This video is completely saving my bacon. I have an older 7SS kit that I'm finishing and the 2010 vintage instructions get really vague about installing the plexi on the door frames. Fortunately I'd watched this a first time prior to attempting to follow the instructions and you're now with me step by step for the actual install. I'll definitely be ordering the butt rib closeouts too
Mallard and pintail calling. Someone likes the birds working the decoys and the blind, while freezing their asses off near daybreak, and the smell of Tules.
I am so glad I got this video to come back to to get myself motivated again. I have spent hours shaping the aluminium joggles, I just need to hysol it all together now. and then like you said, I am the ready for the wing build from scratch. NO quick build wing for me. So Verner yt channel Alex, I hope your wings are good, because thats who I will be copying .
When my last Dremel burned out after a week, I called them to complain. They told me to go buy a new one and put the burned out one back in the new packaging and bring it back. Great customer service
Great job explaining how to do things when plans often only show what to do, especially on the tedious stuff like cutting acrylic to fit. This should be a huge help to a lot of builders.
Great build, been using those "nutserts" for over 20 years, they work great and hold up well. Their only weakness is the material into which they're installed, metal is the best, aluminum the worst where you'd want to back them up with metal tab. I've never had the nutsert itself fail. Sure gives you a strong hold and a nice clean finish.
Hey Bryan, enjoying your build videos. The Fein saw works great for cutting acrylic. I used it when replacing all of the acrylic on my Highlander. Much faster and easier to cut to a line. FWIW.
Thx for doing these videos.... The attention to detail is amazing ...I do not have the resources not the abilities to do what you are ... Thank you great job...!!!
Glad I’m subscribed 👍🏻 Good vids. Great info. Can’t wait to start my kitfox!! Just finished my mosquito helicopter. Break in stage almost done. Then the wife will let me open the kitfox conex and roll it in the hanger.
You will occasionally pull threaaout on rivnuts. As for the rivet gun there should be an adjustment for the extra threads sticking out of the rivnut on the head of the rivet gun. And for the metal shavings buy a fixable head magnet to get out what falls inside of the frame.
5:00 fairly small diameter and fine thread combined with soft SS is always hard to get right. Also your cool air temp seems to make them stiffer. Keep nuts warm helps (unintentional joke). I just keep a handful in my pocket so body heat keeps them softer.
Hi Brian, Great videos. I've watched them all and am going back to watch them again now that I'm actually building my SS7.Did you end up buying longer screws for the rivnuts in the door?
@@BowenAero Thanks for getting back to me. Did you end up sanding down those welds on the door or did the weather strip create enough space that you didn't need to? I also sent you a message on your Bowenaero site regarding grips.
Side note: Rivnuts should be Keyed to keep them from spinning in the hole. Easy to do. With a small triangle file cut a small notch in the hole for the key to fit in.
John, good tip, I noticed after the fact that Aircraft Spruce offers both keyed and non-keyed. For the window it should be a one time install, so I'm not to concerned about it, but for an application where you would be removing the screw for cowlings or inspection covers, the keyed would be ideal.
My memory may be fooling me but I THINK if you open the handles on the rivet puller, that will allow you to fully seat the shank. It's necessary on rivets that you have to take a few pulls on.
I ordered my highlander kit with no powder coating. I choose to go with poly fiber ep420 epoxy primer and poly fiber mark 2 topcoat. I choose this because I also wanted all the metal black. The primer is easy to work with and spray. I can let you know how the mark 2 black top coat turns out. Im not quite finished priming everything yet.
I have most of my parts sprayed with the top coat now. It is the poly fiber mark 2 paint. It's a 2 part urathane paint. I find it easy to mix and easy to use. The finish is glossy. It is my first time using poly fiber paints and I would probably use it again on the next kit. I will only be painting the steel, some aluminum, and fiberglass parts on this kit. The fabric is going to be oratex.
