Thanks for sharing your experience. I inherited a Model T from my dad when he passed away. I was never much of a mechanic, but I've had to step it up a bit to keep this car going. It is always nice to see someone else's trials and learn something new.
Great information! It's comforting to know I wasn't the only one who had a devil of a time reaming the valve guides, I did some really sinful things to get the job done. I also spent two weeks spinning that stick with a suction cup on the end to "fix up" my valve seats. Cheers from the Shed.
Enjoy watching & learning on your videos about Model T's. Your do an excellent job of explaining & teaching. I don't own a Model T but hope to get a Model A in the near future. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks. These videos are fun to make. You can look forward to Model A content on this channel in the future too! My brother is restoring a Model A pickup, so we will do some features sometime.
I understand using Fordson valves, while doing a Model T valve job, makes them run stronger into the higher RPMs. I registered this comment before watching your video.
Per usual, you have imbued upon us, a wealth of knowledge. I too would have used the three and a half inch, number 8 bolts, but I would have filed the markings off the heads😉👍 I enjoyed your references to an old-style reseating job. My engine is supposed to have been rebuilt. I hope to avoid your head and valve experiences with this car, anyway...
Hoping your rebuilt engine is robust. Check your lifter gaps yourself tho, because it is critical to avoid burning a valve. Yeah, I should have put those head bolts in the lathe and rounded the heads, then painted the heads after retorquing. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Very nice work on your engine seems to be working well,running fine also. Will keep in mind what you have done when time comes to build mine 1929 A thanks 🎉😅
Isn’t a multi angle seat cut radiused instead of a straight 45, use 60 and 30 degree cuts prior to the 45. The result is a single line of contact around the whole valve.
A radiused cut between the 60 and the 30 would be fantastic. My cutter set certainly doesn't have that tool. Are they commonly available / used? Interesting!
@@flivverchannelYes it’s what automotive machine shops call a 3 angle valve job, some shops also back cut the valve on the stem side to profile the flow. Very Common performance procedure.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I inherited a Model T from my dad when he passed away.
I was never much of a mechanic, but I've had to step it up a bit to keep this car going. It is always nice to see someone else's trials and learn something new.
Thank you! I am pleased that you got something from my videos. Good luck with your mechanicing!
Great information! It's comforting to know I wasn't the only one who had a devil of a time reaming the valve guides, I did some really sinful things to get the job done. I also spent two weeks spinning that stick with a suction cup on the end to "fix up" my valve seats. Cheers from the Shed.
Yeah, lapping is fine for final touchup, but tedious for more major work, I imagine.
Enjoy watching & learning on your videos about Model T's. Your do an excellent job of explaining & teaching. I don't own a Model T but hope to get a Model A in the near future. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks. These videos are fun to make. You can look forward to Model A content on this channel in the future too! My brother is restoring a Model A pickup, so we will do some features sometime.
Great job as usual.
Thanks Mark! Can't wait to meet you in person.
I understand using Fordson valves, while doing a Model T valve job, makes them run stronger into the higher RPMs.
I registered this comment before watching your video.
Interesting. I didn't investigate Fordson valves as an option, but I will!
@@flivverchannel
I have no personal experience with Fordson valves as they relate to Model Ts, I just remember seeing a video put out by someone else.
@@Peter-jo3wt I will investigate it sometime. Thanks
Very Nice Job ,Thank You For Your Videos !!!
Glad you liked them. Thanks for watching!
Per usual, you have imbued upon us, a wealth of knowledge.
I too would have used the three and a half inch, number 8 bolts, but I would have filed the markings off the heads😉👍
I enjoyed your references to an old-style reseating job.
My engine is supposed to have been rebuilt.
I hope to avoid your head and valve experiences with this car, anyway...
Hoping your rebuilt engine is robust. Check your lifter gaps yourself tho, because it is critical to avoid burning a valve. Yeah, I should have put those head bolts in the lathe and rounded the heads, then painted the heads after retorquing. Thanks for watching and commenting!
There is nothing nefarious about building a sleeper😉👍
Very nice work on your engine seems to be working well,running fine also. Will keep in mind what you have done when time comes to build mine 1929 A thanks 🎉😅
Good luck with your '29 A! Thanks for watching.
Nice job 👏 😇🙏
Thank you 🙌
Howdy, glad to have met ya over at Randahl's, cheers!
ShopKat stole my answer!
Hi! Nice to meet you too.
the seats may not be radiused , what they are is done in different angles this gives the small sealing edge required
I see what you mean.
Isn’t a multi angle seat cut radiused instead of a straight 45, use 60 and 30 degree cuts prior to the 45.
The result is a single line of contact around the whole valve.
A radiused cut between the 60 and the 30 would be fantastic. My cutter set certainly doesn't have that tool. Are they commonly available / used? Interesting!
@@flivverchannelYes it’s what automotive machine shops call a 3 angle valve job, some shops also back cut the valve on the stem side to profile the flow.
Very Common performance procedure.
One of my T engines has radiused seats still.
Neat! I've never even seen one.