Patience and love , you can see it thru out the video, you have the temperment for this kind of project. When its finished and you drive it down the street , few will ever know the depth of investment you've made in bringing the satellite back to life
Watching this after working on my 54 Plymouth all day . The struggle is real and really worth it. Also a little bit of body filler over the seams would be fine bed liner on top will hide quite a bit.
Love the fact that you mention the thickness of the steel. A lot of guys wouldn't have a clue and some might even butcher it by using the wrong gauge steel.. Love you videos, you do it like we used to in my younger day outside and in the weeds if we had to. If we were lucky we would score a shed or lean-to to work under.
🤘 The small things may not be glamorous but they’re very important. I had two people come over and help install the engine today and one of them brought over an easy-up and I’ll tell you I felt really really spoiled LOL. I enjoy the challenge of using what is on hand
The car is coming along - that's a nice job on the x-member... here's the thing about the roof & glass : I agree w/peaceful seas - don't do the lead. The car is on a budget, & removing/replacing glass is not cheap or easy - I helped a friend to do it years ago, & never again. We're still friends though, lol.
Glass IS cheap, a front shield is $150.00 for a brand new one ( I like a new front shield anyway ) and taking them out is nothing to it , just time VERY easy to do. He can have them both out in under 2 hours , got to take it slower on the back glass but to be honest, I have never cracked a rear glass and I have pulled dozens of them and nobody showed ME or told me nothing ! I watch a glass guy do one and asked where did he get the molding tool & seal cutter T handle tool. The rest was easy. After you do your fist one, you will see what I mean, there easy . The big thing is don't worry about if you crank the front one as a brand new front shield is a wonderful thing.
Everyone's got an opinion, & they're more than willing to let you have it, whether or not you asked for it. But in the end, it is YOUR money going into it - that's the budget :)
@@hydroy1 yep done it twice all by myself on my 60's charger and 80's chevy 1500 not to bad just fiddly and in my case i ended up buying new rubber but they would have needed anyway's after 20+year's of not being changed
I wouldn't bother with the lead on the roof turret, there are plenty of easier and just as effective materials you can use there. However I would seriously get both screens out and check for rust in the window channels where the screens sit. You had rusted out floor pans, so its a good chance you have some water leak issues either in both front A pillar areas, inner and outer door jamb/kick panel bulkhead areas or the upper firewall/plenum area under the dash. As advised before, you need to remove the dash and while its out of the way inspect everything behind it. I know your going for a budget theme, but there's nothing worse than driving around and having water piss out all over your legs and feet while your out and about in the soup.
bryan you gave new meaning to the term black eye , yea them spray cans suck ..1 out of every 10 cans fails like that , i always go away from my project to test the can a few times b4 i atemp to paint , im enjoying watching the progress of the car , nice work
I can't believe you did that job! I thought this car was a dead donkey when you showed all that rot. You are the F'n MAN! This is excellent content on the level of UTG.
Consider using Eastwood Internal frame coating for those inside hard to reach spots, comes with a looonnngg straw nozzle with 360 spray pattern..stick it all the way in...trigger it and slowly drag it out. wa-la
@@LunarOutlawsGarage yes, I use it a little bit on my channel. its like an olive green color. Its very helpful. you can take the tip of an shoot it normal as well.
Well done!!! When we first saw the rotted crossmember, i kinda thought "game over"!! Many would. But you got past it thats great!!! As far as headliner, is it cloth and bows or molded cardboard?? If cardboard, idk what replacement cost is but if its too much, go low buck!! Hit the local fabric n craft store. I discovered them years ago as a pretty neat potential source for lots of auto projects.They have vinyl and cloth in various patterns and textures you could recover it with. As far as roof seams, lead is the best solution and will last. Not the easiest or cheapest, but certainly the best if done right!! Again well done, and thanks for the laughs(sorry) with the paint can incident!! Keep it up!!!
Lol good think I had the safety squints. The headliner is fabric, however it is installed odd. It has hoops to tension it and it is held in by the windshields. It is how they did it back in he day. A very odd way to do it in my mind
It is, what it is. The video quality is fine.. Removing the windows, will help you to find the rust in the window areas that you won't find otherwise. I would say have the windows removed. For piece of mind, sake. You'll know, for sure, if the window channels are good, it junk. It costs more up front, true...
The very first lesson I learned learning how to weld was as long as you have a good grinder it doesn't really matter what your welds actually looked like. She's coming along man nice job
Maybe you should invert in in a sandblaster. HF has low buck unit that works well, lotta rust there Brian. And in my 62 years, I`ve never seen a paint can do that. Glad you are ok.
I didnt know if you saw my post when you where live last time and I know you guys get a lot of them. On those factory seams on your roof - sand blast all the nooks and crannies then get as much as you can with an autobody grinder in the same area then air blast the seams and then fill with the bi-metal bondo from Eastwood catalog close as you can get to leading the seams . also never bondo over sanded or grinded paint . just a friendly suggestion. I study 3 years of auto collision repair at Gibson tech here in missouri and got my certification when I was in high school graduated in 97
Spray bottle moment was funny when you panned the camara to your face lucky you had googles on if not oh boy......any way...... Looks good, plus your getting used to the welder too..... looking forward to the next one......👍🤙🤘
I've had a spray can mishap before. I dropped the can though. Thank God you were wearing safety glasses. I always wear them now because of two incidents. 1st: I was changing a clutch in my F350 and I knocked a can of brake cleaner over an it wedged between into the tire spraying the brake cleaner straight into my eye. 2nd: I was using the gas trimmer and it kicked up a stone that hit me right in the eye. Now I wear safety glasses if I'm doing anything at work or home. So good job using some PPE.
