take. You do you.
Don't use an exacto knife. Use a thicker piece of metal so it retains that red hot heat. Then stick the exposed Dyneema onto the hot metal. It will melt more of the end. You may need to press the side inward or later polish off if u do not want a mushroom head
Those are good tips. Thank you!!!
After hot knive cut.. dip in 1 or 2cm in sekund glue.. aka super glue
That is helpful for some applications, but annoying for others! Thanks for the comment
Similar to super glue idea, you can use heat shrink plastic to make a nice end.
Indeed! I’ve tried that with mixed results. Dyneema is so slippery it likes to slip off …
Preheat the end to nearly melting, then cut?
Define “nearly melting” 😂 might work… but I’m not sure if I would always estimate correctly
@35andRetired A lot of stuff used in the mantle will shrink a bit (and become a bit tighter) before melting. If you remove a bit of the core and then heat near the end, you might get this to happen before the dyneema expands too much.
@@sirj3487 great tip! Thank you so much for the comment
Electric hit knife cutter and tips?
I don’t have one to test but I am pretty sure that is one of the best overall methods
Why not dip it in super glue.
That’s works, although I haven’t tried it yet with dyneema. The problem is that it creates a very stiff end, which, in some cases is undesirable. But you’re right, it would work.
Hottest part of flame is tip of inner blue flame. You were too close!!
I have learned that since then! Thanks for letting me know, always something to learn!