I see you have a bunch of rc models in your garage do you still fly them once in a while? I have them hanging also but I made the hangers out PVC works well.
Grate ! I need to replase windoes in my anchunt Avid. Wunderphul Ideeas ! I appresyate your videeo ephorts. Do you put washers under the screw head, over the acrylic? If so, metal or plastic?
I wonder if it would be nice to paint a black stripe along the inside edge of the acrylic bubble where it lies against the frame. This is often done on automobile glass to hide bond line/adhesive unevennes, air bubbles, and other imperfections that might otherwise be seen through the glass (or plastic).
Brian.. Love the follow along videos. How can I find you guys or somebody so I can see the project or finished and ask questions. I live in the Sacramento area too.
Great video! I am really enjoying your project. Keep up the great work. I am looking forward to seeing how you handle the firewall forward portion of the build. What happened to the Stol Ratz intro?
@@BowenAero mm ok thanks. Well I have a S7 super sport on order to be delivered next January and have been watching your videos hoping I can learn a few things. Thanks for the content
Well done. You could have just notched the plexiglass around the protruding tabs on the top edge where the hinges mount. And, before grinding on those welds, I'd try and fit the weatherstripping in there first to see if it allows for the weld (I believe it will)..., if it doesn't, maybe just stop cut the weatherstripping on one side of the weld and restart the weatherstripping after the weld. The manufacturer left that weld protruding knowing it was getting weatherstripping and plexiglassed later. What is the plane at 7:30 ?
That could have worked too. I will test fit with the weather stripping and see if it clears the welds. That airplane is a Pilatus PC9. We were filming it from a Pilatus PC7.
@@BowenAero That Pilatus is a sleek, good looking bird! Thanks! I can't see any other reason for the manufacturer of the airframe to have left those welds proud unless they knew the acrylic would fit taking into account the compression of the weatherstripping (or starting and stopping straddling the weld). Happy flying, man!
@@BowenAero Btw, I have 25 years as an aircraft mechanic. From wing-tip to wing-tip, nose to tail. Systems (fuel, hydraulics, pneumatics, oxygen, nitrogen...etc), flight controls, powerplant, structures...etc. Mostly military programs. Marine Corps A-4, A-6. RAMS (Repair and Modification Services (Field Service) for McDonnell Douglas (Boeing) on the C-17. Just thought adding that might be a good idea in hindsight.
I'm getting a new airplane soon, and have a question for you. I'm sure you're aware of the thin plastic film that sticks to glass and plastic, and is pretty much always on glass and plastic [window/display/screen] surfaces of pretty much every electronic product sold these days. Well, I hate bugs and [fine cleaning] scratches on my windshield and door windows, and I figured the best way to deal with this is... to get big sheets of that thin plastic sheet and apply to the front windshield and door windows. As you're aware, this plastic sheet adheres to smooth glass and plastic without any adhesive... and leaves no residue whatsoever when peeled off. The thing is, I've never seen this material sold bulk or separate from products, but it must be available. And if you're anywhere as annoyed by gunk on your windshields and windows, I'll bet you'd like to do this on your airplane too. :-) If you even know the name of this material (anyone)... let me know in a reply. PS: It is great fun to watch you build your airplane. Keep up the good work.
@@BowenAero : I'm not surprised you never heard of that. I'm an inventor and new (and hopefully better) ideas pop into my head all the time. If I manage to track this down, I'll let you know. I've just been having trouble tracking down that specific plastic film I refer-to. I guess the Pledge trick is a bit like a cheap version of having a few molecule thick layer of teflon put on the windshield. Interesting idea. Somewhere I read about putting a super thin layer of ceramic on the paint of a new (or newly painted) airplane for similar reasons (to make it easier to clean). Not sure whether that is transparent, however.
Don't mount your doors and hinges until you have the wings and butt ribs mounted. The tabs where you mount the hinges will move once you mount your butt ribs and wings. This will make the doors not fit anymore, and the gas struts will be out of adjustment, and your door will hit the bottom of your wing.
