Congrats on being being like the only person to review this hotend! Absolutely blowing my mind that I can't find anyone else really covering it. I'd really love to see what speed and flowrate it can achieve.
Its probably because the first two were crap, the first one was massive and you had to print a fan shroud and make adjustments to the firmware and before you got to 300°C heatcreep set in , lord knows what would have happened if you could have reached the claimed 500°C, the second one claimed no new fan shroud required but Ender 3 V2 fan shrouds were melted. Im guessing when creators were asked if they would like to review it they refused, many creators have stopped reviewing Creality printers.
Because all the people in the know, know creality hot ends and extruders are pieces of crap. i had two of these, and both were crap. i had the sprite extruder/hotend combo - totally worthless.
Update on my E3 neo MAX to Spider Pro HF/HS hot end: Well, it worked pretty well considering the changes required. Once I printed the parts that can be found in printables and figuring out which of them I wanted to actually use, started the upgrade. Only real problem was having to file down the CR mount on the left side as it would hit the X axis home switch on homing the unit. Also the modded circular air cooling duct had to be restored to the original supplied duct work for now as it would not fit. Currently all open air mounting of the head components until I can finish making the new fan mounts and maybe create or mod an existing shroud. I need to remeasure the hot end assembly, newer than that shown, may only need to be dropped 5mm or so straight down and most of the old setup may work. Live and learn I guess. Wish I could find the drawings for the original and spider Pro hot ends with dimensions just to confirm my own measurements. . Printed up to 100mm/s with no problems with Sonic Pad and klipper. Until I tried to do the ring for the Iris project trending on Printables. Still worked well up until I was printing the open face version of the keeper ring. Speed did not help even though going down to 30mm/s. Printed lots of dream catchers, though not intentionally. Reduced heat to 195 and came out perfectly at 30mm/s. No attempt to up the speed until the part cooling at the hot end goes back to correctly positioned circular duct. I chose to use the new thermistor. Was a bit of a PITA due to having to run the wires, but it did uncover a few manufacturing issues, like wires looped and kinked in the cable sheath from manufacturing errors. (future intermittent bat $h!t crazy hard to find faults were avoided) Also, installed crimps on all the wire ends that were not terminated. Temp worked right first time and tracked as expected. Overall very happy with the result, but as noted, it is not for the plug and play set. Expect to do some work to make it all fit, work and look professional when you are done. Yes, went through a good number of wire tyes as well.
Wow. You've been busy! Thanks for the awesome info. When you have it all sorted, fill us in, and link us to the parts. 👍🏼👍🏼 What is this trending thing? Link me up
Another recommendation would be to run a PID AUTOTUNE or MPC AUTOTUNE (depending on your firmware) for the hot end. Mine performed a lot better once I did two consecutive runs of MPC autotune using MIRSCOC firmware, much more consistent heat. The first tune threw an error but the next one was spot on, I assume because it was still learning. Save/store your setting after each test.
Nice video. Glad to see others using this hotend too. I did a few videos on this hotend a while back. I have two of them on Ender 6 machines. Love them so far.
Did you have to modify the fan shroud and is the stock Thermistor able to handle high heat or did you replace it with Upgrade HT-NTC100K Thermistor. Will BLT have to be adjusted. I have ender 6 which i going to install it on. if your video is on ender 6 would you send me the link thank you
Thanks for the Video. It helped me figure out the proper retraction distance. One thing I suggest in addition when changing and hot end is to go through the PID process to make sure you don't have temperature fluctuations.
Thanks so much. Means allot. Also, amazingly, my GF is dragging me away from my computer, where I am working on an updated version of THIS video.... and as we walking to her car, your Coffee tip showed up. I have no words for how helpful tips are in my life. THANK YOU!!! Stay tuned for a re-release of this video, showing the required Spacer
Time for another update. After the last experiment, I modified a CR mount model from printables but decided not use it. Felt it would be easier to make a new mount just for the spider that would lower the head to as close to the original position as possible. It actually worked, but it was a bit of stepwise refinement as I went. The end result is a Spider mount that lowers the block by about 5mm to the original height so that the CR touch and mount stays stock. Integrated with that is a flat spacer about equal to the added distance of the Spider to shift the center of the custom part cooling air ring to match as the Spider has a thicker profile than the smart end that was stock with the E3 Neo Max. Worked pretty well, but needs some clean up before I post it. Now for a cleaner cooling fan mount and maybe a shroud, but I really don't care if there is one or not. But the cooling fan mount will have a cone from the fan to the Spider cooling fins once I get a clean cone shape without gaps and splits. The main drawback is that I am at the level of Tinkercad where it becomes frustrating to use vs a better cad package, but not ready to take the time for the learning curve of the higher power cad package..... Maybe then a quick video of the parts and finished assembly. Just not a heck of a lot of stuff specific to the Ender 3 Neo Man yet.
The hot end won't effect my esteps. A PID tune wouldn't be a bad idea. And a retraction test if need be. For me, didn't need either. Set retractions to 5, and has been super every print so far. Banging out adult masks✌🏼
Thanks so much for sharing how to install the new spider. I'd like to know if the older brass nozzles, which were for the stock, can be used with the new hotend. I have so many extra ones. thanks
Wish damn thing worked with ender 3 max neo, and v2 neo. I had to replace my back plate and use a v2 fan cover in order to get spider 3 to work, as well as print my own v2 mount for my CR touch. Basicly the original spider is more on par length wise with my neos.
Thanks for the video. I'm new to 3D print and have the Ender 3 S1. What are your thoughts on the new hotend now you've used it for some months? Does the increased temp and speed work for all filaments or only special. At the moment i"m only using PLA
The Spider 3 is still working perfect and on it's 1st Nozzle. I'm running 2 of them now. But my Stock E3 Max still working great also. Your S2 Sprite Hotend is fine. Leave it be.
