Have to admit I was surprised BD1N has better rust resistance than S30V. It would have been interesting to see how VG-10 compared on the rust testing since you just compared BD1N and VG-10 for edge retention. Thanks for doing all this testing. It's always better to have facts instead of opinions.
I just bought Benchmade's Custom Crooked River with 20CV and you're little test definitely makes me think I bought the right steel!! I absolutely love my 810 with M390, but this is my first time having a knife with 20CV. As much as I feel sorry for your knives right now, thank you very much for doing this test.
Spydie logo etching rusts because the steel can't form a passive layer as easy, laser exposes and creates more flaws in the grain structure leaving more bare Fe exposed
Oh man, you get extra bonus points today for the Tolkien reference! When I was teaching English in my first year, I got many of my students hooked on Middle-earth. I showed then the Angerthas letters in the back of The Return of the King, and by the Christmas break I was intercepting full page notes written in the Elvish characters.
Thanks for your testing, I sold all my sprint runs manixs and para, Im not going to take a chance to have them rust. I replaced them with spyderco salt series, not as great of a steel but absolutely rust resistant. Live the salt life on a sailboat these knives are a must. I wasn’t aware of the Nitrobe77 steel, Ill take a look into it
Great stuff. I appreciate all your testing. To me given your cut tests and this test the BD1N is doing well. The Spyderco Para 3 LW is looking good for the price point given the steel and the overall knife is awesome. Thanks.
Hmmm, the 20CV didn't have the laser etching in the solution. I'm guessing it would rust more if this were true. Impressive that the solution didn't do a thing to etching in Nitrobe77.
Informative and useful, as always, Pete. Regarding your cold/flu, I will recommend a good ol' Southern elixir from the States: A double shot of grain alcohol (Spirytus) with three dollops of HOT sauce, honey, ginger, squeeze of lemon. Shoot that, run through the yard until your sweating, then ice cold shower. All I can say is it works, mate, haha.
Thanks for your sacrifice!! That nitrobe 77 is no joke! 20cv surprised me. Have you tested the 20cv on the atom? I was wondering if it would react the same way. Take care Pete
Looking forward to cut test on nitrobe 77. Would be interested in getting more blades from Gary Creely but had such an unpleasant experience with the first one it doesn’t seem worth it.
Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors after making the order I sent an email with my preferences with regards to the handle, got an email back saying he would contact me when he was working on my knife for the details. So I waited, was delayed several months but that’s fair enough with custom maker, then he did loads in a short space of time before going on holiday. Gave him my preferences again when he contacted me and then the knife I received did not have the setup I requested. It also appeared to have been rushed as the angles and lines on the blade were not great. When I got back in contact he said he would organise postage back after his holiday, and after his holiday he had forgotten this and got annoyed with me when I pointed it out. At this point it had been well over a year from order date and I decided to get the handle done somewhere else just to get the whole thing over with.
Nice video man. Question how do YOU personally remove these rust spots from your knives? I cut up multiple limes one night with my R2D2 and had little rust spots everywhere. Could not find a much information online how to remove this. Tried a pencil/eraser/oil even sand paper. I will add the sandpaper totaled my satin blade lol. Big dumb on my part but a 40$ knife not too worried. But I definitely am concerned if I run into this in the future.
I’ve never heard of nitrobe before. How is it as far as hardness, toughness and edge holding compared to the others? Have you ever tried Spyderco’s H1? I’ve heard that’s almost 100% stain/rust proof. I’ve also heard VG10 is very good as far as corrosion resistance.
hello, since i lost much of my expensive high carbon tools to strangerrust i've got into knives and steels and switched my other tools to inox steel. long story short, i'm afraid to put s30vn in my pocket and edc it - question is: do you know if die dlc coating of spyderco improves the rust resistence or is it just for astectics?
DLC will prevent corrosion very well, it will not chip off and will protect the blade nicely. S30v is a stainless steel anyway so unless it should be fine.
Can someone enlighten me why it rusted at Sal's mark and Spyderco logo and why Spyderco continue to do things this way (when they know it will be the point of corrosion)?