Project Kitfox Thanks, would have thought they would crack where you drill the fixing holes as it is quiet close to the edge. I am busy experimenting with making polycarbonate doors using a vacuum table and drape mounding.
This video is completely saving my bacon. I have an older 7SS kit that I'm finishing and the 2010 vintage instructions get really vague about installing the plexi on the door frames. Fortunately I'd watched this a first time prior to attempting to follow the instructions and you're now with me step by step for the actual install. I'll definitely be ordering the butt rib closeouts too
Mallard and pintail calling. Someone likes the birds working the decoys and the blind, while freezing their asses off near daybreak, and the smell of Tules.
I am so glad I got this video to come back to to get myself motivated again. I have spent hours shaping the aluminium joggles, I just need to hysol it all together now. and then like you said, I am the ready for the wing build from scratch. NO quick build wing for me. So Verner yt channel Alex, I hope your wings are good, because thats who I will be copying .
The vacuum and washer tricks were super helpful! Thank you
When my last Dremel burned out after a week, I called them to complain. They told me to go buy a new one and put the burned out one back in the new packaging and bring it back. Great customer service
Great job explaining how to do things when plans often only show what to do, especially on the tedious stuff like cutting acrylic to fit. This should be a huge help to a lot of builders.
Your videos are most excellent. The bird calls are a real art form.
The bird calls... awesome.
Great videos Brian and so nice to watch content with no overuse of music! Keep them coming.
Awesome videos. Thanks for taking the time to film your build. This is a great resource for those of us considering taking on a project like this.
Great build, been using those "nutserts" for over 20 years, they work great and hold up well. Their only weakness is the material into which they're installed, metal is the best, aluminum the worst where you'd want to back them up with metal tab. I've never had the nutsert itself fail. Sure gives you a strong hold and a nice clean finish.
Hey Bryan, enjoying your build videos. The Fein saw works great for cutting acrylic. I used it when replacing all of the acrylic on my Highlander. Much faster and easier to cut to a line. FWIW.
Thx for doing these videos.... The attention to detail is amazing ...I do not have the resources not the abilities to do what you are ... Thank you great job...!!!
Glad I’m subscribed 👍🏻
Good vids. Great info. Can’t wait to start my kitfox!! Just finished my mosquito helicopter. Break in stage almost done. Then the wife will let me open the kitfox conex and roll it in the hanger.
Excellent, really enjoying your process!
The last part of your video,,,,, quacked me up!
Good job 👍 ! Gotta love the bird calls 🦆🦆🐥.
Best part.... flying the plane to home depot :)
They sure have a cool LZ. LOL
You will occasionally pull threaaout on rivnuts. As for the rivet gun there should be an adjustment for the extra threads sticking out of the rivnut on the head of the rivet gun. And for the metal shavings buy a fixable head magnet to get out what falls inside of the frame.
Very informative and entertaining- great work
5:00 fairly small diameter and fine thread combined with soft SS is always hard to get right. Also your cool air temp seems to make them stiffer. Keep nuts warm helps (unintentional joke). I just keep a handful in my pocket so body heat keeps them softer.
Bryan your garage is way to neat
I am working on that. There is fiberglass dust everywhere now.
I was really hoping for 4 doors.
Hi Brian, Great videos.
I've watched them all and am going back to watch them again now that I'm actually building my SS7.Did you end up buying longer screws for the rivnuts in the door?
Yes I did to account for the weather strips
@@BowenAero Thanks for getting back to me. Did you end up sanding down those welds on the door or did the weather strip create enough space that you didn't need to? I also sent you a message on your Bowenaero site regarding grips.
@@tman3587 The weather striping gave the clearance
Side note: Rivnuts should be Keyed to keep them from spinning in the hole. Easy to do. With a small triangle file cut a small notch in the hole for the key to fit in.
