Rob, thanks so much! Using your advice, and some luck, I made my first shooting board and it is sooo sweet! I never knew woodworking could be that precise! Planed the boards for my project square, and EASILY within 1/100” of each other! Dude, you rock!
I have used a shooting-board for decades, and I agree: it is an essential tool for anyone who does any amount of hand-woodworking. Thanks for the upload.
Rob, I learn so much from your positive attitude, systematic approach, and expert skills. Thank you for all you do to bring less experienced and less talented folks like me into the fold. I’m so grateful for your channel and your kind heart.
Rob woodworkers are often visual learners. You do a nice job of teaching in all your videos, so it surprised me when I noticed a procedure rather unsafe in this shooting board video. Early in my woodworking days I was hurt on a table saw because one of my mentors taught me incorrectly. What was no big thing for him was a dangerous way to do something. Luckily I wasn’t hurt badly and have never been again since with a power tool. This lesson taught me that how a procedure is demonstration matters. Using a SawStop saw is a safer table saw but by no means foolproof as you can still get kick back. At 5:50 in the video you are checking the MDF/plywoods cupping on the side of the table saw but you did not turn the saw off. I’m sure you were fine however a beginner woodworker might not understand how easy it is for kick back to happen. All it would take is one wrong move and the board could go flying across the room and possibly into someone. You’re a carful teacher so this is an out of character oversight for you and you might want to add a warning to turn off the saw when not cutting even if it is a saw stop. Keep up the great videos!
the care and standards you adhere too are quite mesmerising to watch.. also good to know you are human getting that little split on the edge with the last edge to smooth off! I have just started trying to get better with hand tools... cleaned up some old planes etc and been watching your planing technique videos.. will look to make a shooting board now :)
Jacob, yes, I made mine from Rob's design on his previous video, and I use it for tops, backs, edges, fingerboard edges, acoustic bridge blanks, tons of things. LOVE it!
I just built another one of these from your old design last weekend, and I'm currently working up one of your 90 degree miter ones as well. When making small boxes, there is nothing like one of these to kiss up to your line. Thanks for another great video Rob
I use TB3 and TB2 a fair bit. In my opinion TB3 definitely has more open time and is a little less viscous making it a little easier for larger surface glue ups and laminating. It’s my go-to for laminating oak vs epoxy as the latter has issues when bonding to oak.
Rob, I love your videos and you've inspired me to use my hand tools more and more. On tite Bond III, I have heard sever4al times you should not use that glue on Walnut. I actually still do use it on walnut and never have had a problem, but it is something to think about.
Superb, clearly described and demonstrated video detailing how to make a shooting board. All aspects of the construction of this essential piece of kit are shown (utilising close up camera work) and the key reasons behind them explained. Team Cosman never fails to provide wonderful wood and educational content - so grateful to you all for continuing to provide such material!! It’s ALWAYS a pleasure to watch learn and be inspired by!!!
I like the idea of building spring into the board to add a crown that works against you when in use. I don’t guess I get why Rob is cutting a rabbet in his top laminate. Is it to just get you to the finish line faster regarding breaking in and any tuning? My shooting boards that I built in another fashion are both still in good shape and it will hopefully be a few years before either will need to be rebuilt, but I’m certainly going to take his tips into consideration when building my next flat shooting board.
The rabbet runs against the sole of the plane in the space between the end of the throat and the side of the plane. That keeps the blade from digging into your shooting board. You could plane this rabbet in but thats tough work. Much easier with the table saw
Excellent video. I need to make a mini shooting board for the block plane, I have some East Indian Rosewood I'll use for the fence, similar high hardness as the Osage Orange. Love yer videos... God Bless!
Question: So when you cut the chamfer to prevent edge grain blow-out on both ends, how much do you compensate for the final true length? ie: 12” x 12” square box, how much extra length? Thanks, RonW.
A Canadian not using Robertson drive screws!?! Rob how dare you lol, yet another educational video, I always pick up something new even from these videos you've done In the past. You have really driven my ambition to be a fine furniture maker, thank you.
Great video. I noticed you used a tapered countersink bit to drill the holes for the fence. Are the screws also tapered, or what is the benefit of using a tapered drill bit? I checked a bunch of #8 wood screws in my shop and none of them are tapered.
