Here is a list of tools used in this repair: - 1/2" drive impact wrench - 14mm 3/8 drive socket - 14mm 3/8 drive long socket - 3/8 drive ratchet - 10mm 3/8 drive socket - 1/2" drive 32mm socket - various 3/8 drive ratchet extensions - slide hammer set (Harbor Freight # 60327) - Torque wrench (must be able to torque to 200+ ft/lbs)
Thank you for the video. I have a 2006 endeavor and didn't need the 32mm as there is not a nut behind the rotor. Also, push bolts for the rotor are M8.
I have has a 2004 since 2004. Just had this done. Beside regular maintenance, I have had no problems with it.It has 195,000 miles and still runs great. I do change my oil every 3,000 miles
Great video. So much good info here. Thanks for the warning about the ABS wire. Just ordered all 4 hub assemblies for my 2006 Endeavor . Two are definitively bad. Might as well replace them all. I'll let you know how it goes.
Got my hubs yesterday. Going to get started installing them today. As I mentioned before - thanks for the video. I have one question before I get started. Is there any chance I'll mess up the lug bolt threads using a pry bar like you did? Or did you put the log nuts on and use those to protect the threads? Thanks again.
I used lug nuts to protect the threads when I did the final torque of the axle nut. I definitely recommend that to protect the lug nut threads. Have a great day.
Only question I have about this job, as I need to do it pretty soon...how long did this job actually take you? I know it was a while ago, but just trying to make sure I allot the correct amount of time to doing it if everything goes smoothly lol
Without filming the repair process, it can be completed in about 1.5 to 2 hours if you have immediate access to all the tools and part. Thanks for watching.
My '04 Endeavor XLS FWD is starting to have a low rumble at the rear and a little at the front (I have new tires, so it's not that). I'm looking at doing struts, shocks springs and bearings all at the same time here soon. Thanks for the guide.
Thanks for viewing Xoza!. Yep, sounds like your rear bearing may be starting to go. Its usually a low rumble at lower speeds. Good to catch it early if you can. If you're going to replace all of those items at once, you may want to consider RockAuto.com as they have very good pricing for those components. Good luck and be safe.
Excellent job . I look at some 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor on Craigslist with 170,000 mileages on it with wheel bearing need to be replacement but i wondering how reliable Endeavor is with that high mileage? Thank you for making the video and if you can put tools you had used for the job in description ,, i am much appreciate . Thanks again.
Thanks Kent. Our Endeavor currently has 155,000 miles on it and is still going strong. Its been a reliable vehicle except we did have to have the transmission rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. Also, if you aren't aware, you cannot service the fluid in these transmissions without removing it first and cracking the trans case open. I have listed the tools used for this repair above in a separate entry. Thanks for viewing.
$3281 out the door. Also, these are special transmissions that require very special fluid not found in parts stores. Also, it is not drainable and replaceable like other typical transmissions. Sorry for the delayed response.
Im original owner of my 2004 and am at 192000 miles and going strong. Am replacing my rear bearings tomorrow. bear in mind I do all my oil changes at 2500 miles or less and add sea foam to oil and gas, great stuff.
I have an 04 that has had 1 front and 1 rear bearing replaced. Now we are hearing that propeller noise from the rear again but can't tell which side. We do notice on sweeping turns to the right the noise goes away then returns back when going straight. You think this is the drivers side bearing? Thanks for any help. I think I will do this one myself due to your video.
Generally when you are making right turns the load forces are on the left side of the vehicle so I would have to agree that something is happening on the drivers side. If you can do it safely, you might have someone sit in the rear cargo area on a short road trip and listen for what side the noise is coming from just to confirm. Obviously you don't want to be out too long as the rider in the back has no seatbelt. Hope that helps.
Dear Paul, I have a 2006 Mitsubishi and while driving i hear a whistling noise that seems to be coming from behind, also i hear a rattling cranking noise still from behind, i have changed the sway bar link for both back wheels but the noise still persist. Will really appreciate your expert advise on what can be the cause.