@@3DRundown I already have an Ender 3 V2 and I recently bought a hot end spider similar to this one and I wanted to see how it was installed, thank you very much, it helped me a lot. Amazing how so much can go wrong
@@3DRundown Yes, I agree, it's part of the fun. I also liked the V2; I bought it a year ago and I'm still learning. I've already made several things like vases, Christmas decorations, and so on. I'm taking my time with everything; it's a hobby, supposed to be enjoyable. So when I start getting frustrated, I just stop and come back to it another day. My goal now is to make it reliable, working well. On my day off, I'll install the Spider again. Thank you, and sorry, my English isn't very good either 😁
@@3DRundown Hello my friend, 5 months later hahaha, the work was tough but I believe I found the solution to my parts not sticking to the bed, especially the first layer. In fact, they were coming off because they were warping, I'm working with PETG, I don't know why I started with it? PLA would be so much easier, So I tested various fan settings to cool it down slowly and avoid warping, and it has been working. I even printed the supports for the spider hot end and the BLTouch, which I was finally able to install. I noticed that the layer adhesion with it is much better now. I believe I'm on the right track. Thanks for the tips. 👍
My Spider 3 hasn't missed a beat on my 5+. Which Extruder are you using? I would use the metal one: th-cam.com/video/BrYDH4RWojY/w-d-xo.html Is the extruder moving? Your stepper is working? th-cam.com/video/k2T8_rkKQLY/w-d-xo.html is it heating properly? Did you somehow swap the connections for Thermistor and Heater? If you remove the Nozzle, is the heatbreak clear? Is your bowden too long?
Thanks for your reply. Extruder is the one that came with Ender 5 plus. temperature seems correct set at 220C. The thermistor and heat cartridge are in their correct places, checked 4 to 5 times. I change to a new pack fillerment PLA . Don't think my Bowden tube is too long, didn't have problems before I change to spider. Have also done levelling a few times so my bed should be fine. I will remove my nozzle and check. I am trying to find on line the correct slicer setting. i wrote to Creallity but they didn't answer. I use Cura. One question, could I have damaged the thermistor or the heat cartridge and if so how can I tell? The temperature seems ok and when I push the fillerment through, there is no problem. I have inserted a needle up the nozzle, it's clean. @@3DRundown
I was thinking about getting one for an Ender 3, but I'm not sure if it will install without any special parts needed. Hard to know what the real printing temperatures are too. Some say 300C, but others say 450C and that it can print PEEK plastic, which requires 370C-450C temperatures to print. I also was wondering if it's a high speed hot end, will it work okay at normal speeds too? I was reading about another high speed hot end that people really like, but people were saying that you can't print large projects at regular speeds, because it'll start having problems. You have to print in high speed for it to work, but it prints well at high speed... so it's just a requirement and not really a big deal I guess. (...and why the hell do Ender directions always SUCK? My Ender 3 directions were the worst I had ever seen and then when I got the dual Z-axis kit the directions were nothing more than a single picture.)
Directions have greatly improved in recent year. The HF Nozzles can print at slow speeds just fine. Also, consider a new machine with a Sprite Direct drive for these tough materials you want to print
the first three strands came right off and you didn't swipe at the two center feet 1rst layers... how did you know it was close enough to let keep printing without touching to test?
As I'm touching, I'm lowering the Z-Offset. Once it stops moving when I touch it, I'm good. Assuming my bed is well trammed, and my ABL is working, if it sticks well in one spot, it should for the rest. I rubbed the feet from behind, as I ran out of skirt, and it was really tough to touch the little feet under the hit end. However, at that point, I can see the layer printing well with my eyes. Ideally, I'd want my Z set, during the skirt, before the print starts. Here, I just made it. Allot of experience, helps make this easier.
Okay awesome. It's good to know as I do this stuff it'll be visually measurable so I can feel confident in my patterns of maintenance and upgrading. Thank you! @@3DRundown
Greg how do you like this compaired to the ceramic version? You commented to me to look into this one for my Ender 3 pro. Whats the max temp for this hotend? Have an awesome day and a good Labor day weekend ✌️🤓
I had 2 Speedy Spider, AKA Spider 4, on my 5+, and both gave me temp problems. Maybe it was something else, but, I have NEVER had an error on a Spider 3. This is the one I am comfortable reccomending.
Greg, finally got mine in, just watching this again while at work, looking to see how you disconnect the thermal coupler wire off the motherboard, they buried it in plastic. Just taking my time with an exacto knife.
@@3DRundown Just bought mine. This hotend seems to have 2 ways to mount. The 2 holes on the heatsinks can be mounted directly to the original carriage screw holes. I think another way is to use a 2 piece aluminium mount (bought seperately) that clasps the circular neck of the hotend. Can someone share some experience?
I have applied some thermal paste on thermistor (new one) and heat cartrige. First start, preheat, and strange smell, do I've done something wrong and need to clean my heat catrige or it's normal ?
It's exactly 900% more than allot. For reals, you DO need the boot. It's an insulator. Your machine will need to work allot harder to heat and maintain a temperature, without it.
Hi! Nice video, thank you. I installed successfully, but at second day I started getting clogs in all my prints. Im printing PLA at 205°. I checked extruder gear, bowden tube, bed calibration, Z calibration + eccentrics, extruder motor steps, hotend PIDs and different PLA brands. My actual retraction settings are 5mm for distance, 45mm/s for retraction speed, and 10mm for minimum extrusion distance window. My printer is the Ender 3 classic, and I'm using Cura slicer. What could be the issue? Thanks a lot!