@@ogwoodworksthe idea would be that you really only want the screw “pulling” on the fence and not the base. If your two pieces of wood are both locked into the screw threads, then they won’t really pull together. So the screw head will anchor one side and the threads will anchor into the fence and compress the two pieces together.
Hey Rob, great content, as always! Is there a way to stay updated on your public appearances at stores or other woodworking-related events? Will you be visiting the GTHA or the Niagara/Buffalo area this year?
The best way to stay up is to subscribe to our newsletter. I do not have anything like an annual schedule. If a woodcraft store calls me and wants me to come teach I generally say yes. So talk to your local Woodcraft store and get them to invite me down
Nice one Rob. I've made a few full and block plane size following your design / instruction. I used a mid-range hardwood (black bean) on my fence and after maybe 6 months of use the corner closest to the plane started to compress / dent from all the banging / use, so I moved to an even harder wood (jarrah) and had no more problems. I still use the one that compressed - used a skew block plane to true up the face of the fence again. Where you use the 1/2 inch ply on the top I tried using exotic woods (5/16") and none have exploded after years of use. I picked woods with very high stability / low shrinkage rates. It's a real joy for me to pull out a functional and also beautiful hand made tool. I work with small parts a lot so I use my shooting board to plane with a lot as well - I have a few different thicknesses of board to sit on it to bring the material height up when the stock is thinner than the fence. I probably plane on it more than I do on my bench. Great piece of kit.
That's a quality product and nicely made, but I think you might have missed the part that beginners would struggle with most. How do you adjust the fence if it's out of square after gluing? I've fixed them with a no. 10 plane in the past, but I'm sure you have a better way.
Built a shooting board and ended up with the centre of the plywood having a hump in it down the length of the board. Not sure if the plywood was to blame or the way I clamped it. Means the wood doesn’t sit square to the plane
I love these videos but would someone please explain why the fence is placed where it is. Instead of offsetting it and requiring a chamfer on the end, why not place the fence so that it acts as a backer to the piece being shot. I don’t understand the need for the extra step. 🤔
I just finished one of these a couple of days ago based on your earlier video, and intend to also build an 18 inch version. Not having clamps with deep enough throats for some of the glue up, I used stacks of bricks as a quick and dirty measure. For the next iteration I want to use proper clamps but am having trouble finding sturdy ones with enough reach into the throats. Do you have a suggestion where I might be able to purchase a few of those? Thanks.
Still working on my first bench, but this will be priority number two, thank you for your excellent channel Rob. Curious why Americans and some Canadians are so insistent on sticking with imperial over user friendly metric? Very odd to me…
I'm not sold on the idea of having a hump in the middle of my shooting board. Think about it, wouldn't be better to have a dip or cup so that the side of the plane is making contact at 2 points (toe & heel) and not on a single point in the middle which would be more tippy.
No, you’re missing the point. The plane is top heavy, but only in the middle where the frog, blade, chipbreaker, and lever cap live. And if it is only touching at the heel and toe, that top-heaviness will tip outward.
And I could go on for hours about Osage orange, named after Osage Indians. Burns as hot as coal and last 100 yrs as a fence post in the dirt. I've literally pulled wood from under dirt and turned on the lathe!!! I could keep going...
@RobCosmanWoodworking natives would travel for hundreds of miles to trade for the wood and fruits full of seeds. It was recorded in late 1600s that a bow made of Osage was worth a horse AND a blanket OR a comely young squaw... the blanket would've been s high ticket item itself in the time and the Osage Indians had a monopoly
I honestly don't understand why this guy is one of the more prominent woodworkers on TH-cam. Aside from the obvious, "oh I don't have a table saw to make my shooting board (which you wouldn't need if you have a table saw and know how to set it up), I guess I'll just buy one from his store", and being incredulous to the fact that people complained he used a shooting board to make a shooting board and now he has to make another video, he should be de-platformed for being too lazy to turn his table saw off when not making a cut, and leaving it on his video for beginners to see and think that is standard practice. Shameful. Easiest unsubscribe ever.
Rob, thanks so much! Using your advice, and some luck, I made my first shooting board and it is sooo sweet! I never knew woodworking could be that precise! Planed the boards for my project square, and EASILY within 1/100” of each other! Dude, you rock!