Please do a Nirtobe 77 cut test. I live the steel for everyday use, high edge stability and toughness, takes an extremely keen edge (one if the best I've ever got), high corrosion resistance, holds it's edge pretty well(s30v/s35vn class at 62.5hrc )and sharpens up pretty fast. If not for it's high price and complex heat treat it would be a great steel.
S110V *should* have more chromium sitting on the surface than 20CV, but in nearly every test with Spyderco blades the logo etch will "bleed." I wonder if there's steel migrating out from the logo on that PM2 to make those marks. Are they pitted, or just discolored on the surface? (I've seen slight pitting on my 204P PM2 over the years, but my skin/sweat chemistry will discolor M4 within a day of IWB carry.)
Why do the makers marks rust much more rapidly than the blade surface? Is it the textured surface inside the engraving or maybe just the colouring process that makes it black?
Not the first time the Spydie has takin a dump on a blade! & Winner- Nitrobe77, a completely rust proof steel with an incredibly fine grain structure capable of high hardness unlike the others in its class... and it's being discontinued! 😭
@@kgrimm5576 Des Horn uses it a lot, he's a master at heat treating it. I have a Carson Tech Griffin with it and it's one of my go to knives. Some custom makers have used it lately, Big Chris made knives out of it and so did Big Brown Bear. I'm sure you'll like it when you get it. It reminds me of a super stainless 52100 with a lil better edge retention and takes an even finer edge.
Fuh Q only had 6 cups hehe. Also the nitrobe77 is doing the ‘rust free’ control work. You can see how lc200 goes in previous ones if you search ‘cedricada rust test’
@@CedricAda I know...I just love that steel. Thanks so much again for your work I watch all your vids. I love your channel. God bless your family God bless Ireland. And Australia too i guess i just always say God bless Ireland out of habit.
Thanks for doing this, feel better
Have to admit I was surprised BD1N has better rust resistance than S30V. It would have been interesting to see how VG-10 compared on the rust testing since you just compared BD1N and VG-10 for edge retention. Thanks for doing all this testing. It's always better to have facts instead of opinions.
I'm really glad you do this so I dont have to.
Love rust resistance tests!
Thanks for sacrificing your knives. 20cv and variations still best all around
I just bought Benchmade's Custom Crooked River with 20CV and you're little test definitely makes me think I bought the right steel!! I absolutely love my 810 with M390, but this is my first time having a knife with 20CV. As much as I feel sorry for your knives right now, thank you very much for doing this test.
Excellent. Thanks for the testing. Hope you feel better soon.
hey peter would you be open to doing a sharpness test after a rust test to see the effect on a blade where it matters most
Nice to see how well s110v does. Thanks for this test.
They make it look like the little spider has the runs.
DIARRHEA CHA CHA CHA
Metal Effort....The Glasser’s had the same reaction after this video.....🤔
Lmao
Spydie logo etching rusts because the steel can't form a passive layer as easy, laser exposes and creates more flaws in the grain structure leaving more bare Fe exposed
Preproto....let’s see if they change that. I didn’t like the 💩 stains on the Spidey! 👍🏻
Oh man, you get extra bonus points today for the Tolkien reference! When I was teaching English in my first year, I got many of my students hooked on Middle-earth. I showed then the Angerthas letters in the back of The Return of the King, and by the Christmas break I was intercepting full page notes written in the Elvish characters.
Thanks for your testing, I sold all my sprint runs manixs and para, Im not going to take a chance to have them rust. I replaced them with spyderco salt series, not as great of a steel but absolutely rust resistant. Live the salt life on a sailboat these knives are a must. I wasn’t aware of the Nitrobe77 steel, Ill take a look into it
Feel better Pete!!
Great stuff. I appreciate all your testing. To me given your cut tests and this test the BD1N is doing well. The Spyderco Para 3 LW is looking good for the price point given the steel and the overall knife is awesome. Thanks.
Hope you feel better soon.
Really awesome video!!! :D
Top Job Pete!!!
Feel better soon boo
Very interesting video! Thanks!!! Hope you get well soon!
Get well soon Pete.