When I used to work on these rusts buckets I found out in a hurry that a cheap sandblaster made rust removal a lot easier for this type of project. Skip using lead in the roof there are too many other products you can use that are a lot better to work with. You definitely want to pull the trim from around the back glass before you start working on the roof. The metal that holds the clips to the body may be rusted out and break off but since it isn't a show car I have used window urethane that they use on modern car glass to glue the trim back in place.
8:05 Holy Shit! That should have been your thumbnail as it would really draw people in. Reminds me of job when I drove a big ford truck with a ton+ of sealcoating in the tank. Often I'd end up with ten times the amount of black on me as you had. Even though it was considered non-toxic some days it would migrate right through my skin and come out smelling tar in my farts.
Dude, I know its a budget resto, but your doing too good a job!! just keep going the way you are and you'll end up with a really nice super clean driver . please keep it stock, and that colour is epic!!! Two many Satellites have been turned in to roadrunners, I recon nice Satellites will rise in value in the future, Thanks regards from England ….
Thanks John. Ya I really dig this color as well. I am going to keep the appearance stock no need to go over the top with crazy colors. It will be a great car to just enjoy
I was told when spot welding like that that you go in and opposition pattern like with lug nuts. It minimizes movement and misalignment as well as warping
Great job on the work today 👍pull the headliner fix the roof the correct way and then replace the headliner it will make for some great content. Glad you didnt get hurt with the bursting can . Videos like this will absolutely grow the channel . I would not use lead there must be a better and safer alternative ,I'm sure you will find the best way to make the roof repairs . 👍👍
i'm not a metal worker, but when touring my friends shop, i was interested to see he had 5 angle grinders hanging on the edge of a steel cart, each with a different wheel/wirebrush/sandpaper configuration. Since getting back to my own woodshop, i've noticed how much time i spend changing discs, reeling in the cord for the attached wrench. much to be said for my friend's method. his grinders are mostly cheap-o HF or garage sale finds.
My advice is to stay away from the lead- the metal would need to be prestine in order for it to tin/stick. This is a budget build. I would get the cars structure stabilized, get it driving, then you could work on the aesthetics. Go ahead and rhino line the top; you could still install a vinyl top later. And a headliner would very much help the look of the interior, and make it nicer to drive for noise/heat reasons. Keep up the good work.
go to harbor freight and get Pittsburgh Automotive Professional Windshield Removal Kit 96339 and you can with a buddy can remove the glass yourselfs ...........put the car in the sun it will soften the butyl sealer that holds the glass in............. you'll also need to remove all the outside and inside trim....... you'll also need a tool like this one to remove trim OEMTOOLS 25338 Window Molding Clip Remover. and take your time.
I am impressed, this has always be one of my favorite MOPAR body styles. Piss on the lead man there are what to many products out there that dont involve heat
great attitude many would of walked away from that much rust. also great to see some welding! 👍 my 2 cents do what you can . if u think lead is the way to go do it . if its a budget thing go for bondo most people would of parted the car out not bring it back ! if the car could talk its happy its still around ☘
Looks like a dentist working with that dremel. Regarding the roof, how about filling with the mig, and grind and sand. Use hammer to release heat stress in the welded area, if needed.
Reminds me of my project 65 dart . i got lucky with the frame and torsion bar support but have rusted out front passenger side and driver side floor panels and some cancer on the rear wheel well flares on the quarter panels. The car had a factory under coating and I think it was kept in a garage or car port and didnt see a lot of de-icer on the roads?
It's great watching a Millennial , not afraid to learn as they go , Lunar? but you work harder , than smarter , let me explain < Son> why isnt that car up on Jack stands or block's? , you do realize its more of struggle the way you have this car set up , here's what i did , because when i did my 73 SS in my Yard..it was up on block's and Jack stands , and 4X8 sheet of 1/2 under the car that i can get under it , specially when it cam too installing a new trans and the Engine , hoist on a the plywood worked wonders, you need to check your measurements as well under that car , i get the budget thing again i was in the same boat ..i watch many youtube channel's some guys really struggle to work harder , some guys have it made with their fancy garages tools ect: , but i believe explain what your game plan is and get too it, don't drag it out with your talk's, that gets to be a bore , Just say'n , youtube didn't exist when i did mine < wish it was > , i'd be Rich hahaha specially during a snow storm yeah good times back then .. well good luck i'll be watching :)
You are doing nice work on the floors and if I was you I would do it my way because if u listen to all of these ppl they will have you doing a frame off restoration and putting and tossing the motor u built and putting a $30,000 engine in it with a roll cage so only take it as far as you originally planned because you could be opening a box of worms here and I can tell that you are wanting a nice driver but yeah if u take the glass out most definitely do a headliner but I love the channel and its taking off really good keep up the great work 👍
Thanks man. I think I am going to try and pop the windows my self and do a new head liner. This will slow we to also check for any way for water to intrude into the car from that area. And honestly it would be nice to put fresh glass in providing it is not a crazy price.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage right on plus u can fix any rust around the window seal before you put the glass back in I've got the same headliner in my pinto so my glass has to come out also but yeah man I love the build I can't wait to see the dyno results. I'm still waiting on my stroker kit from scat its going on 3 weeks now and I'm ready to get my engine in the machine shop so I can start building it so I can get it in my pinto or "Beans " is what I named him lol have you named your car or do u name them. This is the first one I've named 🤣
@@LunarOutlawsGarage glass should be pretty cheap honesty it would probably be just as cheap to let them put the glass in after u get it out I've been quoted less than 200 bucks for a windshield and that's putting it in also
@@LunarOutlawsGarage oh yeah if u squeeze the bottom of the paint can lid and pull up it will pop off really easily just a lil tip so that you won't get beat up by a paint can again and black your eye 🤣😜🤣👌
instead of using Lead, use Short strand fiberglass, then a filler of your choice to finish it. Did it 15 years ago on a Challenger, and its still good.