@@3DRundown Can you perhaps share some insight on your slicer settings? I am on an ender3v2 with this exact hotend and I keep getting clogs when printing with PETG. My current settings for retraction are 3mm distance (as suggested by the booklet accompanying the spider hotend) 35mm/s retraction speed and 10mm for minimum extrusion distance. I am using cura 5.8. I have tried multiple settings and speeds but nothing seems to fix my issue. I also tried increasing the temp a bit for the material. My current print speed is my default 50mm/s (I have experimented with speeds ranging from 25mm/s all the way up to 80mm/s - but the same problem persists) . I 've done my PID tuning and my esteps calibration, but again nothing. The clogs seem to only occur after 1 hour and something of printing, sometimes a bit sooner if there are a lot of supports. There seems to be a gradual build of melted material going further up than it should in the heatbreak. I also tried switching to better fans. I somehow feel that i am missing some setting or something that somehow relates to the high flow...Any ideas??? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I 've been stuck with this problem for over a month now....Essentially I switch back to either the stock hotend or my microswiss whenever I actually need to print something functional, and in my spare time I keep trying to tune in the spider v3 pro.
Did you ever figure out the nature of the problem? I am facing a similar issue on my Ender3v2 but mostly when printing PETG. The problem only seems to occur when printing stuff that take more than an hour and a half. Melted material seems to gradually build up in the hotend going progressively higher and higher. Thanks in advance, for any input
@@Estariol87 hi! Yes. The problem was retraction settings. I set 2mm for retraction distance and 40mm/s for retraction speed. That worked for me! So, you can try doing retraction test, starting for retraction distance between 1 to 2 mm to check how much strings are in the test. Later, try setup the retraction speed between 30 to 40 mm/s to reduce much more the strings. Good luck!
i got an error on the nozzle, when trying to preheat it for a test run, i plugged the thermo sensor in and cut and soldiered the black adapter wires to the existing thermo wires that way i didnt have to dig into the motherboard with sealed plugs any ideas? is there a reverse polarity issue maybe? thanks Greg.
@@3DRundownGreg it seems ok, I checked the motherboard connection on all connections. Still get err under the nozzle indicator on main 🥺 screen. When I do a PID adjustment what should they be set at? I've tried asking on Reddit. Just checking in PID, I have no clue and have never made any adjustments there.
@@3DRundown thank you. imo, spider looks way cooler, but we can't see it anyway. Microswiss it is. I am also planning to upgrade to a ldo orbiter v2.0 direct drive. Anything I should worry about?
does anyone have problems with the bowden tube pushing itself out of the hotend. It keeps happening with mine and it stops my prints. Im going to install a directdrive so It cant pop out, but any ideas why this might be happening?
@3DRundown thank you for the help. I'm going to try it a few more times. If it is the coupler, I'll have to return it, which is a pain. But I just got an x1c and I'm in love with it.
Looking at my Spider 3, and seeing the coupler is not your typical coupler. I'm not entirely sure what the appropriate coupler replacement would be. Couplers have little teeth in them. When you depress the ring, they retract, when you insert the clip, they lock in place. If they tube was pulled on, without depressing, the teeth will be ruined. Email creality CS@CREALITY.COM, or Live chat after 9pm on Creality.com, and VERY CLEARLY IN BASIC ENGLISH, explain that the coupler is defective, and ask for a replacement. Send pics
Installed a 4.2.7 board wtih cr touch on my original ender 3 and its been working very well except for one weird thing I noticed. Whenever I adjust my Z offset the printer doesnt move as im doing it, although the Z offset DOES apply to prints. So basically it takes me a lot of guessing and trial and error to get the right z offset everytime I change something. I'm assuming this is a software related issue?
You might be better off running a print, using a skirt, and baby stepping your Z from there. Then, when it's good, just choose SAVE. However, consider better firmware. donate $2 to these guys, and use theirs: marlin.crc.id.au/ Here is a good way to mess with your baby stepping: th-cam.com/video/veZB415QHM0/w-d-xo.html Truth be told, once you have it set fairly close, I always just use a print skirt, to finalize it. And, if it looks like it needs an adjustment at some point, I again, just use the skirt, or 1st layer of a print, to babystep it, and save from there.
What Firmware are you using? I went over the MIRSCOC and it's been better. Though you have to disable something if you want to create a bed mesh larger than 5x5... If I remember correctly because the bed mesh itself gets errors the longer the CR/BR touch probe runs. I had a similar issue with Z offset constantly changing. I also altered my start and end G-Code to help with the issue as well. but it's been a while since I've touched the printer.
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I literally had it runing on my 5+ in under 10 min, after putting it off for 2 months. It's very easy. Don't be intimidated. You can 100% do it. And you don't have to go crazy trying to print super fast and all that nonsense.
Ok this upgrade does NOT fit on the Ender 3 neo max. The mounting screws line up perfectly but that is the only thing that does. The top of the hot end unit won't fit under the shroud so no biggie I dremmeled the shroud. But once I had that on I see the nozzle end doesn't extend far enough down to clear the shroud nor the cooling fan vent. So I emailed them, again, ... but they are out on their 10 day national holiday...:( ... this is going to be a pain.
Because some people do things the right way. Some the wrong way. And have nothing useful to do with their time or printers, so they massively over complicate things
A word of warning to fellow Ender 3 Max Neo users, this hotend will not fit your printer. Learned that the hard way. This will work with the rest of the ender 3 series
Working on install for E3 N Max. found printables, hopefully work well enough to print my new shroud design. Also using new thermistor. Be a couple days until I get finished. Then experiment time.
Easier Time? These things couldn't possibly be easier. I can't remember the last time I had an "ADHESION" Issue. Jesus, what kind of dort uses that word, while trying feel cool on the internet? I have 20 machines, and shipped over 1400 items last year, most of the costing $50-$100) [Go ahead, do the math....]. You might want to consider a little time to educate before you look like a clown on the internet.
