Mt Hood: Climbing Leuthold Couloir (4K)

On February 10th, we set out from Timberline Lodge, heading up to camp at Illumination Saddle. We enjoyed a typical epic sunset above the clouds. Scott Joined us in the night and we set out the next morning down the very steep and icy back side of the saddle onto the Reid Glacier. Crossing some deep snow we made it to the base of the couloir. Conditions were overall very nice. A bit cold in the morning hours in the shade, but we were prepared for this. After passing through the Hour Glass (Crux of the route) we opted to head up and to the left, gaining the end of Yocum ridge for a little extra spice.
We topped out and heading back down to camp just in time for a sunset ski back to the car.
Overall this route was relatively easy compared to some, but a great alternative to the south side for people looking for intermediate routes with epic views!

[@hankmishima4798]

Thanks for sharing! Great shooting and edit.

[@MountainMontage]

Thanks!

[@TheJonathanWatkins]

Amazing work, beautiful day out there!!

[@chitonyourchu]

Thanks for posting. Helping me get stoked for climbing season!

[@MountainMontage]

Absolutely!

[@mikemcintosh9933]

Excellent!

[@MountainMontage]

Thank you

[@m1k119]

Incredible views Andrew . Nice work

[@MountainMontage]

Many thanks!

[@Sonlight1964]

always a pleasure to climb with you two. so much fun together. great memories!! and to think your first summit of Hood was only a few years ago. well done!

[@MountainMontage]

Indeed! Thank you for all your mentorship and inspiration! Cheers to many more summits together!

[@Sonlight1964]

@@MountainMontage Cathedral Ridge coming up! North Gullies when the conditions are right

[@electronicpanda7680]

Amazing! I can’t wait to climb, your video taught me a lot. Much appreciated! ❤

[@MountainMontage]

Awesome! I'm glad it was helpful. Enjoy the climb!

[@JosephTMyers]

well done on 16 unique Hood lines! I still am hoping to do the Black Spider (Fric-Amos) sometime, conditions permitting. Basically the whole climb's aesthetics depend on "in" ice conditions.

[@MountainMontage]

Thank you, I too plan to climb on the Black Spider someday! But yes it is very conditions permitting from what I hear. I've got Yocum Ridge in my sights also, hopefully in the next year or two!!

[@aaronswank]

Take me to the top sometime!!

[@MountainMontage]

Haha, get in line! But seriously, climbing is such a joy (for me at least) find a way to make it happen!!

[@farbeyonddriven8173]

You're criminally under-subbed!!
East Coaster here but Volcanos are in my future and I had a few questions if you don't mind.
1. I've done some ice climbing but nothing similar to this type of travel. I've never lashed my tools to my person. I see Scott does, your gal doesn't, thoughts and what are they lashed to and how?
2. Are your crampons an ice climbing style or more glacier travel type?
3. Not counting a rope if you had one and anything ski related, what was your pack weight?
4. Also and excuse me 'cause I only down hill ski, but were you skinning up or using ski crampons?
Thanks....new sub

[@MountainMontage]

Thanks! Yes I am working on growing the channel, but it seems like a slow process. Spread the videos though!
1. Leashing tools is kinda personal preference, some people prefer it, as I can reduce the risk of losing a tool in unforgiving terrain. Others argue that it's more dangerous in a fall situation as it's best to drop one tool and use just one for self arrest. But then your 2nd tool still connected could swing around and stab you. Personally, I prefer the increased mobility of no leashes, and I think most hardcore ice climbers often don't. I'm sure there are lots of other opinions out there on this topic!
2. The Crampons I used here have vertical front points, which are much better for ice climbing. But also work for the glacier. Ive ice climbed plenty in standard glacier crampons also, but the vertical front points are much nicer on the steep ice.
3. With everything (we did have rope but opted not to use it) pack weight was 45-50 lbs. With just basics I'm sure you could cut that down 10 lbs or so, but it was a very cold night so we had a lot of extra warm bedding, etc.
4. We use Apline Touring skis, with climbing skins. They are a different binding and boot set up from normal down hill skiing.
Thanks for checking us out!!

[@andrewokerlund5689]

what’s your favorite route on hood?

[@MountainMontage]

Good question, I have several favorites so it's hard to pick, but my top 4 would be: Cathedral Ridge, Reid Headwall Left variation, Steel cliffs South face gullies, and Boy Scout Chute.