probably hiding rust/sin's iv had old car's with fibreglass no thanks on a steel bodied ( soak's up water/junk and speed's up rot ) car, corvette's yes please as its a OEM fibreglass body to start with
@@HoosierGarage lol 😂 you have to be joking right, yes i have seen your method tried as well as "hackory" and yes my 68 C10 came to me with lot's of sin including Aluminium tape and chicken wire and thick 1/4+ bondo and fibreglass in some spots none of that crap lasted long the only way to have fixed that cab was cutting below the door's/rockers and scraping it and using a new pan as it was flint-stone mobile by the time i got it
@@richardprice5978 of course use new pans but 'glass can be used in moderation. High end shops use it properly. Garbage you had with chicken wire is on another level. Dont compare.
@@richardprice5978 and honestly. We are talking lead seams. Did you have chicken wire in your old lead seams? Or are you talkong about shitty floor pan work with that and paint stir sticks. Dont be dramatic.
@John Johnson thank you John I been saying the same thing.....what I do is weld a small strip of metal in the roof seam of course it has to be cleaned and I use copper weld thur primer on both sides. It's either that way or lead nothing else will last.
You have to clean out the roof to quarter panel seam really well this means getting all of the lead out or bondo..... I have used on real cars not arm chair body work....metal to metal ,dyna glass , and the best bondo you can buy 95% of the time they will crack mopars are uni-body design every thing gets transfered through the body all vibrations that's why the factory used lead on cars that didn't get a vinyl top. Vinyl top cars got bondo over the roof seams and that always worked out bad if the car wasn't garage kept. For me it's either lead or weld seam solid.... I choose to weld seam solid, but there are lead free solders on the market but I have never used them in automotive applications. And all high end restoration shop use lead or lead free solders. Or weld seam flush. If it's good enough for a six figure restoration shop it's good for me.
LunarOutlaw’s Garage what ever works and saves time on this great project, to keep it as fresh, practical and interesting... my 72 chargers roof was mostly welded over with 2-4" parch panels along the vinyl seam line where heavy rust set, overlapping the lead filled factory roof seam and using some sort of plastic filler (will have to ask my body guy what he used), of course the windows were removed to take out all of the remaining vinyl top material and replacing it with a repro from ebay that has held for over 10 years now... i was almost convinced to do a custom 70s style streat freak paint job over the vinyl top portion as my body guy is really into low riders, but ultimately chickened out and went the resto route... KEEP UP THE GREAT CONTENT
The factory used bondo only under the vinyl tops. Along with no paint. Cheaper that way. So those roofs don't hold up. The non vinyl roof cars used lead in the seam. There is a guy , jamesfreddys, on youtube doing it. There are others. If you just put bondo back in, you'll have to put a new vinyl top on since the bondo won't hold up. I've tried. Especially if the car is parked outside. Yes there are fancier types of bondo but I don't think any are up for it. For the people that say "Lead is dangerous", you aren't eating it. Wear a good mask when It is hot and you aren't breathing it either.
The car is rusty as hell but repairable, the person who owned the Nova before the seller I bought it from completely destroyed the trans tunnel. It needs new floor pans, trunk pan, rear frame rails. It’s not as bad as other Nova’s I’ve seen.
I would not worry about it when you pass someone going down the down the road at 85 miles an hour you aren't going to see them places in the top at all
I wouldn't open Pandora's box on a project you are trying budget build especially. Use some Bondo Glass or something like that, and maybe stick to your bedliner idea?
Nice work. It's my opinion that the crossmember from rock auto is no different than the other suppliers. There's likely on fabricator punching these out with one supplier licensed to claim Mopar authorized.
I was suprised it came from Rock Auto...I thought he had misspoken til he said it a few times!!!😂 Never thought to even look to see if they carried stuff that old!!!
Theres a lead video by an old fellow on the Eastwood channel... Its a lil slow n repetitive, but hes clearly an old school master...was worth the time to watch!!!...
Did you price out a vinyl top replacement? Might be easier in the long run. I definitely would check out the window rust. Better to fix any issues now than later. I wouldn’t worry about a tight budget. You’re always gonna spend more than you thought. Seems to me you are gonna always be working on a project, so what does it matter if you’re spending on this one or the next one? You may spend $ on cars every week of your life, so why limit the results with a budget? You are rebuilding everything, so you are not wasting $, and I don’t think you would spend more than the car is worth. Keep under $10k and you’ll be fine. Keep up the good work!
@John Johnson I'm definitely not a body man but I worked building wrecks for years we had a body man I run frame rack and done everything to put them back ready to paint I figured there was some kind of bondo u could use that wouldn't crack
😆😆😆...I had a vision of Homer Simpson DOH... going on...my uncle had a spray can blow on him like that and he was covered in red...if anything you took me down memory lane...he has been gone a long time now.