Woo Hoo! The test I’ve been waiting for! THANK YOU!
Hmmm, the 20CV didn't have the laser etching in the solution. I'm guessing it would rust more if this were true. Impressive that the solution didn't do a thing to etching in Nitrobe77.
That took BALLS! 🤭
More great 411.....Thx
Pooor M4😢 👍🏻
Thank you!
Informative and useful, as always, Pete.
Regarding your cold/flu, I will recommend a good ol' Southern elixir from the States:
A double shot of grain alcohol (Spirytus) with three dollops of HOT sauce, honey, ginger, squeeze of lemon. Shoot that, run through the yard until your sweating, then ice cold shower. All I can say is it works, mate, haha.
D4md Cykey that sounds crazy enough to work!
Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors
Use ethanol not blue spiritus
@@CedricAda Eat some fresh pineapple every day and you will never be sick again. Changed my life!
godfather USA Bet it changed your bowels too.
You freaked me out, that’s some serious $$$ in that salt water, hopefully it’ll buff out
The rooster was a nice touch
Time for a mirror polish on that M4 :)
Thanks for your sacrifice!! That nitrobe 77 is no joke! 20cv surprised me. Have you tested the 20cv on the atom? I was wondering if it would react the same way. Take care Pete
That mantra deserves a Medal of Honor after all the tests you’ve put it through and the knowledge it’s helped this community learn!
Beautiful undertale music, took me by surprise.
So how do you fix these knives when rust is just starting?
Looking forward to cut test on nitrobe 77. Would be interested in getting more blades from Gary Creely but had such an unpleasant experience with the first one it doesn’t seem worth it.
Gorebashed oh no! what happened?
Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors after making the order I sent an email with my preferences with regards to the handle, got an email back saying he would contact me when he was working on my knife for the details. So I waited, was delayed several months but that’s fair enough with custom maker, then he did loads in a short space of time before going on holiday. Gave him my preferences again when he contacted me and then the knife I received did not have the setup I requested. It also appeared to have been rushed as the angles and lines on the blade were not great. When I got back in contact he said he would organise postage back after his holiday, and after his holiday he had forgotten this and got annoyed with me when I pointed it out. At this point it had been well over a year from order date and I decided to get the handle done somewhere else just to get the whole thing over with.
Nice video man. Question how do YOU personally remove these rust spots from your knives?
I cut up multiple limes one night with my R2D2 and had little rust spots everywhere. Could not find a much information online how to remove this. Tried a pencil/eraser/oil even sand paper. I will add the sandpaper totaled my satin blade lol. Big dumb on my part but a 40$ knife not too worried. But I definitely am concerned if I run into this in the future.
I’ve never heard of nitrobe before. How is it as far as hardness, toughness and edge holding compared to the others? Have you ever tried Spyderco’s H1? I’ve heard that’s almost 100% stain/rust proof. I’ve also heard VG10 is very good as far as corrosion resistance.
hello, since i lost much of my expensive high carbon tools to strangerrust i've got into knives and steels and switched my other tools to inox steel.
long story short, i'm afraid to put s30vn in my pocket and edc it - question is: do you know if die dlc coating of spyderco improves the rust resistence or is it just for astectics?
DLC will prevent corrosion very well, it will not chip off and will protect the blade nicely. S30v is a stainless steel anyway so unless it should be fine.
Can someone enlighten me why it rusted at Sal's mark and Spyderco logo and why Spyderco continue to do things this way (when they know it will be the point of corrosion)?
To be fair the 20cv didn’t have any engravings I’m curious how the 20cv would do with a laser etching as well ?
How would they do compared to 440?
👍
Thanks for the test. Did they mostly clean up with a sponge and soap?
Nitrob looks like the salt water “cleaned” it some
Please do a Nirtobe 77 cut test. I live the steel for everyday use, high edge stability and toughness, takes an extremely keen edge (one if the best I've ever got), high corrosion resistance, holds it's edge pretty well(s30v/s35vn class at 62.5hrc )and sharpens up pretty fast. If not for it's high price and complex heat treat it would be a great steel.