Solomon - when my Mitsubishi Endeavor was having problems with the rear wheel bearing, it made a high pitched whining noise. Don't know if that's the same as your whistling noise though. Does the noise get louder and more high pitched as you drive faster? If it does you may possibly have a bad rear wheel bearing or it may be related to something that is rotating with the axle and/or wheel assembly. You'll need to determine if it's coming from the right or left side (or both). Most rattling issues are from something loose or broken. You'll need to thoroughly inspect the rear suspension, brakes, exhaust system. Since it is impossible to diagnose your vehicle without having it in front of me, I hope the info above will help you determine what the issue is or at least head you in the right direction. Thanks for viewing and take care.
Solomon, that is exactly what i had, mine was so bad it sounded like the old school roller skates with metal wheels when at low speed. And if you jack the back your tires will rock a little like thye will come off
Interesting, because the CV axle and wheel hub/bearing assemblys are the same for the 2004 and the 2011 model. Unchanged during the entire production run at Mitsubishi.
@@NWPencrawler Hey thanks for the reply. Perhaps the previous owner installed after market boots. (?) They are conspicuously clean in comparison to the rest of the underside. You're inspiring me to get back under and give it another go. Maybe I forgot to stick my tongue out. Thanks.
@@GeorgeOrwell-ek7sf Awesome! glad it worked out for you. Possibly they had aftermarket boots of a larger diameter which caused the blockage. Have a good day.
Yes, it is. It usually happens on higher-mileage Endeavors (around 140,000+ miles) but could happen sooner depending on wear. When I changed mine for this video I was at about 160,000 miles
Here is a list of tools used in this repair:
- 1/2" drive impact wrench
- 14mm 3/8 drive socket
- 14mm 3/8 drive long socket
- 3/8 drive ratchet
- 10mm 3/8 drive socket
- 1/2" drive 32mm socket
- various 3/8 drive ratchet extensions
- slide hammer set (Harbor Freight # 60327)
- Torque wrench (must be able to torque to 200+ ft/lbs)
Thank you for the video. I have a 2006 endeavor and didn't need the 32mm as there is not a nut behind the rotor. Also, push bolts for the rotor are M8.
I have has a 2004 since 2004. Just had this done. Beside regular maintenance, I have had no problems with it.It has 195,000 miles and still runs great. I do change my oil every 3,000 miles
Veda - just curious, were you hearing the high pitched whining sound coming from the rear of the vehicle just before you had it serviced?
Great video. So much good info here. Thanks for the warning about the ABS wire.
Just ordered all 4 hub assemblies for my 2006 Endeavor . Two are definitively bad. Might as well replace them all. I'll let you know how it goes.
You're welcome and glad it was helpful!
Got my hubs yesterday. Going to get started installing them today. As I mentioned before - thanks for the video. I have one question before I get started.
Is there any chance I'll mess up the lug bolt threads using a pry bar like you did? Or did you put the log nuts on and use those to protect the threads?
Thanks again.
I used lug nuts to protect the threads when I did the final torque of the axle nut. I definitely recommend that to protect the lug nut threads. Have a great day.
Only question I have about this job, as I need to do it pretty soon...how long did this job actually take you? I know it was a while ago, but just trying to make sure I allot the correct amount of time to doing it if everything goes smoothly lol
Without filming the repair process, it can be completed in about 1.5 to 2 hours if you have immediate access to all the tools and part. Thanks for watching.
My '04 Endeavor XLS FWD is starting to have a low rumble at the rear and a little at the front (I have new tires, so it's not that). I'm looking at doing struts, shocks springs and bearings all at the same time here soon. Thanks for the guide.
Thanks for viewing Xoza!. Yep, sounds like your rear bearing may be starting to go. Its usually a low rumble at lower speeds. Good to catch it early if you can. If you're going to replace all of those items at once, you may want to consider RockAuto.com as they have very good pricing for those components. Good luck and be safe.
Did you had to take the cv boot out or the screws loose is enought
Carlos, taking the 4 bolts out that hold the bearing flange in is enough. You do not need to remove the CV boot or axle.