You defeated the purpose of the install by reusing the old thermistor. You can not run it to 300C with that thermistor or stock firmware! It is pointless to do this upgrade if you only print in PLA.
Lolz. Who uses Stock firmware on a Creality Printer!? I will not be using it for High Heat, or High Speed. "Pointless" is nonsense. That said, I can't, and won't, cover every base and topic in a single video. Nobody want's to dit through that
Actually, this is yet another fun fact with Creality. Not much data anywhere on the components. My Spider HF/HS Pro instructions say (gotta love this sh**) "When the terminal of the thermistor does not match the interface of the motherboard, you need to modify it yourself. Or use the original thermistor".
I see nothing wrong with this. If it's connector, is different than the MB you are using, you'll need to match it. OR, just splice it inline. This makes for wide and easy, compatability.
I ended up buying one of these and at least the silicone holes are on both sides now . The only problem I'm having is filament is somehow leaking out between parts of the nozzle that aren't meant to have leaks. Creating huge messes that will build up all around that whole bottom square part. I wish I would have kept my old nozzle. But I was so excited I just threw it away after I installed this.
I thought the new thermistor was necessary, because the stock thermistor doesn't have the ability to work with any temps higher than the original hot end was capable of creating.
Is there a link to a Creality installation video? I don't seem to be able to find one for this or the v2.0 non high flow one (which I bought and want to install).
Incredible tutorial video. Had to sub. Hope to see more like this. Very well done, sir. I just ordered mine so... yeaaah here we go. Always one more upgrade, right? yeesh. Nicely done.
@@3DRundown LOL oh i went down the alice in wonderland of upgrades for my printer LOL definitely regretting it but I have learned so many things....mostly what NOT to do LOL!
Would not do that. Use the new one. Accident waiting to happen. Home/hobbiest device or not, it is a device that has been know to have uhm, serious issues on certain failures.
Congrats on being being like the only person to review this hotend! Absolutely blowing my mind that I can't find anyone else really covering it. I'd really love to see what speed and flowrate it can achieve.
Thank you. It's been on my to-do for a while. Surprisingly nice hot end!
Its probably because the first two were crap, the first one was massive and you had to print a fan shroud and make adjustments to the firmware and before you got to 300°C heatcreep set in , lord knows what would have happened if you could have reached the claimed 500°C, the second one claimed no new fan shroud required but Ender 3 V2 fan shrouds were melted. Im guessing when creators were asked if they would like to review it they refused, many creators have stopped reviewing Creality printers.
Because all the people in the know, know creality hot ends and extruders are pieces of crap. i had two of these, and both were crap. i had the sprite extruder/hotend combo - totally worthless.
@@zebsolaria4763 I agree. I'll take the Titan with volcano over the Sprite all day long.
lies
You’re good at explaining all steps so even us newbies can understand, thank you!
Update on my E3 neo MAX to Spider Pro HF/HS hot end:
Well, it worked pretty well considering the changes required. Once I printed the parts that can be found in printables and figuring out which of them I wanted to actually use, started the upgrade. Only real problem was having to file down the CR mount on the left side as it would hit the X axis home switch on homing the unit. Also the modded circular air cooling duct had to be restored to the original supplied duct work for now as it would not fit. Currently all open air mounting of the head components until I can finish making the new fan mounts and maybe create or mod an existing shroud. I need to remeasure the hot end assembly, newer than that shown, may only need to be dropped 5mm or so straight down and most of the old setup may work. Live and learn I guess. Wish I could find the drawings for the original and spider Pro hot ends with dimensions just to confirm my own measurements. . Printed up to 100mm/s with no problems with Sonic Pad and klipper. Until I tried to do the ring for the Iris project trending on Printables. Still worked well up until I was printing the open face version of the keeper ring. Speed did not help even though going down to 30mm/s. Printed lots of dream catchers, though not intentionally. Reduced heat to 195 and came out perfectly at 30mm/s. No attempt to up the speed until the part cooling at the hot end goes back to correctly positioned circular duct.
I chose to use the new thermistor. Was a bit of a PITA due to having to run the wires, but it did uncover a few manufacturing issues, like wires looped and kinked in the cable sheath from manufacturing errors. (future intermittent bat $h!t crazy hard to find faults were avoided) Also, installed crimps on all the wire ends that were not terminated. Temp worked right first time and tracked as expected. Overall very happy with the result, but as noted, it is not for the plug and play set. Expect to do some work to make it all fit, work and look professional when you are done. Yes, went through a good number of wire tyes as well.
Wow. You've been busy! Thanks for the awesome info. When you have it all sorted, fill us in, and link us to the parts. 👍🏼👍🏼 What is this trending thing? Link me up
Another recommendation would be to run a PID AUTOTUNE or MPC AUTOTUNE (depending on your firmware) for the hot end. Mine performed a lot better once I did two consecutive runs of MPC autotune using MIRSCOC firmware, much more consistent heat. The first tune threw an error but the next one was spot on, I assume because it was still learning. Save/store your setting after each test.
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks a ton for this video! really saved me a lot of pain installing it on my ender 3 v2, cheers!
Happy to help!! It's a nice hot end
Nice video. Glad to see others using this hotend too. I did a few videos on this hotend a while back. I have two of them on Ender 6 machines. Love them so far.
Did you have to modify the fan shroud and is the stock Thermistor able to handle high heat or did you replace it with Upgrade HT-NTC100K Thermistor. Will BLT have to be adjusted. I have ender 6 which i going to install it on. if your video is on ender 6 would you send me the link thank you
@@Toaddaddy I should add that funny enough my videos are on the Ender 6.
Thanks for the Video. It helped me figure out the proper retraction distance. One thing I suggest in addition when changing and hot end is to go through the PID process to make sure you don't have temperature fluctuations.
Yes. At the time, the E3MAX firmware didn't have PID tuning. But, on any machine with PID tune as an option, it's a must.