Nitrobe 77 was a creely blade ?
Moral of this story....don't leave your knives in salt water overnight.
I’d recommend trying a slow rust bluing process for the M4 blade.
This is a great vid. Maybe next time put a fan on them to promote oxygen exposure and simulate wind as well
I wish you stocked your “new materials” merch in tall sizes 😞
Fish Abyss its all the Teespring allows unfortunately!
@@CedricAda Would you be interested in doing a video on the new fallkniven sk2,, if I send you one...??
I’m impressed by 20CV’s rust resistance.
Rust needs oxygen to form. Best to spray the blades with saltwater a few times a day.
Lc200n??
Salt and or salt water isn't what makes steel rust ! Salt air makes steel oxidize ! Air is oxidation
So why did they rust then if they were left underwater the whole time? 🤦♂️
S110V *should* have more chromium sitting on the surface than 20CV, but in nearly every test with Spyderco blades the logo etch will "bleed." I wonder if there's steel migrating out from the logo on that PM2 to make those marks. Are they pitted, or just discolored on the surface?
(I've seen slight pitting on my 204P PM2 over the years, but my skin/sweat chemistry will discolor M4 within a day of IWB carry.)
Can you test the edge of the mora garberg in carbon steel?
He's already tested mora carbon steel
ANTIMATTER THE DESTROYER OF WORLDS it may be better steel
@@alexgroezinger762 I'm pretty sure it's the same, he might have even tested the garberg at one point, search his older videos
Why do the makers marks rust much more rapidly than the blade surface? Is it the textured surface inside the engraving or maybe just the colouring process that makes it black?
Not 100% sure but I believe that polished metal takes longer to rust, and the colouring on the maker’s mark comes from acid etching.
Grey Holm i would guess he ultra increased surface area on the etch. makes the steel have lots of little pores for the water/salt to get into
Grey Holm
The etching is lasered
Lasering is burning away steel
Burning away steel is oxidising steel
Death Note Music what up
Very painful to watch 😬 but thanks for doing it
Nitrobe 77 - what knife is that? Who makes it?
Would have been great to compare them with cheaper steels like D2 and why not Sandvik (Mora) stainless.
Not the first time the Spydie has takin a dump on a blade! & Winner- Nitrobe77, a completely rust proof steel with an incredibly fine grain structure capable of high hardness unlike the others in its class... and it's being discontinued! 😭
I love it, takes a great edge. Too bad that it's expensive and a pain to heat treat, otherwise we'd see more if it.
@@D00MTR33 havnt had the pleasure yet, getting some soon tho. Been seeing it lately with customs cause discontinuance, rare unicorn steel indeed : )
@@kgrimm5576 Des Horn uses it a lot, he's a master at heat treating it. I have a Carson Tech Griffin with it and it's one of my go to knives. Some custom makers have used it lately, Big Chris made knives out of it and so did Big Brown Bear. I'm sure you'll like it when you get it. It reminds me of a super stainless 52100 with a lil better edge retention and takes an even finer edge.
the spyder logo is rusting more because of increased surface area
Why no LC200N?
Fuh Q only had 6 cups hehe. Also the nitrobe77 is doing the ‘rust free’ control work. You can see how lc200 goes in previous ones if you search ‘cedricada rust test’
@@CedricAda I know...I just love that steel. Thanks so much again for your work I watch all your vids. I love your channel. God bless your family God bless Ireland. And Australia too i guess i just always say God bless Ireland out of habit.
@@CedricAda Get more cups mate.
When that Mantra finally dies you better fuckin give it a proper burial in dessicant packets and send off with Aerith's Theme
First!
DJHamburgla Yes you are lol
Hello. can you make russian subtitles in your videos, please?
Вы использовали Google Translate? Это легко и хорошо работает.
Poor m4.. It's been your control subject for most of your rust videos.. why don't you just use a Mora carbon instead of that poor mantra?
im prone2fall Dunno, just hoping to show a bunch of comparable pocmet knives I guess
Throws away Boker Vox F3 Ti with s30v. God damn useless steel.
Shameful way to tarnish one's image for the M4
That poor M4.