I don't think they do lead too much any more. Maybe look at some bodywork channels and just use modern materials. Why open Pandora's box if you don't have to?
removing the original trimming and windows isn't that hard a couple of screw drivers/trim-bar's/scraper's and a box-cutter ( not a bad idea to replace 50 year old rubber as well hence why razoring out is the easy way to do it ) and or thin rope and yes one that car there's probably vinyl still stuck and rust under there ( trust me my 60's charger was hiding sin's ) and it would be a shame to miss it and ended up with a water leak later on after final assembly and painting ect. why didn't you make the tunnel bigger? for a common mod 6-L80/Tr6060 ect. option's ( im using a TR6060 style so yeh it's something i found out ) and or tiny patches rather than cut all at one round and use fresh panel's and frame?
Nah, lead is way too complicated for this project. But, if you clean the roof seams to bare metal, you can stitch weld the seam, which will strengthen it so a filler like kitty hair will last and won’t crack out like regular bondo will.
I would not use lead, there are way too many good products out there to fill the seams, do some research and use what works for you. its only a budget build and you planned to leave the patina on the roof anyway
My understanding is he has had a lot of problems at his shop the past three weeks. But if it doesn’t happen soon I will have to start looking for a plan B
I am the same way. Tony called me up asking if I wanted to work with him. I think he was really surprised I drove down to him, maybe nick was too. I know it was a bummer to have it all planned out called 14 different people and talked for hrs on the phone to guarantee border crossing only to have that part of the trip pulled out from underneath me.
![Twin Turbo Ford Mustang 'Hoonicorn' Inspired [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IeCcyuDzo1A/mqdefault.jpg)
Patience and love , you can see it thru out the video, you have the temperment for this kind of project. When its finished and you drive it down the street , few will ever know the depth of investment you've made in bringing the satellite back to life
Thanks man. Yup and I think that is what this car will embody, the Beauty of this car will be more than what’s on the surface.
Watching this after working on my 54 Plymouth all day . The struggle is real and really worth it. Also a little bit of body filler over the seams would be fine bed liner on top will hide quite a bit.
Love the fact that you mention the thickness of the steel. A lot of guys wouldn't have a clue and some might even butcher it by using the wrong gauge steel.. Love you videos, you do it like we used to in my younger day outside and in the weeds if we had to. If we were lucky we would score a shed or lean-to to work under.
🤘 The small things may not be glamorous but they’re very important. I had two people come over and help install the engine today and one of them brought over an easy-up and I’ll tell you I felt really really spoiled LOL. I enjoy the challenge of using what is on hand
Great work, keep up the good work sir
Thanks Peter I appreciate it
The car is coming along - that's a nice job on the x-member... here's the thing about the roof & glass : I agree w/peaceful seas - don't do the lead. The car is on a budget, & removing/replacing glass is not cheap or easy - I helped a friend to do it years ago, & never again. We're still friends though, lol.
lol that is great. I agree by doing lead it will snow ball quickly. and thanks man
Glass IS cheap, a front shield is $150.00 for a brand new one ( I like a new front shield anyway ) and taking them out is nothing to it , just time VERY easy to do. He can have them both out in under 2 hours , got to take it slower on the back glass but to be honest, I have never cracked a rear glass and I have pulled dozens of them and nobody showed ME or told me nothing ! I watch a glass guy do one and asked where did he get the molding tool & seal cutter T handle tool. The rest was easy. After you do your fist one, you will see what I mean, there easy . The big thing is don't worry about if you crank the front one as a brand new front shield is a wonderful thing.
Everyone's got an opinion, & they're more than willing to let you have it, whether or not you asked for it. But in the end, it is YOUR money going into it - that's the budget :)
@@hydroy1 yep done it twice all by myself on my 60's charger and 80's chevy 1500 not to bad just fiddly and in my case i ended up buying new rubber but they would have needed anyway's after 20+year's of not being changed
I wouldn't bother with the lead on the roof turret, there are plenty of easier and just as effective materials you can use there.
However I would seriously get both screens out and check for rust in the window channels where the screens sit.
You had rusted out floor pans, so its a good chance you have some water leak issues either in both front A pillar areas, inner and outer door jamb/kick panel bulkhead areas or the upper firewall/plenum area under the dash. As advised before, you need to remove the dash and while its out of the way inspect everything behind it.
I know your going for a budget theme, but there's nothing worse than driving around and having water piss out all over your legs and feet while your out and about in the soup.
bryan you gave new meaning to the term black eye , yea them spray cans suck ..1 out of every 10 cans fails like that , i always go away from my project to test the can a few times b4 i atemp to paint , im enjoying watching the progress of the car , nice work
I can't believe you did that job! I thought this car was a dead donkey when you showed all that rot. You are the F'n MAN! This is excellent content on the level of UTG.
Thank you Craig man, that means a lot 🤘🤘
Consider using Eastwood Internal frame coating for those inside hard to reach spots, comes with a looonnngg straw nozzle with 360 spray pattern..stick it all the way in...trigger it and slowly drag it out. wa-la
That is cool I didn’t know they made such a thing. I Swear they come out with tons of new gadgets over the past ten years
@@LunarOutlawsGarage yes, I use it a little bit on my channel. its like an olive green color. Its very helpful. you can take the tip of an shoot it normal as well.