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Thanks for your installations instructions. Those provided by Creality were less than useless.
They always are! Happy to help. 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Great tutorial, was looking for info before installing the spider 2.0 on my ender 3 v2
The art of instructing you have..
Thanks so much. Means allot. Also, amazingly, my GF is dragging me away from my computer, where I am working on an updated version of THIS video.... and as we walking to her car, your Coffee tip showed up. I have no words for how helpful tips are in my life. THANK YOU!!! Stay tuned for a re-release of this video, showing the required Spacer
Time for another update. After the last experiment, I modified a CR mount model from printables but decided not use it. Felt it would be easier to make a new mount just for the spider that would lower the head to as close to the original position as possible. It actually worked, but it was a bit of stepwise refinement as I went. The end result is a Spider mount that lowers the block by about 5mm to the original height so that the CR touch and mount stays stock. Integrated with that is a flat spacer about equal to the added distance of the Spider to shift the center of the custom part cooling air ring to match as the Spider has a thicker profile than the smart end that was stock with the E3 Neo Max. Worked pretty well, but needs some clean up before I post it. Now for a cleaner cooling fan mount and maybe a shroud, but I really don't care if there is one or not. But the cooling fan mount will have a cone from the fan to the Spider cooling fins once I get a clean cone shape without gaps and splits. The main drawback is that I am at the level of Tinkercad where it becomes frustrating to use vs a better cad package, but not ready to take the time for the learning curve of the higher power cad package.....
Maybe then a quick video of the parts and finished assembly. Just not a heck of a lot of stuff specific to the Ender 3 Neo Man yet.
Yea, sadly the NEO's never got the love that Pro, V2, Max, or S1's got. I think they shoulda been named Ender 3 V3, rather than the ambiguous "NEO".
I have a cr10s pro v2 and i got this hotend, i think your solution would for me, what did you use exactly to lower the spider down?
Very well explained, thanks!
great installation video, they probably shouldve told you to calibrate your esteps after installing a new hotend
The hot end won't effect my esteps. A PID tune wouldn't be a bad idea. And a retraction test if need be. For me, didn't need either. Set retractions to 5, and has been super every print so far. Banging out adult masks✌🏼
good video ... new sub for you! Got the new spider hot end on the way for my 3v2 neo.
Let us know how it goes on the NEO
I ended up using the one provided because the wires broke off the original one when trying to remove it.
The wiring is junk.
Thanks so much for sharing how to install the new spider. I'd like to know if the older brass nozzles, which were for the stock, can be used with the new hotend. I have so many extra ones. thanks
Negative. Spider uses very different nozzles. Hit the link in my description. This hotend is excellent
@@3DRundown thanks so much for replying greatly appreciate your generosity in sharing & guiding us. 🙏
My pleasure friend. Thanks for being here
it appears that the included thermal grease is not rated for the temps we require for 3d printing. Just a heads-up!
I prefer to use my own, however, I'm still using this printer, and this hot end, to this day....
Wish damn thing worked with ender 3 max neo, and v2 neo. I had to replace my back plate and use a v2 fan cover in order to get spider 3 to work, as well as print my own v2 mount for my CR touch. Basicly the original spider is more on par length wise with my neos.
I wish I had a Neo to mess with. Surprised to be hearing it doesn't fit. Peeps on Printables are working on new shrouds for the Neo and Spider.
Thanks for the video. I'm new to 3D print and have the Ender 3 S1.
What are your thoughts on the new hotend now you've used it for some months?
Does the increased temp and speed work for all filaments or only special. At the moment i"m only using PLA
The Spider 3 is still working perfect and on it's 1st Nozzle. I'm running 2 of them now. But my Stock E3 Max still working great also. Your S2 Sprite Hotend is fine. Leave it be.
thanks
Very welcome. I'm still running this hot end.
@@3DRundown I already have an Ender 3 V2 and I recently bought a hot end spider similar to this one and I wanted to see how it was installed, thank you very much, it helped me a lot. Amazing how so much can go wrong
OMG, tell me about it. But, F*cking up, is just part of the game! 😆😆 V2 is a nice machine.
@@3DRundown Yes, I agree, it's part of the fun. I also liked the V2; I bought it a year ago and I'm still learning. I've already made several things like vases, Christmas decorations, and so on. I'm taking my time with everything; it's a hobby, supposed to be enjoyable. So when I start getting frustrated, I just stop and come back to it another day. My goal now is to make it reliable, working well. On my day off, I'll install the Spider again. Thank you, and sorry, my English isn't very good either 😁
@@3DRundown Hello my friend, 5 months later hahaha, the work was tough but I believe I found the solution to my parts not sticking to the bed, especially the first layer. In fact, they were coming off because they were warping, I'm working with PETG, I don't know why I started with it? PLA would be so much easier, So I tested various fan settings to cool it down slowly and avoid warping, and it has been working. I even printed the supports for the spider hot end and the BLTouch, which I was finally able to install. I noticed that the layer adhesion with it is much better now. I believe I'm on the right track. Thanks for the tips. 👍
Are the nozzles the same as the old Spider?
No, these are much shorter.
Hola
No sabes si existe alguna mejora de ventilación que pueda imprimir?
Es para mi Ender 3
Y el q ya había impreso no le queda 😢
Look for a "Shroud" on Printables.com
Great video.
Stalled Spider 3 on my Ender 5 plus I did change the thermistor however it's not extruding! Help!
My Spider 3 hasn't missed a beat on my 5+. Which Extruder are you using? I would use the metal one: th-cam.com/video/BrYDH4RWojY/w-d-xo.html
Is the extruder moving? Your stepper is working? th-cam.com/video/k2T8_rkKQLY/w-d-xo.html
is it heating properly? Did you somehow swap the connections for Thermistor and Heater?