Excellent job . I look at some 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor on Craigslist with 170,000 mileages on it with wheel bearing need to be replacement but i wondering how reliable Endeavor is with that high mileage? Thank you for making the video and if you can put tools you had used for the job in description ,, i am much appreciate . Thanks again.
Thanks Kent. Our Endeavor currently has 155,000 miles on it and is still going strong. Its been a reliable vehicle except we did have to have the transmission rebuilt about 2000 miles ago. Also, if you aren't aware, you cannot service the fluid in these transmissions without removing it first and cracking the trans case open. I have listed the tools used for this repair above in a separate entry. Thanks for viewing.
My endeavor 2004 had 194,000 and runs like new.
How much 2as the transmission rebuild
$3281 out the door. Also, these are special transmissions that require very special fluid not found in parts stores. Also, it is not drainable and replaceable like other typical transmissions. Sorry for the delayed response.
Im original owner of my 2004 and am at 192000 miles and going strong. Am replacing my rear bearings tomorrow. bear in mind I do all my oil changes at 2500 miles or less and add sea foam to oil and gas, great stuff.
I have an 04 that has had 1 front and 1 rear bearing replaced. Now we are hearing that propeller noise from the rear again but can't tell which side. We do notice on sweeping turns to the right the noise goes away then returns back when going straight. You think this is the drivers side bearing? Thanks for any help. I think I will do this one myself due to your video.
Generally when you are making right turns the load forces are on the left side of the vehicle so I would have to agree that something is happening on the drivers side. If you can do it safely, you might have someone sit in the rear cargo area on a short road trip and listen for what side the noise is coming from just to confirm. Obviously you don't want to be out too long as the rider in the back has no seatbelt. Hope that helps.
Always good to replace both at same time
Dear Paul,
I have a 2006 Mitsubishi and while driving i hear a whistling noise that seems to be coming from behind, also i hear a rattling cranking noise still from behind, i have changed the sway bar link for both back wheels but the noise still persist. Will really appreciate your expert advise on what can be the cause.
Solomon - when my Mitsubishi Endeavor was having problems with the rear wheel bearing, it made a high pitched whining noise. Don't know if that's the same as your whistling noise though. Does the noise get louder and more high pitched as you drive faster? If it does you may possibly have a bad rear wheel bearing or it may be related to something that is rotating with the axle and/or wheel assembly. You'll need to determine if it's coming from the right or left side (or both). Most rattling issues are from something loose or broken. You'll need to thoroughly inspect the rear suspension, brakes, exhaust system.
Since it is impossible to diagnose your vehicle without having it in front of me, I hope the info above will help you determine what the issue is or at least head you in the right direction. Thanks for viewing and take care.
Solomon, that is exactly what i had, mine was so bad it sounded like the old school roller skates with metal wheels when at low speed. And if you jack the back your tires will rock a little like thye will come off
My 2011 denies me access to the bearing hub bolts. The cv boot is in the way.
Interesting, because the CV axle and wheel hub/bearing assemblys are the same for the 2004 and the 2011 model. Unchanged during the entire production run at Mitsubishi.
@@NWPencrawler Hey thanks for the reply. Perhaps the previous owner installed after market boots. (?) They are conspicuously clean in comparison to the rest of the underside.
You're inspiring me to get back under and give it another go.
Maybe I forgot to stick my tongue out.
Thanks.
@@NWPencrawler Thanks brother. I put the impact aside and was able to finesse a standard socket in there and crack them loose.
@@GeorgeOrwell-ek7sf Awesome! glad it worked out for you. Possibly they had aftermarket boots of a larger diameter which caused the blockage. Have a good day.
Cool cool thank you! :)
No just a roaring noise like a air plane
It's this a common problem in this vehicle?
Yes, it is. It usually happens on higher-mileage Endeavors (around 140,000+ miles) but could happen sooner depending on wear. When I changed mine for this video I was at about 160,000 miles
Changing ours at 115,000. But it's the first major repair, so I can't complain.
Is this a AWD
Yes, this particular vehicle was AWD. Thanks for watching.
Very good
Thanks Patrick!