I've watched a lot of plane restoration vids, and have restored many in my extensive collection. This has been the most concise method I have seen. I picked up a few valuable points here! Thanks. Yes, the type 11 & 12 were the best with the V iron logo the prettiest.
I like the way you present - lots of good info delivered in a clean, uncluttered manner through voice or over print. Thank you for sharing and taking the time to make videos!
There was so much great information in this video, it began to feel like a lecture. I was already getting ready for the quiz next period. The type 11's are my favorite as well.
Lol “Gunna”, that’s a great play on words! Indeed they are carding wheels. I didn’t know that! Apparently used in the gun smith industry! They are great! And I highly recommend. Thanks for researching!
Excellent restoration video, Dave! Of the many I’ve watched, I truly believe yours is at the top, especially b/c of the very helpful detail and tips you offer! This will be my go-to vid from now on. Thanks very much!
Excellent video again. Love the close shots to see everything. Enjoyed the type showcase. I have not seen too many videos where you get to see differences shown directly next to each other. For an alternative scraper I have a Noga SC-8000 Adjustable Scraper Handle Plus 1 T-80 Blade. It has a triangle style deburring blade with it but there are others. Triangular works well for our proposes. I am curious what the markings on your brass tool are but it’s probably unattainable now. There are aluminum versions very similar to it listed as “Adjustable hand scraping and deburring tool” if anyone is on the hunt. You can also get scraper blades for pin vises.
@@DaveCorinth haha worth it to hear a company named Trojan from a town called Troy. Smart and fun. Thank you for being so generous with videos and comments.
Very nice restoration, Dave. I have exactly the same one type 11 corrugated with all the original parts, I did a lot of the work, but i haven't finished it yet. Type 11 is one of my favourites. , I have quite a few great videos, Dave, as always .
I've always taken the iron(s) and just used a super fine stone to clean up. The thing I've learned as to what's the best plane, it's the one that you use the most and feels just right in your hands. Which is why I prefer the Japanese style hand planes.
What an awesome tune up! And I entirely agree that you can feel and hear the difference in a well tuned plane and one that just has had a few improvements done. I was wondering why you chose to use the Dave Charlesworth rule trick when you had already lapped the back beyond that point? Might just be me, but I thought it was redundant as it won't take much to rid the burr anyway when you've properly lapped it. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing your awesome work!
I used to do it only on planes that had issues on the back, however lately I’ve been doing it on almost all of them ( minus smoothers), and really like the results. It only takes a few seconds and it seems to really make the edge perfect.
Can you put a link for the wire wheel? I"m having trouble finding the one you're using. I have a pretty fine stainless wire wheel I use sometimes, and a pure brass wheel that's pretty soft, but the brass one can sometimes leave brass on the tool.
I bought a box of these at an auction a few years ago. I don’t know that Osborn still makes them, but they do pop up once in a while on eBay. I will find out and post.
The tote used on type 11’s were also used on the late type 9’s all the through the type 16. There are very minor differences but they will all fit. I don’t know if any online resource that has the exact dimensions of those totes, the Lee Valley tote template is kind of a one size fits all. I’d you have a type 10 through 16 as a reference it will work.
I believe the type 11’s are the best of the lot and can say that I am fortunate to own a couple of them they have a special feel to them that others planes are lacking especially my 41/2 love that plane by the way where can I find that Osborn 604K wire wheel
I bought a box of those a while back at an auction. I know that Osborn is still in business, and they make high quality wire wheels. Look for one made for brass or silver!
It’s a black oxide fine. It leaves a pretty smooth finish. I don’t know the grit off the top of my head but next time I have change out the sand I’ll check and post the grit. Thanks for watching!
It depends on the plane, true japanning takes more time. For just a standard plane that’s intended to be a user I’ll use the Dupli-Color, for something more collectible I’ll use true japanning. The Millers Falls block plane is coming up soon. It will get an enamel finish as that’s what Millers Falls used originally.
