I had to bleed my Ekar groupset. Front brake was no problem. But no matter what I do, I cannot get the rear brake to feel crisp. It seems there's always some air in the system, no matter what I do. I'm starting to think that I have a leak somewhere. But I can't find any oil residue. Any tips? I've read elsewhere about people having faulty master cylinders on SR and Chorus groupsets. Maybe that's my problem, too?
@ There was air trapped in the caliper. After I rode the bike, the vibrations caused the air to move up to the brake lever. One quick bleed after that and all good.
@@sebastianm2381 Thank you,. I had to bleed my rear brake as well, and it worked fine for one ride, but the next day there was air in the system again. How was your first bleed different from the second? After all, there was already air in the system both times, right?
Available from bike24.com if you're in Europe, otherwise just make a block using cut up credit cards glued together. If you have a micrometer just use that to get the right thickness.
Hmm the caliper bleed valve screw is 2.5mm coming out th-cam.com/video/WQk-pUPKOqk/w-d-xo.html and 4mm going back in th-cam.com/video/WQk-pUPKOqk/w-d-xo.html :)
Aren't the road braking systems common across the Campag range? I just bought a used Potenza groupset and reviews I read of it before buying stated that the hydraulic brake calipers are the same for all Campag groupsets.
I had to bleed my Ekar groupset. Front brake was no problem. But no matter what I do, I cannot get the rear brake to feel crisp. It seems there's always some air in the system, no matter what I do. I'm starting to think that I have a leak somewhere. But I can't find any oil residue. Any tips? I've read elsewhere about people having faulty master cylinders on SR and Chorus groupsets. Maybe that's my problem, too?
Did you find a solution?
@ There was air trapped in the caliper. After I rode the bike, the vibrations caused the air to move up to the brake lever. One quick bleed after that and all good.
@@sebastianm2381 Thank you,.
I had to bleed my rear brake as well, and it worked fine for one ride, but the next day there was air in the system again. How was your first bleed different from the second? After all, there was already air in the system both times, right?
Turn the Yellow travel spacer around and there you have your bleed block...
That's literally what I was wondering. Did you try it? Does it work?
@@Arrynek01 I have used it in a pinch, definitely not as good as the new Blue Oil Level tool but in a pinch it will do.
Is that stop block necessary? Can i just do it with pads installed and add the yellow travel spacer? I can't find those stop blocks anywhere for sale.
Dany AL CA
Available from bike24.com if you're in Europe, otherwise just make a block using cut up credit cards glued together. If you have a micrometer just use that to get the right thickness.
Which is 10.48 mm, or 13.8 credit cards. Mine came with the blocks.
how many torque wrenches does this guy have?
all of them haha
why is their alcohol red?
Hmm the caliper bleed valve screw is 2.5mm coming out th-cam.com/video/WQk-pUPKOqk/w-d-xo.html and 4mm going back in th-cam.com/video/WQk-pUPKOqk/w-d-xo.html :)
What tool is adjusting the S screw and the reach adjust?
I just bought the 0.5nm fixed torque screwdriver which is expensive
Disappointed that this doesn't cover 12 speed Chorus. Some things just aren't the same.
Aren't the road braking systems common across the Campag range? I just bought a used Potenza groupset and reviews I read of it before buying stated that the hydraulic brake calipers are the same for all Campag groupsets.
This looks simpler than Shimano but I think I'll still leave it to a bike shop 😊