I have used a shooting-board for decades, and I agree: it is an essential tool for anyone who does any amount of hand-woodworking.
Thanks for the upload.
Well said!
You set such a good example. Always always always paying attention to the details.
Rob, I learn so much from your positive attitude, systematic approach, and expert skills. Thank you for all you do to bring less experienced and less talented folks like me into the fold. I’m so grateful for your channel and your kind heart.
Thank you for watching and commenting
Rob woodworkers are often visual learners. You do a nice job of teaching in all your videos, so it surprised me when I noticed a procedure rather unsafe in this shooting board video. Early in my woodworking days I was hurt on a table saw because one of my mentors taught me incorrectly. What was no big thing for him was a dangerous way to do something. Luckily I wasn’t hurt badly and have never been again since with a power tool. This lesson taught me that how a procedure is demonstration matters. Using a SawStop saw is a safer table saw but by no means foolproof as you can still get kick back. At 5:50 in the video you are checking the MDF/plywoods cupping on the side of the table saw but you did not turn the saw off. I’m sure you were fine however a beginner woodworker might not understand how easy it is for kick back to happen. All it would take is one wrong move and the board could go flying across the room and possibly into someone. You’re a carful teacher so this is an out of character oversight for you and you might want to add a warning to turn off the saw when not cutting even if it is a saw stop. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks Rob. Nice and complete. I really appreciate all the little (but critical) details on this version.
Glad it was helpful
The glue spreading reminded me that I have to do body work on my truck, great refresher vid, updated tricks are always appreciated.
Anything I can do to help with your auto body work I am happy to lend you a glue spreading reminder
Thanks Rob, this is really helpful for me in setting up my hand-tools-only workshop 🙂
Glad I can help
the care and standards you adhere too are quite mesmerising to watch.. also good to know you are human getting that little split on the edge with the last edge to smooth off! I have just started trying to get better with hand tools... cleaned up some old planes etc and been watching your planing technique videos.. will look to make a shooting board now :)
I have a bunch of guitar tops and backs to joint soon. I need a new shooting board. I will definitely use this for inspiration.
Sounds great. Let me know how it hoes
Jacob, yes, I made mine from Rob's design on his previous video, and I use it for tops, backs, edges, fingerboard edges, acoustic bridge blanks, tons of things. LOVE it!
I just built another one of these from your old design last weekend, and I'm currently working up one of your 90 degree miter ones as well. When making small boxes, there is nothing like one of these to kiss up to your line. Thanks for another great video Rob
I totally agree
I use TB3 and TB2 a fair bit. In my opinion TB3 definitely has more open time and is a little less viscous making it a little easier for larger surface glue ups and laminating. It’s my go-to for laminating oak vs epoxy as the latter has issues when bonding to oak.
I agree with you
Rob, I love your videos and you've inspired me to use my hand tools more and more. On tite Bond III, I have heard sever4al times you should not use that glue on Walnut. I actually still do use it on walnut and never have had a problem, but it is something to think about.
Superb, clearly described and demonstrated video detailing how to make a shooting board. All aspects of the construction of this essential piece of kit are shown (utilising close up camera work) and the key reasons behind them explained. Team Cosman never fails to provide wonderful wood and educational content - so grateful to you all for continuing to provide such material!! It’s ALWAYS a pleasure to watch learn and be inspired by!!!
Glad it was helpful
Shooting boards are as important as anything in the shop! Love mine, great update
Thanks
Maybe I could make stretchers under to prevent the ''cup'' to happen. Or just plane it and look at it... Thanks for the tips. Just the tips babe.
I like the idea of building spring into the board to add a crown that works against you when in use. I don’t guess I get why Rob is cutting a rabbet in his top laminate. Is it to just get you to the finish line faster regarding breaking in and any tuning?
My shooting boards that I built in another fashion are both still in good shape and it will hopefully be a few years before either will need to be rebuilt, but I’m certainly going to take his tips into consideration when building my next flat shooting board.