No, the Stanley No 1 & 2, never had patent dates. The type studies are based off of no 4 sized planes, all other sizes have slight variations. I believe the no 1 never changed with the exception of the tote shape on the later ones, and the lever cap having “Stanley” cast into them and of course the irons! The no 2’s can be dated based off patents on the lateral, lever cap and the irons. Later ones have tall knobs, and the last type is commonly mistaken for a no 3. Hope that helps!
Gun blue puts a thin layer of rust on the part that protects it from oils and getting more rust. It basically turn rust blue/black. Stanley, Millers Falls, Sargent, they all used it on their planes. Disston blued the backs of their steel back saws.
Actually you made some mistakes. The rods for handles and totes, front hood down screw and frog hold down screws are 10-20. The only screw 12 is the frog adjustment tab screw which is a 12-24. Also the tab has one side with rounded edges and one side sorta sharp and flat. Rounded side out. Rods should be installed before handles and tote. If the nut bottoms out the handle, or tote, is not seated. For painting you should warm up the cast iron quite well before painting. Each coat should look shiny and wet. I go about twenty minutes between coats as I wait for the paint to flash off. I prefer rustoleum gloss black enamel myself but I bake it in oven for an hour or two after I finish painting. I have never understood peoples fascination with removing finish from top of sides. They didn’t come that way. The finish didn’t last long true but it was there. Why do I say this? Simple the only surfaces not covered with finish (japaning etc) where machined surfaces. Why would they bother on a mass produced plane? Note some side tops were machined surfaces, most were just plain old cast. I also once cut my finger quite well on the sharp surface of brass adjustment knob. I chuck these up ina. Lathe to polish them and use a file to remove the sharp edge from years of use. Note I use a wood dowel to turn them shove in one side and taper live center in tailstock on other side. Just my thoughts on this.
I can assure you they are 12/20 and on a Stanley type 11 plane the top rails were ground at the factory. Stanley ground the tops of all rails on their bench planes except the 40 and the 40 1/2. But I will always take the criticism and if I make a mistake please point it out.
@@DaveCorinth the rods and screws measure 0.187 which is 3/16 or ten. Just micrometer tested and checked my one close to nos untouched five body the top of sides are not machined in any way and are completely covered in japaning, so no. It was used maybe once or twice when someone dropped it and put a crack on the side, then left in cupboard at collage for decades before I got it. Heck the sides still have cosmoline on them or whatever they used to seal them.
Do you know the type of your plane? Sounds like you might have an English version. Indeed the rods to measure .187 however these were never made by threading the rods with a die, they rolled, which makes the threads stick out past the diameter of the rod. The threads will measure about 0.21. That would make them a 12/20. The roses for the tote and knob as well as the small screw on front of the tote and the frog screws are all 12/20. The larger frog screw that threads into the body is 1/4-24, and the small screw that holds the frog adjustment tab onto the frog is 12/24. Try and clean the threads on yours with a 10/20 tap and see how loose it is. When Stanley made these planes they japanned the body and frogs before machining. They then machined or ground all areas including the top rails. Later style Stanley planes do have the top rails painted, but not those made in the USA and covered under the Roger K. Smith type study. I have never seen an older plane with the top rails japanned except on the 40 and 40 1/2. I do warm the bodies and frogs of planes prior to painting them, but I don’t bake. They only time I bake a finish on is if it’s original style Japanning. As for the tote and knob, this plane had been in several videos prior to this one and I had already taken the tote and knob off on numerous occasions so I was well aware of how well it fit prior to reinstalling the set. And I rarely install the rod first unless the rod is bent (sometime Stanley would bend them at the factory) and it has to be in a certain position. Love the comments and I welcome any and all questions. Thank you
@@DaveCorinth the finished rods and screws measure 0.187 not .213. I’ve checked and machined a few so this I really know. The thick walled plane is stamped made in USA and is magenta japaning on tops of side rails. I put it about late forties early fifties type. Note its hardware was all nickel plated except the handle nuts and adjust wheel which were brass. Sadly I had to use the frog on a customers plane as it had the flat cam adjust, not stamped steel. No idea what it had for lever cap as that and its irons were long gone.