If you remove the Nozzle, is the heatbreak clear?
Is your bowden too long?
Thanks for your reply. Extruder is the one that came with Ender 5 plus. temperature seems correct set at 220C. The thermistor and heat cartridge are in their correct places, checked 4 to 5 times. I change to a new pack fillerment PLA . Don't think my Bowden tube is too long, didn't have problems before I change to spider. Have also done levelling a few times so my bed should be fine. I will remove my nozzle and check. I am trying to find on line the correct slicer setting. i wrote to Creallity but they didn't answer. I use Cura. One question, could I have damaged the thermistor or the heat cartridge and if so how can I tell? The temperature seems ok and when I push the fillerment through, there is no problem. I have inserted a needle up the nozzle, it's clean. @@3DRundown
I was thinking about getting one for an Ender 3, but I'm not sure if it will install without any special parts needed. Hard to know what the real printing temperatures are too. Some say 300C, but others say 450C and that it can print PEEK plastic, which requires 370C-450C temperatures to print. I also was wondering if it's a high speed hot end, will it work okay at normal speeds too? I was reading about another high speed hot end that people really like, but people were saying that you can't print large projects at regular speeds, because it'll start having problems. You have to print in high speed for it to work, but it prints well at high speed... so it's just a requirement and not really a big deal I guess. (...and why the hell do Ender directions always SUCK? My Ender 3 directions were the worst I had ever seen and then when I got the dual Z-axis kit the directions were nothing more than a single picture.)
Directions have greatly improved in recent year. The HF Nozzles can print at slow speeds just fine. Also, consider a new machine with a Sprite Direct drive for these tough materials you want to print
the first three strands came right off and you didn't swipe at the two center feet 1rst layers... how did you know it was close enough to let keep printing without touching to test?
As I'm touching, I'm lowering the Z-Offset. Once it stops moving when I touch it, I'm good. Assuming my bed is well trammed, and my ABL is working, if it sticks well in one spot, it should for the rest. I rubbed the feet from behind, as I ran out of skirt, and it was really tough to touch the little feet under the hit end. However, at that point, I can see the layer printing well with my eyes. Ideally, I'd want my Z set, during the skirt, before the print starts. Here, I just made it. Allot of experience, helps make this easier.
Okay awesome. It's good to know as I do this stuff it'll be visually measurable so I can feel confident in my patterns of maintenance and upgrading. Thank you! @@3DRundown
Greg how do you like this compaired to the ceramic version? You commented to me to look into this one for my Ender 3 pro. Whats the max temp for this hotend? Have an awesome day and a good Labor day weekend ✌️🤓
I had 2 Speedy Spider, AKA Spider 4, on my 5+, and both gave me temp problems. Maybe it was something else, but, I have NEVER had an error on a Spider 3. This is the one I am comfortable reccomending.
Greg, finally got mine in, just watching this again while at work, looking to see how you disconnect the thermal coupler wire off the motherboard, they buried it in plastic. Just taking my time with an exacto knife.
Oh I see now, I'll lightly crimp it, this'll save lots of time. Thanks again
Yea, it's HOT GLUE. They do it to survive shipping. annoying, but it'll come off.
Thanks, everything works great Greg 🔥🔥
have you tried going above 100mm/sec or anything? My kit is on the way
Nah, slow and stead on my big boys. Great hot end.
Its not called thermal grease its called thermal paste.
grease would imply it stays lubricated, paste dries out.
Nobody cares
Where does the high speed come into play? How do I use that?
With a Sonic Pad
i would love to buy one of these if they used standart v6 or volcano nozzles. Their proprietary sizing feels intentional.
It likely is, but these nozzles will last much longer than the brass ones, and they are only about $4
@@3DRundown longevity is cool, but high flow is even cooler. If you have a "high flow" hotend it needs a nozzle to keep up with it
This Hotend uses a HIGH FLOW Nozzle. Or, you can use a standard MK8 (the the HF version MK-HF)
I think there is 2 version of this hotend. The normal speed & high temp vs the high speed high temp one.
Yes. A version 2, and a version 3 Pro, which is the High Flow/Heat version. This is the 3 Pro.
@@3DRundown Just bought mine. This hotend seems to have 2 ways to mount. The 2 holes on the heatsinks can be mounted directly to the original carriage screw holes. I think another way is to use a 2 piece aluminium mount (bought seperately) that clasps the circular neck of the hotend. Can someone share some experience?
Do it the way it came. The circle is a Ceramic heater
I have applied some thermal paste on thermistor (new one) and heat cartrige. First start, preheat, and strange smell, do I've done something wrong and need to clean my heat catrige or it's normal ?
You should be OK. A new heater can smell a bit when she 1st heats up. However, if it smells REALLY strong, or smokes.... I'd have a look for a short.
@@3DRundownthanks, also any idea of model name or how to find it ? I need it for klipper
I only know it as the Spider 3. I run it on my 5+ with Sonic Pad.
Technically, you don't need the boot. I f you PID tune after install, you should be ok.
You 1000% need the boot
1000%? that's like a lot.
It's exactly 900% more than allot. For reals, you DO need the boot. It's an insulator. Your machine will need to work allot harder to heat and maintain a temperature, without it.
Hi! Nice video, thank you. I installed successfully, but at second day I started getting clogs in all my prints. Im printing PLA at 205°. I checked extruder gear, bowden tube, bed calibration, Z calibration + eccentrics, extruder motor steps, hotend PIDs and different PLA brands. My actual retraction settings are 5mm for distance, 45mm/s for retraction speed, and 10mm for minimum extrusion distance window. My printer is the Ender 3 classic, and I'm using Cura slicer. What could be the issue? Thanks a lot!
Have you tried a slower retraction? On my 5+, I run my spider at 5/25. Lemme check my 3 Max with Spider, soon as I'm back at my PC
@@3DRundown Can you perhaps share some insight on your slicer settings?