John, good tip, I noticed after the fact that Aircraft Spruce offers both keyed and non-keyed. For the window it should be a one time install, so I'm not to concerned about it, but for an application where you would be removing the screw for cowlings or inspection covers, the keyed would be ideal.
My memory may be fooling me but I THINK if you open the handles on the rivet puller, that will allow you to fully seat the shank. It's necessary on rivets that you have to take a few pulls on.
I ordered my highlander kit with no powder coating. I choose to go with poly fiber ep420 epoxy primer and poly fiber mark 2 topcoat. I choose this because I also wanted all the metal black. The primer is easy to work with and spray. I can let you know how the mark 2 black top coat turns out. Im not quite finished priming everything yet.
Please do
I have most of my parts sprayed with the top coat now. It is the poly fiber mark 2 paint. It's a 2 part urathane paint. I find it easy to mix and easy to use. The finish is glossy. It is my first time using poly fiber paints and I would probably use it again on the next kit. I will only be painting the steel, some aluminum, and fiberglass parts on this kit. The fabric is going to be oratex.
And bird calls. You have unsuspected depth! ;->
Thanks that helps i have not used them as of yet.
I see you have a bunch of rc models in your garage do you still fly them once in a while? I have them hanging also but I made the hangers out PVC works well.
Trying to get my boys interested in it. We have been flying them.
The Plane that flew over me was this one.... 7:41
super good videos my brother and i love watching ps have you thought about a fly echo or echo fly smart diesel for the power plant
Not too much. I am committed to the Yamaha APEX at this point.
Did the 1/2” screws end up being what you stayed with?
Still have not done the final mount with the weather stripping, but I will go to the longer screw I'm sure.
Use 2 part auto paint for your black. It comes out nice.
Any suggestions on brands?
What is the benefit of the bubble doors compared to the normal doors?
more shoulder room and you can use the door horizontal divider as an armrest.
Grate ! I need to replase windoes in my anchunt Avid. Wunderphul Ideeas ! I appresyate your videeo ephorts.
Do you put washers under the screw head, over the acrylic? If so, metal or plastic?
Thanks Brian! So I am assuming the 1/2 was too short so you re ordered 5/8?
Dustin, that is correct, I went to the longer 5/8 screw.
I wonder if it would be nice to paint a black stripe along the inside edge of the acrylic bubble where it lies against the frame. This is often done on automobile glass to hide bond line/adhesive unevennes, air bubbles, and other imperfections that might otherwise be seen through the glass (or plastic).
Jose that is a good idea. I think I will take some of the scrap acrylic and test paint it and see how it looks. Thanks for the suggestion.
Brian.. Love the follow along videos. How can I find you guys or somebody so I can see the project or finished and ask questions. I live in the Sacramento area too.
You can send me an email with your contact info to projectkitfox@gmail.com
Great video! I am really enjoying your project. Keep up the great work. I am looking forward to seeing how you handle the firewall forward portion of the build. What happened to the Stol Ratz intro?
Oh, I forgot to put it in.
Why not use an angle grinder to cut the acrylic?
I suppose you could, but they recommend the diamond cutting blades on a rotary tool.
@@BowenAero mm ok thanks. Well I have a S7 super sport on order to be delivered next January and have been watching your videos hoping I can learn a few things. Thanks for the content
Well done. You could have just notched the plexiglass around the protruding tabs on the top edge where the hinges mount. And, before grinding on those welds, I'd try and fit the weatherstripping in there first to see if it allows for the weld (I believe it will)..., if it doesn't, maybe just stop cut the weatherstripping on one side of the weld and restart the weatherstripping after the weld. The manufacturer left that weld protruding knowing it was getting weatherstripping and plexiglassed later. What is the plane at 7:30 ?
That could have worked too. I will test fit with the weather stripping and see if it clears the welds. That airplane is a Pilatus PC9. We were filming it from a Pilatus PC7.