@@jacilynns6330 if it was magenta or Cordovan (dark maroon color) that’s a type 21 made from 1968-82. These were enameled, not japanned, Stanley stop using true black Japanning sometime in the 1950’s. They do indeed have the rails painted. They make good users. I think the lever caps had a yellow infill as well. If you have an older one measure the width of the threaded portion on a rod, they will measure somewhere around .210. Those were also the last of the “made in the USA” planes I believe. Good conversation for sure!
I'm gonna try to Buy It Now if I can get the funds tomorrow. O lord, I need this. Getting a set of valid tools together finally, at 38.. I've dreamed of a relic like this. O sweet lord, let me get these funds. 🙏🏼🤞🏼😬
This is the first time I’ve ever put a buy it now on a hand plane. I’ve used buy it now for parts and other items but never a plane. Love the comment by the way!
I've watched a lot of plane restoration vids, and have restored many in my extensive collection. This has been the most concise method I have seen. I picked up a few valuable points here! Thanks.
Yes, the type 11 & 12 were the best with the V iron logo the prettiest.
Thank you very much for watching and of course for the compliment! There is definitely something about the type 11 and 12 planes for sure!
@@DaveCorinth It was all downhill after 12
This was a fantastic video! Packed full of essential information. Now I feel confident that I can restore my planes. Many thanks Dave.
And that why I make theses videos! Glad that I could help! Thanks for watching
I like the way you present - lots of good info delivered in a clean, uncluttered manner through voice or over print. Thank you for sharing and taking the time to make videos!
I appreciate the compliment and Thank You for watching!
There was so much great information in this video, it began to feel like a lecture. I was already getting ready for the quiz next period. The type 11's are my favorite as well.
@@peterbaum1823 oh that’s a great idea a pop quiz after the videos!!!!!!
That wheel looks cool. Did some digging as I couldn't find that particular wheel. It's a carding wheel. Gunna get me one of those.
Lol “Gunna”, that’s a great play on words! Indeed they are carding wheels. I didn’t know that! Apparently used in the gun smith industry! They are great! And I highly recommend. Thanks for researching!
Beautiful restoration Dave.
Excellent restoration video, Dave! Of the many I’ve watched, I truly believe yours is at the top, especially b/c of the very helpful detail and tips you offer! This will be my go-to vid from now on. Thanks very much!
@@professor62 Feel free to reach out to me on Facebook, Dave Corinth on there as well. Thank you for watching.
Another wonderful video, Dave ❤
Great geek-out on Stanley planes 👍
I geek out on these thing all the time. More to come as well. Thanks for watching.
Un video con informacion muy precisa y excelente... gracias.
Great video, both in technique and the history lesson.
Another master class. Thank you! Just great content. So much information.
Thank you for watching Bob I greatly appreciate it.
Excellent video again. Love the close shots to see everything. Enjoyed the type showcase. I have not seen too many videos where you get to see differences shown directly next to each other.
For an alternative scraper I have a Noga SC-8000 Adjustable Scraper Handle Plus 1 T-80 Blade. It has a triangle style deburring blade with it but there are others. Triangular works well for our proposes.
I am curious what the markings on your brass tool are but it’s probably unattainable now. There are aluminum versions very similar to it listed as “Adjustable hand scraping and deburring tool” if anyone is on the hunt. You can also get scraper blades for pin vises.
It says “ Trojan Retouching Machine Troy Ohio” I’ve had it for years and use it all the time.
@@DaveCorinth haha worth it to hear a company named Trojan from a town called Troy. Smart and fun. Thank you for being so generous with videos and comments.
Very nice restoration, Dave. I have exactly the same one type 11 corrugated with all the original parts, I did a lot of the work, but i haven't finished it yet. Type 11 is one of my favourites. , I have quite a few great videos, Dave, as always .
Thank you very much! Good to hear from you again!
Excellent video! Just ordered the nuts from Kgish too. Thank you for your dedication!
You will like those removal nuts, Kurt is a great guy and he has a passion for these old planes too.
I've always taken the iron(s) and just used a super fine stone to clean up. The thing I've learned as to what's the best plane, it's the one that you use the most and feels just right in your hands. Which is why I prefer the Japanese style hand planes.