Well done!!! When we first saw the rotted crossmember, i kinda thought "game over"!! Many would. But you got past it thats great!!!
As far as headliner, is it cloth and bows or molded cardboard?? If cardboard, idk what replacement cost is but if its too much, go low buck!! Hit the local fabric n craft store. I discovered them years ago as a pretty neat potential source for lots of auto projects.They have vinyl and cloth in various patterns and textures you could recover it with.
As far as roof seams, lead is the best solution and will last. Not the easiest or cheapest, but certainly the best if done right!!
Again well done, and thanks for the laughs(sorry) with the paint can incident!! Keep it up!!!
Lol good think I had the safety squints. The headliner is fabric, however it is installed odd. It has hoops to tension it and it is held in by the windshields. It is how they did it back in he day. A very odd way to do it in my mind
It is, what it is. The video quality is fine..
Removing the windows, will help you to find the rust in the window areas that you won't find otherwise. I would say have the windows removed. For piece of mind, sake. You'll know, for sure, if the window channels are good, it junk. It costs more up front, true...
Great job it makes me have a big project and tackle it
The very first lesson I learned learning how to weld was as long as you have a good grinder it doesn't really matter what your welds actually looked like. She's coming along man nice job
Maybe you should invert in in a sandblaster. HF has low buck unit that works well, lotta rust there Brian. And in my 62 years, I`ve never seen a paint can do that. Glad you are ok.
If I'm not mistaken a lot of the replacement frame rails are made to slip over top of the existing. Therefore they are slightly wider and deeper.
Please don't use lead. Use a product called all metal. It's a filler with metal in it. Much easier to use, no heat involved.
I will look into that. it is something I have never used
I have not had good luck with ALL Metal. It doesn't flex and eventually cracks. I prefer DynaGlass and have never had a failure.
@@peacfulseas Dynaglass & Duraglass same stuff, different company's works great in seams or rust repairs, mixes like bondo with hardener
@@hydroy1 Yes both are the same, I use them interchangeably. I use it on boats and travel trailers too.
Tiger hair another name for it. what flexing is a roof going to do
To Hell with the budget, you're in to DEEP!!😊🤐💪
What budget? He's saving money! lol
I am doing nothing at home right now, and it beats playing video games. so I will spend as little as I can and use my time to make the difference
I didnt know if you saw my post when you where live last time and I know you guys get a lot of them. On those factory seams on your roof - sand blast all the nooks and crannies then get as much as you can with an autobody grinder in the same area then air blast the seams and then fill with the bi-metal bondo from Eastwood catalog close as you can get to leading the seams . also never bondo over sanded or grinded paint . just a friendly suggestion. I study 3 years of auto collision repair at Gibson tech here in missouri and got my certification when I was in high school graduated in 97
I will check it out thanks man there is a few options you guys have pointed out, some stuff I have never used so I would be neat to try it out
Great job mate, keep up the good work. 👍
Great work lunar keep it up👍
Thank you David
Well done man very impressive you'll get there I'm stoked for you
Thank you tony
Spray bottle moment was funny when you panned the camara to your face lucky you had googles on if not oh boy......any way...... Looks good, plus your getting used to the welder too..... looking forward to the next one......👍🤙🤘
Thank you man. ya it probably would have been a hospital trip
Ive never seen anyone get beat up by a paint can so bad in my life but it gave ya the old fashioned butt kicking 😂🤣😂🤣👌
😂
I've had a spray can mishap before. I dropped the can though. Thank God you were wearing safety glasses. I always wear them now because of two incidents.
1st: I was changing a clutch in my F350 and I knocked a can of brake cleaner over an it wedged between into the tire spraying the brake cleaner straight into my eye.
2nd: I was using the gas trimmer and it kicked up a stone that hit me right in the eye.
Now I wear safety glasses if I'm doing anything at work or home.
So good job using some PPE.
Ok man break fluid!! That stuff is nasty! PPE can be inconvenient at times but loosing an eye would not be a good time
@@LunarOutlawsGarage Brake cleaner. It's the shit you clean with. Lol
Good job 👍 slow and steady makes for a clean job.
When I used to work on these rusts buckets I found out in a hurry that a cheap sandblaster made rust removal a lot easier for this type of project. Skip using lead in the roof there are too many other products you can use that are a lot better to work with. You definitely want to pull the trim from around the back glass before you start working on the roof. The metal that holds the clips to the body may be rusted out and break off but since it isn't a show car I have used window urethane that they use on modern car glass to glue the trim back in place.
I see lots of work king on here looks good so far
8:05 Holy Shit! That should have been your thumbnail as it would really draw people in. Reminds me of job when I drove a big ford truck with a ton+ of sealcoating in the tank. Often I'd end up with ten times the amount of black on me as you had. Even though it was considered non-toxic some days it would migrate right through my skin and come out smelling tar in my farts.
Wow 😂 that is rough man
Dude, I know its a budget resto, but your doing too good a job!! just keep going the way you are and you'll end up with a really nice super clean driver . please keep it stock, and that colour is epic!!! Two many Satellites have been turned in to roadrunners, I recon nice Satellites will rise in value in the future, Thanks regards from England ….
Thanks John. Ya I really dig this color as well. I am going to keep the appearance stock no need to go over the top with crazy colors. It will be a great car to just enjoy
I was told when spot welding like that that you go in and opposition pattern like with lug nuts. It minimizes movement and misalignment as well as warping
That's mostly for sheet metal - when things _really_ like to pull and warp.