The rabbet runs against the sole of the plane in the space between the end of the throat and the side of the plane. That keeps the blade from digging into your shooting board. You could plane this rabbet in but thats tough work. Much easier with the table saw
Excellent video. I need to make a mini shooting board for the block plane, I have some East Indian Rosewood I'll use for the fence, similar high hardness as the Osage Orange. Love yer videos... God Bless!
Great plan, send me a pic when you get it done
Well done, everything is in real time, not fake beautiful work, thank you
Its what we do. Thanks for watching
Very good Rob. Nice to see an updated version.
Rob, you have improved my woodworking, I owe I debt I cannot repay
You honor me by just watching my videos
Leave it to a Canadian to wrap a hammer handle (and so many other tools) with hockey tape. Thanks for the great instruction, Rob.
Question: So when you cut the chamfer to prevent edge grain blow-out on both ends, how much do you compensate for the final true length? ie: 12” x 12” square box, how much extra length?
Thanks,
RonW.
I find his voice relaxing, lol.
good job rob. thanks for sharing
Thank you Rob. I need one of these. Very good instruction
Time to make one
Cool you did the updated video, just curious, when's the hand tools only update going to be coming out for all of us who don't use power tools? ;-)
Well probably wont do a hand tools only version but you can do it with a sharp panel saw and good hand planing work
Great video, thank you for sharing.
Did you make the metal glue spreader? I will be making this shooting board next weekend! Thanks for the information
Your first shooting board video was really good, but this was even better. You had a few new techniques that will be very helpful. Thanks, Rob!
Glad its helpful to you
A Canadian not using Robertson drive screws!?! Rob how dare you lol, yet another educational video, I always pick up something new even from these videos you've done In the past. You have really driven my ambition to be a fine furniture maker, thank you.
Great video. I noticed you used a tapered countersink bit to drill the holes for the fence. Are the screws also tapered, or what is the benefit of using a tapered drill bit? I checked a bunch of #8 wood screws in my shop and none of them are tapered.
Tapered drill bits are the only way to go. The screw will hold much better
Do I need to use tapered screws or does a tapered bit also work better for regular wood screws? Thanks for clarifying.
@@ogwoodworksthe idea would be that you really only want the screw “pulling” on the fence and not the base. If your two pieces of wood are both locked into the screw threads, then they won’t really pull together. So the screw head will anchor one side and the threads will anchor into the fence and compress the two pieces together.
Lovely work. It looks like you put a finish on the MDF, what would you recommend to protect it help the plane slide?
Lacquer
Is there any reason why you decided to use the lamello instead of the festool domino clips 🤔. As always buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
Hey Rob, great content, as always! Is there a way to stay updated on your public appearances at stores or other woodworking-related events? Will you be visiting the GTHA or the Niagara/Buffalo area this year?
The best way to stay up is to subscribe to our newsletter. I do not have anything like an annual schedule. If a woodcraft store calls me and wants me to come teach I generally say yes. So talk to your local Woodcraft store and get them to invite me down
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks Rob, will do!
Nice one Rob. I've made a few full and block plane size following your design / instruction. I used a mid-range hardwood (black bean) on my fence and after maybe 6 months of use the corner closest to the plane started to compress / dent from all the banging / use, so I moved to an even harder wood (jarrah) and had no more problems. I still use the one that compressed - used a skew block plane to true up the face of the fence again. Where you use the 1/2 inch ply on the top I tried using exotic woods (5/16") and none have exploded after years of use. I picked woods with very high stability / low shrinkage rates. It's a real joy for me to pull out a functional and also beautiful hand made tool. I work with small parts a lot so I use my shooting board to plane with a lot as well - I have a few different thicknesses of board to sit on it to bring the material height up when the stock is thinner than the fence. I probably plane on it more than I do on my bench. Great piece of kit.
This is one of my next projects. I've been putting it off, getting everything square is not my strong suit haha
Everything must be square if you make a shooting board
thanks
I want to know more about that vise bolted to the left side of your table saw. 🤔🤔🤔
Its a moxon vise. We have a youtube video on building it onto your table saw check it out
I really need to make one.
Go for it. An easy build that will pay big dividends
Well done Rob.🙂🙂
Thx
That's a quality product and nicely made, but I think you might have missed the part that beginners would struggle with most. How do you adjust the fence if it's out of square after gluing? I've fixed them with a no. 10 plane in the past, but I'm sure you have a better way.