I agree 100%…..well said!
Great work as always!
Appreciate that
What an awesome tune up! And I entirely agree that you can feel and hear the difference in a well tuned plane and one that just has had a few improvements done. I was wondering why you chose to use the Dave Charlesworth rule trick when you had already lapped the back beyond that point? Might just be me, but I thought it was redundant as it won't take much to rid the burr anyway when you've properly lapped it. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing your awesome work!
I used to do it only on planes that had issues on the back, however lately I’ve been doing it on almost all of them ( minus smoothers), and really like the results. It only takes a few seconds and it seems to really make the edge perfect.
Can you put a link for the wire wheel? I"m having trouble finding the one you're using. I have a pretty fine stainless wire wheel I use sometimes, and a pure brass wheel that's pretty soft, but the brass one can sometimes leave brass on the tool.
I bought a box of these at an auction a few years ago. I don’t know that Osborn still makes them, but they do pop up once in a while on eBay. I will find out and post.
Great video. How do you distinguish shape of a type 11 tote vs other? Is there an online resource with dimensions you can refer me to?
The tote used on type 11’s were also used on the late type 9’s all the through the type 16. There are very minor differences but they will all fit. I don’t know if any online resource that has the exact dimensions of those totes, the Lee Valley tote template is kind of a one size fits all. I’d you have a type 10 through 16 as a reference it will work.
I believe the type 11’s are the best of the lot and can say that I am fortunate to own a couple of them they have a special feel to them that others planes are lacking especially my 41/2 love that plane by the way where can I find that Osborn 604K wire wheel
I bought a box of those a while back at an auction. I know that Osborn is still in business, and they make high quality wire wheels. Look for one made for brass or silver!
Question: What type of media do you use when blasting?
It’s a black oxide fine. It leaves a pretty smooth finish. I don’t know the grit off the top of my head but next time I have change out the sand I’ll check and post the grit. Thanks for watching!
is there a reason that you use the paint over actual japanning?... looking forward to your restore of that Millers Falls...
It depends on the plane, true japanning takes more time. For just a standard plane that’s intended to be a user I’ll use the Dupli-Color, for something more collectible I’ll use true japanning. The Millers Falls block plane is coming up soon. It will get an enamel finish as that’s what Millers Falls used originally.
Hi Dave, does the Stanley no. 2 type 11 have the 3 patent dates?
No, the Stanley No 1 & 2, never had patent dates. The type studies are based off of no 4 sized planes, all other sizes have slight variations. I believe the no 1 never changed with the exception of the tote shape on the later ones, and the lever cap having “Stanley” cast into them and of course the irons! The no 2’s can be dated based off patents on the lateral, lever cap and the irons. Later ones have tall knobs, and the last type is commonly mistaken for a no 3. Hope that helps!
Yes, Very helpful, thankyou!
Dave what paint do you use when refinishing?
When using paint I use Dupli-Color ford Engine Paint Semi-Gloss DE-1365.
What does gun blue do for metal?
Gun blue puts a thin layer of rust on the part that protects it from oils and getting more rust. It basically turn rust blue/black. Stanley, Millers Falls, Sargent, they all used it on their planes. Disston blued the backs of their steel back saws.
What is the grit of belt sander used to grind iron
I use 120 grit, and I don’t let it get so hot that I can’t touch it.
@@DaveCorinth thanks
So…… when people refer to you and your kin collectively do they call you the Corinthians? 😜 Great video!
That’s a good one….Lol
Rib…..??? If it’s for the frog wouldn’t it be the ribb-IT??? 🐸 🐸
That’s a good one too….Rib-it!
Simple
Actually you made some mistakes. The rods for handles and totes, front hood down screw and frog hold down screws are 10-20. The only screw 12 is the frog adjustment tab screw which is a 12-24. Also the tab has one side with rounded edges and one side sorta sharp and flat. Rounded side out. Rods should be installed before handles and tote. If the nut bottoms out the handle, or tote, is not seated.