Just be glad you had glasses I once panted my eyes with a broken spray can.
Great job on the work today 👍pull the headliner fix the roof the correct way and then replace the headliner it will make for some great content. Glad you didnt get hurt with the bursting can . Videos like this will absolutely grow the channel . I would not use lead there must be a better and safer alternative ,I'm sure you will find the best way to make the roof repairs . 👍👍
Thanks man 🤘 I have never had a cam do that but I am very happy I had my safety classes on
Grinder and Paint makes us the welders we aint! lol Don't worry, looks strong and has to be better than rust and dirt!
Thank you man. ya that is very true
Wow great job Brian I can’t beleive how much you got done this weekend it’s. Oming our killer can’t wait to see tomorrow’s progress.
Thanks man I cant wait to have it back together.
Just a heads up. Those sparks from cutting will etch glass so be carful. Wouldn't want you to end up with windows that have spots.
Have you checked to see if the torsion bar fits?
i'm not a metal worker, but when touring my friends shop, i was interested to see he had 5 angle grinders hanging on the edge of a steel cart, each with a different wheel/wirebrush/sandpaper configuration. Since getting back to my own woodshop, i've noticed how much time i spend changing discs, reeling in the cord for the attached wrench. much to be said for my friend's method. his grinders are mostly cheap-o HF or garage sale finds.
Lol ya I did a lot of disk changing. That I a really good idea
My advice is to stay away from the lead- the metal would need to be prestine in order for it to tin/stick. This is a budget build. I would get the cars structure stabilized, get it driving, then you could work on the aesthetics. Go ahead and rhino line the top; you could still install a vinyl top later. And a headliner would very much help the look of the interior, and make it nicer to drive for noise/heat reasons. Keep up the good work.
go to harbor freight and get Pittsburgh Automotive
Professional Windshield Removal Kit 96339 and you can with a buddy can remove the glass yourselfs ...........put the car in the sun it will soften the butyl sealer that holds the glass in............. you'll also need to remove all the outside and inside trim....... you'll also need a tool like this one to remove trim OEMTOOLS 25338 Window Molding Clip Remover. and take your time.
I am impressed, this has always be one of my favorite MOPAR body styles. Piss on the lead man there are what to many products out there that dont involve heat
I am glad a lot of people agree with you. Lol that would have made this move very quickly a way from a budget build
Take the windows out yourself. Do the headliner and vinyl roof yourself. See a few of my videos on taking out the trim. Its really not that bad.
Looks good!
Thank you man
Getting down to business.! Good job, Lunar.
Thanks man
Great work on the channel. Can’t wait to see this thing come together. When does the engine go on the dyno?
Good music! Whenever I saw a car with a rusted out torsion bar crossmember, I figured it was too far gone.
If your willing to beat your hands up a bit it can be repaired, not an easy task.
great attitude many would of walked away from that much rust. also great to see some welding! 👍 my 2 cents do what you can . if u think lead is the way to go do it . if its a budget thing go for bondo most people would of parted the car out not bring it back ! if the car could talk its happy its still around ☘
Thanks for thank man put a smile on my face 😁🤙. I love saving cars that others would have scraped
Looks like a dentist working with that dremel. Regarding the roof, how about filling with the mig, and grind and sand. Use hammer to release heat stress in the welded area, if needed.
I think if I go very slow with the welder it should not Distort it. Some times it pays to take your time
Great content. What do you think about just chopping the top off. The welds did look pretty good. NICE JOB BRIAN 👍🔥🔥
Reminds me of my project 65 dart . i got lucky with the frame and torsion bar support but have rusted out front passenger side and driver side floor panels and some cancer on the rear wheel well flares on the quarter panels. The car had a factory under coating and I think it was kept in a garage or car port and didnt see a lot of de-icer on the roads?
Keep up the great job
Ty
It's great watching a Millennial , not afraid to learn as they go , Lunar? but you work harder , than smarter , let me explain < Son> why isnt that car up on Jack stands or block's? , you do realize its more of struggle the way you have this car set up , here's what i did , because when i did my 73 SS in my Yard..it was up on block's and Jack stands , and 4X8 sheet of 1/2 under the car that i can get under it , specially when it cam too installing a new trans and the Engine , hoist on a the plywood worked wonders, you need to check your measurements as well under that car , i get the budget thing again i was in the same boat ..i watch many youtube channel's some guys really struggle to work harder , some guys have it made with their fancy garages tools ect: , but i believe explain what your game plan is and get too it, don't drag it out with your talk's, that gets to be a bore , Just say'n , youtube didn't exist when i did mine < wish it was > , i'd be Rich hahaha specially during a snow storm yeah good times back then .. well good luck i'll be watching :)
Where did you get it
heck yeah man she is coming along nice
I’m sorry but I laughed really hard when you panned the camera to your face after the can exploded! Wow! That did a number on your face!
Use maps for a head liner, they are cheap and so is spray adhesive.
Nice work I would think lightweight body filler or two part epoxy would work for the roof seams
P.S. and were right there with you.