I am on an ender3v2 with this exact hotend and I keep getting clogs when printing with PETG. My current settings for retraction are 3mm distance (as suggested by the booklet accompanying the spider hotend) 35mm/s retraction speed and 10mm for minimum extrusion distance. I am using cura 5.8. I have tried multiple settings and speeds but nothing seems to fix my issue. I also tried increasing the temp a bit for the material. My current print speed is my default 50mm/s (I have experimented with speeds ranging from 25mm/s all the way up to 80mm/s - but the same problem persists) . I 've done my PID tuning and my esteps calibration, but again nothing.
The clogs seem to only occur after 1 hour and something of printing, sometimes a bit sooner if there are a lot of supports. There seems to be a gradual build of melted material going further up than it should in the heatbreak. I also tried switching to better fans.
I somehow feel that i am missing some setting or something that somehow relates to the high flow...Any ideas???
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I 've been stuck with this problem for over a month now....Essentially I switch back to either the stock hotend or my microswiss whenever I actually need to print something functional, and in my spare time I keep trying to tune in the spider v3 pro.
Did you ever figure out the nature of the problem?
I am facing a similar issue on my Ender3v2 but mostly when printing PETG.
The problem only seems to occur when printing stuff that take more than an hour and a half. Melted material seems to gradually build up in the hotend going progressively higher and higher.
Thanks in advance, for any input
@@Estariol87 hi! Yes. The problem was retraction settings. I set 2mm for retraction distance and 40mm/s for retraction speed. That worked for me! So, you can try doing retraction test, starting for retraction distance between 1 to 2 mm to check how much strings are in the test. Later, try setup the retraction speed between 30 to 40 mm/s to reduce much more the strings. Good luck!
@@satoshidave Thanks for the input!!! It's greatly appreciated!!!
i got an error on the nozzle, when trying to preheat it for a test run, i plugged the thermo sensor in and cut and soldiered the black adapter wires to the existing thermo wires that way i didnt have to dig into the motherboard with sealed plugs any ideas? is there a reverse polarity issue maybe? thanks Greg.
I don't think polarity matters, but, there is one way to test that..... Look at your Heater tube. Make sure that is wired up well.
@@3DRundownGreg it seems ok, I checked the motherboard connection on all connections. Still get err under the nozzle indicator on main 🥺 screen. When I do a PID adjustment what should they be set at? I've tried asking on Reddit. Just checking in PID, I have no clue and have never made any adjustments there.
Greg, it's ALIVE!!!! It was a solder connection lol. Thanks for everything.
For PID tuning. You don't change anything. Just run it, and the machine will do everything itself.
Will this hotend fit a CR-6 SE (strain guage)? Thanks.
I would have to check, but, I don't think so. I actually just got a CR6-SE hot end from Microswiss. I'll be installing on a 6 MAX shortly.
@@3DRundown thank you. imo, spider looks way cooler, but we can't see it anyway. Microswiss it is. I am also planning to upgrade to a ldo orbiter v2.0 direct drive. Anything I should worry about?
does anyone have problems with the bowden tube pushing itself out of the hotend. It keeps happening with mine and it stops my prints. Im going to install a directdrive so It cant pop out, but any ideas why this might be happening?
Not at all. Your couple has failed, or, you don't have the lock clip installed. Replace the coupler, or, install the clip
@3DRundown thank you for the help. I'm going to try it a few more times. If it is the coupler, I'll have to return it, which is a pain. But I just got an x1c and I'm in love with it.
Looking at my Spider 3, and seeing the coupler is not your typical coupler. I'm not entirely sure what the appropriate coupler replacement would be. Couplers have little teeth in them. When you depress the ring, they retract, when you insert the clip, they lock in place. If they tube was pulled on, without depressing, the teeth will be ruined. Email creality CS@CREALITY.COM, or Live chat after 9pm on Creality.com, and VERY CLEARLY IN BASIC ENGLISH, explain that the coupler is defective, and ask for a replacement. Send pics
Have Creality dropped the 500°C claims?
Who cares. Google it.
Not working for me. I use Ender 3 with 4.2.7. mboard and bltouch. When i printing allweys the print have horizontal lines. 😢
Spider should be ok for you. Do a PID Tune on Hotend and Motherboard. Use MRISCOC Firmware
@@3DRundown I did PID Tune. MRISCOC Firmware is only for Ender 3 v2 and S1.
I use this: marlin.crc.id.au/
@@3DRundown Thanks.
@@3DRundown It still doesn't work. All printed models have horizontal lines.
Installed a 4.2.7 board wtih cr touch on my original ender 3 and its been working very well except for one weird thing I noticed. Whenever I adjust my Z offset the printer doesnt move as im doing it, although the Z offset DOES apply to prints. So basically it takes me a lot of guessing and trial and error to get the right z offset everytime I change something. I'm assuming this is a software related issue?
You might be better off running a print, using a skirt, and baby stepping your Z from there. Then, when it's good, just choose SAVE.
However, consider better firmware. donate $2 to these guys, and use theirs: marlin.crc.id.au/
Here is a good way to mess with your baby stepping: th-cam.com/video/veZB415QHM0/w-d-xo.html
Truth be told, once you have it set fairly close, I always just use a print skirt, to finalize it. And, if it looks like it needs an adjustment at some point, I again, just use the skirt, or 1st layer of a print, to babystep it, and save from there.
@@3DRundown thanks
What Firmware are you using? I went over the MIRSCOC and it's been better. Though you have to disable something if you want to create a bed mesh larger than 5x5... If I remember correctly because the bed mesh itself gets errors the longer the CR/BR touch probe runs. I had a similar issue with Z offset constantly changing. I also altered my start and end G-Code to help with the issue as well. but it's been a while since I've touched the printer.