Well if its out of square after gluing you built it wrong, but a video on how to square up a fence is a great idea
I had planned to make one this weekend good timming
I knew this so i made this video for you
@@RobCosmanWoodworking well thanks rob!
Built a shooting board and ended up with the centre of the plywood having a hump in it down the length of the board. Not sure if the plywood was to blame or the way I clamped it. Means the wood doesn’t sit square to the plane
I would lean to a clamping issue
I don’t have Osage, but I do have leftover 2x2 IPE that should work for my fence. Saved it for years and I finally have a use for it.
Hard as a rock!
Will ½in mdf do ok?
I do not recommend it. I think is too light and more likely not to hold its shape.
You can glue two pieces of 1/2inch for a thicker board. Just make sure the glueup didn't distort the shape after drying.
I love these videos but would someone please explain why the fence is placed where it is. Instead of offsetting it and requiring a chamfer on the end, why not place the fence so that it acts as a backer to the piece being shot. I don’t understand the need for the extra step. 🤔
Because what do you do when you take a heavy cut, and then go back to a thin cut? You’ve lost the “zero clearance” so to speak.
That makes sense Rob, thank you! 👍
I just finished one of these a couple of days ago based on your earlier video, and intend to also build an 18 inch version. Not having clamps with deep enough throats for some of the glue up, I used stacks of bricks as a quick and dirty measure.
For the next iteration I want to use proper clamps but am having trouble finding sturdy ones with enough reach into the throats. Do you have a suggestion where I might be able to purchase a few of those?
Thanks.
Excellent !
Many thanks!
Still working on my first bench, but this will be priority number two, thank you for your excellent channel Rob. Curious why Americans and some Canadians are so insistent on sticking with imperial over user friendly metric? Very odd to me…
We’re very odd! :)
Why so many holes drilled in your hand plane?
For the extra grip clearly shown attached to the plane throughout the rest of the video.
Jake used my plane as the test bed for the grip
I'm not sold on the idea of having a hump in the middle of my shooting board. Think
about it, wouldn't be better to have a dip or cup so that the side of the plane is making
contact at 2 points (toe & heel) and not on a single point in the middle which would be
more tippy.
No, you’re missing the point. The plane is top heavy, but only in the middle where the frog, blade, chipbreaker, and lever cap live. And if it is only touching at the heel and toe, that top-heaviness will tip outward.
Even before you said it I was thinking the glue amount shows you built one or two of these before. {8^)
Yup
Titebond III has one downside: Its slightly more expensive
You say "sold in Metric" so would love to just have a "12 inch (30 cm)" style comment as a LOT of us don't live in the US and ie don't use Imperial.
And I could go on for hours about Osage orange, named after Osage Indians. Burns as hot as coal and last 100 yrs as a fence post in the dirt. I've literally pulled wood from under dirt and turned on the lathe!!! I could keep going...
I never heard that. Interesting
@RobCosmanWoodworking natives would travel for hundreds of miles to trade for the wood and fruits full of seeds. It was recorded in late 1600s that a bow made of Osage was worth a horse AND a blanket OR a comely young squaw... the blanket would've been s high ticket item itself in the time and the Osage Indians had a monopoly
I have to admit mate, that was a lot of effort for a shooting board. I'll just buy one of yours instead.
Osage orange???? Are you sure? It looks more like bubinga or something like that
Nope thats all Osage Orange. Its sll we use for our shooting board fences
No tablesaw 😢
You can just use panel saws and good hand planing technique to do what I did with my table saw
K čemu mi Robe takový přípravek je, když v Evropě nejsou hoblíky Lie Nielsen ani Veritas dostupné už několik let po sobě... 🤷
I honestly don't understand why this guy is one of the more prominent woodworkers on TH-cam. Aside from the obvious, "oh I don't have a table saw to make my shooting board (which you wouldn't need if you have a table saw and know how to set it up), I guess I'll just buy one from his store", and being incredulous to the fact that people complained he used a shooting board to make a shooting board and now he has to make another video, he should be de-platformed for being too lazy to turn his table saw off when not making a cut, and leaving it on his video for beginners to see and think that is standard practice. Shameful. Easiest unsubscribe ever.
Clown. See ya.