You are doing nice work on the floors and if I was you I would do it my way because if u listen to all of these ppl they will have you doing a frame off restoration and putting and tossing the motor u built and putting a $30,000 engine in it with a roll cage so only take it as far as you originally planned because you could be opening a box of worms here and I can tell that you are wanting a nice driver but yeah if u take the glass out most definitely do a headliner but I love the channel and its taking off really good keep up the great work 👍
Thanks man. I think I am going to try and pop the windows my self and do a new head liner. This will slow we to also check for any way for water to intrude into the car from that area. And honestly it would be nice to put fresh glass in providing it is not a crazy price.
@@LunarOutlawsGarage right on plus u can fix any rust around the window seal before you put the glass back in I've got the same headliner in my pinto so my glass has to come out also but yeah man I love the build I can't wait to see the dyno results. I'm still waiting on my stroker kit from scat its going on 3 weeks now and I'm ready to get my engine in the machine shop so I can start building it so I can get it in my pinto or "Beans " is what I named him lol have you named your car or do u name them. This is the first one I've named 🤣
@@LunarOutlawsGarage glass should be pretty cheap honesty it would probably be just as cheap to let them put the glass in after u get it out I've been quoted less than 200 bucks for a windshield and that's putting it in also
@@LunarOutlawsGarage oh yeah if u squeeze the bottom of the paint can lid and pull up it will pop off really easily just a lil tip so that you won't get beat up by a paint can again and black your eye 🤣😜🤣👌
Great job Brian , can u take alook a the insides of the 440 and give me yur thoughts ty
If I can get my hands on one I would be happy too
LunarOutlaw’s Garage it on my Channel sir video is there ty
instead of using Lead, use Short strand fiberglass, then a filler of your choice to finish it. Did it 15 years ago on a Challenger, and its still good.
probably hiding rust/sin's iv had old car's with fibreglass no thanks on a steel bodied ( soak's up water/junk and speed's up rot ) car, corvette's yes please as its a OEM fibreglass body to start with
@@richardprice5978 It was done wrong usually., put over rust, put over paint. Put over properly prepped steal its water proof. and strong.
@@HoosierGarage lol 😂 you have to be joking right, yes i have seen your method tried as well as "hackory" and yes my 68 C10 came to me with lot's of sin including Aluminium tape and chicken wire and thick 1/4+ bondo and fibreglass in some spots none of that crap lasted long the only way to have fixed that cab was cutting below the door's/rockers and scraping it and using a new pan as it was flint-stone mobile by the time i got it
@@richardprice5978 of course use new pans but 'glass can be used in moderation. High end shops use it properly. Garbage you had with chicken wire is on another level. Dont compare.
@@richardprice5978 and honestly. We are talking lead seams. Did you have chicken wire in your old lead seams? Or are you talkong about shitty floor pan work with that and paint stir sticks. Dont be dramatic.
Lunar Buddy keep to budget, plans never work out it always escalates with the luck you had with both cars keep to budget.
Looks good
thank you
never seen a guy cut the cap off a spray can untill tonight and i understand why
I am very happy I had my squints on
why not some decent modern bondo on the seams?
@John Johnson thank you John I been saying the same thing.....what I do is weld a small strip of metal in the roof seam of course it has to be cleaned and I use copper weld thur primer on both sides. It's either that way or lead nothing else will last.
You have to clean out the roof to quarter panel seam really well this means getting all of the lead out or bondo..... I have used on real cars not arm chair body work....metal to metal ,dyna glass , and the best bondo you can buy 95% of the time they will crack mopars are uni-body design every thing gets transfered through the body all vibrations that's why the factory used lead on cars that didn't get a vinyl top. Vinyl top cars got bondo over the roof seams and that always worked out bad if the car wasn't garage kept. For me it's either lead or weld seam solid.... I choose to weld seam solid, but there are lead free solders on the market but I have never used them in automotive applications. And all high end restoration shop use lead or lead free solders. Or weld seam flush. If it's good enough for a six figure restoration shop it's good for me.
I am thinking about taking my time and just welding the seam.
LunarOutlaw’s Garage what ever works and saves time on this great project, to keep it as fresh, practical and interesting... my 72 chargers roof was mostly welded over with 2-4" parch panels along the vinyl seam line where heavy rust set, overlapping the lead filled factory roof seam and using some sort of plastic filler (will have to ask my body guy what he used), of course the windows were removed to take out all of the remaining vinyl top material and replacing it with a repro from ebay that has held for over 10 years now... i was almost convinced to do a custom 70s style streat freak paint job over the vinyl top portion as my body guy is really into low riders, but ultimately chickened out and went the resto route... KEEP UP THE GREAT CONTENT
Nothing like a little blue grass
Must've drank a lot of monster to move that fast
LOL I had three cups of coffee
I suspect if you pull the widow out. You will find more rust hiding in the window channel
The factory used bondo only under the vinyl tops. Along with no paint. Cheaper that way. So those roofs don't hold up. The non vinyl roof cars used lead in the seam. There is a guy , jamesfreddys, on youtube doing it. There are others.
If you just put bondo back in, you'll have to put a new vinyl top on since the bondo won't hold up. I've tried. Especially if the car is parked outside. Yes there are fancier types of bondo but I don't think any are up for it. For the people that say "Lead is dangerous", you aren't eating it.
Wear a good mask when It is hot and you aren't breathing it either.
Way too funny ... love your channel.
Thank you. lol that was just my luck but i had my safety squints on so it is all good lol
What welder do you have btw?! I’m looking into buying one!
I picked up the Vulcan 215 from Harbor freight and it’s really really good for the price
If you aren't doing a full but and bolt resto I wouldn't worry about leading fill it in best way you can and move on and push forward 👍
Nut and bolt darn auto correct
Use truck liner on the top.