I use this: marlin.crc.id.au/
Also, I never use bigger than 5x5.
I remember now, It had to do with the "High Speed" mode. I turned it off.
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Any recommendations on slicer settings for this?
I reduced my Retractions to 5, and NOTHING ELSE. Running everyday. Not a clog in sight.
@@3DRundown I haven't had any clogs, my problem is now all my prints seem to be oblong on my X axis
I don't see how a Hotend change could effect that. Something else must be at play here....
@@3DRundown that's what I figure, but it's the only thing I changed recently
Check your Belts. Maybe one is loose. Tighten them a little
Im stuck not being able to go to 300°c because there's no software with bl touch
Get MRISCOC or Sonic Pad
@3D Rundown ok thank you ive been debating on getting the sonic pad
I have Sonic Pad on a CR6-Max and 5+. Working great on both
@3D Rundown is the set up hard or is it straight forward and simple
I literally had it runing on my 5+ in under 10 min, after putting it off for 2 months. It's very easy. Don't be intimidated. You can 100% do it. And you don't have to go crazy trying to print super fast and all that nonsense.
Does that hotend fit unadulterated on all Ender-3 models?
I do believe it does
@@3DRundown Cool. I just got mine tonight for my Neo Max, so hopefully that works! :)
Ok this upgrade does NOT fit on the Ender 3 neo max. The mounting screws line up perfectly but that is the only thing that does. The top of the hot end unit won't fit under the shroud so no biggie I dremmeled the shroud. But once I had that on I see the nozzle end doesn't extend far enough down to clear the shroud nor the cooling fan vent.
So I emailed them, again, ... but they are out on their 10 day national holiday...:( ... this is going to be a pain.
Yes, sadly, the NEO uses a bizzare cover. Print a new one from Printables
Why does everyone calibrate differently? I hate being new to 3d printing. This shit is confusing AF
Because some people do things the right way. Some the wrong way. And have nothing useful to do with their time or printers, so they massively over complicate things
@@3DRundown well I'm gonna assume you're doing it the right way then... Thanks btw, really helpful
top
A word of warning to fellow Ender 3 Max Neo users, this hotend will not fit your printer. Learned that the hard way. This will work with the rest of the ender 3 series
There are projects on Printables, working on this
@@3DRundown thank you for pointing that out, still new to the 3d printing scene. I'll be giving this a go since I already have it 😆
Working on install for E3 N Max. found printables, hopefully work well enough to print my new shroud design. Also using new thermistor. Be a couple days until I get finished. Then experiment time.
You might have an easier time with adhesion if you cleaned your bed once in the last decade.
Easier Time? These things couldn't possibly be easier. I can't remember the last time I had an "ADHESION" Issue. Jesus, what kind of dort uses that word, while trying feel cool on the internet? I have 20 machines, and shipped over 1400 items last year, most of the costing $50-$100) [Go ahead, do the math....]. You might want to consider a little time to educate before you look like a clown on the internet.
@@3DRundown You are kinda a dick.
Yup. Huge Dick. But I let your post out of the YT Spam filter, so, I guess I was feeling nice that day.
You defeated the purpose of the install by reusing the old thermistor. You can not run it to 300C with that thermistor or stock firmware! It is pointless to do this upgrade if you only print in PLA.
Lolz. Who uses Stock firmware on a Creality Printer!? I will not be using it for High Heat, or High Speed. "Pointless" is nonsense. That said, I can't, and won't, cover every base and topic in a single video. Nobody want's to dit through that
Actually, this is yet another fun fact with Creality. Not much data anywhere on the components. My Spider HF/HS Pro instructions say (gotta love this sh**) "When the terminal of the thermistor does not match the interface of the motherboard, you need to modify it yourself. Or use the original thermistor".
I see nothing wrong with this. If it's connector, is different than the MB you are using, you'll need to match it. OR, just splice it inline. This makes for wide and easy, compatability.
Piece of crap. Had two of these units, both spent more time clogged than melting plastic.
Zero clogs. Printing every day, several hours a day, since day one. Work on your Nozzle to Heat Break. Needs to be flush
I ended up buying one of these and at least the silicone holes are on both sides now . The only problem I'm having is filament is somehow leaking out between parts of the nozzle that aren't meant to have leaks. Creating huge messes that will build up all around that whole bottom square part. I wish I would have kept my old nozzle. But I was so excited I just threw it away after I installed this.
You have a gap between the heatbreak and the nozzle. Sure that up.
I thought the new thermistor was necessary, because the stock thermistor doesn't have the ability to work with any temps higher than the original hot end was capable of creating.
They looked the same to me, and I'm still using it to this day, but, if you believe that to be true, trust your judgement, and use the new thermistor.
Is there a link to a Creality installation video? I don't seem to be able to find one for this or the v2.0 non high flow one (which I bought and want to install).
I have a video on the Spider 3, on an Ender 3 MAX. Will be very similar.
Incredible tutorial video. Had to sub. Hope to see more like this.
Very well done, sir.
I just ordered mine so... yeaaah here we go. Always one more upgrade, right? yeesh.
Nicely done.
Thank you friend!! *DO NOT GET INTO UPGRADE CULTURE* it leads to too many problems, but, yes, these new hotends are awesome, and worth the install!
@@3DRundown LOL oh i went down the alice in wonderland of upgrades for my printer LOL definitely regretting it but I have learned so many things....mostly what NOT to do LOL!
What NOT to do, is generally what happens, when you dive down the upgrade rabbit hole!
I broke the glass Val is it still fin to uses the one that came with the kit
Rephrase that?
Would not do that. Use the new one. Accident waiting to happen. Home/hobbiest device or not, it is a device that has been know to have uhm, serious issues on certain failures.
I've never even scratched a glass bed.... 20+ of them