@@BowenAero That Pilatus is a sleek, good looking bird! Thanks! I can't see any other reason for the manufacturer of the airframe to have left those welds proud unless they knew the acrylic would fit taking into account the compression of the weatherstripping (or starting and stopping straddling the weld). Happy flying, man!
@@BowenAero Btw, I have 25 years as an aircraft mechanic. From wing-tip to wing-tip, nose to tail. Systems (fuel, hydraulics, pneumatics, oxygen, nitrogen...etc), flight controls, powerplant, structures...etc. Mostly military programs. Marine Corps A-4, A-6. RAMS (Repair and Modification Services (Field Service) for McDonnell Douglas (Boeing) on the C-17. Just thought adding that might be a good idea in hindsight.
are you going to tint that acrylic?
I do have the tented Acrylic.
The bird whisperer.....
I'm getting a new airplane soon, and have a question for you. I'm sure you're aware of the thin plastic film that sticks to glass and plastic, and is pretty much always on glass and plastic [window/display/screen] surfaces of pretty much every electronic product sold these days. Well, I hate bugs and [fine cleaning] scratches on my windshield and door windows, and I figured the best way to deal with this is... to get big sheets of that thin plastic sheet and apply to the front windshield and door windows. As you're aware, this plastic sheet adheres to smooth glass and plastic without any adhesive... and leaves no residue whatsoever when peeled off.
The thing is, I've never seen this material sold bulk or separate from products, but it must be available. And if you're anywhere as annoyed by gunk on your windshields and windows, I'll bet you'd like to do this on your airplane too. :-) If you even know the name of this material (anyone)... let me know in a reply.
PS: It is great fun to watch you build your airplane. Keep up the good work.
Max, I haven't heard of anyone trying that. Personally I use Pledge on the wind screen, the wax makes it easy to clean off bugs.
@@BowenAero : I'm not surprised you never heard of that. I'm an inventor and new (and hopefully better) ideas pop into my head all the time. If I manage to track this down, I'll let you know. I've just been having trouble tracking down that specific plastic film I refer-to.
I guess the Pledge trick is a bit like a cheap version of having a few molecule thick layer of teflon put on the windshield. Interesting idea.
Somewhere I read about putting a super thin layer of ceramic on the paint of a new (or newly painted) airplane for similar reasons (to make it easier to clean). Not sure whether that is transparent, however.
Just got to the part about stripping the riv-nut, stainless steel is considered a soft metal, and is known for being easy to strip and cross thread.
Matt, yes you have to be very careful with these river-nuts, I would order them from Aircraft Spruce next time.
Did the bird calling to see if everyone watched to the end lol
on the rivnuts is there a difference between aluminum and steel or make a diffrents
I was told not to use aluminum. Using stainless screws with aluminum riv-nut can cause some issues.
Wouldn't a bandsaw be much easier to cut the windows?
I don't think so. They are pretty big to put through a bandsaw.
why didnt you just drill off the plexi with the door off . then trim to shape and fit door
Not sure what you mean.
Don't mount your doors and hinges until you have the wings and butt ribs mounted. The tabs where you mount the hinges will move once you mount your butt ribs and wings. This will make the doors not fit anymore, and the gas struts will be out of adjustment, and your door will hit the bottom of your wing.
Thank you for the tip and explanation. Someone else had mentioned this but didn't explain why.
Just a question are the kit fox doors acrylic or polycarbonate?
The bubble doors are acrylic.
Project Kitfox Thanks, would have thought they would crack where you drill the fixing holes as it is quiet close to the edge. I am busy experimenting with making polycarbonate doors using a vacuum table and drape mounding.
Do any turkey hunting?
Absolutely, but those calls don't seem to help much, LOL, still working on it.
Don't know why but I kept loosing audio at around 3:30.
Just checked it and it seems to be working on this end. Maybe give it another try.