For painting you should warm up the cast iron quite well before painting. Each coat should look shiny and wet. I go about twenty minutes between coats as I wait for the paint to flash off. I prefer rustoleum gloss black enamel myself but I bake it in oven for an hour or two after I finish painting.
I have never understood peoples fascination with removing finish from top of sides. They didn’t come that way. The finish didn’t last long true but it was there. Why do I say this? Simple the only surfaces not covered with finish (japaning etc) where machined surfaces. Why would they bother on a mass produced plane?
Note some side tops were machined surfaces, most were just plain old cast. I also once cut my finger quite well on the sharp surface of brass adjustment knob. I chuck these up ina. Lathe to polish them and use a file to remove the sharp edge from years of use. Note I use a wood dowel to turn them shove in one side and taper live center in tailstock on other side.
Just my thoughts on this.
I can assure you they are 12/20 and on a Stanley type 11 plane the top rails were ground at the factory. Stanley ground the tops of all rails on their bench planes except the 40 and the 40 1/2. But I will always take the criticism and if I make a mistake please point it out.
@@DaveCorinth the rods and screws measure 0.187 which is 3/16 or ten. Just micrometer tested and checked my one close to nos untouched five body the top of sides are not machined in any way and are completely covered in japaning, so no. It was used maybe once or twice when someone dropped it and put a crack on the side, then left in cupboard at collage for decades before I got it. Heck the sides still have cosmoline on them or whatever they used to seal them.
Do you know the type of your plane? Sounds like you might have an English version. Indeed the rods to measure .187 however these were never made by threading the rods with a die, they rolled, which makes the threads stick out past the diameter of the rod. The threads will measure about 0.21. That would make them a 12/20. The roses for the tote and knob as well as the small screw on front of the tote and the frog screws are all 12/20. The larger frog screw that threads into the body is 1/4-24, and the small screw that holds the frog adjustment tab onto the frog is 12/24. Try and clean the threads on yours with a 10/20 tap and see how loose it is. When Stanley made these planes they japanned the body and frogs before machining. They then machined or ground all areas including the top rails. Later style Stanley planes do have the top rails painted, but not those made in the USA and covered under the Roger K. Smith type study. I have never seen an older plane with the top rails japanned except on the 40 and 40 1/2. I do warm the bodies and frogs of planes prior to painting them, but I don’t bake. They only time I bake a finish on is if it’s original style Japanning. As for the tote and knob, this plane had been in several videos prior to this one and I had already taken the tote and knob off on numerous occasions so I was well aware of how well it fit prior to reinstalling the set. And I rarely install the rod first unless the rod is bent (sometime Stanley would bend them at the factory) and it has to be in a certain position. Love the comments and I welcome any and all questions. Thank you
@@DaveCorinth the finished rods and screws measure 0.187 not .213. I’ve checked and machined a few so this I really know. The thick walled plane is stamped made in USA and is magenta japaning on tops of side rails. I put it about late forties early fifties type. Note its hardware was all nickel plated except the handle nuts and adjust wheel which were brass. Sadly I had to use the frog on a customers plane as it had the flat cam adjust, not stamped steel. No idea what it had for lever cap as that and its irons were long gone.
@@jacilynns6330 if it was magenta or Cordovan (dark maroon color) that’s a type 21 made from 1968-82. These were enameled, not japanned, Stanley stop using true black Japanning sometime in the 1950’s. They do indeed have the rails painted. They make good users. I think the lever caps had a yellow infill as well. If you have an older one measure the width of the threaded portion on a rod, they will measure somewhere around .210. Those were also the last of the “made in the USA” planes I believe. Good conversation for sure!
I'm gonna try to Buy It Now if I can get the funds tomorrow.
O lord, I need this.
Getting a set of valid tools together finally, at 38.. I've dreamed of a relic like this.
O sweet lord, let me get these funds. 🙏🏼🤞🏼😬
This is the first time I’ve ever put a buy it now on a hand plane. I’ve used buy it now for parts and other items but never a plane. Love the comment by the way!
@@DaveCorinth Well, you put it there for me! Thanks! 🤣
🤞🏼🤞🏼