The car is rusty as hell but repairable, the person who owned the Nova before the seller I bought it from completely destroyed the trans tunnel. It needs new floor pans, trunk pan, rear frame rails. It’s not as bad as other Nova’s I’ve seen.
Some people really missed their calling as a Butcher
forget led, use a heavy fiberglass fill the end result will be the same.
try not to remove the glass if possible, glass gets brittle over time.
You will probably have to have a few Jack's after your finished for the night lol.
I went right for the Lagavulin it is like Bacon in the bottle🤘🤘
I would not worry about it when you pass someone going down the down the road at 85 miles an hour you aren't going to see them places in the top at all
By the way did you get a new crossmember?
No it turns out I was looking at it wrong, and the original torsion crossmember looked funky because it was twisted around the Torsion bar
@@LunarOutlawsGarage shew still makes my skin crawl lol.
I wouldn't open Pandora's box on a project you are trying budget build especially. Use some Bondo Glass or something like that, and maybe stick to your bedliner idea?
Nice work. It's my opinion that the crossmember from rock auto is no different than the other suppliers. There's likely on fabricator punching these out with one supplier licensed to claim Mopar authorized.
I was suprised it came from Rock Auto...I thought he had misspoken til he said it a few times!!!😂 Never thought to even look to see if they carried stuff that old!!!
Hi
Do you know anyone who does classic metal work? Find someone with a channel. And see about a cross channel metal work and repair. Can't hurt to try
Theres a lead video by an old fellow on the Eastwood channel... Its a lil slow n repetitive, but hes clearly an old school master...was worth the time to watch!!!...
Did you price out a vinyl top replacement? Might be easier in the long run. I definitely would check out the window rust. Better to fix any issues now than later. I wouldn’t worry about a tight budget. You’re always gonna spend more than you thought. Seems to me you are gonna always be working on a project, so what does it matter if you’re spending on this one or the next one? You may spend $ on cars every week of your life, so why limit the results with a budget? You are rebuilding everything, so you are not wasting $, and I don’t think you would spend more than the car is worth. Keep under $10k and you’ll be fine. Keep up the good work!
Thank man I have not but I can’t hurt to look🤙
Lead is extremely hard towork with id try something else
Ok that was funny, it sucks, but funny as hell. Good thing for safety glasses.
Coming together just use some good bondo
@John Johnson I'm definitely not a body man but I worked building wrecks for years we had a body man I run frame rack and done everything to put them back ready to paint I figured there was some kind of bondo u could use that wouldn't crack
😆😆😆...I had a vision of Homer Simpson DOH... going on...my uncle had a spray can blow on him like that and he was covered in red...if anything you took me down memory lane...he has been gone a long time now.
i am sorry for you loss man
@@LunarOutlawsGarage it's all good man... just hadn't thought about that incident in a long time. Thanks.
I don't think they do lead too much any more. Maybe look at some bodywork channels and just use modern materials. Why open Pandora's box if you don't have to?
Windows need to come out anyway
Little bit of schmoo?? That's a new one... Lol
Its your car dude. If you want a headliner... put a headliner in it.
That's fuckin crazy.
Arrrggghhh I'm a pirate.
😂😂😂😂😂
removing the original trimming and windows isn't that hard a couple of screw drivers/trim-bar's/scraper's and a box-cutter ( not a bad idea to replace 50 year old rubber as well hence why razoring out is the easy way to do it ) and or thin rope and yes one that car there's probably vinyl still stuck and rust under there ( trust me my 60's charger was hiding sin's ) and it would be a shame to miss it and ended up with a water leak later on after final assembly and painting ect.
why didn't you make the tunnel bigger? for a common mod 6-L80/Tr6060 ect. option's ( im using a TR6060 style so yeh it's something i found out ) and or tiny patches rather than cut all at one round and use fresh panel's and frame?
Hey dude wtf lol you should of went to the shop like that lol big shout out from the highlands of Scotland 👍
Fresh paint still all over your arm and hand the next day ? ??
Lol it still has not washed off. It is about 80% still there. Don’t let this stuff dry on you.
Nah, lead is way too complicated for this project. But, if you clean the roof seams to bare metal, you can stitch weld the seam, which will strengthen it so a filler like kitty hair will last and won’t crack out like regular bondo will.
You need to wear long sleeves when welding or you will get severe sun burn and possible skin cancer in the future be safe
I would not use lead, there are way too many good products out there to fill the seams, do some research and use what works for you. its only a budget build and you planned to leave the patina on the roof anyway
stop longintro
Man what is going on is Nick just putting you off or what?
My understanding is he has had a lot of problems at his shop the past three weeks. But if it doesn’t happen soon I will have to start looking for a plan B
LunarOutlaw’s Garage ya it’s almost like he don’t want to. In my opinion. But I’m the type if I say I’m going to do something I do it no matter what.
LunarOutlaw’s Garage man the paint incident was bad but the way you videoed it. Absolutely one of the greatest snips of a video I’ve seen.
I was just happy I had my safety classes on haha. A little bit of humor goes along way to keep the blood pressure down 🤙
I am the same way. Tony called me up asking if I wanted to work with him. I think he was really surprised I drove down to him, maybe nick was too. I know it was a bummer to have it all planned out called 14 different people and talked for hrs on the phone to guarantee border crossing only to have that part of the trip pulled out from underneath me.